Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | ||
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Around Nairobi Lukenya Main Face | |||||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Drowning in the Shallow End
It has to be admitted that this is a little short on pro, but it is excellent and the few who have led it say provided it is approached with calm and stealth, the need for pro is secondary. Begin 6m right of Bandstand and climb easily for 25m to the right-hand and slightly higher nettle tree. From here up directly to distinct grey ledge at 6m. Awkward move left 1.5m, then up 3m before trending rightwards until directly beneath obvious bulging wall. Straight up bulge (crux), and steep wall above 7.5m to prominent groove. From this point pro is excellent. Climb groove and slightly left to mantleshelf move just below top. Finish up steep wall rightwards on good holds. 2020 edit: It turns out the need for pro wasn't secondary for some - somewhere around 2000 a bolted anchor was added at the grey ledge, with 3 more bolts on the second pitch - the first just above the awkward move left and up and the next two spaced out above. PA: Iain Allan, Philip Winter & Clive Ward, 1990 | 55m | |||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Promenade
Start at foot of face to right of main slab in open groove.
PA: Michael Adams, Peter Jenkins & Alan Owen, 1958 | 66m | |||
HVS UKT:5a | ★ The Last Voyage of The Titanic
From cave belay move up left to brown streak in groove. Climb this direct to steep brown-coloured wall. Up this with ease to overhang. The overhang is split by a prominent narrow ledge, which is gained from the left. Bolt. Move up trending rightwards to top of the cliff. PA: Herve & Nathalie Sergeraert, 1990 | 25m | |||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ The Seventh Wave
One of Lukenia's best with a ripper finish. Step left from belay and straight up wall on right of brown streak passing a good thread belay/flake at 12m. Above is a bulging yellow wall which is surmounted from the left by a tricky mantleshelf move onto a good ledge below steepening wall. Step right and move up on good holds until flakes (bolt on left), until forced out unabashedly rightwards and up to finish. PA: Iain Allan, Philip Winter & Clive Ward, 1990 | 25m | |||
Around Nairobi Lukenya Archway | |||||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Subway
Start 5m left of the Tramlines gully below a steep wall with a scoop above. Climb wall for 4m then delicately into scoop, and up to small flake. Stand on this with difficulty (crux), and up to good holds. Continue to ledge. Directly up from ledge to abseil bush. Or step down and right across ledge and ascend wall some 2m right of big slash in cliff. PA: Barry Cliff, Collette Brown & David Lockwood, 1962 | 20m | |||
VS UKT:5a | Junction
Start just right of big fig tree on boulder below steep slab. Climb this for a few unprotected moves to a ledge at 9m below small overhang. Bolt below overhang. Move up wall left of bolt (crux), up overhang and easier wall above to finish. PA: Michael Adams, Ron Searle & Peter Le Pelley, 1960 | 30m | |||
HVS UKT:5a | Blue Train
About 6m right of Junction there is a chimney crack above the ground. Climb easily up this to the righthand end of the Junction ledge, some 2m right of bolt. Move up right above obvious "pigeon-hole" (crux), then straight up wall above. PA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1988 | 25m | |||
VS UKT:5a | ★★ Boiler Plate
It has been said that one member of the Mountain Club makes the journey to Lukenia once a fortnight solely to do battle with this little beauty, If he succeeds on one safari, the only certainty is that it will defeat him on his next Originally climbed by traversing in from the Junction ledge on the left, parties in recent years have preferred a more direct approach. Start 3m left of Bandana at a "pigeon-hole" about a meter off the ground. Climb wall by "pigeon-hole" and step left at 3m to diagonal crack rising rightwards. Move right and over the overlap at 5m, directly above start. Climb face above moving slightly right to ledge. Mantle shelf up leftwards to ledge below black streak, and climb delicately up slab (crux), on right of bolt to top. Original route was to climb up to shallow cave and the move up rightwards. PA: Michael Adams & Alan Owen, 1959 | 25m, 1 | |||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Golden Rivet
