Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | Fecha | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Clemency Wall | ||||||||
16 | ★ Dreadnought | 380m | Sáb 26.º Oct 2002 | |||||
Simulclimbed with Cam Fairbairn
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16 | ★ Dreadnought | 380m | Ni te molestes | Dom 4.º Jul 2004 | ||||
Took 7 hours to do the first 3 pitches, so we bailed! Very runout on crappy rock.
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16 | ★ Dreadnought | 380m | Medio | Mié 6.º Jul 2005 | ||||
With NZ Mike. After dreaming about doing this for the last 4 years, I finally got my teeth into it, although it's not a climb I'd be in a hurry to repeat. Not a lot of gear needed - I took all my hexes with me & didn't use 1! Just cams (up to #4) & Aliens/Zeros and some nuts. Got to use my new #3 Zero for the first time and then lost my brandnew Reverso when it got away from me at a ledge. Took a small fall on P10, fortunately I was in a chimney & ended up sideways level with my gear. We only got off route twice on 12 pitches!
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16 | ★ Dreadnought | 380m | ★ Buena | Dom 22.º Jul 2001 | ||||
View pics
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16 | ★ Dreadnought - con Dave Cook | 380m | ★ Buena | Mié 23.º Ag 2017 | ||||
An adventurous day out. Went off route in a few bits but made it to the top in one piece. Ended up doing part of variant finish in a massive 60+ meter pitch.
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15 | ★ Lancelot | 90m | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 29.º Jun 2004 | ||||
Lead one pitch.
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15 | ★ Lancelot | 90m | Medio | Dom 28.º Mar 2004 | ||||
seconded Jeremy to get to the halfway house
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15 18 | ★ Lancelot | 90m | Sáb 15.º Feb 2003 | |||||
Pitch 1 belay: Extremely antique piton and valve-stem (!) anchor (see picture) replaced with double stainless tru-bolt belay with fixed hangers.
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15 18 | ★ Lancelot | 90m | Medio | Sáb 27.º Mar 2004 | ||||
linked 1+2 OS, then 2nd the 3rd.
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15 18 | ★ Lancelot | 90m | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 2.º Mar 2003 | ||||
Cameron Fairbairn lead the first two pitches in one push and I lead the second two pitches together. This is a great climb except for the exposed crux which is unprotectable. A little caution here is needed to surmount the crux.
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15 18 | ★ Lancelot | 90m | ★ Buena | Dom 28.º Mar 2004 | ||||
Not much good gear but still fun
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15 |
★ Lancelot
- con
Melissa Schulz
1
escalada de primero por
Callum
2
escalada de primero por
Callum
| 90m | Medio | Sáb 25.º Feb 2017 | ||||
Didn't have time to finish. I found the protection to be sparse... there seemed to be plenty of flaring cracks with misleading constrictions. Took ages to get the gear I was comfortable with. I'll go back and do it again properly. Just with a fresh head: didn't do last two pitches
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18 | ★ Lancelot - con Ryan Siacci, Josh Worley | 90m | Sáb 23.º Mar 2019 | |||||
Ryan led and linked P1 & P2, and I took P3 & P4. It was definitely a bold move to call the crux moves grade 7, but then again I'm not sure what the hardest grade was in 1966. I also don't know if I'd rate the crux as hard as 18, but the moves feel harder than they are because of the lack of pro. I know that I'll probably draw criticism from saying this, but I think the pitons on this route should be replaced, as they are badly corroded (are they from 1966?). I also would advocate for a bolted anchor at the top of P3, as the single piton belay is not very confidence inspiring. But then again, there is something to be said for the historical character of the route. In any event, worth doing...once.
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18 |
★ Lancelot
- con
Scott Birse
| 90m | Lun 15.º Feb 2021 | |||||
Super cruisy route with more protection than the description suggests. The moves felt easier than Clemency. Pulled off a few loose bits but still highly recommend this climb.
