Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Stanwell Tops | |||||||
Stonehaven | |||||||
18 Easy | ★★ Soul Searching - with Gam, Softboi_core, Michael Velsigne | 18m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Consistent climb throughout. Fun lay back crux
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20 | ★★ The Shield - with Kati | 16m, 7 | |||||
Generous jugs. Took me only 9 attempts to get up to second bolt from the ground. Variety of sick moves all the way, frothing for another go!
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17 | Landslide - with Michael Velsigne | 10m, 5 | |||||
Short and funky. Keen to go back at it to use intermediate R feet that I discovered later. Would be so much helpful to reach ledge above second bolt.
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19 | ★ Snake And Ladders - with Michael Velsigne | 10m, 6 | |||||
Pretty cruisy, until the bulge overhead. Had few attempts to grab the final hold for anchor clipping, limited reach. Maybe better feet positioning!
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Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Fear Wall | |||||||
20 | ★★ Two Boys One Skyhook - with MB | 110m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lead all pitches bar the P2 bushwalk and linked pitch 4+5 for some mild rope drag. My 40m static was too short to rap from P3 belay to the ground.
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Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Stanwell Tops | |||||||
Stonehaven | |||||||
20 | ★★ Hone Your Bone — 3 attempts | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Awkward crux took a few goes to figure out, but was well worth it. Flows nicely with the static method!
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Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Scarborough Cliffs | |||||||
Kenny's Wall | |||||||
13 | ★ Escape the Dungeon - with Kate Emanuel | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
TRS
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Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Stanwell Tops | |||||||
Stonehaven | |||||||
18 | ★★ Blade and Bladder - with Shauno | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I loved this. Wandering, fun jams, kneebar rest.
The tree branch towards the top of the route looks a bit “impaley”. Shauno took a surprise whip when a face hold broke off as he was about to clip the anchor, luckily he didn’t fall too far out from the wall. Would probably benefit from a tidy-up. 18 feels about right if you find the line, possibly soft once the route sees some traffic and all the residual sand has settled. Regardless, great fun. |
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20 ~21 | ★★ Fling The Merciless - with Shauno | 12m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Turns out I've climbed this before. Onsight today 😅 Feels hard for the grade, especially compared with the neighbouring routes.
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20 | ★★ Contremaître - with Shauno | 12m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Unnecessarily tenuous mantle, saved by a blind overhead tip-of-thumb undercrimp. Surprised I held on towards the top.
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20 | ★ Tataclop - with Shauno | 12m, 8 | |||||
Quick shot at the end of the day. Missed a footer, decided instead to try and campus the flake for some reason.
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18 | ★★ Soul Searching — 2 attempts - with David Brancalion | 18m, 9 | |||||
Cruisy climb, struggled big time above the penultimate bolt. Couple of falls involved to grab onto sandy sloper jug just below anchor.
Took two attempts to figure out the move near 6th bolt slabby section w good under clings.
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19 | ★ Hanko — 2 attempts - with David Brancalion | 18m, 8 | |||||
All the fun lies in the first three bolts, it got better after. Couple of intermediate and smear was the go! Took lots of rest on the way up.
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Stanwell Tops | |||||||
Stonehaven | |||||||
20 | ★ Tataclop - with James Hutton | 12m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice
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20 | ★★ Contremaître — 2 attempts - with James Hutton | 12m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Didn't find the first rest on my last attempt. Also was too pumped at the anchors and grabbed the draws clipping.
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20 | ★★ Fling The Merciless - with James Hutton | 12m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun
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19 | ★★ Pendulous Testicles - with James Hutton | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Missed the clipping spot at the top, kept climbing but feel after down climbing.
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20 | ★★ Osaka Punch — 2 attempts - with James Hutton | 13m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell on the start a few times but wasn't too bad once you got your feet right. Think I dodged the second crux by going to far right 3/4 of the way up. Fun climb.