This route ascends the steep wall and arete between Boiler Plate and Bandana. Start just left of Bandana where a difficult move leads left to a good hold. Move straight up to where pro can be placed above right end of overlap. Step right and up steep lichen wall to good jug. Mantle shelf. Move up right and ascend wall left of grassy Bandana gully with difficulty. PA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1988 | 25m | |||
Around Nairobi Lukenya Egyptian | |||||
HVS UKT:5a | ★ Death of Disco
Between Sweet Fanny Adams and Scarab is a wall topped by a hanging block. There is a recess at the base of this wall which is climbed to a pigeon-hole. Step left at 3m and climb until level with a bolt on the right. Traverse right past this, to the bottom of the hanging block and easier ground. Straight up the wall above on jugs. PA: Clive Ward & Philip Winter, 1989 | 25m | |||
Around Nairobi Lukenya The Cemetery | |||||
HVS UKT:5a | ★ Swog
This route is a 8m boulder problem at the top of a nondescript slab, which is located some 8m left of the start of Cemetery Corner. The lower slab leads easily to the first bolt, and the route continues straight up past a second bolt to the top. Near the top it is difficult staying clear of Tombstone. Worth doing but the climb would be far superior with one less bolt. PA: Ulf Carlsson & Nicolas Ganzin, 1991 | 16m, 2 | |||
VS UKT:5a | Norman Bates
This climb is basically an improved direct finish to Cemetery Corner. Ascend Cemetery Corner until the end of the chimney and the obvious roof. Instead of moving out left, continue up the steep polished wall just left of corner to overhang. Surmount this right-wards. PA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1977 | 22m | |||
Around Nairobi Lukenya Upper Cliffs | |||||
HVS UKT:5a AU:17 | ★★★ The Lizard
What a joy this old classic is for the way it sorts out Lukenia climbers who can't get up cracks. There used to be a tree 9m up, which has now disappeared, adding to the quality of the climbs. Begin by thin crack in main bay where three or four technical moves leads to the overhang. Traverse left 1m and up flake to tricky move left to ledge (where the tree used to be). Move up a few feet and crux move into crack on right which is climbed to easier laybacking. Move left to gully and abseil cable. PA: Barry Cliff & Anne-Marie Weber, 1961 | 23m | |||
E1 UKT:5b AU:18 | ★★ Ride Like the Wind
All that is great about Lukenia climbing. Start about 6m right of Gone With The Wind where there is a bolt some 4m up cliff. The title says it all. A gently overhanging wall which does not let up for 20m. Never desperate but tricky low down near the bolt. Four lunges follow to an easier but thrilling overhang and bolt belay on the wall above same as for Gone With the Wind. Either lower off here or climb unexciting wall above to top. It has become a classic and deservedly so. PA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1989 | 43m | |||
Around Nairobi Lukenya Gumshoe | |||||
{FR} 5c | ★★ The Accidental Tourist
Originally climbed in order to show a visiting continental party that small wires can fake you a long way, and bolts are not always necessary. Ironically the Hot Rock team didn't know this had been climbed on wires and accidentally bolted it. It is important to climb this route the correct way and not cheat leftwards only the Finis jugs. Because of this some might say it's a little forced, but this does not detract from the experience. The climb Finis ascends the jug-covered wall 1-2m right of the main corner. This superb route climbs the steep face some 3m right of corner. Start from ledge system some 4.5m up from base of cliff. Some 4m right of corner there are two obvious scoops and the climb starts between them. Up on small holds 6m to prominent overlap. Step right and climb direct to welcoming jug. Straight up on better holds to top. On trad gear originally graded E1 5a. With bolts the sport grade applies. PA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1990 | 23m, 5 | |||
Around Nairobi Lukenya Nemesis | |||||
{FR} 5c | ★ Smooth
Start about 5 feet to the right of a flake-like boulder that is separated from the main face. Move up and left to the crux at the second bolt showing faith in friction. After that, left into a scoop and then up to rail. After the last bolt there is about a 5 metre run-out to the anchors, up and left on easy ground but potentially scary and dangerous for beginners. PA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 2000 | 20m, 4 | |||
Around Nairobi Lukenya The Prow | |||||
HVS UKT:5a | ★ Velindra
Start in orange corner to right of Leaper, below obvious thin crack leading up to left.
