Routes in Oceania

Start eight metres right of 'Bile' at the right-hand clean strip. Place some wires from the walk down track then scramble down a few metres and boulder out the start. Continue up the wall above.

Quite good climbing starting at the block three metres right of 'Bile'. Onto the block and up the wall above passing a horizontal break, and keeping out of 'Bile'.

The obvious steep, jagged crack, which often seeps green liquid. First pitch is now endowed with a thicket of teatree partway up, which will likely detract from the whole experience.

1. 22 metres - Up the crack, with a difficult move to surmount the roof. Continue up the wide crack above. Scramble up to beneath a wall split by two left trending cracks.

2. 13 metres - Move onto the ledge and then up the cracks.

A fun little route which finishes at the lookout. Previously top-roped by every man and his dog. Start on the big ledge 10 metres left of the top pitch of 'Bile', under a bulging wall. Up a short slab, reach up right and pull around the bulge to the flake, and up the poorly protected wall to the top.

This climb is to your left and around a corner as you are walking downhill - you'll probably walk past it. It is 40m uphill from Bile. Start at the flake at the right end of the wall. Up the desperate flake then up the wall past a bolt, during the long and epic voyage to the top.

Start 10 metres left of 'Random Route' on a ledge six metres up. Climb the wall to some wire placements, then awkward moves to the bolt. Pass this with difficult, then up the short diagonal crack.

An obvious, marked corner with a bulging right wall, when walking down left from 'Bile'. The name says it all.

1. 20 metres - Up the short corner, follow the ramp leftwards to a vertical corner.

2. 12 metres - Climb the corner crack to a ledge.

3. 20 metres - Walk right along the ledge for about five metres and then follow a weakness to a tree belay.

4. 12 metres - Traverse left around the nose, and finish up the crack.

A good alternative second pitch is the steep corner crack four metres to the right.

The direct finish!

Harder and slightly more direct. Start after pitch two of 'Random Route'.

1. 20 metres - Move up and left onto a ledge, then up the corner to a belay at some blocks.

2. 12 metres - Move left and up the short yellow wall and then finish as for Random Route.

Start about four metres left of the second pitch of 'Random Route' at an obvious corner. Up the corner past a bolt and continue up to a short crack. Move left to a second bolt and up the water-streaked wall to an overhang and thread runner. Pull onto the ledge and traverse left to belay.

A steep finish which is a considerable improvement on the original. Instead of traversing left below the overhang, continue straight up past a fixed wire and two bolts. Move left and up the arete after the second bolt.

A good companion route to 'Morning Thunder'. The belay shimmers 10 metres over the horizon. Start three metres right of 'Random Route' in a corner to the right of a loose column. Up the blocky corner, then more difficult moves up the wall above following the incipient cracks. Move right at the top (or harder, straight up) and then easy moves up the slab.

Start on a bushy ledge five metres right of 'Mirage'. Up a brushed streak with two bolts; take some small wires and RPs.

A mediocre traverse. Start five metres left of 'Pelican Punch'.

1. 20 metres - Climb the crack, moving right to a block belay.

2. 24 metres - Move down to the right, then traverse across a steep lichenous wall. Climb a slab and crack on the right to belay on 'Singularity'.

3. 36 metres - Climb a slab on the right to a ledge and continue right beneath the overhang to finish on a ramp. Walk off right into 'Cocker's Gully'.

The prominent crack line on the wall left of the first pitch of 'Hurricane Cracks'. Up the wide flake crack then a ramp to a diagonal line which takes you to a ledge on 'Hurricane Cracks'.

The thin bolted wall left of 'Pelican Punch'. Two bolts on the first wall, and two on the top wall.

Popular, with an excellent second pitch. Start at a short slab eight metres right of 'Eavesdropper'.

1. 35 metres - Up the slab and corner (crux) to a ledge. Climb a dirty wall and a ramp trending left to the huge bushy ledge.

2. 20 metres - A fine wall. Ascends the flaky crack in the centre of the wall. It is awkward to start but good holds then appear.

Uninspiring and dirty in appearance, but the climbing isn't too bad. Start 12 metres to the right of 'Hurricane Cracks'.

