Ascents as various tick types as sport by Paul Frothy Thomson

Once you get past the hideous start, this is tolerable as an access pitch, though certainly the ball-and-chain on the pitches above.

A climb of many parts. A funky layback start, some gripping arete climbing, and a techo (and surprisingly hard-to-read) face finale. I didn't bring enough draws so had the "pleasure" of skipping 2 bolts in the upper section. Only marred by the retro'd crack start, and the rather dubious rock on the face.

Probably about grade 20 if you can crack climb. The finale isn't the crux if you can. At any rate, an awesome, landmark corner with varied and interesting moves the entire way. Super duper traddy.

Might even be classic if the move at the 3rd bolt (and in particular the nightmare clip) weren't so hideous, and it was a bit less ledgy. The upper half is brilliant climbing on tasty rock with some spicy runouts, and a techo slabby finale.

Utterly nails at the grade, and my favourite on the routes on this wall. Not very sustained, but the hard moves between each rest are interesting and varied. Great rock.

Onsight from the crux up. A very hard crux fingery at the grade, and substantially harder than the rest of the route. Not as clean or sustained as its neighbours, but still worthy,.

Accidentally got on this instead of Edge of Pleasure. Didn't take long to realise our mistake. Heinously hard friction slabbing on untrafficked, somewhat mossy, somewhat snappy rock. Getting up this clean is about as hard as I can climb in the style.

The stupid screw-in sheathed caving bolts on the lower pitch unscrew themselves due to the fixed hangers (one only had about 3 turns of thread left from falling out). I didn't particularly enjoy having to hand-screw in the bolts (not the nuts, the bloody BOLTS) on lead.

First redpoint burn today after a bolt-to-bolt to warmup and equip. Felt strong and climbed well (its amazing what temperatures about 0 do for one's climbing ability), and sending this was a great end-cap to the trip, finishing in mega-classic fashion. Getting the team-send with Will Vidler was just the perfect conclusion.

Loved the dihedral boulder problem start. The rest of the route across the face and up the arete is fun but only about 10c.

Onsight from the crux up, flash to that point. Awesome 5.10ish arete climbing to the crux, to a rather committing and sandbagged move to gain the slab, then pleasant padding afterwards. Rock isnt mind-blowing, but the climbing is at the grade.

Not great rock, but enjoyable technical climbing on weird holds. The lower half is intense at the grade.

2nd shot. This did not make for a good warmup, and the 2nd shot send was a total surprise, as i thought I had no chance. Similar to a bentrovato wall face route on slightly better rock, marred only by a genuinely unpleasant main crux. To go from fear-of-frostbite after wading across the creek, to dodging icefall and Sending... rad!

Jeebus, these are not good warmups. I had to try bloody hard not to fall off this. Short but sustained, fingery climbing.

Aside from the crux of this being a proper sandbag (try 11c!), this route is funky wandery weirdness up a steep arete feature. Bloody good.

Punter! Got so excited by the taipanesque sloper grooves that I forgot to look for the face hold finger-jugs. Had an exciting fall from this!

Rather gnarly on the fingers for a warmup, and quite sustained. Techical face climbing on incipient seam-features.

Brilliant face-climbing into a committing and demanding steep arete. As good as it gets for an easy route.

Had to work bloody hard to onsight this old-school style committing classic, and got rather noisy with no chalk on the top to guide the bouldery finale, but stoked to manage it. A porters pass wandery slab leads to steep cranking and some gripping runouts. Psyched! I got hit on the head by a falling icycle while climbing this!

3rd shot. Classic Frothy send: riding the darkness with a headlamp, spoogy conditions, and a water streak wetting key footers. Beautiful Buoux pockets to super techo slab, this route was made by Satan just for my pleasure . Despite some sources saying 13a, this is definitely only 12d, even after I broke off half the crux hold.

Even better, even more nails! Beautiful rock, steepness, pockets, body positions.

Ludicrous sandbag, but bloody spectacular even in miserable conditions. Steep pocket and funky body positions.

