Ascents as various tick types as sport by Paul Frothy Thomson

What a journey! I've wanted to do this for years (we've all seen that photo of Greg Child on the roof cut-loose and mantle), especially because I've never heard of anyone ever doing it (even asking many of the local legends). If it ever gets rebolted and a bit of TLC, this would be a genuine multipitch classic!

I linked P1 and P2 into a giant 40m Onsight, then set up an improvised belay just below the roof (using 2 bolts and a #1 cam) so I could reduce the roof and mantle to a manageable boulder problem. These pitches are beautiful, sustained face climbing on great rock. P2 in particular follows a super-cool vague-flake thing with tricky feet, and finishes with an old-school "padding" traverse.

Ticking the roof and mantle took me a bunch of shots (initially cause I was using totally wack beta) and at one point involved such a massive sideways fall that I broke a biner. Once I sorted my beta and rested up, it went down surprisingly easy. I'd probably call the mantle a V3?

Pitch three is quite easy, but has a proper gripping traverse at the grade. I'm glad I didn't fall off.

FFA. More hilarious steep jugging. After you leave the no-hands rest 5 bolts up, its all campus-y action to the end. Enjoy the mushroom jug!

I'd have given this 24, but the last move to the lip seems proper roof bouldering to me? Let me know if it should be downgraded.

FFA. This ended up taking the better part of two full days of effort to tick, but the moment that we had good conditions, it went down smoooooooooothe.

Short and punchy. This is the sort of steep, juggy, campus-y roof climb where you just giggle like a mad chook the whole way.

Seconding Michael and Will! A few hard moves, but great climbing and pleasant rock.

Clean repeat. I haven't been back on this years, which is weird, cause its loads of steep, juggy, thuggy fun!

TRS Clean both pitches. Good to get back on this years after I last did it, and repeat it without too much difficulty even sans chalk. P2 is quite sustained and continuous in its two halves, with very rad moves up an incipient series of seams. I enjoyed this way more today than I did last time.

TRS clean. Surprisingly worthwhile, and not as contrived as I was expecting from some of the comments here (certainly no more contrived than Neon God P2). Challenging thin sequences between good stances. This didn't seem too hard in the style even absent chalk.

TRS Clean 2nd shot. I wanted to give this a lap now that it's no longer a closed project, but absent belayer, TRS will have to do. I've given this little gem classic, because I just can't imagine 12m of climbing getting much better (Great rock, super sustained, complex, technical moves, a very obvious line... even the initial gr21 crack section was engaging with bombproof rock).

Repeat. Great way to access the top of the boulder. Has cleaned up nicely since last time I did it, and is now good insecure fun.

Wow! A sustained, complex face climb with classic moves and rock, to a no-hands rest, before a gnarly V6 boulder finale through the top roof. The upper slab is not to be underestimated!

Though I could do the moves of the boulder, I didn't feel that I could put both parts of the climb together in the 2 days I had to try it, so instead I traversed over to the finale of Velvet Morning immediately before the no-hands rest at the top roof, and finished up that (hence not claiming the full grade). Sure, it's the piker's McDougall, but it makes the climb even more sustained, and just as classic as most of the other routes here IMO! Hopefully next time I'll send it properly.

Full disclosure: I also started with the first 3 bolts pre-clipped.

At the start I use a compression/arete-slapping/heel-hooking sequence rather than the crimp boulder. Was heaps of fun figuring it out.

5 days of effort in total to free both pitches. It takes a lot for exposure to scare me, but this route managed it. Super obscure, but stunning.

Wild, gymnastic traversing, with huge falls into space. I got in the habit of climbing this with my grigri pre-set just behind my knot, and my Jumaar ready for rapid deployment.

On one of my laps on P2 I took a really bad fall, to the point I thought I'd broken my foot. I managed the Send on my final real shot of the trip.

The Aid move on P1 probably goes free if you've a bigger standing reach than me. The one on P2 definitely goes free, but it adds at least 3 more grades to the pitch. Feel free to go for the true FFA!

Clean Repeat. Even after all these years and laps, this doesn't get any easier. Damn its sustained!

Clean repeat. Totally worthwhile technical face climbing. This has cleaned up well over the years.

A lot of this was sopping, so I chose to chalk and equip the draws on the way down. Like everything here, the quality was so high that crappy connies didn't impede the fun. Super classy face climbing.

Seconding Michael. Yep, deserves the rep. Quality rock, classy climbing, very unlikely at the grade. A total joy to climb.

Wild face climbing, with lots of insecure technicality. After the nights rain, this was super spooge, and I climbed like I was walking on eggshells.

Awesome! Lots of unlikely moves that seem like they'll be nails, but come together okay. Even with a sopping wet start, this was just tonnes of fun, and easily as rad as white noise IMO.