1. 30 metres - Up the crack and slab. Continue up the off-width corner, moving right at half height and belay beneath the overhang.

2. 22 metres - Climb a corner and the narrow exposed chimney.

Great climbing and position. Start one metre right of 'Beau Temps'. Clip the first bolt on 'Beau Temps', move up and right across the flake to a stance on the arete (#4 Friend). Up the arete past two bolts and a peg.

An excellent climb on a spectacular wall. Start at the right hand side of the ledge. Climb past three bolts to a horizontal break, move right and up to another bolt. Follow the thin crack (crux) through the overlap, then go for the top.

Another outstanding sustained wall. A hard start three metres right of 'Morning Thunder'. Climb up to a bolt then move right and up to a short crack. Continue up the wall moving left at the top to belay on the same ledge as 'Morning Thunder'.

Brilliant groove/crack to the right of 'Hurricane Cracks P2'. Up the crack for a few metres then step right into the thin V-alcove. Up the groove/crack above, either moving right near the top or pushing straight through.

Start on the brushed wall four metres left of 'Hurricane Cracks P2'. Up past the peg and then directly to the top.

Worthless. Start as for 'Cyclone Chimney'. Climb the right edge of the chimney via some incipient cracks, kicking off the odd loose block as you go.

The chimney at the left edge of the Hurricane Cracks wall. Climb the chimney to a roof at 12 metres. Exit on the left and finish up the crack in the wall above.

The thin brushed wall right of 'Singularity' with four bolts. A dirty finish leads to a bolt belay on a mossy ledge. Rap off.

Aptly named and a fine companion to other routes in the vicinity. Start at the lichenous pillar right of 'Singularity'. Up the pillar and flakes before moving right across the moss to a corner. Up this and more moss to a large bushy ledge.

Another moss and dirt special. Start at an obvious corner crack 20 metres to the right of and below 'Singularity'. The first pitch is worthwhile.

1. 35 metres - Up a corner for seven metres and exit left up a thin crack, over a bulge and continue up to a large ledge and then move left to a flake pinnacle.

2. 28 metres - Up the pinnacle and wall, before moving left to belay beneath an overhanging chimney.

3. 12 metres - Climb to a tree, then grovel desperately up the gross thrutch chimney.

Very dirty. The crack three metres to the right of 'Dratsab'. Climb the crack to a ledge, up left to another crack and then leftwards up a diagonal crack. Done in two pitches.

Start (marked) two metres right of 'Bluetongue' in a niche. Up the open corner, right then back left up a sloping ramp and corner to a ledge. Up the V-split cracks to finish. Done in two pitches.

The obvious brushed line left of 'Derision'. A hard start leads to sustained slab climbing past two bolts. Follow the brushed line left to a third bolt and up past this on flakes. Scramble up the choss to belay.

The dirty crack 30 metres right of 'Felix'. Climb the corner crack, scramble up the choss, then step right into a crack. Originally two pitches.

The curving chimney eight metres right of 'Derision'.

1. 15 metres - Up the chimney and filth, onto the left arete and follow this to join 'Derision'.

2. 35 metres - Up 'Derision' and then up the left-hand of two cracks. Climb the crack behind the tree then diagonally right.

More choss. The obvious chimney two metres right of 'Flying Tortoise'.

1. 25 metres - Up the chimneys and then the vegetated ramp and wall to a ledge.

2. 20 metres - Down the ledge, traverse left to crack. Up the cracks and corner.

"Horrible and harder than 17 for a human being." - Chris Larque. The obvious corner crack and chimney at the bottom of 'Cocker's Gully' (50 metres right of 'Flying Tortoise').

1. 20 metres - Up the crack and chimney and around the overhang.

2. 30 metres - Scramble up a short wall, then left up a split rock.

Another poxy gully route. Start four metres right of 'The Bleeder'. Up the buttress to a platform, into the gully, then right and over the boulder. Up to a large ledge and finish up the crack on the left.

Start at the gully right of 'Red Strides Gully'. Climb the groove in the right wall.

Start beneath the clean line five metres left of 'Passionfruit Crack'. A bouldery start leads to a crack. Up this, through the bulge, and up the wall above.

Between 'Fleabag' and 'Tea Bag' with one bolt and RP placements.