Very broken up, but 3 x super rad cruxes in different styles. The bouldery pocketed start is the highlight, but the face sections are interesting mono slabbing. Really cool. Prolly 12c.

Mostly cruisy (but weird) crimping with a single hard pull on a small hold. Okay, I guess.

Surprisingly thin and sustained at the grade. Make sure you warmup your fingers first.

Super short, but fun, committing gritstone slap-arete. Exciting in the wet, with a few moments of real panic.

Struggled in the cold today (numbed out on previous efforts), but managed to stick it out by skipping the final clip entirely.

Basically a dawdle, with a v16 crux... even harder in the cold. Not a recommended warmup.

So impossibly steep, with less jugs than you might expect, but still not too hard at the grade. Tonnes of fun.

Mega climbing on a waterpolished steep face, but very cruxy. I came up with a moderately ludicrous drive-by cutloose for the send.

Beautiful rock and varied moves, with some tough climbing at the grade in the middle. The giant hueco's are funky!

Pretty cool wandery steepness at the grade... but very stop-start.

Bloody oath this is steep for the grade! Endless jugs forever with so much roofing!

Steep as, with some cryptic sequences up high. So pumped on the onsight that this needed a 2nd lap.

Some thin moves for a warmup. A long pumpy face.

A tad damp, though fun for a short blunt slabby arete. The crux was soloing up to the first bolt via some tenuous footers.

Its a good omen for a trip when you have to project the warmup as your first route in The Gorge... but I got there in the end. Super steep jugs with a brief pocketed bouldery crux.

An awesome climb linking rad features... with a healthy dose of committment. Felt more 11c to me.

FFA. Backlogging the FA. Sent this packing on my last possible shot before heading off to America, thanks muchly to the entourage of belayers who hung out on the ledge with me throughout this process. Old school, wandery, super-thin, reachy face-climbing which -as a full package- is a tonne of effort, but rewarding in the end. I'd argue that this is one of the best examples of this particular style in the Blueys, but theres a chance I'm just a liiiiiiiiiiitle bit biased. Maybe avoid it if its windy, though.

2nd shot. Aside from some dubious rock, the climbing on this is bloody awesome. I suspect this is almost a 26 by now (with breakage), as I had to pull out all the guns and some funky trickery for the send. Regardless of grade, it's absolutely brilliant. Not a drop of chalk on it from start to finish, though?

Clean repeat. Much more fun than I remember. A really cool warm-up.

Was hoping to dispatch this quickly today... it still felt bloody hard even on the Send. Hard 25 or maybe even 26 by my reckoning. Despite being a line of "features", I'm never really able to use my footwork to "rest" in the upper half, making it really pumpy to the anchor. Bloody awesome though.

Not the best rock, but really interesting climbing. The upper-half of this in particular is quite sustained and varied. Even for the red-point I thought this is a pretty tough number for "24". The complex finale to the anchors (the last 2 bolts or so) is what made this route for me. Be careful getting to the 3rd bolt.

Felt strong and dispatched fairly soundly today... still had to crank though. I was dead tired from the yesterday, but the "no expectations" meant I had no monkey on my back, and just treated this like training... then Sent.

Good to finally get this done. Not sure how many days I've been on this, probably 4 or 5 over the last year. Up until you gain the hanging dihedral this is awesome gr23ish climbing, then it's on like Donkey Kong to the top. There are two completely different sequences through the crux (even using totally different holds) which both felt the same grade to me, and whichever one I preferred changed each time I got on this. The lefthand version is more powerful, but more "controllable" for me (I like shoulder moves), and suits us tallies. The righthand method is probably the only way shorties will be able to get up this.

Repeat, this time placing draws. I got very, very pumped... but damn the climbing is good. Really, really steep.

2nd shot. Didn't seem too hard at the grade, but with no chalk on the crux holds, I didn't quite find the best part on the onsight attempt. I really rate the moves, but wasn't that inspired by the rock quality. Still a great climb, though.