PA: Iain Allan & B. Thomas, 1973 PAL: Ian Thorpe & Emmanuel F, 2023 | 30m | |||
Around Nairobi Lukenya Forgotten Face | |||||
HVS UKT:5a | Slipway
On the left side of this cliff, and slightly lower than the other part is a slab leading to an obvious corner capped by a roof. Easily up slab to corner which is reached by climbing an initial bulge (crux). Move up to where a hand-traverse leads leftwards to finish. Originally an aid route which finished aiding through the overhang above on pegs. PA: Martin Harris & Dick Metcalfe, 1967 | 20m | |||
Around Nairobi Lukenya Nettle Tree | |||||
VS UKT:5a | ★ Graunch
This old route begins 6m right of The Rood. Hard moves up to bolt on right. Step left (crux) and up to easier ground. Step right and up groove to ledge. Traverse right to leftwards rising crack. Follow this to fig tree. PA: Tony Bennet & party, 1959 | 25m | |||
VS UKT:5a | Guinevere
Start on right-hand piece of the broken block. Go delicately over the overlap trending right to the obvious pocket at 7.5m. Cross easier ground and up to nettle tree, then right to the overhung corner. Up this and exit right by the tree on good jugs to a ledge. Finish up the face above. PA: Philip Winter & Steve McCormick, 1990 | 28m | |||
Around Nairobi Lukenya Agama Wall | |||||
HVS UKT:5a | Frogs In the Wind
Start 1m right of the demarcation line of lichen and dark rock, where the gully begins to rise. An obvious red-coloured hold is some 4m above the ground. Straight up on thin holds to easier ground at 6m. Continue to top. PA: Iain Allan, Clive Ward & Magnus Karlsen, 1989 | 17m | |||
Around Nairobi Lukenya Practice Wall | |||||
VS UKT:5a AU:16 | ★ Number Two
Start some 20m right of Number One at two parallel rock faults. Climb left-hand fault 4.5m then move to right- hand fault and follow to top. PA: Grading Committee, 1959 | 16m | |||
Around Nairobi Hell's Gate Main Wall Left end | |||||
HVS UKT:5a | Goliath Direct
No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact) | ||||
Around Nairobi Hell's Gate Main Wall Central wall | |||||
VS AU:17 | ★★ Stiletto
The highest section of the Main Wall is steep, pale and overhangs at the top. Just right of the top an obvious gully descends the cliff for 30 m. The climb starts immediately below this in a steep groove to the left of a grey column. Pegs should not be carried on this route.
PA: Iain Allan & Chris Wilson, 1968 | 120m | |||
Around Nairobi Hell's Gate Main Wall Right end | |||||
VS AU:18 | Days of Future Passed
Start about 12 m right of Stiletto at thin crack.
PA: Dave Cheesmond & Iain Allan, 1975 | 120m | |||
Around Nairobi Hell's Gate Fischer's Cliff | |||||
{US} 5.10a | ★★ 2.5
Begin just around the left side of the arete from Bouboulinas Street. Climb the left-leaning corner up a variety of moves to a fixed pin at 5m. Move into a rightward layback and climb to 10m. Move around arete to the anchors of Bouboulinas Street on right. Poor protection; best done on toprope from Bouboulinas Street. | 13m | |||
Around Nairobi Hell's Gate Fischer's Tower | |||||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ The Groove
The prominent groove capped by a triangular block on the face overlooking the entrance to the gorge. Climb groove to its end then step right into crack. Up this a few feet then move left across lip of overhang and straight up to summit. PA: Martin Harris & Ian Howell, 1967 | 37m | |||
HVS UKT:5a | The Bulge
No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact) | ||||
Around Nairobi Hell's Gate Tot Cliff | |||||
{AU} 18 | Late Monsoon
30 m right of Black Panther. | ||||
{AU} 18 | Driving Rain
60 m right of Black Panther. | ||||
Around Nairobi Hell's Gate Springs Wall | |||||
HVS UKT:5a | Spider
From the boulder pillar of Shadow climb directly up (V+) to the base a very obvious off-width crack immediately right of pitch 2 of Shadow (15m). The wide slabby groove just right of the off-width crack is climbed; move right halfway up this, then left to corner where several fine moves left through overhangs lead to a poor stance (25m). The rotten upper section can either be climbed direct or by moving left to finish on Shadow (20m); belay 20m higher. PA: O Nilssen & Andrew Wielochowski, 1905 | 60m | |||
{SA} 22 A2 | Infidel
