Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 30th Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Atlantis | ||||||
24 | ★ Rooky of the Year - with Heath Black | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty easy for the grade, and not as good as it's lefthand neighbour. The punchy moves to the anchor are memorable.
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22 | ★ Greg's Route - with Heath Black | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A hard start, with some interesting, funky climbing higher up. More of a full package than most of the routes here.
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23 | ★ Twenty Something - with Heath Black | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd shot. Didn't find the key hold past the roof on the onsight. Pretty cruisy at the grade (and the best warmup here) when you know where the holds are.
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Sun 24th Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
24 | ★★ Superdyke - with Heath Black | 35m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Was cruising this on 2nd until I slipped off in the spooge AFTER the crux . The rock is average, but the position and climbing are both great, and despite the hassle this is thoroughly worthwhile. Pretty bloody steep for the grade.
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Sat 23rd Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Farside Main Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Brain Drain - with Tom Collins, Ben Jenga, Mitch, Lucas C, Magdalena de la Torre | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. warm-up lapping.
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25 | ★★ Captain Kurko - with Lucas C, Magdalena de la Torre, Ben Jenga, Tom Collins, Mitch | 22m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. warm-up lapping.
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Sun 17th Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
24 25 | ★★ Taxi Driver - with Heath Black, Viona Young, Jenna Brady | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Huzzah, I finally ticked my old nemesis. Interestingly, the move I struggled with on link today was a bunched face move immediately after what I remember being the crux. Weird. Great, but very cruxy around the roof-turn.
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22 | ★★ Thai Virus - with Heath Black | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Clean repeat. I remember the crux of this being very tough when I first ticked it, was a cruise today, even going more direct than Neil does. Much more fun than I remember.
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22 | ★★ La Niña - with Heath Black | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Awesome. A great warmup.
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Sat 16th Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Farside Main Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Brain Drain - with Ben Jenga, Lucas C | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. One of the best at the grade in the mountains. Improbable and inspired.
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25 | ★★ Captain Kurko - with Ben Jenga, Lucas C | 22m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Easy at the grade, but a brilliant warmup. A pleasant pumper with a punchy start.
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Wed 13th Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Mr Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Super Weak - with Will Vidler, Harry Kadi | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat attempt, not clean. Another EOD warm-down attempt. Better linkage than last time, but I struggled a bit with the upper crux in todays wet conditions.
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Sun 10th Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Mr Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Super Weak - with Emil Mandyczewsky, Lucas C, Magdalena de la Torre, Heath Black, Ben Jenga, Mitch Perkins, Jason | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat attempt, not clean. An EOD warm-down. Surprised myself by doing this with only 2 falls, despite remembering very little. Felt strong.
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Sun 3rd Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Reigning Steel - with Stephen Varney | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. EOD warm-down. Up-climbed and down-climbed the entire route clean on lead for added challenge.
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Sun 3rd Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Theory of Negativity Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Theory of Negativity - with Stephen Varney | 22m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Just a bloody great route, probably one of the best at the grade in the Blueys.
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Sat 2nd Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
27 | FA ★★★ Incitatus for POTUS - with Emil Mandyczewsky | 70m, 16 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
FFA. Literally the most effort I've put into any climb in the Blue Mountains. 9 days, in soaring temperatures, rain, wind-blowing-waterfall-onto-route, and some sub-arctic conditions. If it weren't one of the most amazing lines I've ever climbed, and if I didn't have a dedicated belayer (who put up with some big falls and subsequent epic temper-tantrums) throughout all of it I doubt I would've finished it.
Mind-blowingly good technical face climbing on beautiful waterwashed rock, up the only wandering line of holds to breach this part of the wall. The Money pitch is 24 slab into a V6 extended boulder-problem crux into a 25/26 sustained face finale. The grade is open to debate. Up until recently I would've sworn it was 28 (based on the effort it took me, and the fact I only EVER linked through the crux once from the ground, and never managed to repeat that effort), but Will Vidler employed short/light/young/strong beta to do the crux of the crux (in isolation) in a totally different manner, which -though not a link- invites the possibility the crux isn't such a shutdown move. Hence: gr27. |
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Sat 2nd Feb 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower) | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Paint God - with Tom Collins, Heath Black | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. With Tom's running beta-speil, I was pretty psyched to re-ticked this one despite the moistness.