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17 | Pr.Asc. ★★ Guenevere | 90m | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 16.º Feb 2003 | ||||
A bit scary in parts, but overall a solid, excellent outing. Easily comprable to Lancelot or Clemency. I led pitch 1 and 2. Phil led pitch 3.
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17 | Pr.Asc. ★★ Guenevere | 90m | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 16.º Feb 2003 | ||||
Fun little first pitch direct start to Lancelot
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17 | ★★ Guenevere - con Ryan Siacci, Josh Worley | 90m | Sáb 30.º Sep 2017 | |||||
Led and onsighted all pitches. Somehow ended up at the wrong anchor at the top of pitch 2, however, and so pitch 3 was...interesting. We may have gotten the first ascent of this variant finish today. I wouldn't exactly recommend it, unless loose death blocks surrounding marginal thin gear is your thing.
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17 |
★★ Guenevere
- con
Ryan Siacci, David Jefferson
1
escalada de primero por
Josh
2
escalada de primero por
Josh
3
escalada de primero por
Dave
| 90m | ★ Buena | Sáb 30.º Sep 2017 | ||||
Interesting climb. I lead the first 2 pitches but following the line of least resistance ended up on the anchors of Caritas, about 10m left of where we should have been. Dave who was climbing as another party led into the 3rd pitch which was steep and full of loose death blocks. Would not suggest doing this. Just climb Caritas.
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27 | Pr.Asc. ★★★ The Simon Vos Memorial | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | Sáb 14.º Oct 2006 | ||||
His life enriched so many. [5]
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27 28 | ★★★ The Simon Vos Memorial | 18m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 14.º Oct 2006 | ||||
Fell at crux, then finally figured out the move. [3]
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27 28 | ★★★ The Simon Vos Memorial | 18m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 7.º Oct 2006 | ||||
Stopped at the crux move [2]
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27 28 | ★★★ The Simon Vos Memorial | 18m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 1.º Oct 2006 | ||||
Bolted today, and dogged the crap out of it. My new project.
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27 28 | ★★★ The Simon Vos Memorial - con Duncan Steel † | 18m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 5.º Mar 2016 | ||||
hard, technical face to a punchy boulder as it gets steeper. didn't get much of a look before we got saturated.
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27 28 | ★★★ The Simon Vos Memorial | 18m, 10 | Sáb 14.º Mayo 2016 | |||||
I can't see my self ticking this anytime soon. w/Duncan
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28 | ★★★ The Simon Vos Memorial | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | Sáb 7.º Sep 2013 | ||||
Amazing orange steep wall perched in space complete with perfect thin sidepulling. Likely 2nd ascent after 7 years. -- In retrospect, it suited my style perfectly and compared to Hybrid Vigour or Acid, probably warrants the grade of 28. But who really knows...
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28 Duro | ★★★ The Simon Vos Memorial — 2 intentos - con jmul | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | Sáb 19.º Ag 2023 | ||||
Amazing position. Some pretty phsycho crimps, keen to come back. RIP my hips from the hanging belay.
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28 Duro | ★★★ The Simon Vos Memorial — 5 intentos - con jmul | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 27.º Ag 2023 | ||||
Almost pulled the crux on the second shot. A route that demands some strong fingers that's for sure.
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28 | ★★★ The Simon Vos Memorial — 3 intentos - con Troy McAndrew | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | Vie 3.º Nov 2023 | ||||
Dream route come true! ever since seeing the photo of Monique in the guidebook when I was 15.. never thought I would ever be able to climb that hard
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28 Duro | ★★★ The Simon Vos Memorial — 4 intentos - con Anthony Bristow | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | Vie 3.º Nov 2023 | ||||
So close but no dice. Was awesome seeing strong lad Anthony get up it. Great motivation to come back for another round
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28 Duro | ★★★ The Simon Vos Memorial - con Laura Price | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | Jue 9.º Nov 2023 | ||||
Draws up.
