Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mar 21.º Mayo 2024 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Twisticle Connection
- con
Makayla .J
1
19
20
2
17
30
3
22
20
Punted first time due to a thumb catch crumbling | 70m, 4 | |||||
Good fun climbing
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Vie 3.º Nov 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence - con Troy McAndrew | 20m, 1 | ★ Buena | ||||
Pretty much a one bolt sport route. I think I plugged like two bits of shit gear just for the mental
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23 | ★★ Sent From Above - con Troy McAndrew | 12m, 5 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Nice bit of climbing just off the side of the clemency rap. Definitely worth a go
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17 ~18 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) - con Anthony Bristow | 35m, 3 | |||||
Cool to try the other way of this variant. Actually felt just as hard as the right side.
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Dom 22.º Oct 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
20 | ★★ Alienation - con Janet | 18m, 2 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Such a great line with heaps of gear.
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Dom 15.º Oct 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas - con Janet | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Cool as mint slice.
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17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) - con Janet | 35m, 3 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
I found this quite neat. Cool features
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19 | ★★ Divergence - con Janet | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Dom 27.º Ag 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence - con jmul | 20m, 1 | ★ Buena | ||||
Clipping the bolt was a bit sketchy it's just out of reach after a decent run-out.
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Vie 25.º Ag 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
17 ~17 |
★★ Clemency
- con
ash and dani
1
17
35m
escalada de primero por
Alex Lawson
Some scary moves around the bolt close to the ground. I grabbed the draw rather than risk the ground fall.
2
17
30m
escalada de primero por
Alex Lawson
1 exciting move near the piton. Worth it for this sequence. Pretty sharp for 16.
3
16
32m
escalada de primero por
Alex Lawson
Pretty cool moves surmounting the overhang. Big finishing corner was exposed, scary, pretty sparse on gear and feels like a real achievement. Not for the faint hearted. | 97m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
An old school sandbag adventure climb that requires more head game and sketchy trad experience than it does muscle. Not for the faint hearted and not for those new to trad. Did pitch 1, 2 and 3.
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Dom 2.º Jul 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas - con Lia Sullivan | 18m, 7 | |||||
18 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Right) - con Lia Sullivan | 35m, 4 | |||||
This is not a sport route. Dunno why mark changed it from mixed trad to sport
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19 | ★★ Divergence - con Lia Sullivan | 20m, 1 | |||||
Was feeling a lil bit psyched out as the grade is higher than what I want for runout choss but then remembered that god has me on top-rope. Once Focusing on the movement and not the fall potential this became pretty chill.
Caritas is absolutely all-time! Felt so nice to be standing on bomber rock compared to the crumbly slab below |
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Lun 3.º Abr 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 |
★★ Clemency
- con
Dave Westby
| 190m | Ni te molestes | ||||
This was an absolute mission, super wandering route, hard to follow and with little to no gear placements. Definitely got lost on this one and turned into an epic! We were on the right track at the summit when we endured the realm of a thousand cuts… the whole route was sketchy as, loose rock everywhere & horrible rope drag bashing through scrub patches. All in all an epic day out!
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Lun 3.º Oct 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence - con Jack Seawright | 20m, 1 | |||||
The relief I felt when I found somewhere to smush gear into after essentially soloing about 15m is indescribable. Shoved 2 cams in for good measure
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Sáb 10.º Sep 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | |||||
Dom 10.º Jul 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★ Buena | ||||
Nearly didn’t see the FH and would have been quite engaged without
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Great rock and pumpy headwall make this classic. If only it were longer
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Jul 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Clemency - con Sophie Lewandowski | 190m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Mar 28.º Jun 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence - con sunny | 20m, 1 | |||||
Crux was awkward and missed some good placements.
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18 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Right) - con sunny | 35m, 4 | |||||
Linked this to Caritas.
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Sáb 19.º Feb 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) - con Tristan Baskerville | 35m, 3 | |||||
I ran it out a bit, but had enough bolts..