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24 | ★★ Ten No Trumps - with Tom Collins, Heath Black | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Good to smash this one out straight up in damp conditions. A particularly great and unique first half.
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Mon 28th Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
24 | ★★ Fartflusher - with Will Vidler | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wow, quite a "journey" of a route. I'd love to claim the onsight, but I actually pumped out at the 3rd bolt (2m into the climbing) after battling to get a long runner on an over-recessed bolt. Came down to the start, off I went, and Onsight from the 3rd bolt to the top. A kinda "traddy-style", sparsely bolted, wandery adventure route that wouldn't feel out of place as part of a multipitch. Lots of tough sequences between mega-rests, but quite runout. If you don't use double-ropes, you need to back-clean the 2 most rightward bolts, or suffer the worst rope drag in history. The top section is more sustained than I expected, with a funky, gnarly variety of moves up a linked series of cool features.
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23 | ★★ Boisterous - with Will Vidler | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A rather aesthetic intricate slab, though not hard at the grade. Pleasant finger-jugging with a few big moves all the way to the anchor. A great cure to a hangover, right Will Vidler ?
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Sun 27th Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Hornet - with Emil Mandyczewsky | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A 1-sequence crux at the grade, surrounded by oodles of very old-school wandery gr19 slabbing. Lots of technical trickery, but nothing particularly hard. Despite being a bit "un-trafficked", it was actually quite enjoyable. In the 35 degree heat though, the monster pitch felt like a marathon of hard work, and thereby masochistically pleasurable. Totally worthy, if you don't mind a few bits of gear and some old-school runouts.
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Sat 26th Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Main Wall (Ferris Cave) | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Grape Hour - with Tom Collins | 22m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
EOD Training lap repeat attempt. Not clean today, as I struggled to link the start boulder in the epic humid slime. The rest of the route was a titanic spooge-fest battle, but some worthy linkage considering. Really cool.
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Sat 26th Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Adults Only Cave | ||||||
26 M0 26 M0 | ★★★ The Way of All Flesh M0 - with Tom Collins | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot today. On the Send it went surprisingly easily, which is rad considering how hideous I felt on the 1st lap (as a warmup). Even radder to have managed yet another Team Send with Tom Collins . Psyched to have managed the trilogy of steep routes at this grade ( TWoAF, Rolling Thunder, Realised Ultimate Reality ) in successive weeks.
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Sun 20th Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Departures (Upper) | ||||||
23 | ★★ Destined for Grayness - with Emil Mandyczewsky, Stephen Varney | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Felt bloody hard at the end of the day, and I had to crank proper hard to stay on. Short, but damned sweet.
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Sun 20th Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Sunnyside | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Realized Ultimate Reality Linkup - with Emil Mandyczewsky, Mitch Perkins, Ben Jenga, Stephen Varney, Jason | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
3rd shot. Considering how hard this all felt on the first 2 shots, it went down weirdly easily on the 3rd lap. Very steep in the same vein as reality dysfunction, but with a greater variety of moves in the second half, which makes it more of a climbers climb. The pounce to the horn is exciting.
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Sat 19th Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Main Wall (Ferris Cave) | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Lyptus - with Heath Black, Tom Collins, Brent | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat repeat. EOD lap for a laugh. Still quite fun and varied.
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Sun 13th Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau The Pit Sector 'Sunny Side' | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Rolling Thunder - with Heath Black, Jason McCarthy, Ben Jenga, Jenna Brady, Emil Mandyczewsky | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
3rd shot today, 6th lap total. After taking a rather hideous upside-down, leg-behind-the-rope fall on my first lap, I very nearly bailed. But on my final lap of the day I scrapped and thrutched my way to victory. Glad to get this anti-style route done and dusted. Essentially, a series of intimidating steep boulder-problems separate by fairly good rests.