White fleapowder has cleaned up the originally friable holds and dirt - quite popular and well worthwhile. Climb the brushed wall with three bolts about three metres left of 'Passionfruit Crack'. Take some RPs and wires.

The garbage gully 20 metres below and right of 'Red Strides Gully'. Walk up the gully with a bit of chimneying at the top for variety.

No Bolts! The thin crack and flake just right of 'Passionfruit Crack'. Getting to the first protection is somewhat perilous.

Technical and fingery climbing on a deceptive wall. Takes the brushed waterstreak 10 metres right of 'Scumbag'. Up the flake to a bolt. Climb past this and a couple of wire placements to a second bolt and the crux. Struggle up this into the easy groove and up to a tree belay.

Fairly sustained with a hard finish up into the groove. Start about four metres right of 'Candy Samples' at the incipient corner. Thin moves up the slab to the flake then continue up the wall past three bolts into the easy groove. Walk up this to the top and a tree belay.

The sharp vertical crack with a small roof at half height.

The prominent sweeping crack four metres left of Paranoid. Start left of the crack and climb to the cave. Gymnastically out then continue traversing right.

The deep cleft 20 metres left of 'Bile' (and above the 'Paranoid' boulder). The only difficulty is surmounting the dirt and chockstones.

1. 20 metres - Climb the chimney passing the chockstone on the left. Step left then up a large flake to a platform on the right.

2. 26 metres - Climb the scrub above, occasionally moving back onto rock.

1. 24 metres - climb the chimney, move left and up to the roof, left under this and up three metres to belay.

2. 40 metres - Up right and into the gully which is followed to the top.

The obvious dogleg crack six metres left of 'Hangover'.

More of a bushwalk than a climb. Start at a short crack 20 metres left of 'Vinegar Stroke'.

1. 20 metres - Up the crack then walk right to an easy angled crack and climb this to a tree.

2. 10 metres - Traverse right around the boulder then move left up a tight groove.

3. 15 metres - Up the crack and chimney on the right to a ledge.

4. 25 metres - Easy walking for eight metres then up a slab to finish near the lookout.

A considerable improvement on the original.

4b. 30 metres - Walk left for 10 metres along a ledge. Climb the wall until able to move left into a corner then up this to a ledge. 5b. 6 metres - Up either the chimney or crack above.

Start 15 metres left of 'Recompense' at a short corner.

1. 25 metres - Up the corner, right to a boulder and climb the crack.

2. 15 metres - Crux. Climb the wall, traverse right then up to a cave belay.

3. 30 metres - Climb the corners to the right (as for 'Recompense Variant Finish')

This and the following climbs can be accessed by continuing past 'Plutarch' to where the track descends steeply beneath an orange wall. Turn right and scramble uphill until you reach a left facing black corner with an orange wall on the right.

Thin and technical bridging straight up the obvious corner.

Originally done with a large cairn (pyramid) and stick to avoid the start, as well as a rest on the third bolt. Start five metres right of Apparitions of a Film Star, below the steep orange wall. The first two bolts are badly positioned. Climb past the first bolt with minor difficulty, then cruise to the top.

Originally called Tranquility, but Phil decided this wasn't his style. Start at a crack four metres left of 'Apparitions of a Film Star'. Onto the flake pinnacle then up the crack.

The obvious line on the well hidden wall about 20 metres above the top of 'Apparitions of a Film Star' (the start is marked). Up the flake-formed crack then traverse right to a short curving crack which leads to a mantle and slab to finish.

A good introduction to slab climbing. Climbs the slabs and grooves bordering the right-hand end of the northern slabs. Start at a short, steep black slab just left of a damp overhang where the walking track rises after skirting below 'The Terrace'.

1. 30m - Up the slab (crux) to a ledge. Pull over the bulge and up the easy slabby corner. Surmount the overlap and traverse right and up to belay at the left end of 'The Terrace'.

2. 40m - Walk right about 7m then climb over blocks to a prominent groove. Climb the groove, which is awkward near the top, step left and up a short V-corner. Continue up blocks and slabs to belay on a comfortable triangular ledge on the right.

3. 30m - Move left and climb the crack, thin seam and slabs to bushy ledge. Tree belay. A further 60 metres of easy slabs leads to the top of the buttress.

