Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Tue 7th Nov 2023 - Avon Gorge | ||||||
Sea Walls Area The New Quarry | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Bushmen... (Chepstow Zombie Finish) - with Jess | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Better defined than it’s neighbours. Feels less squeezed.
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Thu 2nd Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Golden Fleece - with Jess | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities - with Jess | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 2nd Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Coyote Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Coyote - with Jess | 40m | ||||
Somehow I’d never done this before. One move
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17 | ★ Golliwogs Cakewalk - with Jess | 40m | ★ Good | |||
3m are classic
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Sat 4th Feb 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Skydiver - with Oz | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★ Spasticus Autisticus - with Oz | 17m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Always good
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22 | ★★ Easy Does It - with Oz | 12m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★★ Free Admission - with Oz | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 4th Feb 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
22 | ★★ Glory Rodent - with Oz | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had done this one for ages
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Sun 22nd Jan 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Preludes | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
with Steve
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13 | ★★ Stalagmite | 36m | ★ Good | |||
with Steve
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19 | ★ Rosy Shy | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
with Steve
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18 | ★ Subliminal Cut | 18m | ★ Good | |||
with Steve. Worth doing. Nice rock
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Sat 1st Oct 2022 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Central Buttress | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Missing - with @1293 | 75m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Great climbing. A little bit heady off the couch especially with brand new shoes. Why has it taken me so to do this route? I climbed Simpleton 25 years ago!
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Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Flat Rock | ||||||
West Flank | ||||||
18 | ★ MOAB | 20m, 8 | ||||
20 | ★★ Alpha Decay | 17m, 9 | ||||
22 | ★ Minutes to Midnight | 30m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
The start had smaller holds than I though but they were closer together than I thought.
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22 | ★★ Without Warning | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Steeper than it looks at the top
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20 | ★ The Big Red Button | 15m, 5 | ||||
21 | ★ Fat Boy | 15m, 7 | ||||
I missed something and it seemed tricky.
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Sun 11th Oct 2020 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Fort Knox Pooh Wall | ||||||
17 | Eeor's Tail - with Matt Dal Santo | 12m, 1 | ||||
18 | ★ Tigger's Mark - with Matt Dal Santo | 12m, 2 | ||||
16 | Christopher Robbin: Toy Boy - with Matt Dal Santo | 12m, 2 | ||||
17 | ★ Piglet Gets Porked - with Matt Dal Santo | 15m, 3 | ||||
19 | ★ Pooh Gets A Dip In The Honey Pot - with Matt Dal Santo | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 9th Aug 2020 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Rubber Neeples | 18m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Over pretty quickly but worth doing
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Sun 12th Jul 2020 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Clear the Pipes | 25m, 2 | ||||
Discontinuous but climbs pretty well.
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14 | ★★ Tremulo | 25m | ||||
Surely i've done this before and not recorded it.
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Mon 24th Feb 2020 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Deep Freeze | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great little wall this one. Super smeggy/sauna day. Nice to tick even with bad conditions. The gear is all there but not straightforward, either to see or place.
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Sun 23rd Sep 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | ||||||
13 | ★ Sob Story | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Somehow I'd never done these ones!
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Mon 9th Jul 2018 - Mt Barney | ||||||
East Peak | ||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge - with jess malcolm and rob | 750m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Onsight solo. Haha! Funny that's a tick option now.
Down the gorge.
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Sun 8th Jul 2018 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
21 | ★ TOS Extension | 19m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Thought I was going to fall off this when I missed some holds haha! I also somehow missed a clip. I even already had a draw on it!
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26 | ★★ Meter Maids | 18m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really good but unfortunately eases off in the top half. 7 or 8 move sequence on nicely featured rock.
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Sun 1st Jul 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
15 | ★ Smeagol | 110m | ||||
Seems a litttle contrived here and there. If it was the only route in the area it'd be popular and clean! The rock is good.
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Sat 16th Jun 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | ||||||
21 | Amazing Lace Direct Start | 23m | ★ Good | |||
I got 5 rp's in on the lower wall (including a #0 that Mark happened to have on his rack). Surely one of them would've held. The middle section of this is quite nice but not long enough and then there's the dodgy block.
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19 19 R | ★ Amazing Lace | 23m | Average | |||
Sat 2nd Jun 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
18 | ★ Riding the Quayle | 130m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
The second and third pitch are quite good, better than the first pitch I think.