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Fri 4th Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point East Faces Subliminal Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Subliminal - with Rob Medlicott | 92m, 33 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Another repeat, this time with Roberto... A speed-lap on Second to beat the approaching stormfront. Dreamy.
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Wed 2nd Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Railway Cliff | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Gumbo Akimbo - with Heath Black, Mitch Perkins, Ben Jenga, Jason McCarthy, Will Vidler | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
After Jason McCarthy 's mega onsight of this, I was hoping I could flash it... nope: bungled the moves to gain the lip, and it was all over. A very weird start leads to a long pumper on generally good holds. Quite the long and varied adventure. With some reinforcement of the key flake in the roof, this could be almost classic.
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24 25 | ★★★ Traction Thrash - with Heath Black, Mitch Perkins, Ben Jenga, Jason McCarthy, Will Vidler | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
To the 1st anchors only. Quite tough in the crazy heat/humidity, with a consistently blank crux in an old-school slabby slab style.
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Fri 28th Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Atlantis | ||||||
25 | ★★ Herminator - with Heath Black | 25m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat, srconding Neil to escape the crag at the end of the day. We topped the route and walked off
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25 | ★★ Herminator - with Heath Black | 25m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Neil gave me the boulder-problem crux beta and it was mark an execute all the way. Very onsightable with our chalk on it, but might be worth waiting until I rebolt the deathiest death block start in the next few weeks (might even be classiquè then!). Steep face climbing on finger jugs, beautiful water polished rock, and intimidating exposure.
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Fri 28th Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Shore Break | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A 2nd shot re-tick today (I'd ticked it many years ago with some effort), went easier today, but the first half is still bloody desperate bouldering. I like this (except for the ledge before the end ).
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21 | ★ Hang Five | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
No beta flash (draws were up)... kind of a dawdle until the very end. Not great, but its a warmup.
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Fri 28th Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff | ||||||
23 | ★★ Rudolf the Bloody Reindeer - with Heath Black, Stephen Varney | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
My favourite of this wall, mostly cause its a bit more sustained. The new direct start is worthwhile, and the main crux is fun thinness.
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Thu 27th Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Railway Cliff | ||||||
25 | ★★★ I Must Go Down to the Sea Again - with Heath Black | 110m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
P1 only. 2nd shot. With some chalk on it (now), and full committment to the opening boulder, this is very onsightable for mere mortals. The start looks nails, but totally isn't, and is VERY VERY rad! The rest of the route is the old-skool classic its rep would have you believed. The acrobatic juggy steep bit up high is sooooo tasty.
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23 | ★★ Baboon Class - with Heath Black | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bwah, quite sustained and bloody hard for the grade. Techy and tenuous and very long. A weird line, but a worthy one. Not sure about the new bolts near the start
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Wed 26th Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Rock Hudson | ||||||
23 | ★★ Geek Heathen | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not the most inspiring rock, but when its this steep, juggy and thuggy at such a tame grade, who can complain.
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Wed 26th Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff | ||||||
18 | ★★ Johnny's Jalopies - with Heath Black, Stephen Varney | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
An aesthetic and appealing line. Fun.
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18 | ★ Mr Scumbag - with Heath Black, Stephen Varney | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
My other favourite route of the wall. A total freaking sandbag (prolly 20ish at least) but great climbing.
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20 | ★★ Hark! The .. - with Heath Black, Stephen Varney | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A few tricky moves. The rock on this wall is really good for blueys easy routes.
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19 | ★ Anal Leakage - with Heath Black, Stephen Varney | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One hard crimp and lots of easy pleasantness.
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20 | ★★ Mr Christmas Poo - with Heath Black, Stephen Varney | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
An ordinary lower half but getting better up high. A lunchy finale.
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19 | ★ Butt Nuggets - with Heath Black, Stephen Varney | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty good. An easy interesting start with a cool facy section up high.
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Sat 22nd Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander | ||||||
27 | ★★★ The Enforcer - with Ben Jenga, Jason Nguyen, Tom Collins | 36m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Psyched! After linking to the final hard moves as a warm-up (despite struggling hideously with the pocket crux on 3 previous attempts in the past 8 months), the Send went down in a controlled and collected manner. The first half isn't perfect (all that stops it being mega classic), but is enjoyable when you know how to climb it. The upper half is perfect.