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28 Duro | ★★★ The Simon Vos Memorial - con Laura Price | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | Jue 9.º Nov 2023 | ||||
Just lacking a little in skin and body freshness. Did highpoint though, happy with that.
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28 Duro | ★★★ The Simon Vos Memorial - con jmul | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 19.º Nov 2023 | ||||
draws up.
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28 Duro | ★★★ The Simon Vos Memorial - con jmul | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 19.º Nov 2023 | ||||
Great connies later in the day. This thing still feels mega hard.
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28 Duro | ★★★ The Simon Vos Memorial - con Dan Cox | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | Mié 28.º Feb 2024 | ||||
Draws up.
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28 Duro | ★★★ The Simon Vos Memorial - con Dan Cox | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | Mié 28.º Feb 2024 | ||||
Great to get reacquainted with the proj. Still hard as nails. Big punts today.
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28 | ★★★ The Simon Vos Memorial | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | Mar 21.º Mayo 2024 | ||||
Did all the moves but one. Hard but amazing climbing
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Sáb 18.º Feb 2006 | ||||
Repeat. (Duncan got attacked by bats!)
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Sáb 20.º En 2007 | ||||
From ground to top of Caritas in one pitch.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Vie 15.º Abr 2005 | ||||
with adam as part of celestial in a day
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22 | Pr.Asc. ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Sáb 18.º Dic 2004 | ||||
Amazing orange corner
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Sáb 12.º Nov 2005 | ||||
After pumping myself silly on Alienation, then leading Tested Twisticle, I basically fell up this one. Awesome moves on awesome rock, without a doubt the best I've climbed on in the GHs. Susy reckons it's a Mega Classic in her books, but I thought the last few moves/holds should have been like those below. Some where between Classic-Mega Classic for me. By far the best 21 I've ever been on.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Sáb 11.º Feb 2006 | ||||
11/2/06: 2nd Duncan. Upgrade to 22.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Megaclásica | Sáb 18.º Dic 2004 | ||||
Absolute top quality climbing, virtually the best I`ve done. Along for the ride on the FFA
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Sáb 14.º Oct 2006 | ||||
With Rob, to do the project.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Sáb 29.º Oct 2005 | ||||
Had 2nd'd it prevoiusly with Adam on15.4.05 (celestial in a day). This time with Ben as part of 'the twisticle connection'
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 19.º Jul 2009 | ||||
Guiding Kym - p3.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Megaclásica | Dom 4.º Dic 2005 | ||||
With Pete. So how do I feel after redpointing this? Think When Harry Met Sally. 12 Nov 05 with Mark. Super-stylish route of swashbuckling moves - puts sparkles in your eyes. Mwa to the First Ascentionists from Susy G
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 28.º En 2007 | ||||
this time with Ross
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Megaclásica | Sáb 10.º En 2009 | ||||
Cheers Ro for giving me the best pitch on Tibro!!! Laughing the whole way and could not wipe the smile off my face.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 30.º Ag 2009 | ||||
Seconding Azza
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Megaclásica | Dom 13.º Jul 2008 | ||||
Simply amazing!! I came so very close to getting it clean first shot, but slipped trying to clip the chains. Definately have to go back again to lead it.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 28.º En 2007 | ||||
went for the o/s but gave up.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 21.º En 2007 | ||||
Tried for the o/s but gave up.This is eather realy hard or i was having a shit day!!
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 19.º Jul 2009 | ||||
Guiding Kym - p3..
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 1.º Oct 2006 | ||||
With Erik, to scope new project.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Sáb 7.º Oct 2006 | ||||
Proj warmup
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 7.º Nov 2010 | ||||
very exciting, was a bit too tired to get this together
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Megaclásica | Sáb 26.º Mar 2011 | ||||
Awesome climb, awesome moves, awesome position. Climbed on the way down from Halfway House.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Megaclásica | Sáb 18.º Oct 2014 | ||||
Best bit rock on tibro !!!
