Routes in Oceania

On the walk up to Orroral Tor, about 150 metres into the trees is a small boulder. The curving, hand to finger crack facing up the valley to a tree belay.

There is a small outcrop about two-thirds of the way up the hill, usually passed on its right, which features a large curving broken flake on the right.

The curving flake. Tyson's first lead.

About 30 metres down and left of the flake is a curving lichenous crack in a gully. Climb the crack, over the block and up the short, dirty slab. The rest of the climbs are on the Tor itself.

The obvious right angled chimney corner on the river side. Straight up from just inside the chimney and finish up the slab.

A useful access route to 'The Platform'. Start as for 'Dead Horse Gap'.

1. 43 metres - Walk inside the chimney, scramble over some boulders, then up the slab. Walk up to the end of the gully to belay.

2. 7 metres - Chimney up into the boulders, exiting through a hole in the roof.

The obvious chimney five metres left of 'Dead Horse Gap' with an off-width start.

Imaginative naming from the Dark Ages. Start in the big chimney 50 metres left of 'Dead Horse Gap'. Climb the curving crack and chimney in the right wall.

Sustained climbing with a great position. Start four metres left of 'Bosch Boys'. Climb up past five bolts until the angle steepens. Move up and traverse left to the arete past two more bolts then step up on a flake to clip the eighth bolt. Downclimb two metres and move left and up the flake on 'Tautology'. Belay on 1.5 and 2 size Friends.

OK and alright. Start below the right wall of an open gully 100 metres left of 'Dead Horse Gap'. Climb up the flake, then the slab to the overlap. Traverse right then diagonally out onto the arete and up.

The crack at the head of the gully with a hard, undercut start.

The painful finger crack two metres left of 'Chum'.

The name says it all. The wide crack two metres left of 'Meaty Bites'.

The thin crack in a v-groove, 10 metres left of 'Kitty Litter' (start marked).

Quite neat. Start below the roof five metres right of 'Face Value'. Up through the roof and jam crack. Left at the second roof and follow the diagonal crack across the wall.

Extremely pleasant. Start on the terrace on the left side of the gully. Traverse from the terrace to the left-hand side of the block beneath the blank corner, at the far left of the terrace. Climb the easy corner to the ledge, then up, traversing right when it steepens near the top.

Start as for 'Face Value'. Traverse left along the horizontal break and pull up. Climb the brushed wall past two bolts.

Around left from the gully is a black wall with a number of crack lines:

Worth the walk. Named after the American model, Ginger Meadowed, who was eaten by a croc in WA. Start about five metres right of 'Myopia' at a short corner. Climb the corner and crack to a block. Finish up the brushed wall and slab past two bolts.

Nice, if somewhat disjointed. The middle crackline (start marked): a short, leaning corner with jammed flakes. From the ledge follow the curving flake into 'Ceiling Wax'.

The far left-hand crack and roof, three metres left of 'Myopia'.

Interesting. Start on the boulder to the left of the small gully, at a short corner leading to a curving off-width. Climb the crack to the roof, then left and up the off-width to a ledge. Finish up a short corner.

On the next boulder is an impressive flared off-width with an overhanging start, and further left is a wide gully. Uraken is on a terrace halfway up the other side - the short, leftwards leaning crack (start marked).

The right-hand flake-formed crackline down and left from 'Uraken', with an interesting finish.

The other side of the flake. Climb the right-hand crack, then the flake. Finish up a short corner.

On the downhill side of the outcrop, a crack system leads to a series of zig-zag diagonal roofs. Start at the crack near the big tree and follow the line.

The horrible corner system five metres left of 'Awk' with a loose chockstone.

The 'Juveniles and Geriatrics' of the Tor. Pleasant climbing on the cleaned slabby wall 30 metres down and left of 'Skarasen'. After a hard start climb the groove past two bolts to the horizontal break. Move diagonally left onto the nose then rightwards past another bolt to summit jugs.