Some good, easy and exposed climbing along a rightwards traverse. Starts at the top of Denethor P2. To get there, either climb Denethor P1 and P2 or carefully walk 10m left of Echidna and then climb Denethor P2 (the easy-angled groove).

1. 24 metres - Climb the groove and wall above to a stance in the corner on the right.

2. 10 metres - Climb the lichenous wall on the right, and then traverse right to an airy stance.

3. 18 metres - Continue right along the ledge past a flake to a vertical band of rock of fine texture.

4. 20 metres - Delightful, easy climbing up the band of rock. Continue up to a ledge with a corner belay.

5. 20 metres - Climb up the corner and trend right to easy slabs.

Start at the left-hand edge of 'The Terrace', about 15m left of Echidna. Head left and climb a shallow right-facing corner then move slightly right (crux - unprotected) and climb a shallow left-facing corner. Trend towards, then climb, a shallow groove for a few metres. At the lichen move right to finish up 'Denethor'. Can be top-roped from Denethor.

Start at the left-hand edge of 'The Terrace', about 15m left of Echidna.

Just another contrived slab. Arrang protection as for 'Peregrine' at the top of the juggy brown slab, then down-climb to the start of the white streak. (If top-roping head straight up a short vertical groove to the white streak.) Follow the white streak to a 10cm wide curving ledge at 27m (bolt as for 'Peregrine'). Continue up 'Peregrine'.

Start at the left-hand edge of 'The Terrace', about 15m left of Echidna.

1. 45m - head left as for 'Counterbalance' and up to the top of the juggy brown slab (about 20m). Head straight up the wall on small rounded edges to a 10cm wide curving ledge at 29m and a bolt (replacing a spike that fell off sometime in the 30 years after the first ascent). Climb a further 15m to a corner. Climb the corner and belay near bushes.

2. 25m - Up the slab to a right-facing corner (about three metres right of the big flake on the top pitch of 'Balance'). Continue to the top.

Slab climbing that is 'a little more serious' than 'Denathor' due to the scarce (but solid) protection on the second pitch. Start as for 'Denethor' (or skip the first pitch and start at the left-hand edge of 'The Terrace', about 15m left of Echidna).

1. 30m - Climb the short, hard slab, bulge and slabby corner above (as for 'Denethor) but instead of sticking right in the corner, head straight up the slab above a small overlap. Belay at the flake or on the ledge to the right.

2. 45m - Up the juggy brown slab trending left to where the holds vanish, make a delicate move left to a small ledge. Up leftwards for 7m to a scooped recess. Follow shallow right-facing curving corners diagonally up and leftwards to double bolt belay next to a pointed block (shared with 'Steele Breeze' and 'Metal Fatigue').

3. 47m - Climb the slab to the highest corner on the right side of the overlap. Up the short corner (possible to belay here), move right over blocks then trend right up the easy slabs to belay on a large bushy ledge.

A rising traverse of 'The Northern Slabs' from right to left, with some pleasant slab climbing on the second and third pitches. The second pitch is scarier to follow than to lead.

1. 12m - Start as for 'Denethor'. Up the short black slab to a ledge belay.

2. 40m - Delicately left along the vanishing ledge past the bolt on Balance (first crux) to the corner (gear). Continue left along the vanishing ledge (second crux), past a bolt (Stele Breeze), then easier climbing along more ledges to DBB on the 'Equilibrium' ledge.

3. 40m - Left along the ledge then up a few metres when it vanishes (as for 'Equilibrium'). Continue left to the first belay for 'Just in Passing' (V-shaped ledge?) then diagonally left and up (third crux) to belay under an overlap (shared with 'Bird of Prey').

4. 25m - Left under the overlap and up to a 15cm ledge, then left around a small nose to a short corner. Climb the corner to the higher slab then diagonally left to trad belay on the ledge (shared with 'Sunstroke' P3).

5. 40m - Climb the last pitch of 'Sunstroke'.

Start three metres left of 'Denethor'.

1. 38m - Hard moves up the short black slab (crux) to a comfortable ledge at 8m. Traverse left until below the bolt then straight up to a bulge. (The first ascent traversed right here to easier ground, then up and back left to the belay). Straight up the bulge to the ledge then easily traverse left to double bolt belay.