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22 | ★★★ Caritas - con Duncan Steel † | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Sáb 5.º Mar 2016 | ||||
beautiful bit of rock, great position.. rad.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | Sáb 14.º Mayo 2016 | |||||
Ten years later. w/Duncan
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22 | ★★★ Caritas - con CJ | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Mié 14.º Sep 2016 | ||||
Very nice steep corner and headwall. Accessed from Halfway House by doing a 5m rap R from the base of a fixed rope. We rapped in two from the base of the climb to the ground on a 70m
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Lun 30.º En 2017 | ||||
And what a finale! The Twisticle Connection is booosss!!!! Really fun and classy stemming through the corner. Headwall moves are beauts, as well.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas - con Duncan Steel † | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Megaclásica | Sáb 25.º Feb 2017 | ||||
Probably one of the best pitches in the Glass House. Quality rock and killer position.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas - con Danny | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Megaclásica | Mié 1.º Ag 2018 | ||||
Friggin awesome line, with some moves that just took my breath away, literally. WOW. Amazing
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22 | ★★★ Caritas - con Antoine Chandonnet | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Mié 26.º Dic 2018 | ||||
Left the belay feeling a bit average TBH. Got to the crux move and had a really unfortunate foot slip, and was wayyyyy too hot to go on. Felt like I had early stage heat stroke, so lowered off for Chandos flash. Looked solid the whole way! Probably my weakest form of climbing (stemming) and certainly not good weather for it. Need to work on this skill, and timing to be on routes too.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas - con John Pownall | 18m, 7 | Mié 26.º Dic 2018 | |||||
What a pitch!
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Sáb 6.º Abr 2019 | ||||
This pitch does live up to the hype, though personally I think some of the other lines at the grade at Tibro are arguably better and harder, since they are longer (e.g., Latitudes). I danced around at the crux longer than expected because there was a small bat in the finger crack that kept nipping at my fingers!
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Sáb 6.º Abr 2019 | ||||
Great pitch of climbing. Not as difficult as I was expecting however good rest is crucial. Will have to come back for the send.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Sáb 17.º Ag 2013 | ||||
Capped off a great day after going up Aphelion to Halfway House and getting spanked on some 24. Tried some moves on TSVMR on the way down which planted the seed to come back to eventually send it
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22 | ★★★ Caritas - con Duncan Steel † | 18m, 7 | ★ Buena | Mié 16.º Oct 2019 | ||||
A similar but slightly easier version of the Aphelion p3 corner.
Lots of body tension required stemming and laybacking left me quite exhausted. Doesn't let up until you hit the anchors.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas - con Anna Vo | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Megaclásica | Vie 16.º Oct 2020 | ||||
Beautiful line. Up there with the best tibro has to offer
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22 | ★★★ Caritas - con Anna Vo | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Vie 13.º Nov 2020 | ||||
Probably one of the best pitches I have done on tibro 10/10 would climb again. Beautiful orange stem corner with a little over hang spice at the end.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Megaclásica | Vie 11.º Jun 2021 | ||||
Is the finest single pitch of climbing I have done on Tibro. Ultra mega classic moves, position and rock. Got all the way through the corner and up to the headwall and pumped out - loved it all the same.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 17.º Oct 2021 | ||||
As expected, met my fate at the headwall where one is forced to face climb. I lost the onsight and rach lost a shoe down clemency. As always, something silly happens when i step on to the lofty 22 grade and today was no exception. Captain hooked a bolt plate up top to save a whip and couldnt figure out how to rearrange to get the finger out to clip. Glad i had a solid foot on.. Jesus. Phenomenal route though at a good level.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas - con Tristan Baskerville | 18m, 7 | Sáb 19.º Feb 2022 | |||||
1 sit at the crux, rest clean 🙂. Thanks T for putting the draws on and scaring the bats out for me!!