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23 | ★★★ Saw-Toothed Snake - with Ben Jenga, Jason Nguyen, Tom Collins | 28m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. This route as a warmup never gets old
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Sat 15th Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sunbath | ||||||
25 | ★★ Atoms in Action - with Glen Thomson | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Consolation prize... I guess? No real trouble with this today, despite having to crank like a mofo for 2 moves. Just like Paddington, I utterly despise everything that defines this climb (read: Razor-blade snatchy crimping). Fortunately, I never have to do it ever again. Its been 6 years since I first tried it!
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Sun 9th Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
26 |
★★ Charlie Don't Surf
- with
Emil Mandyczewsky
1
26
40m
2
24
30m
| 70m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A great short multi. Very sustained on great rock, with some dishearteningly small crimps on the first pitch. Not my finest performance due to too many simultaneous days of climbing. P1 - Fell off on the last move of the upper crux on lead, then the wheels fell off and I couldn't even get through the first crux seconding Emil P2 - 2nd clean (just barely).
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Sat 8th Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander | ||||||
23 | ★★ Multiplex - with Harry Kadi, Tom Collins | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Better than I remember (aside from the poxy ledge down low), though the slab was quite hard today in the full sun. I campused the start boulder for added no-style points.
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Sun 2nd Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
26 |
★★ Charlie Don't Surf
- with
Emil Mandyczewsky
| 70m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | |||
First attempts to free the whole multi. That first pitch is tough... especially when the whole bloody waterfall is blowing on your head all day (due to the high winds). P1 - Fell at both cruxes seconding Emil. P2 - Red Point (I'd been on it on 2nd once before when it wasn't yet fully bolted), with the caveat that I actually pulled a half cubic metre of rock off the ledge as I was topping out and was knocked back down the climb The ledge is nice and clean now.
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Sat 1st Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander | ||||||
28 | ★★ Water Hazard - with Tom Collins, Brent, Harry Kadi, Jason McCarthy, Jenna Brady | 36m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Another long haul. 3rd shot today (after punting the low crux on my 2nd shot), on my 6th day of effort on this route. I don't even know how many laps I had in the end . After linking through the crux on my 3rd day, I thought it'd go down fast, but I fell off AFTER the crux 3 times (from mistakes, or flash pump, or poor strategy), and one day in the middle never made it through the crux all day.
A brilliant route, with an unrelenting final 15m of power-endurance steep face-climbing on beautiful rock, guarded by a very gnarly and relatively low percentage lower crux (which proved to very frustrating as I tended to fall off it 1 in every 3 laps). The climbing surrounding these sections is pleasant, but no harder than gr21. |
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Sat 17th Nov 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Farside Main Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ Hello Rabbit Risotto (Hello Rabbit Risotto (linkup)) - with Drew Henman, Jason, Jason Smith, Ben Jenga, Mitch Perkins | 22m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
3rd shot today. Bungled the end of the crux on my 2nd shot, changed my beta (threw technique out the window and went for strong-man beta instead), and kept it together on the next lap. Super-duper cruxy (which is quite hard on the skin), but great and varied climbing surrounding the crux. Similar, but probably more interesting than Captain Kurko.
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Sun 11th Nov 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
23 ~24 | FA ★★ Monteith Memorial Traverse - with Emil Mandyczewsky | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Freeing the access traverse. Not a "great" pitch, nor everyone's cup of tea, but I found it entertaining (and surprisingly hard). Unfortunately the move immediately off the belay is something of an "arbitrary start" (you can reach further left to a better starting hold using the belay), and the last move stepping down the ledge is a bit "meh". But the actual traversing is very technical and complex.
Stay off the vegetation! (until the last bolt). |
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Wed 7th Nov 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Saw-Toothed Snake | 28m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat? Repeat!