First impressions are that the grade is 22 A2, but we would be happy for a second ascent party to downgrade the difficulty. Will write up description, but anyone wanting to repeat the route, can contact me at any time. Three pitches, right-hand side of Springs Wall, through the left side of overhangs. PA: Alex Fiksman & Julian Wright, 2011 | 77m | |||
Around Nairobi Frog Bookhouse Cliffs | |||||
17 | ★ Bazooka
This jamming exercise climbs the obvious narrowing crack in the north lacing wall 30' right of 'Thick and Thin'. Historic route number: 4 PA: Barry, Niall MacHugh & Iain Allan, 1986 | ||||
18 | ★ Asylum Years
Around the corner to the right is a chimney leading to a roof with a long fig tree root. Climb the chimney to just below the chockstone at 15', and move out onto the left wall. Continue over bulge, moving leftwards to a bolt above. A technical move (crux) leads past the bolt to the top. Historic route number: 7 PA: Niall MacHugh & John Lamb, 1991 | 2 | |||
18 | ★ Broken Arrow
This route climbs the left wall of this cliff, and starts at a point where the wall bulges by a crack at 10'. Climb the crack and step left to bolt. Move up (crux), then step left when possible into break. Follow this more easily to top. Historic route number: 11 PA: Iain Allan, Nico Michaelides & Bill Budenberg, 1992 | 1 | |||
Around Nairobi Frog Frog Buttress | |||||
18 | ★★ Esprit
Immediately right of the chimney is a steep wall with a bolt at 12'. Climb directly to bolt and move right to avoid bulge. Up and step left above bulge, then straight up past small tree. Move up and step left across chimney into an awkward blind crack which leads up, then right to finish. A direct finish from the lower bulge was later added by Uif Carlsson 7/2/94. Historic route number: 17 PA: Claude Dufourmanteile, 1986 | 2 | |||
18 | Paris Blues
Only the first 12' of this climb is [18]. Start right of 'Esprit' beneath a shallow groove. Climb awkwardly to bolt. Above the bolt step right, and easily up to horizontal crack. Climb straight up and follow thin crack to top. Historic route number: 18 PA: Claude & Antoine Dufourmantelie, 1985 | 2 | |||
Around Nairobi Frog Sailor's Buttress | |||||
18 | ★★★ Trader Horn
To the right is an obvious leftwards slanting crack which rises up a steep wall. Climb crack to where it bulges at 20'. Over bulge (crux) to good holds. Reverse and move up rightwards to ledge. Step left and up good rock to top. Historic route number: 37 PA: Iain Allan, Ian Howell & Kathleen Sebastian, 1992 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Aquarius
This route takes the clean crack to the right of 'Trader Horn' and 'Percolator'. Climb corner crack for 20' then follow crack left (crux), and up to ledge. Finish up crack above. Historic route number: 39 PA: Ian Howell & Kathleen Sebastian, 1992 | ||||
Around Nairobi Frog CB Buttress | |||||
17 | ★★ Power Cut
Start at chimney about 20' right of 'Freebie'. Climb chimney using right wall to large ledge. Climb corner crack above until it prominently swings steeply up left. Up this crack to small ledge on left. Step across right above overhang and up to top. Historic route number: 41a PA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1997 | ||||
17 | ★★ Ragged Glory
Towards the right end of the crag is a large fig tree. To the left of the tree is a lichen-covered buttress with a wide crack on its left. This climb takes the right edge of the buttress. Start below and just to the left of the wide crack. Climb the wall for 12' then traverse left to gain the arete (thread runner). Move delicately around the arete and up to a large ledge. Climb the slab above on its right edge to the top. Historic route number: 44 PA: Niall MacHugh & Jeff Mariner, 1992 | ||||
18 | Bad Habits Are Deeply Rooted
At the extreme right end of 'CB Buttress', is an obvious crack with a tree root. Climb the crack up to a small tree, and continue until it fades. Step left and ascend on good holds straight to the top of the pinnacle. Historic route number: 47 PA: Uif Carlsson & Rob Denny, 1992 | ||||
17 | ★★ Lafayette
Five metres left of 'A Lie of the Mind' there is a recess at the base of the buttress. Start at recess (bolts will be seen above). Climb bulging wall on right for 10' then move leftwards up break to bolt. Good moves straight up middle of cliff to top. Historic route number: 48a PA: Nicolas Ganzin & Jess Grunblatt, 1996 | 2 | |||
Around Nairobi Frog Archway Crag | |||||
18 | Nose Down
