Routes in Oceania

The middle line, overtaken by blackberries and leaves at last sight. A slabby start, then progressively thinner.

A deceptively easy-looking rightwards-leaning crack just right of a pile of boulders forming a small cave.

The third crack from the left on 'five cracks wall'. Up the groove to the bulge then up the finger crack to the top. Tape recommended.

The fourth crack from the left on 'Five Cracks Wall' (a few metres right of 'Indelible Murtceps') with an overhanging start. Up past a tree to a chimney and hand crack.

Start in the corner to the right of 'Five Cracks Wall'. Up the chimney to a ledge. Continue to a chockstone then swing left.

The chimney right of 'Tears of Rage'.

The corner ramp with a crack just right of 'Elendil'.

The crack on the left wall of the large corner 10 metres right of 'Mordor'. Climb up the corner on the right, then back left into the crack and up. The direct start up the crack makes it even better, but a fair bit harder. Gear to blue camalot.

The chimney corner two metres right of 'Plastic Appearance', starting at a crack four metres right of the corner.

The hand crack through the small roof 5m right of Magnum Force. Harder, higher and better than it looks. Either finish on the ledge or continue up the off-width to the top.

A classic line. The widening crack on the Booroomba side of the outcrop with a hard start. Gear from #0.5 to #4 camalot.

A little painful. The hand crack through the roof at the northern (left) end.

The short off-width 10m right of 'For Better or Worse'.

A good finger crack about 20m right of 'For Better or Worse', although the tree at the start means it's not very sustained.

Up the flared chimney-corner to a small tree, then out the left-hand roof to the top.

Slices and minces better than the conventional model! Start 40 metres left of 'Friendly Frodo', on the same boulder. Climb the twin cracks, swinging into the right one to exit.

A fine hand crack, and a good warm-up for Blind Freddy and Faded Youth. Coordinates -35.5943, 148.96969. To find it, stop at the rock cairn 40m below the top of the walk up track and look to your right. You will see a yellow-tagged faint footpad, follow this for approx 80m on the same level and you will find the Live Injection boulder. (5m to the right of live injection is a gnarly-looking thin crack with 3 ancient wires embedded in it).

Keep following the yellow-tagged track right of 'Live Injection' for about 90m. Blind Freddy is the overhung corner crack, mostly hand jam size. Coordinates -35.59474, 148.96907.

Continue diagonally right and uphill from 'Blind Freddy' on the yellow-tagged track for around 190m. Faded Youth is the thin hand and finger crack splitting the boulder. Coordinates -35.59607 148.96844.

On the main crag at the far right, 25 metres right of 'Andromeda', below a leftwards sloping crack.

1. 18 metres - Up the crack, move left and up to a sloping ledge.

2. 22 metres - Move right along the ledge, then up the slab.

Now chossy. Start 45 metres right of 'Deep Space' at a groove.

1. 20 metres - Crux. Climb the groove to a tree.

2. 26 metres - Up the cracks to a ledge, left to a mossy slab and up to bushes.

3. 44 metres - Up the easy cracks on the right.

Start 10 metres left of 'Andromeda'.

1. 15 metres - Crux. Up the leftwards leaning crack, then traverse right to a tree. Follow this and belay on it further up.

2. 42 metres - Right up the slab to join 'Deep Space'.

Worthless but scary! Start 10 metres right of 'Deep Space'. Up the wall to a nutless bolt, then straight past this to a break. Traverse left and easily up the unprotected slab to the second belay on 'Deep Space'.

Start as for Deep Space. Initially up the pinnacle and at 5m take the right-hand crack straight up. After the horizontal break go straight up the slab past a couple of carrot bolts. Another carrot then rejoin Deep Space at the steep headwall before the ledge.

Add the final pitch of Sickle to take you to the top.

A good second pitch. Start at a flake pinnacle at the lowest point of the cliff.

1. 26 metres - Climb the pinnacle and the crack above the apex, moving left to belay on top of a flake.

2. 34 metres - Straight up the unprotected slab to a sloping ramp. Right along the ramp and up a short wall to belay on the ledge.

3. 30 metres - Up the slab above by a shallow groove.

The first two pitches of 'Deep Space', followed by the last pitch of 'Sickle'.

Start at the crack four metres right of Deep Space. Up this and beyond to a horizontal weakness. Traverse left to first belay on Deep Space.

The diagonal thin crack a few metres left of Deep Space. Tenuous undercling slabbing with increasing difficulty, finishing at the first belay on 'Deep Space'.

"A silly route but quite good". Start at a fused corner 20m left of 'Deep Space'.

1. 35 metres - Boulder the start, then more easily up the the dark water streak. Belay below a short steep wall.

2. 3 metres - A one move wonder up the wall.

3. 30 metres - Up the lovely grade 17 slab just right of the finish of 'Sickle'.