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19 | ★★ Chain-saw - with Shauno, Jake | 19m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Hard, reachy start, then fairly straightforward to the anchor. Mono pocket.
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20 | ★ The Greatest and Best Rock Climb in the World (Tribute) - with Shauno, Jake | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun toe jamming to a reachy mantle.
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Stanwell Tops | |||||||
Stonehaven | |||||||
17 | ★ Who the Fuck is Kenny - with Softboi_core, Gam, Gustavo Barbosa | 11m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Bouldery mantel start and tricky finish, nice warmup though!
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17 ~16 | ★ I Carried a Watermelon - with Softboi_core, Gam, Gustavo Barbosa | 11m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome dihedral climb with consistent difficulty throughout. A classic imo
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18 | ★ MooserWirt - with Gam, Roger Jiang | 15m, 6 | |||||
Struggled right at the start, finding feet to reach pocket on right for the 2nd bolt.
Liked the crimp city to move up.
Punched a resident skink in a jug near 5th bolt. We both screamed at the same time! On the right the crack was swarmed w bees and quite spread all over to the anchor!
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18 | ★★ Naissance - with Gam, Roger Jiang | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Warm up climb.
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15 | ★ Floating World - with Gam, Roger Jiang | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cruisy
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18 | ★★ Naissance - with Softboi_core, Gam, Gustavo Barbosa | 14m, 6 | Don't Bother | ||||
Tricky cave exit followed by spicy mantle finish on crimps. Had lots of fun on this one. Well protected.
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16 | ★★ Three Rooves to Glory - with Roger Jiang, Gam | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun mix of cave/ overhang/ arete vibe.
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15 Hard | ★ Floating World - with Softboi_core, Gam | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
I found this harder than 15 but my friends disagree. Fun climb.
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Coalcliff | |||||||
The Quarterdeck The Alcove | |||||||
12 | Sandwiches | 12m | Average | ||||
Warm up. 2 laps. A bit grotty.
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17 | ★ Powerful Owl | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Pretty rock. Slopers.
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Coalcliff | |||||||
The Quarterdeck The Top Deck | |||||||
16 ~15 | ★★ Pirates & Plunders | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
So good! Instant exposure from bolt 1. Lovely undulating rock. Nice flora. Bonus Surf check.
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Fri 15th Sep 2023 - Stanwell Tops | |||||||
Stonehaven | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Trixie’s Ton | 18m, 8 | |||||
Awesome
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Thu 14th Sep 2023 - Stanwell Tops | |||||||
Stonehaven | |||||||
15 | ★ Floating World - with Jess Morton | 20m, 10 | Average | ||||
Theres heaps better warm ups then this!
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20 | ★★ Donut Queen - with Jess Morton | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Another great line. Pinch at the end was very fun
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21 | ★★ The Last King of Scotland - with Jess Morton | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A part from hugely spooge start excellent climbing
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22 ~21 | ★★★ Trixie’s Ton - with Jess Morton | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very good- but probably a bit soft for 22
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Wed 13th Sep 2023 - Mount Keira | |||||||
West Face Boulders Book Boulder | |||||||
V7 | ★★ Big Book Left Hand Variant | 5m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Almost got the day flash, but still managed to it done today after 5 sessions.
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Mon 11th Sep 2023 - Stanwell Tops | |||||||
Stonehaven | |||||||
19 Hard | ★ Snake And Ladders | 10m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Finally decided to clean up this old dog from a few years back.
Quality of the route probably varies depending on how much traffic it gets, today it was quite sandy. But with some cleaning up, there is some fun climbing to be had on good rock.
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Stanwell Tops | |||||||
Stonehaven | |||||||
17 | Landslide | 10m, 5 | Crap | ||||
Don’t bother
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Mount Keira | |||||||
Lower Boulders | |||||||
V8 | ★★★ Infinity Wars | 4m | |||||
Managed to get the crux...