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Sun 4th Nov 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Philosopher's Zone - with Heath Black | 22m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Clean repeat. A quick EOD lap in the sun to completely wear myself out. Almost botched it today through the crux, but just kept it together. Steep!
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Sun 4th Nov 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Bottom Floor | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Sarlacc - Closed Project - with Heath Black | 90m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Seconding Neil on the First Ascent. Almost a Mega Classic (by Blueys standards). Quite tough up a true "featured" line (though the features are small and incipient).
P1 - Second Clean (an unremarkable but inoffensive thin slab); P2 - Second Clean... twice (very similar to the lower half of Wipeout at Porters stylistically, but much more sustained. Brilliant climbing on beautiful rock. P3 - Second Unclean (managed to link the opening boulder to the crux move heading right through the roof, and from the end of the crux move to the top with much power-screaming... But the boulder feels utterly nails in the sun today. 26 without the crux... Unrelenting, technical flake climbing, with terrible feet and very steep). P4 - Second Clean - Grovelly mantle... Ugh. |
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Sun 28th Oct 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Saw-Toothed Snake | 28m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat! Warmup! Clambering!
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Sat 27th Oct 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Azaria's Aurora | ||||||
24 | ★★ Mousie Maze - with Heath Black | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Back logging. 2nd shot. Has a rather hard crux that I could only solve with a wild dyno. The rock is average, but the climbing is genuinely good where it starts to steepen. Very worthwhile.
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Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Spurt Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Dial-A-Lama - with Will Vidler | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat Attempt. Not Clean today. Mostly not too bad sloper-climbing, but one move of the final crimp-crux gave me an epic headache today. Nails at the grade, but quite good climbing for what it is.
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22 | ★ Spurting Mildly - with Will Vidler | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. 2 x Laps to warmup. Okay climbing, but desperate at the grade!
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Thu 11th Oct 2018 - Upper Pinios Valley | ||||||
Meteora Southern Group Holy Ghost | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Iphigenia | 250m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
A great final route to end the trip on. Similar to Pillar of Dreams but with less grovelling, and a bit more athletic. Every pitch had value, but the first 3 in particular were standouts. Still -unsurprisingly- quite runout, but well protected on the actual hard moves. The crux Pitch 3 is steep and sustained with punchy moves (and even heel hooking)! About 6 hours car to car. P1 (Onsight); P2 (Clean 2nd); P3 (Pink Point - 2nd shot); P4 (Clean 2nd); P5 (Onsight); P6 (Clean 2nd); P7 (Onsight). My favourite route of my time in Meteora.
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Wed 10th Oct 2018 - Upper Pinios Valley | ||||||
Meteora Western Group The Bell | ||||||
7+ | ★★★ Allemannischer Schelledanz | 100m, 29 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed as 3 pitches. Another quality route, with a surprisingly sporty (short) top pitch. Not too runout for the area, and with a variety of pebble pulling moves and angles. P1 - Clean 2nd; P2 & P3 (linked) - Onsight; P4 - Clean 2nd.
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Tue 9th Oct 2018 - Little Gorge | ||||||
Blade Wall | ||||||
6b | ★★ I.R.A. | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
More nutty grading. The start is insecure and quite physical, and the finale is steep and strenuous.
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6c | ★★ Blade | 13m | ★ Good | |||
2nd shot. Not sure a valid 6c can have a V3 crux? Mostly super easy, but with an utterly nails powerful boulder-problem finale. It's a cool boulder, just not sustained, and kind of a piss-take at the grade.
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Mon 8th Oct 2018 - Upper Pinios Valley | ||||||
Meteora Southern Group Adrachti | ||||||
7a A1 | ★★ Via Scorpion | 40m, 15 | ★ Good | |||
The rock is kinda crap, but -depending how much you choose to free- the climbing is extremely bouldery for Meteora and bloody unique. Climbed as a single pitch belayed from the track.