Rough idea of pitch grades
P1 17 one stand up move at the bolt
P2 18
P3 16
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Mon 9th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Antiques Road Show | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 1st Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Velvet Green | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 9th Feb 2018 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||||||
The Ravine | ||||||
20 | ★★ Try Land - with Gregor | 17m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Tue 16th Jan 2018 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Harrop Track Ruined Castle | ||||||
23 | ★★ The First Crusade Pitch 2 | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Steep on mostly good jugs but not that long.
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22 | ★★★ Christendom | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting climbing. Easier and better than it looks and it looks pretty good to start with!
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24 | ★★ Catapult | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Great rock but not super consistent. Easy jugs, one hard move and then slightly awkward groove bit. The position on this wall is magic. Would be super popular if it was closer to the car or ground.
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Tue 28th Nov 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Spurt Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Dial-A-Lama - with Callum Dougall, Geordie Webb | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I might've done this twenty years ago but don't remember. Great climbing.
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Sun 26th Nov 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Mother Brown | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Three good sections. The slabby crux is fun. Well protected if you look for it.
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Sun 19th Nov 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Guide for the Perplexed - with mark gould | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky to figure out. Went pretty easily on the second go. There is a good cam under the roof. It's a bit tricky to see exactly where but it's a #1 camalot about 1m right of the "tooth" flake. It's also a bit perplexing figuring out where to go over the lip of the roof.
Good route altogether. Great rock apart from the one flake under the roof which probably won't go anywhere.
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Sat 18th Nov 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
21 | ★ Rats in the Ranks - with adam demmert | 22m | ★ Good | |||
A couple of good grunts through the steep bit. The headwall is good I thought. Slightly overhanging and keeps going
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Sat 18th Nov 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Dead Metaphor | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Double ropes are great on this! Ran it out between the bolts. It would be a long but ok fall.
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Sun 12th Nov 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Pacemaker - with jess | 110m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A couple of racey but well protected bits. Really good. You could link 2 and 3 but probably better to link 3 and 4.
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Sat 11th Nov 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
23 | Hard Chat | 28m, 1 | Average | |||
I went too far right trying to avoid Fish Disco the first time. Got it second go. You actually climb left of the crux bolt, over near the bolt on Fish Disco. A couple of thin pulls at the crux, very hard for 22. The next section after the bolt has thin and fiddly gear (1 and 2 RPs) and feels a bit committing.
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22 | ★ Exit Stage Left | 35m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
A much friendlier alternative finish to BaL.
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23 | ★★ Break a Leg | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Committing up the last 5m. You definitely want a 0.4 or 0.3 camalot size piece after the crux to get you to the anchor. You might not break your leg but it probably wouldn't be fun to fall off.
You can get down with a single 60 if you do a short rap leftwards to GB's anchor then a second rap from there. You might reach from the top anchor on stretch (we didn't try).
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19 | ★★ Little By Little | 32m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Got down with a 60 just.
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20 | ★ Greasy Burritos Extension | 10m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
nice climbing. Feels a little run out.
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Wed 8th Nov 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★ Today | 15m | ★ Good | |||
I was sure I'd done this before but now I'm not sure. Steep but a bit short. I stayed left after the ledge and went direct up the little wall to finish.
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Wed 8th Nov 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★ Family Food | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Light on gear but nice climbing.
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Tue 24th Oct 2017 - Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park | ||||||
North Chasm View Wall | ||||||
5.10- 5.10- III | ★★ Comic Relief - with Jess | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great (cold) day! Really good pitches until the last rambly bit which is still ok. Relatively un-epic for the black.
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Thu 14th Sep 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief Tantalus Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Express Lane | 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The offwidth on the original looks like it would mean most people do this finish. Fantastic position!
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5.11c 5.11c R | ★★★ Freeway | 350m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Really really good. Lots of great bits and pretty continuous at the grade. Tried to get on this 15 years ago but it wouldn't stop raining!
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Mon 12th Jun 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Upper Pharos Gully | ||||||
20 | Bitchy and Itchy | 13m | Average | |||
The start is a bit goey
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19 | ★★ Memoirs of a Fox-hunting Gentleman | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Why had I never done this before? Great! and steeper than I thought.