To the right of the arch, there is a red buttress. This route takes the centre of this buttress. Start with the finger-crack at the bottom of the pillar, and climb 15' to the first bolt. Continue up past small tree to second bolt, and up steeply on small holds to top. Historic route number: 54 PA: Ulf Carlsson & Nicolas Ganzin, 1992 | 2 | |||
Around Nairobi Frog Target Buttress | |||||
17 | ★ Nuclear Arms
Some nice climbing but it leads nowhere. Quite strenuous with excellent protection. The corner to the right of 'Making Movies' has a fig tree almost at the top. Climb the chimney until an awkward step right can be made. Move right on underclings to a slanting leftwards crack, and up this (crux), to finish. Historic route number: 62 PA: Iain Allan & Geoff Broome, 1986 | ||||
18 | ★ Sultans Of Swing
Start as for 'Shock The Monkey'. Ascend this route past first two bolts to crack. Finish easily up this. Historic route number: 67 PA: Niall MacHugh, Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1993 | 2 | |||
18 | ★★ Congo
Much better than it looks. This route climbs the groove/ corner in the middle of the bay to the right of the big buttress of the previous routes. Start directly below groove. Climb wall to start of groove, then straight up past two bolts to small roof. Pass this and climb crack above to top. Historic route number: 68 PA: Iain Allan, 1992 | 2 | |||
17 | ★★★ Naked Edge
One of the first classics at Frog, which has aged gracefully. This route takes the left edge of the cliff on the right of the 'Congo' bay. Start below a steep dark wall, which is climbed up slightly rightwards, then back left to a prominent small fig tree at 25'. Up through the tree onto the wall above, and climb up leftwards to a point below a bolt. Move up leftwards (crux) to the 'edge', which is followed to the top. Historic route number: 70 PA: Ian Howell & Claude Dufourmantelle, 1986 | 1 | |||
18 | ★ Chirac The Monster
Left of 'Quisling' there is a yellow wall with an arch which rises up rightwards. Start at right side of yellow wall below obvious overhanging blocks at 20'. Climb up past two bolts, then step right and move up over blocks to ledge. Step left and straight up to belay tree. Historic route number: 70d PA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1995 | 2 | |||
Around Nairobi Frog Rio Wall | |||||
18 | Enter The Dragon
About 20' right of the previous route is an obvious offwidth crack. Climb crack to the block belay on 'Here Be Dragons', then finish up this route by climbing the crack above. Historic route number: 78 PA: Lee Cunningham & Steve McCormick, 1992 | ||||
17 | ★ Here Be Dragons
In the centre of the cliff is an obvious corner crack which splits at 15'. Climb crack then layback leftwards until it is possible to pull up onto the block. A belay helps alleviate rope drag here. Climb crack above to top. Historic route number: 79 PA: Iain Allan & Nico Michaelides, 1992 | ||||
18 | ★★★ The Liberator
Deservedly popular, a superb route which is an excellent introduction to harder Frog climbing. Start 15' right of the 'Here Be Dragons' corner beneath a steep wall with a thin crack at 10'. Climb to the crack and continue up ieftwards, making a delicate step left onto the slab (bolt above on right). Move up past a second bolt, step right and up to crack. Follow the crack past the tree to the top. Historic route number: 80 PA: Iain Allan & Nico Michaelides, 1992 | 2 | |||
18 | ★★★ The Liberator (alternate finish)
Start as for 'The Liberator', and follow the route to the point before stepping left onto the slab. Continue straight up right of the bolts on the face to the finishing crack. Historic route number: 80a PA: Nicolas Cofman, 1993 | 1 | |||
Around Nairobi Frog Rothschild's Buttress | |||||
18 | ★★★ Moby Dick
A superb route between 'Plummet' and 'Maggie' is a small buttress with a bolt at 20'. Climb directly up this buttress past the bolt (crux), to a ledge. Step right and follow groove up to bulging final wall. Move awkwardly up this to top. Historic route number: 89 PA: Ian Howell & Kathleen Sebastian, 1992 | 1 | |||
Around Nairobi Nzaui | |||||
{AU} 18 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange
100meters of bliss on the left side of Nzaui - the big orange corner. Scramble up the initial slabs on the far right for about 40m to get to below the headwall. From here climb up a short steep wall for 3m on the left end and move left and drop down onto a big grassy platform.