Good varied climbing spoilt by a wide start. Start at the evil looking offwidth four metres right of 'Love in the Time of Cholera'. Grovel upwards using face holds until the crack narrows to fist then finger jams and peters out. Climb the slab past a bolt up to the belay.

Another good sustained slab. Start two metres left of 'My Face is My Future'. Boulder the start to the first bolt, then left and up to the second bolt. Sustained climbing past two more bolts relents with good flakes between the fourth and fifth. From the fifth bolt run it out up the slab and left onto the arete. Climb up to a short diagonal crack (#3 rock) then up the short slab to the belay.

Start up the mossy gully 15 metres right of 'Godzilla Borrows the Bosch'. Use a small biner on the first bolt then up past eight more to a thin finish, with the crux being the final clip. Take some small cams for the crack up high.

Boulder out the thin start five metres right of 'Godzilla Meets the Smog Monster', then cruise up past nine bolts. A misinformed raiding party a week later intended to steal the route, noted a cairn start and removed four bolts during the second ascent; these were replaced the following day!

An immaculate dyke: straight, steep and sustained. The first "ascent" involved some rather dubious methods and the climb was freed a few weeks later. Start at the wide crack 10 metres right of 'The Orroral Bolt Route'. Climb the crack to the (dead!) tree, then traverse left to the dyke. Follow the left-hand dyke above the second of four bolts.

Good climbing up a fine line with no bolts. It is now somewhat overgrown. Start about 50 metres right of 'Dead Horse Gap' where a tree lies against the face. Originally 17M1, T3 with two aids. John Smart and Ray Lassman "freed" it by bridging further up the tree. Up the shaky tree with a long and delicate reach to the crack (mega desperate for the short), then up and up the crack and straight up the slab above.

At the finish of 'Boulder Choke' is a leftwards diagonal roof crack. Awkwardly up the crack and around the corner to belay a few metres on.

Varied climbing up the crack and wall with three bolts, starting immediately left of 'Wankel Rotary Engine'.

The chimney in the right-hand wall of the grassy gully (start marked).

The thin crack six metres right of 'Wankel Rotary Engine', on the left wall of an enclosure. Finish up a ramp and right around the roof. Poorly protected.

On the buttress just to the right. Up the ramp then up the thin overhanging crack to the top of the flake. Step down to join 'Side Effect'.

The obvious corner then rap to a tree belay.

Inside the archway further up the gully from 'Side Effect'. Climb the flake that leans against the right wall, then up beside the capstone into the chimney. Up, then climb the flake corner and mantle onto the over-hanging block. Step across the gap and up the short wall.

A steep little arete in a good position, although the holds are a little sharp. Start about 15 metres right of 'Inside Job' where the boulder juts out over the slab. Climb up the wall on good but sharp holds past three bolts to a massive flake formed jug (sling runner). Up easily using a dubious hollow flake to a bolt belay.

An exploratory traverse from right to left under the Lightning slab roof, starting at the Helter Skelter ramp. Take some RPs.

Superb slab climbing leading to an exciting conclusion. Start at the obvious leftwards ramp.

1. 35 metres (21) - Up the ramp and diagonally left past two bolts to where the ramp continues. Up the seam to belay under the handcrack in the roof.

2. 7 metres (22) - Through the roof!

The magnificent curving flake at the lefthand end of Lightning Slab: take large and small gear. The short easy corner was done as a second pitch.

Hidden in the boulders below and against the main wall is a pleasant juggy slab in a cave, finishing through a hole to a branch belay. Take wires.

Good jamming and bridging up the corner crack after a short graunchy start just left of the boulder jumble. Rap off a sling.

15 metres further left and slightly uphill is a rightwards trending wide crack system, first climbed at the end of daylight saving.

1. 15 metres - The steep fist crack (crux) eases back then step left to a good stance.

2. 25 metres - Continue up a corner system to belay behind large flakes.

3. 15 metres - Take the rightwards leaning flake to a good stance. Finish left up a slab adjacent to the diagonal crack.

15 metres left of 'Daylight Robbery' is a handcrack through a small roof. Up and through the roof, swim up the offwidth, then left up a curving ramp. Finish up a short mossy slab.