Not sure what the story with the grade on this one is. Even trying to research it in town I couldnt figure it out. Clean 2nd P1 and I climbed P2 at 7a A1 with 2 points of aid (1 major, 1 minor)... there is no way this is 5c with 1 point of aid. I couldnt touch the 7b move, and another 1m was utterly beyond me as well. What I freed was the hardest climbing I did at Meteora. I suspect there is some misinformation about the grade, or epic breakages. |
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6a+ | ★★★ Gordian Knots | 40m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
First climb in Meteora! Climbed as a giant single pitch belayed from the track with negligable rope drag. An awesome phallic feature to climb, with strange and engaging climbing the whole way, pulling on improbable pebbles and breaking out the gritstone techniques.
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Sun 7th Oct 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Ivory Tower | ||||||
6b | ★★ Perskindol | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Doesnt look like much, but climbs spectacularly at the grade! Thoroughly recommended.
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Sat 6th Oct 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Iannis | ||||||
7b | ★★ Sevasti | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot. I made it through the power-undercling crux on my flash, and got confused trying to find the useable holds amongst the truckload of chalk on the mantle. I actually only JUST barely caught the undercling mini-staly on the 2nd lap and fought to stay on it for the send. Enjoyable varied 7a climbing to the crux, then a true boulderer's bouldery boulder-problem crux. Rad!
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Sat 6th Oct 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Panorama | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Mind Boggle | 30m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot. A bit of an everything climb, with a jump, a hard slab, some hard techo tufas, and sustained steep tufas. A great line and totally my style. Loved it.
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Sat 6th Oct 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | ||||||
5a | ★ Elefantenhimmel (part 1) | 15m | Average | |||
No rope drag when combing pitches this way! Short flowstone slab. High quality for a proper easy climb.
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7a | ★★★ DNA | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Stupidly overhanging at the grade. I found so many upside down no-hands rests on this that I reached the top feeling as fresh as if I'd just climbed a 6c.
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Fri 5th Oct 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Telendos Eros | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Tremendos en Telendos | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Onsight ended on the final big throw of the multi-throw crux thanks to a red herring tickmark Still almost stayed on, but not quite. 2nd shot it is. An awesome techo slab leads to sequential lobs and a pleasant sharp-ish slabby finale. A worthy route.
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6c | ★★★ 3 Îlots (3 Ilots) | 32m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Onsight but the draws were in situ. Brilliant long face climbing. No hard moves, but no dawdly ones. Pockets, crimps and rails, and not a boring bit in sight.
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Fri 5th Oct 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Telendos Pescatore | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Zorba's Restaurant | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Briefly hard (I guess?) at the start, then a cruise to the top. Nice enough tufa climbing, I suppose, but immemorable really.
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7a | ★★ Y Viva Pancho Villa! | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Jeebus! The 3 move crux of this were probably the hardest 3 moves I pulled on any route of Kalymnos. Once I figured the crux I lowered and sent straight away. Interesting tufa climbing, with gnarly tufa crux. Love the stalagtite.
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6c+ | ★ Farabutto | 25m | Average | |||
Okay slabbing with in interesting lower section, but features a nasty sharp, overhanging, bouldery crux. Would be regarded as higher quality elsewhere, but not at Kalymnos.
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6a+ | ★★ Leane | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Enjoyable sharpish slab. Quite long. Quite sustained. Would be regarded as higher quality elsewhere, but not at Kalymnos.
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Thu 4th Oct 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Ivory Tower | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Sidewinder | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Bwah. Tough and greasy in todays conditions, but a great (and demanding) line! The traverse and finale is quite gripping
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Tue 2nd Oct 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | ||||||
7a | ★★ KalyPige | 35m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A brilliant long techo tufa pitch with so muh long climbing. In the 1000% humidity of the day I only JUST managed to avoid sweating off this thing... which made it kinda scary.
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6c | ★★ Taz | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The rock and climbing are beautiful, but ita just too squeezy with all the neighbouring routes
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Mon 1st Oct 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Ivory Tower | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ The Craic | 36m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Went quite easily today in good conditions. A great route with two awesome lower crux sequences, but probably not hard for the grade.
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6c | ★★ Aypa | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Two interesting and opposite cruxes, but a bit too sharp to be a real treat.