2. 48m - Diagonally right to join 'Counterbalance' at the top of the juggy brown slab. Make a delicate step left (as for Counterbalance) then straight up, passing a thin curving ledge. Trad belay on blocks at the top of the slab. (It's also possible to head left at the thin curving ledge and use the DBB of 'Counterbalance' et al.)

3. 40m - Climb over blocks and ledges to a short corner. Up this to the prominent large flake. Undercling rightwards then up the edge. Trend right up the easy slab. Tree belay on ledge.

danger

Straight up the slab six metres left of the original (at marked start), to the second belay. The first ascent saw a 12 metre slide. In fact most of this portion of slab has been climbed as variant starts. Unprotected.

The catch-cry "if it's got a runner it's not bold” applies to both pitches, with P1 in particular having ankle-breaking potential without the retro bolts. Start as for 'Metal Fatigue'. With Roark's agreement bolts were placed on P1 to protect against a ground fall, however these were subsequently removed.

1. 45m (20) - Up past the two flakes, then up on scoops. Before you reach the corner traverse left past a bolt (as for 'Solantic') to DBB as for 'Equilibrium'.

2. 40m (20) - Spot the bolt runner on the skyline at about 2 o'clock. Diagonally right for 10m to a small area of broken rock. Continue to the bolt runner (placed on lead by Rick McGregor on the second ascent). Straight up left of the white water streak (RPs at half height) to easy ground. Diagonally right to double bolt belay on a broken ledge shared with 'Metal Fatigue' and 'Counterbalance'.

3. 45m - as for 'Metal Fatigue'.

A fine direct slab. Start about 12 metres left of 'Balance' beneath two thin flakes.

1. 45m - Up past the flakes, then trend slightly right (see if you can spot 3 bolt-holes from the bolting spat of the 2010s) to the base of a prominent corner (runners). Exit left from the top of this, then over a bulge to a scoop and double bolt belay as for Balance.

2. 45m - Straight up the brown slab behind the belay past 2 bolts, then more easily up the slab just right of the white water streak, passing another bolt. Double bolt belay on broken ledge shared with Counterbalance and Stele Breeze. John and Ray fatigued in 2015 allowing the additional metal, making the route now protected against ledge falls.

3. 45m - Directly up the fine brown slab, and finish as for 'Balance'. Alternatively (40m): diagonally left up the slab to join the last pitch of Equilibrium at the overlap.

Two great pitches up 'The Northern Slabs'. Climb the first pitch of 'Metal Fatigue' and then traverse left to join the second pitch of 'Stele Breeze' at the bolt.

danger

Up the unprotected slab 3m left of 'Stele Breeze' at lighter coloured rock where it appears a large narrow flake has fallen off. Originally onsight soloed to 'allay boredom'! May be possible to top-rope with a long sling on the top bolt of 'Stele Breeze' P1.

Sustained climbing on small sharp edges up the light coloured rock for at least 15m before the angle eases, then trend left to eventually join the 'Solantic' traverse. DBB on the ledge as for Equilibrium.

The first five metres is the crux, and may be impossible as the critical dinner-plate-sized mantleshelf flake peeled off sometime after the 2003 fires. The first pitch starts under the black slab six metres left of 'Stele Breeze'. The second pitch is still climable and can be toproped from a trad belay mid-way between Counterbalance and Equilibrium.

1. 45m (22+) - Straight up to join 'Solantic' and 'Stele Breeze' then left to DBB on the 'Equilibrium' ledge. Leave your rack with your second.

2. 40m (17) - Move right for 3 to 4 metres, find the nut placement that is the only pro, then straight up the slab just right of the dark brown water stain. The climbing eases off after 30m.

danger

Just another unprotected slab route to fill in the space. Start off some big flakes about 7m left of 'Rock Lobster' and 8m right of 'Tip Stripper'. It was inspected on top-rope before the first (solo) ascent.

Climb the slab above the large flake to the obvious scoops in the steep wall. Up the wall to easier ground then up, right of the lichen, to join Solantic near the belay.