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V4 | ★ 2 | 4m | |||||
Still don't know how to do this but got closer today than ever. Can you stem the right side?
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V6 | ★★★ Jungle Cat | 4m | |||||
Still feels impossible cuz I cant reach good hold
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V3 | ★★ Chungsta | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Finally did this by matching feet and coming over to the right side a little and scrambling up by pinching whatever I could grab near the top. Literally could not do it the normal way it was just too reachy. Really nice climb though
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Scarborough Cliffs | |||||||
Obesity Buttress | |||||||
18 Hard |
★★ Big Fat Fin Slappers
- with
Caitlyn
1
16
25
2
18
18
3
14
7
| 50m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Was definitely confused while climbing this, looks like I split pitch 1 into 2 pitches; not sure why you’d bother with the rope drag and avoid a really good belay ledge?
Cool featured rock and thought provoking moves on the towards the end. P2 (3 for me), I was expecting grade 14 so was definitely shocked to find myself so pumped. A bit reachy and plenty of exposure. Had to sit on the last bolt because I really didn’t want to do that mantle while pumped and send caitlyn into the wall. Painful handjam to top out worked wonders though. This would be a shocker if 18 was your limit. I’d have to recommend BOTH climbers to be solid at the grade because that traverse would be terrible if you weren’t on both lead or second. P3 (my p4) was… a waste of time? This route really should be something like: P1: 13, stop on big comfy ledge. P2: 16, up corner to small belay stance. P3: 18/19: traverse and up. Scramble off while on belay, no grade or pitch description. But that’s just my 2c |
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Scarborough Cliffs | |||||||
Whale of a Time Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Whale of a Time - with Caitlyn | 50m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Approach shoes
Lead 1/3
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Coalcliff | |||||||
The Quarterdeck ABC Area | |||||||
17 | ★★ Acquired Arete | 14m, 4 | |||||
Nice arete with cool movement transitioning between side pulls. One fall at bolt 2 following the bolt line on the rhs of the corner. The intended line seems to be directly up the arete.
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Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Stanwell Tops | |||||||
Stonehaven | |||||||
20 | ★★ Osaka Punch - with Teresa Martinez | 13m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Another tricky one to onsight for me, spend a bit of time before going for the right crimp and cranking on jt
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19 | ★★ Little Flakey - with Teresa Martinez | 12m, 9 | |||||
Awesome climb, must do
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20 | ★★ Hone Your Bone - with Teresa Martinez | 12m, 7 | |||||
Happy to onsight this, interesting crux to figure out on the fly
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18 | ★ MooserWirt - with Teresa Martinez | 15m, 6 | |||||
Old dog ticked
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20 | ★ The Big Wank Club - with Teresa Martinez | 15m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Back after years. Also dirty at the extension.
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21 | ★★ Pole Dance - with Teresa Martinez | 18m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Last climb of the day, had a sequence of hand and foot slip and could hold it. Really nice climb
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17 | Landslide - with Teresa Martinez | 10m, 5 | Average | ||||
very bad choice as warm up hehe and may need a bit more cleaning
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20 | ★★ Hone Your Bone | 12m, 7 | |||||
There's 1 hard move about a third up (I found it a 21 move), the rest is OK, so 20 may be fair but I would probably not call it soft.
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23 | ★★ 44 | 15m, 8 | |||||
The crux section is slopey, and reachy.
I found this section really hard and I reckon I'd need to spend a bit of time on it for a send.
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Mon 28th Aug 2023 - Mount Keira | |||||||
West Face | |||||||
12 | ★ Bills Folly - with Kelly Ristovsky | 13m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lots of fun to zipper up.
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20 | ★ Hills Hardmen - with Kelly Ristovsky | 13m, 2 | Don't Bother | ||||
Felt hard but to be honest the moves around the second carot felt the hardest. The section where the 20 goes to the left of the 17 felt a bit strong but I wouldnt wanna see those final moves on something graded 17.
