Peak Charles, Trad climbing

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Map

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8 Spartacus Slab 9 Central Gully 15 The Farside Wall

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Summary

A large dome crafted from fine orange granite and contains many smaller faces and gullies where most routes are to be found. The rock tends to be compact and most naturally protected have been climbed

Description

Peak Charles is a granite mountain inside Peak Charles National Park in South Western WA. It overlooks dry sandplains and salt lakes in the surrounding countryside. The range of climbs should satisfy most persuasions and ambitions, with longer routes tending to be easier (relatively) and slabbier while sportier routes are usually single pitch.

Approach

Going from Perth, there is the longer easy way and the shorter harder way.

The former leads through Coolgardie. There are two turnoffs south of Norseman at 55km and 70km (i.e. 120km north of Esperance) and these good all-weather gravel roads rejoin as the Lake King road some 25km further on. 5km past this junction is the turnoff left to Peak Charles. It is another 20km to the peak along a sandy but good two wheel drive road. This takes about 10 hours.

Access from the west via Lake Grace and the Lake King road is less certain and better with a 4WD after rain. Bank on taking 8 hours. There is a 24 hour credit card operated petrol station in Lake King.

Where to stay

Camping is allowed at the Base of Peak Charles at the Peak Charles Campground.

Ethic

Current access is sensitive. Please clean all tick marks, stay to established trails and leave no trace.

History

History timeline chart

Far from the long queues, foul language, abseiling, self-esteem workshops and convenient shopping, Peak Charles offers a wide assortment of quality routes and unsullied potential in a unique and beautiful environment. Peak Charles has been there for as long as anyone can remember. Some say God put it there in 5000BC, others suggest it is a trifle older at 2600 million years. The first ascent is unknown. Various hit and run visits since the 1960’s claimed the most obvious lines and since the 1980’s there has been prolonged intense development by Goldfields-based climbers.