Another gap filler, but with a bolt for a bit of variety. Up the slab then the steep wall left of the bolt (crux), over the bulge to easier ground. Can be top-roped from the Equilibrium belay.

danger

Start about 6m left of 'Tip Stripper' and 7m right of 'Equilibrium Direct Start'. The line is about 4m right of a thin light brown water mark. Climb the slab to the break then up the steep wall (diabolical unprotected crux) to easier ground after a few metres. Can be top-roped from the Equilibrium belay.

danger

A hard and better variation, with delicate friction climbing but no protection. Start 4m right and up from the original start of Equilibrium, on the top of a large flake. Climb the shallow groove moving right to the corner (crux) (there was once a poor branch runner here, but the tree has succumbed). Thin climbing to the break, then move left to the first light brown water streak. Up this to join Equilibrium at the traverse ledge. If you're on top-rope you can continue up the slab and traverse to the belay higher up.

Quality climbing and one of the more popular routes in the area. The start is marked with a faint "E" (no longer visible as of 2017) and is located approximately 40m left of Denethor. This is around 10m right of Sunstroke.

1. 50m (15*) A rope stretcher. Climb the left slainting groove for approximately 20m. Traverse right to sloping ledge and long break (cams). Head up the slab above to DBB rap station.

2. 35m (17**) The money pitch. Traverse left and up to first bolt. Directly up to vertical break and 2nd bolt. Keep padding away to tree belay.

3. 28m - Climb right along the overlap until you reach a wide crack. Up this to the slab above, and continue to the next overlap.

4. 24m - Continue right along the slab to the corner then climb the overlap. This is now easier following the demise of an enormous flake. Move diagonally right on the higher slab to a short corner. Up this to tree belay. Walk off.

Various alternative finishes are possible from the top of P2: traverse right to join 'Counterbalance' or 'Balance'; traverse down and left to join 'Solantic'; or climb 'Grandad's Big Day Out'.

Rebolted 2011.

danger

An unprotected variant of the second pitch of 'Equilibrium'. There are almost no handholds and it’s an enjoyable exercise in smearing if you top-rope it from somewhere between Counterbalance and Equilibrium.

Climb the brown slab directly above the belay, moving right (or left) to avoid the lichen when the slab eases off.

Entropy was the result of Chris Largue not spotting the bolt when he first set off to climb Equilibrium! To pacify his whingeing seconds (in those days the belay was a single piton) he taped a sling over a rounded knob using tape from the handle of his hammer (the knob would probably hold a falling mouse).

It's harder than Equilibrium and unprotected unless you have really really sticky tape.

Named because of the slide past the bolt on the first attempt. The first pitch is contrived, but the second is a fine direct slab climb. Start beneath a black slab midway between 'Equilibrium' and 'Sunstroke'.

1. 50m - Up the slab to a recess at 12m, over a bulge then up the slab to join the Equilibrium groove above the point where Equilibrium traverses right. Up the groove to a bolt. Step right and up three metres to a short diagonal crack. Continue diagonally right to climb a vertical break then step left at the top for a semi-hanging belay on cams and nuts at roughly the same level as Equilibrium's first belay.

2. 35m - Straight up slab above, passing a bolt. Belay at the overlap as for 'Equilibrium' P2. Finish as for 'Equilibrium'.

An easy, well-protected popular classic. Climbed on a searing summer's day, it was the first climb done on 'The Northern Slabs', taking the line of least resistance. Start at a slanting crack eight metres left of 'Equilibrium'.

1. 40m - Rightwards up the crack, then follow the groove leftwards to a sloping ledge. Belay at some wedged blocks.

2. 20m - Doddle leftwards up the groove to a belay in the corner.

3. 25m - Bridge and layback up the short corner, then left and up the steepening groove. Continue to a ledge and belay on the right.

4. 35m - Up the twin grooves to a large terrace covered with loose rock.

This is often run together into two pitches (1/2, 3/4) rather than four. If you love slabs it's also possible to combine P2 and P3 by slabbing up as for Ephemeros, avoiding the short corner on P3.

2b. 20m - From the first belay, climb the groove for six metres and traverse right to a parallel crack; climb this and the large blocks to a good stance.

3b. 25m - Move left across the slab, back to the main groove and third belay.