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Sun 30th Sep 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Spartacus | ||||||
6c | ★★ Nabuchodonsor | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Another demanding slab/face epic... and -though brilliant- outshined by its 2 lefthand neighbours.
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7b | ★★★ Gladiator | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot. Surprisingly, the boukder problem slab start isnt as hideous as it looks, though the bolting throughout the route is. The steep headwall is powerful and techo and sequency... but most of all RAD.
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Sun 30th Sep 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Spartan Wall | ||||||
7b 7a+ | ★★★ Leonidas (Leonides) | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Unrelenting and improbable steep slab. I stayed on this by the skin of my teeth for dozens of nearly-off sequences, and the infamous upper traverse was a high-stress puzzle that I can only assume I fluked. Brilliant and massochistic. 7b in all current guides.
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Sat 29th Sep 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Afternoon | ||||||
6c | ★★ Bye Bye Doc | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Quintessential VERDON! If you want to know what a 200m 6a-7a multi in Gorges du Verdon feels like, just do 10 laps on this. Polished and sharpish, but classic grey-slab techo. Runnels, solution pockets, blocky slopers, bowling-ball holds...
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Sat 29th Sep 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Kalydna | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Nickel | 32m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Another great one on beautiful techo tufas and weirdo blobs. Sustained in general... but the finale is hard... I hung for 10min on "non holds" still on link to work it out! One of my favourites of this trip.
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6c+ | ★★ Calida | 28m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Everything one could ask for in a tough slab at this grade range. Sustained, varied, unrelenting, aesthetic. Loved it... but thought it tough!
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7a+ | ★★ Tassir | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting sustained techo climbing on nice rock... until the final few bolts when the dial gets turned up to 11. Intimidating and precarious conclusion.
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6c | ★★ Uschana | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome sustained slabbing... but the final 1/3rd is utterly desperate and slippery... only just stayed on. Actually climbed ABOVE the anchor into the harder extension to clip it at my feet!
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Thu 27th Sep 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Sikati Bay Sikati Cave | ||||||
6c | ★★ Dropzone - with Matt Minus | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Flash placing draws. Some really tricky moves, but very improbable climbing for the grade on great rock! The start and the steep section were not easy.
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7b | ★★★ Où est l'Équipe (Ou est l' equipe) - with Matt Minus | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot. 20m of great 6b+ steep-tufa climbing followed by a looooong v3 boulder problem. Despite the cruxy nature of the route, the start is so pleasant that I didnt mind doing a 2nd lap up it for the tick.
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7a | ★★★ Lolita - with Matt Minus | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit too demanding as a warmup! Only just kept it together at the crux boulder, and the nutty runouts to the top were quite gripping. A route of all angles.
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Wed 26th Sep 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Panorama | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Rüsselparadies P1 | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A long, wandery, pumpy adventure with a great deal of movement between each bolt. A good challenge at EOD. The final slab moves almost spat me off!
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6c | ★ Gwundernase - with Matt Minus | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good climbing moving around a mix of tufas and blobs with a few tricky sections
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7a+ | ★★★ Aegean Sea - with Matt Minus | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Oodles of moderate steep tufa jugging, until suddenly it turns kicks it up a notch and becomes complex, 3D, and cryptic. Psyched to keep this one together.
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6b | ★★ Carpe Diem - with Matt Minus | 16m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great technical tufa and blob climbing, but this felt hideously polished into oblivion.
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Tue 25th Sep 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Spartacus | ||||||
7a | ★★ Mon Batchounousougounoudoudou | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
No-beta flash (but draws in situ). A hard start to the ledge, then steep pumping to a surprisingly slippery and complex finish. This felt haaaaard at EOD and I only just kept it together.
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6c+ | ★★★ Aphrodisia - with Matt Minus | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A hard move down low, but generally quite sustained and varied. Tufas, pockets, sloppers... its on to the anchors.
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7a | ★★★ Kerveros - with Matt Minus | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Quintessentual tufa jugging. Pumpy and with a few challenging moves. Try not to get lost in the sea of chalk or atop the glassy polished finish.
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