Ayuda

Schiefer Tod

Estacionalidad

E
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Resumen

This north-east face has the most to offer for climbers looking for routes in the 9th grade UIAA and above. Don't miss the easier classic namesake traverse, though!

Descripción

The crag consists of two massive overhangs with high-end routes on the left ("Riders of Doom") and right ("I Bleed Black"), and a relatively vertical, sometimes even slabby part in the middle.

The old traverse goes up to the beginning of the right overhang and then pulls out diagonally left under the roof and on top of the left overhang to a belay, crossing the popular 9th grade routes like "Totenbrett" and "Gelber Blaser" in the process.

At the left end, just avoiding the roof, are the two easiest non-traverse lines, "Leichenschmaus" and "Abgesang"; the latter has to be protected with nuts and cams.

The far right route of the crag is, interestingly enough, another traverse ("Letzte Instanz"), going up around the right overhang and traversing to the left along its edge.

There is lots of loose rock in the lower part of most of the routes, but the rock quality gets better with the height.

Restricciones heredado de Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Acceso

Drive from Doos towards Behringersmühle. After 1.4 km, there is a small parking bay on your right, directly opposite a lonely house on the other side of the river. From the right end of the bay, a forest road leads uphill. Follow it for a few meters and then branch off right onto another forest road, which leads directly to the crag.

GPS: 11.29973, 49.80217

Ética heredado de Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Etiquetas

Vías

Añadir vía(s) Añadir croquis Reordenar Edición en bloque Convertir grados
Grado Vía

PAL: Stefan Löw, 1995

PAL: Holger Längner, 2009

PAL: Markus Bock, 2013

PAL: Markus Bock, 2012

PAL: Kevin Schatz, 2017

PAL: Kai Bunke, 2012

PAL: Kai Bunke, 2012

Kombi aus Totmacher und Still alive aussteigen

PA: verm. Sarah Seeger

PAL: Stefan Löw, 1999

PAL: Stefan Löw, 1995

PAL: Stefan Löw, 2007

PAL: Joshua Schulz, 2012

PA: Julius Bär, 1932

Equip: Markus Bock, 2012

PAL: Moritz Welt, 23 Nov 2022

PAL: Markus Bock, 2013

PAL: Stefan Löw, 2007

¿Lo sabías?

¿Sabías que puedes crear una cuenta para registrar, monitorizar y compartir tus ascensiones? Hay miles de escaladores y escaladoras que lo hacen.

Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Autor(es): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Fecha: 2023

número ISBN: 9783938680490

Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Autor(es): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Fecha: 2020

Volume 2 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6790 routes on 387 crags - the complete work, including Volume 1, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Autor(es): Sebastian Schwertner

Fecha: 2021

Band 1 des Gesamtwerkes für den nördlichen Teil der fränkischen Schweiz - auf 584 Seiten werden 6100 Routen vorgestellt. Zusammen mit Band 2 ergeben das mehr als 1150 Seiten genaue Informationen zu den über 12.600 Routen des Nördliche Frankenjura …

Alojamientos cercanos more Ocultar

Compartir contenido

Dom 14 Mayo
Echa un vistazo a lo que está ocurriendo en Schiefer Tod.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文