Just what Booroomba needs - another route on 'The Northern Slabs'. Takes a fairly direct line between 'Sunstroke' and 'Bird of Prey'.

Exposed friction climbing at its best. Start 15m left of 'Sunstroke' on or just to the left of a flake resting against the slab.

1. 30m - Technical climbing up and left for 8m, step right to a small ledge at 14m, then easier climbing straight up to belay as for 'Sunstroke'.

2. 28m - danger - superb but unprotected. Move right over blocky ground then left up a short steep ramp. Gather your courage, step onto the slab then straight up to belay at the overlap. Finish up 'Solantic', 'Hands Free', 'Tachyon', or 'Equilibrium'.

Quite good, similar to Solantic. Start at the bottom of the small corner four metres up and left of Bird of Prey.

1. 25 Metres - Up the corner, step left onto the slab, then trend righwards up this to the first Sunstroke belay.

2. 35 metres - A rising traverse right along the obvious weakness for 15 metres, then across and slightly down to the Equilibrium ledge.

3. 30 metres - Crux. Move right and up to the bolt (as for the second pitch of Stele Breeze), then traverse delicately across the white water streak. Move down and right to the second Balance belay (a recess with a peg).

4. 20 metres - Traverse rightwards straight across the slab to a finish on the Denethor ledge.

A pleasant doddle. Start the slab five metres right of Tachyon.

1. 25 metres - Straight up the slab to a tree belay (second belay on Sunstroke)

2. 25 metres - Continue up the slab on the right of the tree to a small ledge

3. 15 metres - Up on the slab and a rib of rock to a good ledge

4. 10 metres - Climb the wall above the ledge to a bush, then continue to another ledge. Alternatively, and more easily, move a few metres right and climb the short wall above. Traverse right and finish up a crack.

A pleasant first pitch, then a wandering adventure. Start at the right-facing corner crack on the left edge of the main slabs.

1. 24m - Layback the easy pleasant corner crack to a semi hanging belay on a sloping ledge in a dihedral (second belay on Sunstroke).

2. 43m - Traverses a line around the same height as the belay then turns a corner. Diagonally right from belay following vegetated crack, staying well underneath blocks. Climb the left edge of the slab to the overlap (second belay on 'Bird of Prey') then continue traversing right under the overlap. Turn the corner and easily up vegetated slab, belay at tree (second belay on Equilibrium).

3. 35 metres - Climb the corner in the overlap (about 4m left of the belay) to the higher slab. Climb diagonally left to the second belay on Ephemeros.

4. 10m - Finish up the last pitch of Ephemeros: climb the wall, moving diagonally right to the bushes, then on to another ledge to boulder-wrap belay.

Pleasant, clean slab climbing on the upper pitches. Start 3m left of Tachyon below a prominent flake.

1. 15m - Crux. Climb the large flake then up the slab past a bolt, then leftwards to the vegetated ramp. Belay behind a large flake.

2. 15m - Climb the wall and slab above. Move right to belay on a ledge (shared with Sunstroke).

3. 35m - Climb shallow corners immediately left of the twin Sunstroke cracks to the arete. Follow the arete to belay on the ledge as for Sunstroke.

An utterly worthless girdle of this area, unless you're into reliving 1970s exploration. Start 15m left of Tachyon, where a vegetated ramp heads right and a crack/ramp heads left. Wanders easily rightwards, up and down along the upper part of the Northern Slabs.

1. 18m - Scramble up the vegetated ramp to the right and belay at the large flake or the first of the three gum trees near the top of the ramp.

2. 28m - Climb over blocks to the wall. Up the wall (crux) and slab above moving to the right to the 3rd belay on Sunstroke.

3. 20m - Climb Sunstroke for about 2m then traverse right along the slab (above the vegetated ramp) to belay at the trees (2nd belay on Ephemeros).

4. 37m - A short down-climb to the slab then continue traversing right beneath the overlap and belay about 4m before this slab joins the slab that extends down to the bolt anchors on Counterbalance. Belay on nuts and cams (#0.4-#1) under the overlap.

5. 24m - Continue 4m right along the slab to the corner (where the rockfall broke off) then climb the overlap. Move right on the higher slab to a short corner and climb (strenuous) to the vegetation to belay. This is the last pitch of Equilibrium.