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8 | ★ Nursery - with Kelly Ristovsky | 10m | |||||
Direct start using the crack on the right side of anglic. Hexes and nuts only.
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20 | ★ Hills Hardmen - with Ben Anthonisz | 13m, 2 | |||||
Took big fall at crux
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12 | ★ Iria - with Ben Anthonisz | 10m | |||||
Only used nuts and hexes
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8 | ★ Nursery - with Ben Anthonisz | 10m | |||||
Took direct start
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Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Mount Keira | |||||||
West Face Boulders Nitro Wall | |||||||
V9 | ★★ Double Blower | 4m | |||||
Moves r hard
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V5 | ★★ Nitro Wall Leftside | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Feels super easy nowadays
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V4 | ★★ NOS — 4 attempts | 4m | ★ Good | ||||
Sore hammy
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Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Mount Keira | |||||||
West Face | |||||||
13 | ★ Bangers & Flash | 12m | |||||
Dead rope. Placed gear on top rope.
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6 | Nurlegs | 10m | |||||
Deadrope. Placed gear on TR.
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14 | ★ Angelic | 10m | |||||
Deadrope. Placed gear on TR.
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8 | ★ Nursery | 10m | |||||
Deadrope. Placed gear on TR.
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Sat 26th Aug 2023 - Fear Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★ Two Boys One Storm (Link-up) | 100m, 14 | |||||
Turns out I accidently did this when I though i did storms at sea, probably what led to picking the wrong rap down the monkey rope.
Really fun half day out, the bolting at the crux is interesting. Was fine for me but wouldn't want to be falling on it (not super bad just low to the ledge). Also made it to the ledge after the first pitch with a 60m static rope, and tbh to me not worth going all the way down to the bottom. |
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Sat 26th Aug 2023 - Scarborough Cliffs | |||||||
Obesity Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★★ Big Fat Fin Slappers
- with
Eliezer
1
16
25m
2
18
18m
3
14
7m
| 50m, 17 | |||||
"It is possible that you won't be able to pull your rope down after the first abseil" - very possible 🥴 good thing Ez could toprope solo out or I'd be permanently living on that ledge.
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Sat 26th Aug 2023 - Stanwell Tops | |||||||
Stonehaven | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Trixie’s Ton — 2 attempts | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Been a minute since I was last on this one, it's pretty good!
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20 | ★★ The Shield | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Warm-up
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24 | ★★ Les Pincettes | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Repeat lap with friend.
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Sat 26th Aug 2023 - Scarborough Cliffs | |||||||
Obesity Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★★ Big Fat Fin Slappers - with Anthony Mackay | 50m, 17 | |||||
Our rope most definitely got stuck. For other parties without a static line, I strongly recommend rapping down in 3 sections, to avoid this situation.
Aid top rope soloed back up the main pitch, tons of exposure with some pretty cool moves |
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Sat 26th Aug 2023 - Scarborough Cliffs | |||||||
Whale of a Time Wall | |||||||
17 | ★★ Eyesaw - with Anthony Mackay | 14m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice full crimp Crux. Only 1 star, rock is a litte chossy
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16 | ★ Skysaw - with Anthony Mackay | 13m, 7 | |||||
A lot of very commiting deadpoints
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16 | ★★ Whale of a Time - with Anthony Mackay | 50m | |||||
Anthony led first and third pitch. Stunning views, and breezy climbing
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Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Mount Keira | |||||||
West Face Boulders Book Boulder | |||||||
V5 | ★★ The Book of Crackpipes | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Neat little climb
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V7 | ★★ Big Book Left Hand Variant | 5m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
the knee in the dimple did the job straight away allowing me to do the last move to the ledge hold.