Great protection which just appears where needed. Standard Kenyan bush climbing rack up to DMM No4, less the panga and doom. Descent - First party walked to further up to the base of the slabs above and traversed (climbers) left to a gully where a short (in height) game path leads to a bigger path down the gully. A better option might be to either - Abseil off the belay trees. or Climb/scramble/bushwack directly to the left of the final tree onto the top of the orange face and move left and abseil down the obvious chimney left of the climb. PA: A. Fiksman (fiks) & climbingfish, 27 Feb 2022 | 140m, 3 | |||
Mt Kenya Nelion and Batian | |||||
{UIAA} 6 | Diamond Couloir
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{UIAA} 6 | Southern Slabs
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{UIAA} 6 | Diamond Buttress orig
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{UIAA} 6 | Equator
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{UIAA} 6 | Diamond Buttress direct
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{UIAA} 6 | Mediterranean
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{UIAA} 6 | Untravelled World
Season: Mid-December to February. Time: 15 hours. This daring route is one of the most serious under- takings on the mountain. Start from Two Tarn Hut. A very narrow ice gully leads fromthe upper part of the Tyndall Glacier towards the left edge of the main serac barrier of the Forel Glacier. Climb this fully for four difficult pitches until an exposed traverse right allows one to gain a ramp, cutting rightwards through the seracs to the lowers snowfields of the glacier. If this ramp is not present the serac barrier could perhaps be bypassed on the left. On the first ascent an excellent bivouac site was found in the bergschrund on the left. Climb the slopes above to the highest point of the Forel, which can actually appear as a tiny snowfield in its own right. An intricate mixed pitch leads to the upper slopes, and further mixed climbing trending slightly right, leads to the upper slope of the South-West Ridge some 20 m from the summit. PA: R. Barton & D. Morris, 1978 | ||||
{UIAA} 6 | Misty Morning Couloir
Season: Probably best during June to October. The season is critical as the foot of the couloir is rarely linked to the Tyndall Glacier. Standard: VI. The first ascent party felt the first two pitches warranted Scottish V. Time: 9 hours climbing time. A bivouac was spent in bergschrund. This couloir, which might be better described as an icicle, lies to the left of The Untravelled World Route, and joins the Tyndall Glacier with the extreme left side of the Forel Glacier. The first two pitches are very steep. The ice then becomes easier angled and in five more pitches provides an exit right onto the main Forel. The bergschrund bivouac cave of The Untravelled World is then reached, and this route is followed to the summit. PA: A. Hyslop & J. Tinker, 1980 | ||||
{UIAA} 6 | Northern Slabs
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{UIAA} 6 | North Gate
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{UIAA} 6 | Eastern Groove of Nelion
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{UIAA} 6 | NE face of Nelion
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{UIAA} 6 | East Face of Nelion
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{UIAA} 6 | ESE face of Nelion
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{UIAA} 6 | Grand Traverse
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Mt Kenya Thomson's Flake | |||||
{UIAA} 6 | Only Route
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Mt Kenya Point Melhuish | |||||
{UIAA} 6 | South East Face
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HVS UKT:5a | Frozen Rainbow
