Ascensiones en North America teniendo Beta

the first outdoor climb. literally so glad i didn’t die

the first outdoor climb. literally so glad i didn’t die

en simultaneo

That was great. Inspiring to climb on this piece of history (FA in 1952 by Robbins/Wilson, and the first 5.9 in the country!).

P1: Engaging boulder start with almost no protection, crux just below the elephant ear (great feature). I found the start crux to be not the first few moves, but instead reaching the crack by establishing on the slab properly.

P2: 20m of continuous laybacking, initially with some good mini-ledges for rest, then nothing on the last ~12m. Also jammable if you like offwidths. I laybacked (guns > technique I guess)

P3: Interesting mix of grovel, chimney and unprotected slab moves. Rap anchor or continue to the top. Moving onto the slab after chimneying is spicy on lead!

Oof. Too much after climbing Open Book before. Feet hurting like hell and it was also really hot. I still feel insecure on steeper fingercracks and especially felt so today. Needed one hang above the tree, clean until there with the crux for me being getting fully established in the crack.

Bonito diedro !!!

Very fun moves just before the top out, a few different ways to do it

Fun climb, don't know why it's listed as sport though. No bolts, but decent for toprope and maybe a PG-13 trad

Crux is at the start, then the rest of the route is victory jugs

very nice easy climb.

really nice route, short crux section in the middle that can either be done as a crack, or a side pull.

very slabby, no hand holds at the top. First section is 5.7, then harder. Would be scary to lead.

all totally acheivable for me, just exhausted from previous day! project!

Slipery start

Got very close to it! Worked out all the moves.

(Avec le 2e repos sur l'autre face)

#3/4. Cooldown after the 5.9. Easy as, with Danielle's rope already on the anchor.

#1/4. Sean led, with some trepidation because it was his first lead of the season and there's a missing bolt hanger for the 3rd bolt. WHY? Anyway, not a bad route once you figure out the bottom half.

#4/4 for the day. Took small cams and nuts. Placed a red cam, then a nut, which blew when I asked Sean to take on it, breaking the rock. Climbed to the next ledge and placed another cam, then a nut, then finally a cam near the top. Honestly, this could be climbed as a free solo - it's a super easy climb (except that it's dirty AF and therefore not super safe).

Sean's first rap of the season, my first time leading trad in over a year (and having to set up a top belay off a tree, too). Definitely shook out some cobwebs.

#2/4. Great route, rested several times at each bolt.

Came into this route via Coffin Nail. Pulling the Horn was great, some crazy exposure there.

5.8 on Mountain Proj, which is surely more accurate. Great climbing on the second pitch. New BD gloves came in handy.

Many different beta options

Excellent, long route. Take the time to find the best clip stances through the crux.

Blew the flash, but got it on the next go. Awesome route! Hacked the crux with a modern compy move - turns out you can do that stuff outside!

Another fun route. Continued to the top of Skywalker Saga.

Super fun route on good holds. We climbed it as two pitches for practice.

Dropped the onsight at the last crux move.

Parte 1

Did the V5 variant.

First V10!! rlly fun line, took me 10 sessions

Super cool

Surprisingly hard, especially at the top. Maybe closer to a 5.9 but it could just be bad beta

Super cool crux before the first bolt. Rest of the climb great otherwise

Using the anchor there is a great top rope climb following the crack directly below. I'd call it a 5.8

Estaba un poco sucia la vía, mucha caca de zopilote en el primer largo, a la mitad del 3er largo se me rompió un agarre grande. Y en el rappel de regreso desde la cumbre hay que tener cuidado de que no se atore la cuerda.

Tricky climb in trail runners!

Forgot my climbing shoes so top-roped in trail runners, setting trad gear so Kat could "sport" lead it.

me comentó chango que le rompió un agarre clave en el crux, además se siente más dura que "pánico satánico"

Fui a limpiar la línea y darle con el Abraham. Al final descifré todos los pasos y las posibles protecciones. Falta ir a darle el pegue definitivo.

Con el runout picante está muy buena jaja o se puede proteger con uno o dos cams del número 2