Above the finish to 'Caught in the Cakeshop' is a beautiful cleaned flake right of a slabby arete. Fine sustained climbing finishing up a slab past a bolt to a block belay.

Quite good. Start seven metres to the left of and around the arete from 'Hopes up for Trousers Down'. Climb the finger crack until able to step onto the arete (crux). Runout moves from the horizontal break lead to a block belay.

The mossy crack in the wall five metres left of 'Uncut Jewel'.

In a short blocked gully 50 metres left of the main bluff. The horrible crack with a narrowing finish in the left wall.

The hand crack.

Continuing north along the ridge will bring you to another set of boulders at the verge of a steep drop to the valley. Heading east from these boulders will take you to a descent gully. Halfway down the lefthand fork is a pillar and short crack - Pracatan. This was the first route at the crag.

From the northern end of the summit boulders a series of descent routes will bring you to a small cave formed by a large boulder resting on two others. Walk through this to find a steep slab on your right - AFS is on the lefthand end of the slab, and was climbed on toprope ("It's a long way to carry a drill").

Walking slightly down and further east will bring you to a small courtyard - this is the corner crack.

On the arete to the right is an incipient crack. A bouldery start to a hand crack and pinnacle. Up slab to tree belay.

A good little shady slab. The start is located about 30m left of the tourist track. Leave the track near the information sign. As of January 2016 the approach is a little overgrown and you'll have to push through light scrub. It's worth persevering though, and the climb itself is clean. Belay on shrubs and gear.

A strenuous off-width, in case you're into that sort of thing... At the same level as 'Another Roadside Attraction' and above 'Poultry in Motion', the obvious, leftwards leaning off-width. Place a high runner in the chimney, then up the outside into the off-width.

The body chimney with a chockstone, left of 'Armless'.

The awkward leaning corner crack immediately right of the tourist track. Finish up slabby arete. Walk off.

Start as for Lengthways Chinaman but keep going up the right-curving crack. Belay as for Blue Lights. Walk off.

Start at the crack 6m right of Blue Lights, on the other side of the same boulder. This is just left of Another Roadside Attraction. Climb crack for 4m and pike left onto mossy slab. Finish as for Blue Lights. DBB and walk off.

The obvious corner crack right of the tourist track. A good line.

Ugh. The crack three metres right of 'Another Roadside Attraction'. Gain the crack which is hard to get established in and then turns into a hideous off-width. Finish with a chest jam!

Start two metres right of 'Kate's Bush'. Up and right past the first bolt. Cross the face to the crack on the right, then up the slab past the second bolt.

Almost as long as the name. Start 15 metres right of 'Bad Luck Sir'. Up the right-hand corner with a no-hands rest halfway, then power up the strenuous crack to finish.

Just right of 'Arse Bandit' and the vegetated chimney. The wall with a thin start and a diagonal crack near the top.

On the left end of a large wall about 20 metres right of 'Arse Bandit'. Up the twin crack system with a bush at half height.

The crack downhill and 30 metres right of 'Barry the Radish' (50 metres left of and slightly uphill from 'Overnight Sensation'). Climb into the cave and left into the crack. Exit with difficulty onto the slab above.

A superb finger crack, with a bulging start. It is on the downhill side of a straight-sided boulder about 200 metres right from 'Another Roadside Attraction'.

Start five metres left of 'Blue Lights', just right of the obvious crack. Climb the thin crack. Step around to a corner then up an easy face to finish.

Sustained and varied. Start in the passage in the middle of the summit boulders. Bridge up to the first bolt and crimp your way past two more. Climb the crack to a small patform. Belay off White Rabbit's abseil station.

Walk through the passageway to a large oblique slab wedged across its eastern exit. Climb to the top of the slab. Step left onto the steep chimney wall and move up to the right of the huge jammed chockstone. Chimney easily to the summit.