Pitch 1 Blocky start moving left towards sheer face. Make fun moves up rail on steep wall using crack on right side until you move over top to platform. Terrifying on FA thanks to wobbling death bloc which has now been kindly removed by second. Pitch 2 Make relatively easy moves up, trending left using crack on right for gear. Move over top into “The Dance Arena” and belay at a convenient spot to your liking. Pitch 3 An unlikely route takes you left over some challenging smooth slabby climbing where you need to earn you gear. Could be described as a tad run out. Trend left and then move up to below overhang and traverse right on large ledge. We would advise moving around first corner to larger belay area to set up better for pitch 4. Pitch 4 Straight up from belay with multiple options available depending on your preference for moisture. Continue straight through even wetter section until you come over ledge to 4th class section which takes you to the top. Options to belay at top of crux or higher up. PA: R.J.M. Alhadeff & S.J. van Rooijen, 9 Mar | 4 | |||
Mt Kenya Point John | |||||
{UIAA} 6 A2 | North West Arete
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{UIAA} 6 | Quo Vadis
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Mt Kenya Arthur's seat | |||||
{UIAA} 6 | Styx
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Mt Kenya Midget Peak | |||||
{UIAA} 6 | North Face
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Mt Kenya Point Peter | |||||
{UIAA} 6 A1 | Window Ridge
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Mt Kenya The Temple | |||||
{UIAA} 6 | Ricochette
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Mt Ololokwe area Ololokwe main face | |||||
VS UKT:5a | ★★★ The Shnoz
See trip report here: https://www.mck.or.ke/new-climbs/the-shnoz-5-9-330m-at-ololokwe/ Alternate direct start: climb straight up to the palm tree just beneath the start of the third pitch, following the obvious nose that joins the feature above. 5.8x, second half of pitch unprotected but solid rock. Avoids the traverse pitch. (FA: James Mixon, Nicolle Richards, December 2019) PA: Vadim Kuklov, climbingfish & Nick Quintong, 2017 | 330m | |||
E1 UKT:5a | Brothers in Arms
An adventurous climb, generally on reasonable rock, that could be done without a bivouac by a fast party. Walking in on the traverse path from Sabache Eco Camp you arrive just above a broad saddle between the main cliff and a small outlying hill. Head up on faint paths directly up to pale, easy-angled slabs at the foot of the face. Scramble up the slabs, traverse L into trees, start about 10m further L, on a shady ledge below a R-facing flake crack.
(description via Andrew Wielochowski ) PA: Jameel Chaudry & Agil Chaudry, 1987 | 380m | |||
HVS UKT:5a | Not all handholds (are your friends)
Likely has been a repeat ascent of Brothers in Arms. Repeating groups should be able to complete the climb without an overnight bivouac. (Editors note – One person who has climbed it twice bivvied ¾ of the way up both times)
PA: Steven Price Brown, Duncan Francis & Jenny Tracy, 1 Jun 2014 | 500m | |||
Mt Ololokwe area Snake Temple | |||||
{US} 5.9 | Front Fang
A good warmup for what the Temple has to offer. The route is short enough to be a high boulder problem though the landing would make for a devastating fall. Thus 'The Ololokwe Golf Club' took it upon themselves to make it a short and sweet sport climb. PA: Peter Naituli, Ian Lekiluai & Gabriel Jackson, 25 Jun 2022 | 13m, 4 | |||
Mt Ololokwe area Lower Bastard Bush Buttress | |||||
HVS UKT:5a | Waltzing Matilda
Approach the deep chimney through dense bush. Move left to a secondary chimney which peters out swiftly.
PA: Duncan Bell & Nadan Pines, 2005 | 40m | |||
Mt Ololokwe area Upper Bastard Bush Buttress | |||||
VS UKT:5a | Sugar and spice and all things nice
1
VS 4b
20m
2
VS 5a
20m
Approach the prow of the buttress and step right to a steep slab with an obvious step at 1 foot.
PA: Duncan Bell & Nadan Pines, 2005 | 40m, 2 | |||
Mt Ololokwe area Baboon Cliff | |||||
{FR} 5c | ★★ No Hurry in Kenya
Extended crux at the end with some delicate, technical moves on small holds. Shares anchor with Twende | 25m | |||
{FR} 5c | ★ Speed bump
Crux at blank section around 5th bolt | 20m | |||
{US} 5.9 | ★★★ Efthimia
Efthimia is elusive and beautiful. A climber's delight. Efthimia can be found in a small crag among dense bush and lush trees, approximately 300m to the North-West of the Sabache eco-lodge gate. The crag is split by a large rock outcrop. This route is found on the right-hand side of the outcrop. On the very edge of the aforementioned outcrop, a crack begins which climbs up and across to the very top of the rock face. The route is as follows:
Build anchor in crack.