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Dom 6.º Feb 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | |||||
18 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Right) | 35m, 4 | |||||
Dom 27.º Jun 2021 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas - con Ian Kotze | 18m, 7 | |||||
19 | ★★ Divergence - con Ian Kotze | 20m, 1 | |||||
Dom 18.º Abr 2021 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Clemency - con Marek | 190m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Pitches 1,2 and 3
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Lun 15.º Feb 2021 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Lancelot - con Wendy Law | 90m | ★ Buena | ||||
Lun 8.º Feb 2021 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 |
★★ Clemency
- con
Wendy Law
1
15
35m
2
16
30m
3
14
32m
| 97m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Vie 27.º Nov 2020 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Clemency | 190m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Led all pitches. The climbing isnt hard but it's typically bold.
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Vie 16.º Oct 2020 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas - con Anna Vo | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Beautiful line. Up there with the best tibro has to offer
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Dom 21.º Jun 2020 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Clemency | 190m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
An adventure with plenty of spice, but really not as bad as I was expecting. The crux felt easier to me than the crux of Lancelot (originally graded 7 😂). Led all pitches, linked 5 & 6, and topped out for the old skool points. However, I really can’t recommend the last 3 pitches, which are really quite vegetated and somewhat loose. Pitch 3 is all time though!
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Jue 5.º Dic 2019 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | |||||
Mié 16.º Oct 2019 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas - con Duncan Steel † | 18m, 7 | ★ Buena | ||||
A similar but slightly easier version of the Aphelion p3 corner.
Lots of body tension required stemming and laybacking left me quite exhausted. Doesn't let up until you hit the anchors.
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Lun 15.º Abr 2019 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Enough protection and a bolt where there is none so a solid climb.
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Sáb 6.º Abr 2019 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Interesting movement with generally good gear, although short. Used to access Caritas.
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18 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Right) | 35m, 4 | |||||
I think that we did the right version...somehow hard to tell.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
This pitch does live up to the hype, though personally I think some of the other lines at the grade at Tibro are arguably better and harder, since they are longer (e.g., Latitudes). I danced around at the crux longer than expected because there was a small bat in the finger crack that kept nipping at my fingers!
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Sáb 23.º Mar 2019 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
18 | ★ Lancelot - con Ryan Siacci, Josh Worley | 90m | |||||
Ryan led and linked P1 & P2, and I took P3 & P4. It was definitely a bold move to call the crux moves grade 7, but then again I'm not sure what the hardest grade was in 1966. I also don't know if I'd rate the crux as hard as 18, but the moves feel harder than they are because of the lack of pro. I know that I'll probably draw criticism from saying this, but I think the pitons on this route should be replaced, as they are badly corroded (are they from 1966?). I also would advocate for a bolted anchor at the top of P3, as the single piton belay is not very confidence inspiring. But then again, there is something to be said for the historical character of the route. In any event, worth doing...once.
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Mié 26.º Dic 2018 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence - con John Pownall | 20m, 1 | |||||
So nice to be back on the rock after a two-month break, and to try new stuff in good company.
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22 | ★★ The Mace - con Antoine Chandonnet | 18m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Quite nice! A little featury and some razor crimps at the crux,but otherwise not too bad at all.
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20 | ★★ Alienation - con Antoine Chandonnet | 18m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
A bit of a pants-filler in some spots. Really needs a bolt between the last bolt and the chains. Perfect rock for it, and absolutely zero pro. I didn’t use my smallest cam on this, so I wouldn’t write it off completely if you don’t have aliens! Nice slabbing!
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17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) - con Antoine Chandonnet | 35m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Thoroughly enjoyed this pitch! Nice pro too, not sure what everyone is talking about! This is Tibro after all.
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Mié 1.º Ag 2018 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas - con Danny | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Friggin awesome line, with some moves that just took my breath away, literally. WOW. Amazing
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Sáb 16.º Dic 2017 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) - con Dave Cook | 35m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Sáb 30.º Sep 2017 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
17 | ★★ Guenevere - con Ryan Siacci, Josh Worley | 90m | |||||
Led and onsighted all pitches. Somehow ended up at the wrong anchor at the top of pitch 2, however, and so pitch 3 was...interesting. We may have gotten the first ascent of this variant finish today. I wouldn't exactly recommend it, unless loose death blocks surrounding marginal thin gear is your thing.
