Mont King is one of the tallest continuous pieces of climbable rock on the Eardley escarpment at about 90m total height.
This cliff is currently (Spring 2011) closed by the NCC.
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.
https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".
The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.
Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.
The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing
While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.
At the intersection of Kelly Road and rue de la Montagne there is a gravel trail heading up the escarpment. Follow this trail a short way until you can see a stream, shortly before crossing a small trail will branch off to the right and go up some concrete steps. This trail will come back to the stream and follow with the stream to the left for a bit, up a few feet of rock, then it will cut back rightwards away from the stream. Continue on the trail, and the cliff should come into view after a few minutes walking through the woods. Scramble over the usual talus field to the base of the cliff, which brings you out near the base of the nose.
Rocketman has fixed anchors, allowing for rappels. The first one is about 32m (but to easy terrain) and the 2 lower ones go fine on a 60m rope. Otherwise there is a descent path to climbers-right of the cliff.
No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.
★★ Ron's Climb 5.8 - Ron's Climb
★ Rocketman 5.4 - Chimney start of Rocketman
★ Rocketman 5.4 - Rocket Man - pitch 3
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