Start 3m left of 'Romantic Friction' and just right of 'Sickle'. Up the slab past four bolts. At the flake slot in a nut and either step left to continue up 'Sickle', or continue up 'East Coast of South America' to rap point.

Very thin for the first three metres and then you are away. Big holds at the top compensate for the lichen.

Start 3m left of 'On the Way to the Sky'. Smear up the thin wall past four bolts then left to join 'East Coast of South America'. Up it for a few metres to rap station. A combination with 'Icy Universe' is a really good route up the cliff.

An excellent multipitch at the grade. The rightwards curving crack under the overlap. Start in the corner at the left end of the slabs.

1. 12 metres - Climb the left-hand (or the easier right-hand) chimney to the top of the huge block.

2. 30 metres - Step off the block and climb the crack to a sitting stance.

3. 15 metres - Constricted moves over the water runnel to a bush belay.

4. 23 metres - Move back left past the bush for a few metres, then pull onto the wall above, and delicately along the thin diagonal to gain the handcrack (phew!). Cruise to the top.

Climbs the overlap and the slab to the left of the final pitch of 'Sickle'. Start off the spike left of the 'Sickle' belay. Two bolts.

From the top of 'Mel and Kim Go Boxing' continue delicately up the flake below and right of 'Sickle' to DBB. Rap off or traverse right to join 'Deep Space'.

Climbs the line of most resistence around In City Dreams. The direct start is described - below a bolt about 5m right of In City Dreams - but it's also possible to start as for ICD to its second bolt.

1. 35m (22) Fingery climbing past a bolt and more easily up to the second bolt on ICD. Traverse right 7m to another bolt. Straight up to the 3rd bolt on ICD. Continue straight up to the "ledge". Dodgy belay on small gear.

2. 25m (21) Climb out right to a bolt. Up to the lichenous corner with a rusty peg. Hard moves to get established. DBB shared with ICD.

A superb slab on the grippy rock up and left of 'Sickle'. Start below the shiny bolt (shared with CBaC). Pad up to clip it, step down then trend right along easy slab groove past the second and third bolts. Step right to a line of good holds. Up those to a stance (small gear). Straight up and past the final bolt to DBB below blocks at the top.

Another quality slab. Start as for ICD directly below the first bolt. Pad up past 3 bolts before drifting right to the 4th bolt on ICD. Finish up ICD.

danger

Start below the water streak to the left of 'Corned Beef and Cabbages'. Cruise straight up (unprotected).

Up the curving corner, step right, then up the crack.

Very dirty. The thin, sword-grass infested crack up the slab a little left of 'Unknown Pleasures'. Walk up the slab to belay.

You'll learn that brushed slabs revert to lichen in 30 years. The slab five metres left of 'Schoolgirl Lingerie'.

Interesting wall climbing on the far side of a large boulder 40 metres to the left of the main cliff. Climb the right-hand cleaned strip past a bolt.

The brushed wall three metres left of 'Future Tense'. Up the wall with RPs for protection and a superfluous bolt with no hanger.

On a large group of boulders 300 metres left of the main crag.

Start above the huge overhanging boulder. Up the leftwards sloping ramp, then follow the crack to the top.

30 meters to the right of the main buttress, at about the same level are a pair of stacked boulders with a sizable tree growing out from between them. On the right side of this is a short finger crack. Move left below the top boulder to belay from the tree.

The corner crack on the right side of the buttress.

The best line at 'The Battlements'. The obvious hand crack forming the left of the two cracks in the middle of the wall. Up through the roof and bulges, easing off near the top.

A bouldery start below an obvious bowl, then easily to a bolt with more edging to the top.

Start five metres left of 'Hollywood Bowl'. Up past a bolt.

The friable wall and arete above the cave, about 20 metres left of 'Mind Monkey'. Start under a bolt and trend right after the second bolt to a shorter wall.

Start as for 'Flowers and Fruit'. Up the ramp and diagonal crack, traversing right around the arete to a jug and then up.

The obvious crack in the left wall of the buttress, two metres left of 'Greenland'.

The enjoyable crack and groove starting below and four metres left of 'Penny'.

Worth the effort to see the view. Start on the left side of the easy-angle slab. Take the short slab and crack to the right arete, then up this to the top. There is now a triple bolt belay/rap station.

The groove-ramp on the right side of the first large boulder seen as you stroll down the path; move right at the top. A rap station replaces the traditional leap across to the top of 'Penny'.

The very short and difficult leftward diagonal crack opposite 'Atom Blaster'.

The off-width crack in the vertical wall on the western side of the outcrop.

The same crack as 'Darkling' on the other side of the boulder.

A chimney "located in the heart of the outcrop" below 'Sour Grapes'.

Just left of the top pitch of UD Start from half height, accessed stepping right from zen

A hard and unpleasant eliminate. Start in the gully left of 'Ebony Quill'.

1. 18 metres - The diagonal line to a stance, then straight up the crack to a ledge.

2. 8 metres - Climb the corner.