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Dom 3.º Sep 2017 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 |
★★ Clemency
- con
zac
1
escalada de primero por
Zac
2
escalada de primero por
Me
3
escalada de primero por
Zac
4
escalada de primero por
Me
5
escalada de primero por
Me
6
escalada de primero por
Zac
| 190m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
A really enjoyable route with adequate pro the whole way up (for a confident climber). The third pitch is definitely the standout, but all the pitches were good (we linked 4 and 5 by going straight up near the end of the 4th).
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16 | ★★ Clemency | 190m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Mié 23.º Ag 2017 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Dreadnought - con Dave Cook | 380m | ★ Buena | ||||
An adventurous day out. Went off route in a few bits but made it to the top in one piece. Ended up doing part of variant finish in a massive 60+ meter pitch.
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Mié 17.º Mayo 2017 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 |
★★ Clemency
1
escalada de primero por
Me
2
escalada de primero por
Shabbi
3
escalada de primero por
Myself
4
escalada de primero por
Shabbi
5
escalada de primero por
I
6
escalada de primero por
Shabbi
| 190m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Ahhh feels good to be back on Tibro trad! Way less runout than I was expecting, but the gear was shoddy at times. Loved/hated the "tricky step-left" on p1. So hard to leave that mega-awesome-newhome-glory jug. Some nice climbing through the 2nd pitch and particularly the 3rd pitch corner! Better gear here than I was expecting, also. Awesome fun! Cheers for the day Ryan.
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Sáb 25.º Feb 2017 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
15 |
★ Lancelot
- con
Melissa Schulz
1
escalada de primero por
Callum
2
escalada de primero por
Callum
| 90m | Medio | ||||
Didn't have time to finish. I found the protection to be sparse... there seemed to be plenty of flaring cracks with misleading constrictions. Took ages to get the gear I was comfortable with. I'll go back and do it again properly. Just with a fresh head: didn't do last two pitches
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Lun 30.º En 2017 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Getting to that first FH was thin and heady! Lovely route. Good to get the head in for runout slab trad again. Linked w/ Tested Twisticle.
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17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Linked w/ Divergence w/ double ropes, so had major rope weight by the last 6m. Was feeling sketchy in the last steep section above the final ledge, but pulled through for the grand finale. Totally loved the hand traverse!
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2017 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
18 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Right) | 35m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Vie 17.º Jun 2016 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 |
★ Dreadnought
- con
Ryan Siacci
1
escalada de primero por
Ryan
2
escalada de primero por
Heleena
3
escalada de primero por
Heleena
4
escalada de primero por
Heleena
5
escalada de primero por
Ryan
6
escalada de primero por
Heleena
7
escalada de primero por
Ryan
8
escalada de primero por
Heleena
9
escalada de primero por
Ryan
10
escalada de primero por
Ryan
11
escalada de primero por
Heleena
12
escalada de primero por
Heleena
| 380m | Medio | ||||
Lun 12.º Oct 2015 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Mace | 18m, 2 | ★ Buena | ||||
One thin pull, Nice route but not as fun and sustained as it's neighbour.
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20 | ★★ Alienation | 18m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Cracking little route. Well worth doing.
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Sáb 18.º Oct 2014 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Best bit rock on tibro !!!
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Sáb 17.º Ag 2013 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Capped off a great day after going up Aphelion to Halfway House and getting spanked on some 24. Tried some moves on TSVMR on the way down which planted the seed to come back to eventually send it
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Dom 19.º Mayo 2013 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Dreadnought | 380m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Sáb 26.º Mar 2011 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Awesome climb, awesome moves, awesome position. Climbed on the way down from Halfway House.
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Dom 7.º Nov 2010 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
engaging little route, with Linds
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Sáb 10.º En 2009 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Cheers Ro for giving me the best pitch on Tibro!!! Laughing the whole way and could not wipe the smile off my face.
