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Ascension de Creasta Coarnele Caprei

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Affichant les 1 ascension total.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Qualité Grimpeur
Sam 9 Sept 2023 - Piatra Craiului
Padina lui Călineţ Padina lui Călineţ
6+ A1 Creasta Coarnele Caprei - avec Dana Bazacliu
1 4+ 40 En second grimpé en tête par Dana Bazacliu

Did the original pitch, belaying off a rock. Dana tried the 5+ leftmost variant (quite friable), I did the 4+ right one (not friable, but grassy, some pro opportunities available on the right). The theoretical new bolt belay is actually a single bolt, and the following 4+ chimney is only protected at the base, so we continued on the original pitch.

2 6+ A0 50 En second grimpé en tête par Dana Bazacliu

Did the old pitch, but broken down in 2 pitches (can't increase pitch number on thecrag), by using the new P1 belay (1 bolt, 1 tree, not 2 bolts like on the drawing) as an intermediate belay.

First bit is cool but really pumpy - aided my way up until the overhanging dihedral, which I freed, but rested on the rope. 25m 7- if free

Second bit just has 1 draw I pulled on, at the initial overhang, and then easy (5 or less) terrain to the belay at a rock. 25m 70

3 5- 60 En second grimpé en tête par Dana Bazacliu

Also broken down in 2 pitches on account of rope drag. Final belay on rock horn + red totem

4 6- 30 En second grimpé en tête par Dana Bazacliu

Did the original version, with the photogenic layback (protectable by slingable chockstone). Belayed at a rock right after reaching the ridge, since Dana wanted to warn me about a very loose rock on the ridge (still there, there were people in the gullies below). Bolt belay (2 bolts) is 10m onwards on the ridge, at the base of the first face, which would be a 50m pitch then.

5 3 30 En second grimpé en tête par Dana Bazacliu

Had almost forgotten about that bushwhack

6 6 A1 60 En second grimpé en tête par Dana Bazacliu

My favourite pitch. Accidentally stepped on a piton, so rather than 6/6+ let's say 6 A1.Fancy, balancy, well-protected 6 UIAA face climbing mixed with 5 UIAA friable alpine crap

Trad mixte 270m, 10 Excellent
Ruxandra V
Not quite the pitches in the CR drawing, since not all of the belays are actually where that shows them.

 

Affichant les 1 ascension total.

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