Vias em South Africa para uma graduação selecionada

Start by aiding (A1) up on three well camouflaged studs (bolt without hanger) to reach a twin crack system. From here free climb up. Old bolts!

1. 21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.

2. 17 Follow the crack straight to the top.

"Strange route but worth it for the amazing headwall crack above!" Climb the tree to a bolt, get on the wall and climb up to a crack, then diagonally left using edges to a bolt. Aid (A0) through the overhanging crack using 2 bolts and continue climbing the crack when you can place the first piece of gear.

Gear: Slings, small to medium cams, rack of nuts and extra mid-range nuts. Double ropes help reduce rope drag.

From grade 8 fully using the block behind you, to 18 if you don't use it at all - or anything in between depnding on the extent.

The route lies to the right of the amphitheatre on the Central Turret. It follows a prominent rib that merges into the face halfway up and thereafter it ascends the face above. The first pitch commences on the left of the rib. Scramble up 6o feet to the bottom of two recesses.

1. 80 feet 'F inf.': Ascend the left-hand recess and pass through the bush to a broad ledge.

2. 85 feet 'F': A short distance to the left ascend a large block. Traverse to the left along the top of the block and climb up to a stance (piton).

3. 60 feet 'F: Ascend the recess by continuing past a possible line of traverse to the right until a good handrail is reached. Traverse to the right and continue up to a corner and large block.

4. and pitch 5 - 240 feet 'E': Walk round to the Crest of the rib and climbs straight up to a broad ledge below some overhangs.

5. Same as pitch 4.

6. 100 feet 'E inf.': Climbs to a stance visible on the right-hand skyline sonic 60 feet above the ledge (bush). An attempt was made to climb directly above the stance, but was abandoned owing to a dangerously loose block. Presumably this was the route followed by Mamacos and Schaff.

7. 60 feet 'A2': Two recesses will be noticed above. Climb up a few feet and traverse to the base of the left-hand one. Ascend the recess (s pitons) and overcome the bulge (2 pitons left in place) to reach an étrier stance next to another loose block.

8. 120 feet 'F sup.': This pitch is extremely exposed. Traverse to the right for 25 feet into the recess. Climb up the recess to the handrail and then traverse to the right, past the abseil cord, to a small stance. The strata and grips are all sloping the wrong way.

9. 40 feet 'F sup.': A thin, overhanging slit is visible on the skyline above and to the right. Climb up through this slit to a hidden stance.

10. 120 feet of scrambling upwards to the right takes one to a broad ledge. Walk left for about 300 feet to an obvious break.

11. 50 feet 'E': Climb up the recess and exit to the right to a stance below a bush.

12. 120 feet 'F: Continue past the bush and then move left into a gully on rounded grips.

Time for ascent: 8 hours.

The climb takes the prominent chimney situated just upstream of the descent gully with the water pipe. Follow this pipe up the ramp until next to a large cave. [Upstream of Pipe Ramp]

1. 20m 9 Climb up to the right of the cave onto a ledge. Ascend crack to next ledge and walk into back of chimney. Up chimney to the roof and move out onto the top of a huge detached block.

2. 18m 9 Move right into groove and climb this past a rusty peg to the summit.

Variation:

2 18m 13 Move up and left onto steep exposed slab and continue up to a large flat block. Step right and finish up the arête. (21 Jul 1985 L. Gardiner and T.P. Willmot)

At the left hand side of the smooth rock wall on which 'Lifebuoy', 'Shady Overhang' and 'Bat's Overhang' are situated. The route follows an obvious line immediately to the left of the smooth rock wall.

An easier start is up the deeper recess about 5m left of the smooth face.

A more difficult first pitch 13 is up the shallow recess about 1,5m left of the smooth face. From the belay practice ledge (large block here) continue on up right-angled recess.

Climb the slab.

Climb the slab.

Sit start and climb up juggy holds

Climb the left crack.

Sit-start and climb up diagonal crimp features.

Climb the recess in the corner. Start on good holds and continue up straight.

Sit-start with jug and climb up.

Climb the juggy crack.

Climb the easy right arete.

The easiest way up or down.

Climb the arete.

Easy dihedral.

Climb the easy wall.

Climb the easy wall.

Start with left hand sloper and right hand crimp and climb up left.

Climb the crack.

Climb the juggy arête. Note: Also the downclimb

Start as Just One Second, climb up left to the top

Sit-start on top of a large boulder and climb the juggy face.

Climb the obvious line of jugs.

Climb the easy corner.

Climb the twin crack slab.

Climb the arête.

Climb the slab without the arêtes.

Sit-start and climb up on jugs.

Climb the undercut arête

Sit-start with left hand on gaston and climb straight up.

Climb the many easy lines up the featured face

Sit-start and climb the face.

Climb the arete.

Climb the slab.

Sit-start and climb the face.

sit down, both hands on the lower hole. Top out through vertical crack

Sit start in the groove, top out.

Sit start, climb to top out.

Start in rail, long move climb diagonally right to good hold, then do battle with the bush to top out.

Climb the juggy arete.

There is a grade 3 variation that climb diagonally up left from the same start.

Sit start and climb face to top out.

Start with right hand in good pocket. Climb slab to top out.

Sit start, climb the prow to top out.

Climb the corner. More technical than you hoped...

Sit start with left-hand in a slot, climb directly up to top out.

Sit start and climb the left-hand seam.

Starting from the huge foothold, climb the slab between the arete and the crack (without using either of those features).

Climb the layback crack to TO.

Climb the big crack, from a sit-start. If you happen to own a full set of 13th century armour, then bring it along for this classic problem.

Sit-start on the lowest jug, CD to TO.

Start with hands on large block under boulder to top out.

Start with hands on jug block under boulder. Traverse right to face left of arete, top out.

Climb directly up, past overlap about 2m left of arete.

Climb right arete.

Start with both hands on large jug between 'cheeks'. climb directly up top out. Using a fist jam on this problem may be tempting, but consider your reputation...

Climb the obvious layback crack, TO.

Sit start and climb the prow.

Sit start with BH in the big layback, climb the crack and TO

Sit start with BH in the jug rail, traverse R around the corner until you can stand on the rock

Stand start on a jug and top-out direct.

Sit start on the arête and traverse up along the juggy lip.

Sit start, climb the juggy crack to top out.

Climb the arete to top out.

Sit start, climb directly up on square-cut edges.

Some nonsense eliminate.

Climb the arete.

Easy Arete. Hidden holds make this easier than it seems.

Climb the arete to top out.

Climb up and onto a ledge and up again

Climb all over this face.

SS on good holds and climb the steep face

Stand start, climb the slab, TO.

Stand start, climb the pinnacle, TO.

Standstart. Climb the slab.

Standstart. Climb the slab to TO.

Crouch start and climb the juggy groove.

Hang-start with left hand on a 'two-pocket ledge' in the rail, climb diagonally right to two jugs in a rail and top-out direct without using the shelf on the right for feet. Gets high quick!

Hang-start in the rail, left hand to a jug, right hand up to a rail and top-out direct.

Climb the rippled slab on the right.

Sit-start with both hands on an undercling, right hand to a jug. Base is off for feet once you have the jug.

Sit-start on underclings and risking serious injury move right to a suspect block and up.

Sit-start on a slopey ledge and top-out direct.

Hang-start on a super jug and head up slightly right.

Sit-start on jugs and top-out direct.

Sit-start on a rail, RH to the hole.