Also when I arrived at the boulder I found 4 separate pieces of climbing tape that had been left. I took then and trashed them but please take out everything you take in. Also a water bottle was left I put it under the Boulder. |
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Mon 21st Aug 2023 - Mount Keira | |||||||
South Face | |||||||
11 | Kindergarten - with Damian Lum | 20m | |||||
Used pre placed quickdraws on route just to the left of the crack
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Stanwell Tops | |||||||
Stonehaven | |||||||
24 | ★★ Les Pincettes — 2 attempts | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Spent the first attempt for the day figuring out some beta for the top crux. Managed to get a few moves working, but was losing power to make it to the anchor. Retreated to rest up.
Tied in for another attempt after half an hour, and I don't know how, but everything just flowed. Before I knew it, I was at the top, clipping the anchor with a serious case of Elvis leg, making it my first climb of the grade.
The top crux is beautiful and delicate, requiring some finesse with the feet.
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21 | ★ Milk Was A Bad Choice | 17m, 12 | |||||
Gonna have to try this with some better footwork.
2 falls, one from a foothold which broke (not crucial), and a foot slip on an angled hold a little further up.
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20 | ★★ The Shield | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Warm-up lap
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Scarborough Cliffs | |||||||
The Penthouse | |||||||
17 | ★ I'm Lichen This - with Kai Buckman | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
linked from boogie to top to save time as it was getting dark, dont do it, so much drag
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10 | ★★ Highway to Hell - with Kai Buckman | 40m | Average | ||||
downclimb simul
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Scarborough Cliffs | |||||||
Vegemite Wall | |||||||
21 Hard |
★★ Tim Tam Jam
1
Pretty on, substantially harder and better then the first pitch.
2
| 50m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun! Bit sandy and mossy in spots
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Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Stanwell Tops | |||||||
Stonehaven | |||||||
23 | ★★ High On Smack - with Jess Morton | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Liked this more than HOC
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23 | ★★ High On Crack - with Jess Morton | 19m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Awesome crux- but felt end and start a bit too easy
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18 | ★★ Soul Searching - with Jess Morton | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Warm up. Rest of crag was wet
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Mon 14th Aug 2023 - Mount Keira | |||||||
West Face | |||||||
20 | ★★ One Blank Wall and 3 Bloody Rooves — 2 attempts - with Uts Oac | 12m, 5 | |||||
First 20 tick. Tried to back up with a lead but blew an a3 pulley as I pulled onto the bottom row of crimps. Six weeks rehab. Maybe warm up properly next time.
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Stanwell Tops | |||||||
Stonehaven | |||||||
20 | ★★ Bolts By AAron - with Ryan Cocchietto, Kurtis Grant, Corey Moes, Wade Stewart, Raffaela | 16m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thanks for the bolts Aaron
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20 | ★★ Bitchin About Lichen - with Ryan Cocchietto, Kurtis Grant, Corey Moes, Wade Stewart, Raffaela | 12m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Defs worth a play on this
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20 | ★★ The Cult of Chuck - with Ryan Cocchietto, Kurtis Grant, Corey Moes, Wade Stewart, Raffaela | 12m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Another lap on cult
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Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Stanwell Tops | |||||||
Stonehaven | |||||||
24 | ★★ Napalm Strike | 18m | |||||
Should’ve flashed second shot
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16 | ★★ Three Rooves to Glory - with Lucy | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Insane terrain for the grade, pulling onto the headwall and seeing the view down below is so satisfying. Pumpfest.
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20 | ★★ The Shield - with Alvin Ong, Niki | 16m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Cleaning up an old dog, went so much nicer - nowhere near as pumped, much better endurance on steep.
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21 | ★★ Pole Dance — 2 attempts - with Alvin Ong, Lucy, Niki | 18m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Two lead burns, first went much better. Need to breathe, embrace the pump and thin slab moves.
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15 | ★ Floating World - with Alvin Ong, Lucy, Niki | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Warmup, lovely climbing.
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21 | ★ Dead Pool | 12m, 8 | |||||
Struggled to get over the starting roof and took a rest as the last bolt.
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20 | ★★ Donut Queen | 20m, 9 | |||||
Lovely juggy climb
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