A good route that should be on every Canberra beginner's hitlist. The start is located in the bowels of the earth. Scramble into the chimney just right of Roxely RIP. Climb the nice handcrack that widens until you emerge onto a sunny slab. Up past two bolts to Rap station. The 2nd edition of the granite guide mentioned a RHV past a bolt. This bolt is probably part of a finish to Midsummer Madness.

Start on the dirty slab below the southern side of the summit group of boulders. Up to a sloping ledge, right and onto upper slab and into an easy left leaning crack.

Start on the southern side of the summit group of boulders at a left leaning fist crack. Up the flake and diagonal crack. Move left along the ledge and up the slab to the summit. Down-climb and go to the pub.

The obvious chimney six metres right of 'Midsummer Madness'.

Start about 30 metres left of 'Sound as a Trout'. Up the dirty scoop and pull onto the slab above. Originally two bolts.

The blunt arete and slab 5m right of My Name is Luka. Can take a small cam. Rap anchor. Bolt replaced 2009.

Start 1m left of Easy Rider. The sharp seam to DBB. Continue up Easy Rider.

The obvious corner crack down and right from 'Milwaulkee Pig Iron' (at the same level and 10 metres left of 'My Generation') - it had repelled a number of attempts over the years. Finish up a slab to a bolt belay.

The short thin crack on a boulder 30 metres below 'My Generation'. Up the awkward thin crack to some hard slabby moves onto a ledge. Move right and up the easy hand crack.

Start on a boulder 50 metres below 'My Generation'. Climb up the dirty crack and slab without using the dead tree.

The brushed slab with two bolts four metres left of 'Return of the Marzipan Kid'. Take wires.

At the left end of the wall. Up the brushed groove and crack past a bolt. A fixed #3 RP was flogged, so take your own...

Commonly used as a descent scramble, but originally reported as a climb.

Start below a slightly cleaner section of rock about four metres left of 'Hey Jude'. One hard move at the start: up the wall for a few metres, then diagonally left to a flake above 'The Groove'. Follow the cleaned patches to the top.

The brushed slab right of 'Dear Prudence', with two bolts. Start on the large flake halfway up the wall.

Start at the corner 10 metres right of 'The Groove'. Up the corner and left across the scoop. Climb onto the large flake and move left to join 'The Groove'.

Start as for 'Tiptoe'. Up the easy corner, then up a steeper one to a ledge. Walk along this to the right and then up the slab as for 'Scarborough Fair'.

Takes the bulging wall with twin thin cracks to the right of 'Hey Jude', past one bolt to join 'Scarborough Fair'.

Highly recommended, the classic of the crag. Start 10 metres right and down from 'Hey Jude', at the obvious rightwards corner crack. Layback up the corner and either step left to avoid the roof (18) or grunt straight through (20). Follow the cracks to the ledge, then up the unprotected slab above to a double carrot bolt belay.

See description for 'Scarborough Fair'.

An aptly named route which is very bouldery. Start on a boulder below a short orange wall about 15 metres downhill from 'Scarborough Fair', through the hole. Use a long stick to clip a bolt and lunge up towards it. If you get this far, a groin stretching bridge onto the opposite boulder relieves the pressure on your fingers. Continue up past a peg and bolt to the top.

Good thin slab climbing up the cleaned strip to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Start on top of some blocks six metres to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Up the wall and flake to the ledge. Step up and right, and clip two bolts on the way to the top.

Exciting. Originally M4, the free version follows a slightly different line. Start in 'The Pits' proper, below the obvious lines about five metres right of 'Parole'. Subtle moves at half height lead to layaways up the left-hand line. Clip a bolt from the ledge, and up.

Start in 'The Pits' proper, right of Happy Piggyland. Up the crack, chimney past a bolt and squeeze onto the Knife Edge Boulder. Finish as for Holy Guacamole.

The loose chimney at the left-hand side of the roof split by an off-width.

Finishing in the far left corner (looking out) of this area, where you pop out from under the huge balanced boulder, is this small gem of a climb, requiring jamming and some constricted slab moves.

The thin corner and arete right of 'French Connections' with a bolt.