Once reached, the summit provides a wave of gratification, as well as solid trees. PA: Bernard Moulins & Sean Grobler, 21 Abr 2019 | 35m, 2 | |||
VS UKT:5a | Tim Started
1
VS 5a
30m
2
VS 4a
10 m
PA: Matt Fritschi & Nadan Pines, 2005 | 40m, 2 | |||
Tsavo Elephant Rocks | |||||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★ Vampire
Though rather devious, gives varied climbing of high quality. Start just R of cave, on top of a pedestal formed by a huge fallen block resting against the cliff. Climb slab just R of pedestal or move up from pedestal to a white crack (runner) and traverse Ronto slab. Climb this to top of the white crack (VI-). Traverse L and down (good holds below the overlap) to gain a stance on the jammed blocks (15m.). Jam then hand traverse L (VI-) to reach a groove slanting R. Climb this to stance above a grassy ledge (15m.). Continue up slanting crack for 6 m. to chockstones (runner). Above, the crack widens to a chimney; below this step L onto a steep wall. Move up to a big hold, mantelshelf onto this (VI+), move L then climb an easy slab to a tree (20m.); from here one abseil reaches the bottom. Traverse R for 2m., climb a slabby wall till a break leads R into a grassy bay; above this traverse further R across a blank slab to reach grooves leading up to R-hand end of a roof line. Small stance several m. below roof (30m.). Climb to a corner R of the roof and take this till it is possible to traverse out L, round a nose and to a comer on L below cactuses and a small tree (25m.). Climb past cactuses to a roof (Shifta comes in here from the R); take a tapering slab above to reach a horizontal cleft splitting the cliff at half height (25m.). Move slightly L, pull over the roof of cleft (difficult) to a slight recess on R. Climb this (peg runner) to easier slabs and go up these keeping slightly L to a ledge and belays in a wide crack (35m.). Follow this crack, breaking out L where i t steepens. Move up, then back R into the now thin crack and go L across a slab to climb a wall to easy ground. Descend by abseiling down Ivory Comer. PA: Andrew Wielochowski & R.Corkhill, 1983 | 200m | |||
Baringo Lesukut Island | |||||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★ 1
Climb to overhanging roof of cave and over this by a good crack; then a steep wall to top. | ||||
{UIAA} 6 | ★ 3
Climb a recess to a shallow chimney; go up this to top. Climb a recess to a shallow chimney; go up this to top. | ||||
Baringo Touching my Void | |||||
HVS UKT:5a | Let's fuck
PA: Rich Patterson & Rich Gibson, 2005 | ||||
HVS UKT:5a | Wow it's so big
PA: Rich Gibson & Rich Patterson, 2005 | ||||
Laikipia East Paul's Rock | |||||
5+ | The Black Streak
Using the safety bolt above to safely climb down to the obvious ledge 3m from the top. EXPOSED CLIPPING PA: Ella Wright, 1 Nov 2019 | 2 | |||
5+ | Snake Hole
5m right of the obvious ledge climb upwards on good holds, variation is slightly trickier with more slabby moves, excellent climbing! PA: Mathew Glen, 1 Dic 2019 | 2 | |||
5+ | Daisy's Dander
Start at the bottom of the ledge moving left around the blank wall before traversing right to good holds, follow the grooves to the top. | 2 | |||
5+ | Rufous' Groove
Start at the bottom of the ledge moving left around the blank wall before traversing right to good holds, follow the grooves to the top. | 2 | |||
5+ | Kenya's Finest
Use safety bolts to secure yourself before clipping, very EXPOSED CLIPPING you must use a safety bolt! PA: Mathew Glen | 2 | |||
Laikipia East Nyasura | |||||
5c | Outreach
Start on the right hand side of the prominent crack and by wedging yourself between the flake and main wall make your way up to the top of the flake, from here move leftwards to the chock stone and on delicate holds move back to the right, high holds to the top. PA: Ella Wright, 11 Nov 2019 |