About five metres right, with a marked start hidden behind a flake, is a narrowing corner crack with a very hard move to finish.

Obscure. "The squeeze chimney about 20 metres left of 'Norm's Nees', done in two pitches, moving right to avoid the overhang."

This is the closest thing that I've found, although why you would split it into 2 pitches is beyond me. I may have to climb it.

Up the delightful corner crack about 20 metres right of 'Ebony Quill', then balancy moves to a single bolt belay.

The arete with two bolts about 15 metres left of 'Norm's Nees'.

Start five metres left of 'Norm's Nees'. Up the slabby arete past two bolts to some cam placements. Traverse left to finish.

Pretty grim. The rightwards leaning chimney with a big leaning block above.

The arete just right of 'Norm's Nees' with one bolt. Take some medium sized cams.

danger

The unprotected and exposed slab on the north face of the balanced boulder above the start of 'Norm's Nees'. Take a rope to get off.

You can place an anchor at the start that might keep you off the ground.

It gets more friable as it goes, and is much dodgier than it looks from the bottom. Seriously recommend TR inspection

The wall on a boulder 10 metres uphill from 'The Demon Explores the Sea'. Up past two bolts, exiting using the crack on the left and up the slab to belay.

The large chimney left of Vertigo. Start 10 metres in, and trend left to meet up with a crack near the top.

Finally freed but still popular as an aid climb, hence double bolts at the top of the wall. The impressive overhanging crack on the valley side. Up the crack to the fork and take the right-hand crack to the top. Also popular as a commercial abseiling site.

Step off a boulder just left of 'Hog Wall' proper and clip the first bolt, then up the face and crack past another bolt. Trad belay.

The left-hand line on the metallic 'Hog Wall'. A bouldery start, then hard moves past a bolt followed by easier climbing past another to the top. Trad belay.

Good granite wall climbing up the central line on 'Hog Wall'. Up the brushed wall past two bolts. Trad belay.

No ethics police, but plenty of bolts! Run it out up the wall two metres right of 'Porky Boys' past three bolts. Trad belay.

Up the right-hand cleaned strip on 'Hog Wall', clipping a bolt. Trad belay.

The chimney above the path between 'Pigs on the Wing' and 'Swine Fever'.

The mossy crack a few metres right of 'Manic Depression'. Done in two pitches.

The imposing off-width corner, just right of 'Flying Legal', which overhangs at the top.

Good, sustained face climbing. Start on the arete 5m right and around the corner from 'Leaning Tower'. Climb the wall past two bolts to a jug-flake. Up the flake and arete to the top.

An enjoyable start but poorly protected at the top.

From back when kids were tough. The horrendous chimney five metres right of 'Child's Play', and just left of 'Leaning Tower', originally done in two pitches.

A crack and corner with a hard start. Up the crack and corner, descend into the chimney and finish as for 'Kid's Stuff'. First climbed in two pitches.

Start as for 'Games on the Freeway'. Much better and more direct than the original. Up the crack to the little saddle then left up the slight groove and arete with "subtle" RP placements.

Start five metres right of Inside Straight at a crack and corner, initially overhanging. Up the crack for about five metres until an awkward move can be made to clip a bolt on the left wall. Continue leftwards up the wall (crux) to a ledge. Move up to a short crack on the left then up to a horizontal break and easily to the top.

The classic off-width at the left end of the wall.

A leftwards leaning fist-and-wider crack. From 'Leaning Tower' walk downhill and slightly left (as you face the valley) for 20m, then zig back right for 20m.

Start: in the open cave facing the valley, at the left end of the sector. Climb the crack which is formed by a slab and the roof.

Walk up the rather slick slab. Start: opposite 'Rentokill Surprise'.

The slab right of 'Ace High'.

Originally a stick and RP aid problem up the left leaning crack which joins 'Easy Wind'. It is now free with the aid of a chipped foothold, but the bouldery start is still protected in the same manner.

The best climb at 'Legoland'. The obvious rightward diagonal crack on the face right of Pas de Deux. Move off left to belay at the Pas de Deux anchor.

As for Easy Wind and keep heading right under the overlap. A very good continuation in the same style.

Near the California Dreaming passage is a corner with a leftward leaning crack. Step off the boulder and climb the crack to a tree belay as for California Dreaming.

One of the better, if typically short, cracks at 'Legoland'. The obvious crack in the right (western) wall of the passage into the atrium. Walk right and scramble to descend.

Cheap, nasty and totally worthless. The seam and crack on the steep side of the passage into the atrium, opposite 'California Dreaming'. Protect with cams in the horizontal break.

The finger then fist crack 4m right of Pasadena, on the same boulder.

A short wall and crack on balanced boulders visible behind Silver Spoon, 15m off the path.

A face climb up the thinning crack on the north-east side of an isolated boulder. The boulder is a couple of metres left of the main track, half way between the Hog Wall track and the northern entrance to the Atrium.