Seconding Michael. The rock is a bit crunchy, but the climbing is rad, insecure and gripping. The bottom half is the money, and seemed hard at the grade to me. Be sure to make the most of the arete through the crux.

2nd shot. Flash pumped out at the top bolt on the onsight. Awesome, technical shallow corner climbing in an insecure position. Quite unrelenting in the top half. Totally deserves its rep.

2nd shot. Did not find the key crimps at the crux before I spooged off. Still felt nails at the grade 2nd shot.

Really cool, sustained climbing, with a gnarly fingery crux. The upper bit is great!

Short and punchee!

I probably had more trouble keeping it together through the start boulder, than the upper powerful, morpho section... but I did have Michael's good foot beta.

Some cool, delicate moves... but I thought the crux was absolutely brutal at the grade. Not a bad introduction to the crag, though.

Clean repeat. Whew... thinner than I remembered! This one got me warm.

Clean Repeat. Great way to shake out the bare rock cobwebs. A worthwhile easy multi!

2nd shot. First clean repeat, I think. Mega exposed climbing through huge blocky roofs on immaculate rock. I giggled my way up this on the send (singing Lovecats, for some reason).

Clean repeat. Climbed to get to the upper ledge. Man, this has cleaned up really well from when I last did it.

Clean Repeat. Climbed out to exit the crag at the end of the day. Linked P1 and P2 as usual, and finished up P3 of Sublime and Beautiful (because its better climbing). So good. How is this not more popular?

Clean Repeat. Seconding Gavin to get to the upper ledge.

Clean repeat. Lead solo to get to the upper ledge. The low crux was quite wet, which made the whole experience even more terrifying.

Kinda a retro-flash (thanks to Monty's draws, chalk, and perfect beta), but I didn't do the moves onto the headwall. If it ever stops raining, hopefully I'll improve the style by doing the last move, but regardless, it was a bloody great experience to have again (9 years after joining Monty on the first Ascent!)

Despite being a bit annoying to get to, this is certainly one of the best quality routes at Binary Cave. Crazy steep climbing in a rad position, with really interesting moves the whole way.

Clean Repeat. Seconding Monty to get to the upper tier.

The climbing is upper echelon "Very Good", but the bolting is so unceasingly garbage that I can't give this better than "Good".

P2 was quite sustained, with consistently rad moves up the arete (and a funky gritstone finale) but seemed rather easy at the grade (though I can see it being nails if you're short). Regardless, I was pretty stoked to onsight it in good style.

The crux of the day were the moves to the 2nd bolt on P3, which was a solid V4 for me. I'm wondering if the recent storms have caused the block you start on to slide down the ledge, or whether perhaps there used to be a cairn there? I'm keen to hear others' opinions who repeat this after me.

Most pitches were good. The crazy roof on P5 was super unlikely, and the spine chiller traverse was great!

Regarding my criticism of the bolting:

• Runouts with near constant ledgefall potential.

• Terrible bolt placements -over-recessed (biner snappers) and constantly out of reach even at my height.

• Irrational belay stances -Bolts too high, or far too low, or a hanging belay instead of on a big ledge?

Prospective multipitch new routers should climb this if only to learn what not to do.

2nd shot today (and a bunch of shots over the years). In today's conditions, and with some new beta (completely the opposite of how I've approached this in the past) this felt every bit only a 25 (as opposed to the 26 it's felt previously).

Clean repeat. Seconding Willby to get to the half-way ledge. Has one move that you have to pull on.

Repeat. An excellent warmup.

Repeat. Lappin. Great!

Clean Repeat. Upclimbed Thai Virus, downclimbed La Nina and finished via the A Nice Day for a Disco start -all without every clipping the anchors. A 40m pitch

Clean Repeat. Upclimbed Thai Virus, downclimbed La Nina and finished via the A Nice Day for a Disco start -all without every clipping the anchors. A 40m pitch

Clean Repeat. Upclimbed Thai Virus, downclimbed La Nina and finished via the A Nice Day for a Disco start -all without every clipping the anchors. A 40m pitch

Clean repeat. Awesome to get back on this almost 10 years after I first put it up, and not be dissappointed with the route or my equipping.

Also rather psyched to just punch it out placing draws despite it being obviously untrafficked, cause it's quite hard to read and rather committing. Genuinely good arete climbing, and something quite different to other aretes in this grade range in the Blueys.

Ground-Up Onsight of an (at the time) unclimbed line. Used a #0.5 + #0.75 in the break below the traverse line; #0.2 (Black Totem) after sticking the first hard moves up the detached flake; and a #1 in a horizontal break above the crux.

Made it onto the slab (above the crux) before it was too wet even to manage even mere gr18 slabbing. Piked out from there, rather than continuing on the true line.