Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 4th Jun 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
14 | Heart Full of Soul | 60m | ||||
The first pitch of this route was filthy and loose which somewhat detracted from the rest of the route but it seemed ok overall in hindsight. The original finish seemed rather pointless and we took the direct. Nice corner in second pitch and DF.
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20 | ★★ Dilettante | 50m | ||||
The second pitch of this route is awesome. Slightly burly, old school funky crack. Sadly the first and last pitch are scrappy. Would be 2 stars without that. I might put an anchor above the good climbing.
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Fri 3rd Jun 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
22 22 X | Under Control | 30m | ||||
more fun steep climbing, sad lack of gear.
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Wed 1st Jun 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
20 | ★ Marmite | 30m | ||||
At least we did the first pitch of Marmite ... On reviewing the description, maybe we did the DF. Maybe we did a new route. All 3 of us failed to work out what the "obvious direct finish" was. What we did was good climbing marred by sufficient dodgy rock to make it, um, exhilarating.
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13 | ★ Sundowner | 30m | ||||
After Douglas tore out a shrub or 2, this was a nice clean line on good rock. Might be a little tricky for 13, but good climbing
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18 | ★ Perpetual Standstill | 40m | ||||
This was going to be a mega classic straightening up a wandery old route. Well, it does go in a lovely straight line but sadly passes some exciting hollow rock. I didn't expect the cool arete finish - funky moves in a great position, gear might leave a little to be desired though.
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Tue 31st May 2016 - Halls Gap Area | ||||||
South-East Mt Difficult Range The Watchtower | ||||||
15 | ★ Beelzebub | 18m | ||||
20 | ★ Happy Jack | 15m, 3 | ||||
14 | ★ Diagonal Crack | 30m | ||||
14 | ★ Flying Buttress | 35m | ||||
Tue 31st May 2016 - NE Mt Zero Range | ||||||
Golton Rocks Cave Cliff | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Gotham City | 25m, 11 | ||||
Tue 31st May 2016 - NE Mt Zero Range | ||||||
Golton Rocks The Sun Gate | ||||||
22 | ★ Conquistador | 12m, 6 | ||||
20 | ★ Tumi | 10m, 5 | ||||
Tue 31st May 2016 - NE Mt Zero Range | ||||||
Golton Rocks Wave Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ The Joker | 13m | ||||
21 | ★ Holy Human Fly | 14m, 6 | ||||
18 | ★ The Penguin | 14m, 5 | ||||
20 | ★★ Catwoman | 15m, 5 | ||||
21 | ★ Alfred's Slippers | 14m, 5 | ||||
18 | ★ Holy Batmania | 11m, 4 | ||||
21 | ★★ Poison Ivy | 13m, 6 | ||||
19 | ★★ Commissioner Gordon (Comissioner Gordon) | 14m, 5 | ||||
18 | ★ The Riddler | 15m, 7 | ||||
18 | ★ Holy Batmania | 11m, 4 | ||||
21 | ★★ Poison Ivy | 13m, 6 | ||||
19 | ★★ Commissioner Gordon (Comissioner Gordon) | 14m, 5 | ||||
18 | ★ The Riddler | 15m, 7 | ||||
15 | ★ The Joker | 13m | ||||
21 | ★ Holy Human Fly | 14m, 6 | ||||
18 | ★ The Penguin | 14m, 5 | ||||
20 | ★★ Catwoman | 15m, 5 | ||||
21 | ★ Alfred's Slippers | 14m, 5 | ||||
Tue 31st May 2016 - Briggs Bluff Area | ||||||
Centurion Walls Lower Centurion Walls | ||||||
21 | ★★ Killer Wolf | 15m, 3 | ||||
23 | ★★ Left Hand Black | 18m, 7 | ||||
20 21 | ★★ Sandpit | 20m, 7 | ||||
Tue 31st May 2016 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||||||
The Olive Cave | ||||||
22 | ★ Puzzled Monkey | 8m, 5 | ||||
22 | ★ Bees Knees | 18m, 5 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Taser (Tazer) | 20m, 7 | ||||
27 | ★★★ Malice | 35m, 2 | ||||
26 | ★ Fist Fighting | 15m, 3 | ||||
Tue 31st May 2016 - Asses Ears Area | ||||||
Asses Ears Main Face | ||||||
14 | ★★ Bullfrog | 100m | ||||
Tue 31st May 2016 - The Rockwall Area | ||||||
The Rockwall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Horsemen of the Apocalypse | 50m | ||||
Tue 31st May 2016 - North-West Mt Difficult Range | ||||||
Mt Difficult Cliff | ||||||
15 17 | ★★ Queen Bee | 81m | ||||
18 | ★★ Procrastination | 82m | ||||
17 | ★★ Vee Line | 73m | ||||
10 | ★ Whipped Cream | 74m | ||||
21 | ★ Bolt Out of the Blue | 27m | ||||
Tue 31st May 2016 - North-West Mt Difficult Range | ||||||
Epaminondas Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Sword in the Stone | 100m | ||||
Tue 31st May 2016 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Barc Cliff | ||||||
7 | ★ Two Fern | 19m | ||||
10 | ★ Toasting Fork | 20m | ||||
