Ascents in North America as trad

Short but hard.

Actually climbed this as Hirosaki -- gear up the opening section, then past the intermediate anchor on the bolts from Nagasaki to finish on its anchor.

Squeeze clásico de la coconetla, rutas clásicas que sin importas el grado te dan una arratriza !!

Led in 2 pitches first being 66m

Linked pitches 2-3 using the 5.7 variation. 3:20 to climb, 2:00 to descend. Fun line with good gear when you need it.

Start was soaking wet and slimy, other bits were wet in the crack, so we decided to TR it.

First gear lead of the season!

Does it count as a clean send if you undergrip on mega jugs on a 5.8 then fall 2m onto a ledge standing and your belayer doesn't even notice?

Sick Yosemite intro - p6 was the scariest thing I've ever led, 2 pitons and one worthwhile cam placement over 30m of traversing while still not totally trusting the granite smears - the handholds were the equivalent of pulling on a stale arnotts lemon crisp at points.

Felt like I went through a footwork class over 10 pitches and it finally started to click by the end. Shit's rough in the valley.

Linked 1/2, 3/4, 7-8.5 then ran out of rope.

So bloody classic! Usually cruisy but always interesting, in the most insane position next to the falls! It’s got everything: splitters on slab, offwidth, traversy slab… totally captures the beauty of Squam. A perfect climbing day!

Pitches 1 to 6 only.

10 pieces, this is the record!