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Fri 9th Jun 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
18 | ★ Miss Moneypenny | 20m, 3 | Average | |||
A few sections at the same-ish grade. Pretty consistent.
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20 | ★ Pussy Galore | 20m, 2 | Average | |||
I found the crux more awkward than hard. Maybe I didn't find the best way. Unfortunately has a ledge half way.
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19 | ★ The G Spot | 23m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Worth doing. A good addition for sure.
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Sat 8th Apr 2017 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||||||
The Olive Cave | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Taser (Tazer) - with great climbing! | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Supposed to be a comeback project but it went second go! After 5 months off I'm feeling strong but unfit.
With Josh
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Tue 31st Jan 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
20 | ★ Better Than That | 25m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Found it a bit tricky to figure out where to go after the bolt. Not obvious moves.
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Thu 26th Jan 2017 - Bundaleer Area | ||||||
Bundaleer | ||||||
24 | ★ Lunging For Melons Extension | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Took quite a few cracks at the hard bit before I figured it out. Hard to onsight overall I reckon. Really cool subtle moves after the big move. Happy to get this after three months of not climbing. Pumped as at the top and has to pull a bit of technique out to stay on.
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Sun 25th Dec 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area | ||||||
5 | ★★★ Tiptoe Ridge | 120m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Mass ascent of about 10? With champagne on top!
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Fri 4th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area New Image Wall | ||||||
26 | FA ★★ Project | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Dusted and done. Not sure on the grade. Felt 25-26 ish. Let me know what you think.
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Fri 28th Oct 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
30 | ★★★ Ethiopia | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Success! Didn't feel too bad after a rest.
Great route
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Sat 22nd Oct 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Squeakeasy | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Waited 20 years to onsight this one. Super cool. The crux was wet and I got rained on in the top half. Exciting! With Jess
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Sat 15th Oct 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area New Image Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Blackguard | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Unlikely looking but worthy. Gear and holds are actually there.
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Sat 15th Oct 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★ Pyrrhic Victory | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
How had I not done this route before!?! Better than Tarantula.
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21 | ★★ Aussie Logic | 23m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Probably stiff. Worth doing for sure.
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Tue 9th Aug 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Renovation Nation | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 15th Jun 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Renovation Nation (Renovation Revolution) | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I nearly put this up a couple of years ago but chose not to. I wish I had now. It's quite good.
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Sat 7th May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Brown Thumb | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★ Greenfingers | 15m | ||||
20 | ★ Indecisivity | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Not the best route at Arapiles.
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23 | ★★ Misunderestimated | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great rock and nice techy climbing. Not very long, the business is about 5m.
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22 | ★ Cogito Ergo Wobble | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Almost z-clipped!
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19 | ★ I Am Not A Pork Chop | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good but the business is very short. Maybe one star.
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Fri 22nd Apr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
20 | Harrier | 100m | ★ Good | |||
The first 5m are great then it turns into nothing.
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Sat 9th Apr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Absolutely Fabulous | 88m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 1st Apr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Grand Design | 54m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 13th Feb 2016 - Montanejos | ||||||
Barranco de la Maimona Placas del Sol | ||||||
7a | ★★ Tres semanas y pico | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A bit fiery for 7a. Not overbolted.
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7b | Directa italiana | Average | ||||
A bit disappointing. The start is nails.
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6c+ | ★★★ Romeo y Loleta | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Don't solo the start. See, I told you so.
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6c+ | ★★★ No te rías que quemas calorías | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6a+ | ★ Hombres de pastel | ★ Good | ||||
6a+ | ★ Los Elefantes Llevan Tirantes | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit same samey
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Tue 9th Feb 2016 - Los Vados | ||||||
La Guarderia | ||||||
7a 6c+ | ★★ Via 7 (R3) | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
These routes were all way better than we thought they would be!
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6c 6b | Pocoyó (R4) | 18m | ||||
Cool flow stone to start
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6b+ 6b | ★★ Petit Cheri | 38m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great finish
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6a+ | ★★ Hello Kitty | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b 6a+ | ★★ Noddy (R1) | 19m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b 6a+ | ★★ Calliou (R2) | 19m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 5th Feb 2016 - El Chorro | ||||||
Makinodromo Makinódromo | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Hakuna Matata | 32m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Crazy popular.
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6c | ★ Salida de emergencia (L1) | 17m, 7 | Average | |||
Two hard moves on mega polish.
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