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19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Dom 13.º Jul 2008 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Not too bad, a few runouts and marginal gear in places, but overall pretty good.
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Mar 17.º Jun 2008 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Mace | 18m, 2 | |||||
20 | ★★ Alienation | 18m, 2 | |||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | |||||
17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | |||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | |||||
Mar 24.º Jul 2007 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
20 | ★★ Alienation | 18m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Dom 28.º En 2007 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★ Buena | ||||
this time with Ross
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
this time with Ross
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Vie 29.º Dic 2006 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★ Buena | ||||
Sáb 2.º Dic 2006 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | Medio | ||||
Followed dave this time. He had an epic.Like a 2 and a half hour epic!! Then he said he had to go home. He has a blind date!! DAHHHHHHHHHHH.
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Sáb 18.º Feb 2006 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
18/2/06: 2nd Duncan. 11/2/06: 2nd Duncan. 16/2/03: Pushing three stars I reckon. Very classic. With the crux on RP's, it reminded me of Arapiles.
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17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | Medio | ||||
18/2/06: 2nd Duncan. 11/2/06: My trad climbing gear, and skills, are rusty.
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Sáb 11.º Feb 2006 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | Medio | ||||
My trad climbing gear, and skills, are rusty.
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19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
11/2/06: 2nd Duncan. 16/2/03: Pushing three stars I reckon. Very classic. With the crux on RP's, it reminded me of Arapiles.
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Sáb 28.º En 2006 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | Medio | ||||
Worth a star.
|
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20 | ★★ Alienation | 18m, 2 | ★ Buena | ||||
Very nice
|
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22 | ★★ The Mace | 18m, 2 | ★ Buena | ||||
realy nice climbing. Still waiting for the hard moves
|
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Dom 30.º Oct 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★ Buena | ||||
Dec 4 with Pete. Oct 30 with Mark and Horney. Cruisy climbing, average pro
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Mié 6.º Jul 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Dreadnought | 380m | Medio | ||||
With NZ Mike. After dreaming about doing this for the last 4 years, I finally got my teeth into it, although it's not a climb I'd be in a hurry to repeat. Not a lot of gear needed - I took all my hexes with me & didn't use 1! Just cams (up to #4) & Aliens/Zeros and some nuts. Got to use my new #3 Zero for the first time and then lost my brandnew Reverso when it got away from me at a ledge. Took a small fall on P10, fortunately I was in a chimney & ended up sideways level with my gear. We only got off route twice on 12 pitches!
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Vie 15.º Abr 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | |||||
20 | ★★ Alienation | 18m, 2 | |||||
22 | ★★ The Mace | 18m, 2 | |||||
Dom 6.º Mar 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Clemency | 190m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Lead the first three pitches with Phil, so I could see for next time where it goes and where the remaining pitches go. The third pitch is fecking awesome! Not a climb for grade 16 climbers! Should be taken very serious.
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Dom 28.º Mar 2004 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
15 18 | ★ Lancelot | 90m | ★ Buena | ||||
Not much good gear but still fun
|
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Sáb 27.º Mar 2004 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
15 18 | ★ Lancelot | 90m | Medio | ||||
linked 1+2 OS, then 2nd the 3rd.
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15 18 | ★ Lancelot | 90m | |||||
Dom 4.º Mayo 2003 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Clemency | 190m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
scary old classic - typical Tibro
|
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Dom 2.º Mar 2003 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
15 18 | ★ Lancelot | 90m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Cameron Fairbairn lead the first two pitches in one push and I lead the second two pitches together. This is a great climb except for the exposed crux which is unprotectable. A little caution here is needed to surmount the crux.
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Dom 16.º Feb 2003 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Pushing three stars I reckon. Very classic. With the crux on RP's, it reminded me of Arapiles.
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Sáb 26.º Oct 2002 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Clemency | 190m | |||||
Simulclimbed with Cam Fairbairn
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16 | ★ Dreadnought | 380m | |||||
Simulclimbed with Cam Fairbairn
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