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22 | ★★★ Caritas - con sunny | 18m, 7 | Mar 28.º Jun 2022 | |||||
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 10.º Jul 2022 | ||||
Great rock and pumpy headwall make this classic. If only it were longer
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22 | ★★★ Caritas - con Greg Carter | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Mié 3.º Ag 2022 | ||||
I don't want to talk about it
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22 | ★★★ Caritas - con Peter Forsyth | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Megaclásica | Sáb 20.º Ag 2022 | ||||
Incredible climbing
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22 | ★★★ Caritas - con Jack Seawright | 18m, 7 | Lun 3.º Oct 2022 | |||||
Great moves through that middle section, boffed the top
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22 | ★★★ Caritas — 2 intentos - con Troy McAndrew | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Jue 9.º Nov 2023 | ||||
super fun climb!! absolutely loved the mix of balancing up the corner then fighting the pump on the top section
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22 | ★★★ Caritas - con Janet | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 15.º Oct 2023 | ||||
Cool as mint slice.
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18 | Pr.Asc. ★ Tested Twisticle (right) | 35m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 28.º En 2007 | ||||
this time with Ross
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18 | Pr.Asc. ★ Tested Twisticle (right) | 35m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 29.º Oct 2005 | ||||
with Ben. I initially led this groundup with no bolts but added them after figuring out the best spots.
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18 | ★ Tested Twisticle (right) - con Duncan Steel † | 35m, 4 | ★ Buena | Sáb 5.º Mar 2016 | ||||
pretty sure dunc linked into this from the ground to get to caritas in one pitch.
|
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18 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Right) | 35m, 4 | Sáb 6.º Abr 2019 | |||||
I think that we did the right version...somehow hard to tell.
|
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18 | ★ Tested Twisticle (right) - con Duncan Steel † | 35m, 4 | Mié 16.º Oct 2019 | |||||
Linked with Alienation. Again not much gear but pretty fun climbing. Committing moves off the dodgy rusty piton but quite fun.
|
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18 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Right) - con sunny | 35m, 4 | Mar 28.º Jun 2022 | |||||
Linked this to Caritas.
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18 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Right) - con Lia Sullivan | 35m, 4 | Dom 2.º Jul 2023 | |||||
This is not a sport route. Dunno why mark changed it from mixed trad to sport
|
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17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (left) | 35m, 3 | Medio | Dom 4.º Dic 2005 | ||||
With Pete. 12 Nov 05 with Mark
|
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17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | Medio | Sáb 2.º Dic 2006 | ||||
Followed dave this time. He had an epic.Like a 2 and a half hour epic!! Then he said he had to go home. He has a blind date!! DAHHHHHHHHHHH.
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17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 12.º Nov 2005 | ||||
Been told by the ethics police to shape up or ship out, so I say goodbye to the treasured onsight (begrudgingly)! Wanted to lead the 18 variant, but was too pumped after Alienation. Nice crux, wasn't entirely sure I was on route, you can't see the FH from below the overhang. Susy 2nded.
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17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 13.º Jul 2008 | ||||
Not too bad, a few runouts and marginal gear in places, but overall pretty good.
|
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17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | Medio | Sáb 18.º Feb 2006 | ||||
18/2/06: 2nd Duncan. 11/2/06: My trad climbing gear, and skills, are rusty.
|
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17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | Medio | Sáb 14.º Oct 2006 | ||||
With Rob
|
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17 | Pr.Asc. ★ Tested Twisticle (left) | 35m, 3 | ★ Buena | Sáb 29.º Oct 2005 | ||||
with Ben
|
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17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | Medio | Sáb 11.º Feb 2006 | ||||
My trad climbing gear, and skills, are rusty.
|
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17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | Medio | Dom 1.º Oct 2006 | ||||
climbed with bolting pack - ugh!
|
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17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | Medio | Sáb 20.º En 2007 | ||||
From ground to top of Caritas in one pitch.
|