16 | ★ Grabbin' Runners | 22m | ||||
16 | ★ Getting Ripped | 22m | ||||
17 | ★ Electric Pink | 25m | ||||
13 | ★ Gettin' Hungry | 25m | ||||
Tue 31st May 2016 - Summerday Valley | ||||||
Bowler Boulder | ||||||
18 | ★ Hit and Run | 13m | ||||
14 | ★ Razor's Edge | 7m | ||||
19 | ★ Sharpville | 10m | ||||
16 | ★ Bowler | 13m | ||||
Tue 31st May 2016 - Summerday Valley | ||||||
Wall of Fools | ||||||
7 | ★ Handles | 27m | ||||
15 | ★ Steph In Soweto | 31m | ||||
21 | ★★★ Soweto | 30m | ||||
15 | ★★ Flake of Fear | 25m | ||||
Tue 31st May 2016 - Summerday Valley | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Texas Chainsaw Massacre | 25m | ||||
17 | ★★ Texas Radio and the Big Beat | 25m | ||||
16 | ★ Rats Tail | 20m | ||||
20 | ★ The Wasp | 30m | ||||
15 | ★ Frogs Hollow | 35m | ||||
18 | ★★ Walking on the Moon | 45m | ||||
21 | ★ 21st Century Schizoid Man | 35m | ||||
23 | ★★ Sixty Second Sixpence Man | 35m | ||||
18 | ★ Halfway Hotel | 25m | ||||
16 | ★ Underneath the Arches | 30m | ||||
Tue 31st May 2016 - Summerday Valley | ||||||
Bird Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Fantasm | 18m | ||||
15 | ★ Greenfingers | 25m | ||||
Tue 31st May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
18 | ★ Plumber's crack | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Quite fun flared slippery jams to start. Lou tells me my perpsective is warped. A bit goey then easier but still ok climbing to top.
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16 | Zorba | 33m | Average | |||
Climbing is quite good but it is disconcerting to see through the crack in the roof. Not sure how connected it is, but it didn't seem to be going anywhere.
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18 | ★ Perpetual Motion | 48m | ||||
The route wanders a lot, but has potential to be really quite good. Going back tomorrow to try a more direct version. And it's the same height as the other routes on the wall. Not sure where the enthusiastic 48m came from. Lou led as one pitch.
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Tue 24th May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Hum Terrace | ||||||
17 | Lord of the Rings Variant Start | 20m | ||||
19 | ★ Exodus 2.5 Direct Finish | 18m | ||||
24 24 R | ★★ Morning Thunder | 30m | ||||
This route was kinda dissapointing. It's only hard in 2 places and has some grotty, iffy rock. Barely a 1 star route. The start would be really dangerous on lead - if you fell off the crux, you are going to crater into the white slabby corner or the ground. If you get through the crux, there's still no gear anyway. The top bit that the guide says is run out is at least safe.
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Tue 24th May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Leasehold Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ GoatyMcGoatface | 25m | ★ Good | |||
This is actually a pretty good direct line, moss free, fun steep moves down low and a few more up high, although it eased disappointingly quickly at the top.
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Sun 22nd May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Meekly Unconcerned | 15m | ||||
Adam the giant failed to mention that it is at least 22 for midgets. I might have to stop climbing with Adam, it's too disappointing to see him check my 5th piece of gear without leaving the ground and reach straight past the 2 desperate bits. There's also some dodgy rock, but it did survive all of us hauling on it.
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24 | Small Creeps | 30m | ||||
I really wanted a control minus function to move everything a bit closer together. Moves are pretty cool, but a little like 27 for midgets. I didn't think the ending was as bad as Douglas did.
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Sat 21st May 2016 - Summerday Valley | ||||||
Back Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Overkill | 23m | ||||
22 | ★ Tootsie Direct | 20m | ||||
19 | ★ Tootsie | 20m | ||||
10 | ★ An-tics | 20m | ||||
9 15 | ★ Odlid Baggins (Variant) | 25m | ||||
3 | ★ Cypress | 15m | ||||
7 | ★ Eat More Parsley | 22m | ||||
10 | ★ Hard Drain | 26m | ||||
15 9 | ★ Odlid Baggins | 25m | ||||
10 | ★ Hard Drain | 26m | ||||
15 9 | ★ Odlid Baggins | 25m | ||||
9 15 | ★ Odlid Baggins (Variant) | 25m | ||||
3 | ★ Cypress | 15m | ||||
7 | ★ Eat More Parsley | 22m | ||||
Sat 21st May 2016 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Van Diemen's Land | ||||||
22 | ★★ Terminal Insomnia | 30m, 7 | ||||
24 | ★★ Blond Ambition | 25m, 7 | ||||
23 | ★★ Sisters of Mercy | 25m, 4 | ||||
24 | ★★★ Body Count | 25m, 7 |