Worth the walk if you're not too hung-over, with amazing scoopy rock on the latter pitches. Start as for 'Prohibition'.

1. 25m - Climb the left slanting crack and ramp as for 'Prohibition', but continue along the ramp until it levels off.

2. 30m - Up the amazing scoopy/blocky white slabby rock above to a ledge and abseil anchors (you can finish here - walk right).

3. 30m - Up the easy slab behind the belay.

An easy enjoyable slab on very coarse rock with a surprisingly exposed second pitch. Start 15m left of Tachyon and up through the scrub, where a vegetated ramp heads right and a crack/ramp heads left.

1. 17m - Climb the leftward slanting crack to the foot of the ramp.

2. 22m - Diagonally right on the slab above the ramp to a recess at 7m, then up (crux) trending slightly right to a ledge with a large, loose block.

3. 45m - Straight up then slightly right to avoid the overlap. Continue steeply right to a horizontal crack. Above the crack either brave the lichen or move right slightly to join the final pitch of Eagle Eye Direct.

"For those who like the taste of something smooth, with a few crunchy bits for spice" - Paul Daniel. Start about 20m left of 'Tachyon' (8m left and downhill from 'Drunken Delight') where the vague track re-joins the cliff. Straight up for five metres, then step left and up to the second bolt. Tricky moves to get standing on the horizontal band, then delicately straight up to the big ledge to belay as for 'Prohibition' P1. 3 bolts in all.

A serious lead. Start 15 metres left of 'Picnic' at a short, thin indistinct crack. Climb the steep wall just left of the crack, stepping right to a runner beneath a bulge (#2 RP). Move up left towards the bulge then face climb right onto the slab. Traverse right to a scoop and second runner (small / medium nut e.g. #4 RP). Continue straight up to easier climbing. Belay on the ledge. Take your pick of the climbs to finish.

Can be top-roped from a belay left of the first belay of Aquanaut.

Start 35m left of 'Prohibition' (and 10m past Aquanaut Direct Start) at a right-leading, vegetated ramp.

1. 30m - Scramble up the ramp to a large flake (you can also start here - belay required), up this then the grippy slab to the ledge. Trad belay at the left end of a ramp, about 5m left of the first belay on 'Drunken Delight'.

2. 38m - Up the slab keeping to the left edge of the white scoopy rock to a ledge and abseil anchors. Finish up the third pitch of 'Drunken Delight' or walk off right.

Another easy slab, with small gear. Start 15m left of 'Aquanaut' at a wide, shallow groove with incipient cracks.

1. 34m - Up the slab then the groove (crux) to a ledge and DBB.

2. 27m - Easy climbing up the orange scoopy rock to the overlap. Climb the overlap then continue up the low-angled scoop and right to the ledge and abseil anchors. Finish up the third pitch of 'Drunken Delight' or walk off.

Parallel to 'Melmoth', starting about 10m to the left. Unlike Melmoth this route feels like a climb.

1. 33m - Climb the slab moving slightly right to the crack. Up the crack then step right and climb easy slabs to trad belay on the ledge.

2. 40m - Easily left to a large block below the black water streak. Climb the water streak then up the grippy slab to belay at the overlap.

3. 10 metres - Climb the short wall on hollow rock. Walk off right.

Start 30 metres up the hillside from 'Euripus' and about 10m left of the large block on its second pitch. To avoid the scrub bash to the start it is better to climb the first pitch of Euripus then traverse left along the ledge to below the break in the overlap.

Climb the short slab to the overlap. Climb the overlap on good holds then smearing (unprotected crux) up the slab trending left to a horizontal crack at 17m, then up the easier slab to a black water streak. Climb the water streak and belay off a block. Walk off right.

At the extreme right. Up the twin cracks, finishing to the left.

The obvious crack eight metres left of 'Slim Fingers Crack'.

The rightwards leaning crack four metres left of and joining 'Argonaut'.

Start as for 'Deadwood Crack'. Step left onto the wall and follow the rightward leaning V groove to the top.

The undercut cleft just left of 'Deadwood Crack'. Climb to the overhang, move left and up the chimney and wall above, traversing right to finish.