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Ascensión de Creasta Coarnele Caprei

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Grado Vía Estilo de equipamiento Calidad Escalador
Sáb 9.º Sep 2023 - Piatra Craiului
Padina lui Călineţ Padina lui Călineţ
6+ A1 Creasta Coarnele Caprei - con Dana Bazacliu
1 4+ 40 De segundo escalada de primero por Dana Bazacliu

Did the original pitch, belaying off a rock. Dana tried the 5+ leftmost variant (quite friable), I did the 4+ right one (not friable, but grassy, some pro opportunities available on the right). The theoretical new bolt belay is actually a single bolt, and the following 4+ chimney is only protected at the base, so we continued on the original pitch.

2 6+ A0 50 De segundo escalada de primero por Dana Bazacliu

Did the old pitch, but broken down in 2 pitches (can't increase pitch number on thecrag), by using the new P1 belay (1 bolt, 1 tree, not 2 bolts like on the drawing) as an intermediate belay.

First bit is cool but really pumpy - aided my way up until the overhanging dihedral, which I freed, but rested on the rope. 25m 7- if free

Second bit just has 1 draw I pulled on, at the initial overhang, and then easy (5 or less) terrain to the belay at a rock. 25m 70

3 5- 60 De segundo escalada de primero por Dana Bazacliu

Also broken down in 2 pitches on account of rope drag. Final belay on rock horn + red totem

4 6- 30 De segundo escalada de primero por Dana Bazacliu

Did the original version, with the photogenic layback (protectable by slingable chockstone). Belayed at a rock right after reaching the ridge, since Dana wanted to warn me about a very loose rock on the ridge (still there, there were people in the gullies below). Bolt belay (2 bolts) is 10m onwards on the ridge, at the base of the first face, which would be a 50m pitch then.

5 3 30 De segundo escalada de primero por Dana Bazacliu

Had almost forgotten about that bushwhack

6 6 A1 60 De segundo escalada de primero por Dana Bazacliu

My favourite pitch. Accidentally stepped on a piton, so rather than 6/6+ let's say 6 A1.Fancy, balancy, well-protected 6 UIAA face climbing mixed with 5 UIAA friable alpine crap

Clásica mixta 270m, 10 Muy buena
Ruxandra V
Not quite the pitches in the CR drawing, since not all of the belays are actually where that shows them.

 

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