Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | Falaise | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
20 | ★★★ If Women Were Gods
A Bronkies classic! Long and sustained! Start up a thin face below the overlap. Turn overlap on the right and head up to the ledge. Steep moves lead up the face to a rest before the break through the overhangs above. These overhangs will normally see some impressive ‘styling’ over a weekend. FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2003 | 14 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
20 | ★★★ Pistolero
FA: Paddy McCann, 1995 | 22m, 11 | Silvermine | ||
20 | ★★ Revenge of the Paas Haasie
FA: naureen goheer & S Miller, 2003 | 6 | The Mine | ||
{FB} 5A | ★★ Bad Boy for Life
Sit Down Start. Both hands on the shelf at the base of the large scoop. Climb straight up the right side of the scoop to top out. Listed as a classic in the guidebook FA: Flo Grimus, 2005 | Rocklands | |||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ Peaches and Cream
To the immediate right of Leap of Faith. Slightly tricky and crimpy start, then lovely moves through the middle section. Keep your nerve through the slabby run-out after the last bolt. FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 2000 | 22m, 6 | Lukenya | ||
20 | ★★ Between the Lines
FA: R. de Dekker & Roy White, 2004 | 20m, 7 | Silvermine | ||
20 | ★★★ My Precious
FA: Malcolm Gowans, 2004 | 5 | Silvermine | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★★ As Good as it Gets
Same start into the scoop as Turbulence, but at the second bolt keep moving rightwards and up. A beautiful route. FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1999 | 25m, 6 | Lukenya | ||
20 | ★★ Quasimodo
Permadraws at the anchor FA: E February, 1997 | 24m, 9 | Montagu | ||
20 | ★★ Wake-up Call
FA: J. Orton, 1996 | 16m, 6 | Silvermine | ||
20 | ★ Puddy Twat
FA: Tony Lourens, 1997 | 12m, 4 | Lakeside Pinnacle | ||
20 | ★★ Spoons
FA: M Turkstra, 1997 | 18m, 5 | Kleinmond | ||
20 | ★ George's Bush
Cool start, chains been lowered to better position to avoid rope damage. FA: Darryl Margeets & Gareth Frost, 2008 | 18m, 11 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
20 | ★★★ Trials and Tribulations
FA: S. Bristow, 1995 | 26m, 13 | Hellfire | ||
20 | ★ When I Was Young I Had This Dilemma
Dilemma indeed, but fun once you work it out. Beware of loose flakey rock on right hand side between bolts 5 & 6. Équip.: Derek Pienaar FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2003 | 8 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
20 | ★ Drugs and Death
Start 2-3m right of the BAD KARMA recess. Climb the smooth orangey-red wall on good incuts. Tend left towards the arete. Not as easy as it looks, and much harder for midgets. FA: Clive Curson, 1994 | 10m, 6 | Strubens Valley | ||
20 | ★ Eiri
FA: D. Wiemar, 1997 | 14m, 5 | The Hole | ||
20 | ★★ Red Herring
Fine climb up the middle of the face. FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1991 | 25m, 9 | Waterval Boven | ||
20 | ★★ Bonar
Fine moves up the steep left arête on positive holds. Long and pumpy. FA: D. Margetts & Bernie Schumacher, 1993 | 14 | Waterval Boven | ||
20 | ★★★ Touching the Void
Starting 6 -7m right of 'The Lorax', climb past the overlap into a groove. Figure out which is the easier finish for you. FA: Clive Curson & Don Poe, Fév 2017 | 9 | Waterval Boven | ||
20 | ★★ Emancipated Spider Chicks
Climb the face to the left of 'Butterfly Snowstorm'. FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 2000 | 9 | Waterval Boven | ||
20 | ★ Grim Reaper
Top anchors are in an indent and therefore not visible from below. FA: Ken Thrash & I McMaster, 2007 | 10 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
20 | ★★ Moondance
Climbs the recess about 4m to the right of the loose pillar, for about 15m. Some cranking crack climbing. FA: Claire Keaton, 1999 | 12 | Waterval Boven | ||
20 | ★★ Burlesque
FA: Paddy McCann, Avr 2015 | 18m, 7 | Truitjieskraal | ||
20 | ★ P.M.S.
Unconventional climb, with interesting roof moves. FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2003 | 11 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
20 | ★★ Trade Winds
FA: J. Alexander, 1992 | 22m, 7 | The Mine | ||
20 | ★★ Cedar Stout
FA: Adele McCann & Paddy McCann, Mai 2015 | 10 | Truitjieskraal | ||
20 | ★★★ Hannah's Wine Tour
FA: M. Rehm, 2002 | 10 | Montagu | ||
20 | ★★ Pom-pom Dominatrix
Takes the open book just right of No More Freeloaders and continues over the bulge at the top on to a small slab. It is possible to duck left at the top into a jam crack to avoid the crux (Pom-Pom option,17) Équip.: Tony Seebregts & Peter Speed, 2013 FA: 2013 | 8 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
20 | ★ Eugenious
FA: G. Irvin Équip.: S. Kets, 2001 | 10m, 4 | Table Mountain | ||
20 | ★★ Klubvoet Kitty
FA: C Bruton, 2003 | 5 | Kleinmond | ||
20 | ★★ Altar Boys
FA: R Schmidt, 1997 | 23m, 7 | Montagu | ||
20 | ★ Teen Spirit
The climb starts in the obvious crack. Climb this crack until it is possible to move out left. Continue up the face to finish with a mantle at the top to clip the chains. FA: Ken Thrash, Mark Phillips, Darryl Margetts & Dave Chesney, 1999 | 14 | Waterval Boven | ||
20 | ★ Judgement Day
Climb the smooth, light-coloured face to the right of the dark crack / recess. Don’t reach past the edge of the face. FA: Clive Curson, 1994 | 4 | Strubens Valley | ||
20 | ★★ Buona Sera Signorina
FA: Tony Lourens, 2010 | 25m, 11 | Montagu | ||
{FB} 5A | ★ Drat
Standing Start, right hand in rail, left hand on sidepull. Climb along the left hand crack and top out. FA: Steve Koehorst, 1997 | Table Mountain | |||
20 | ★★ Biogalactic Gobbleblaster
Start 8m right of 'Grunt'. Dynamic start onto jugs can also be done statically if tall (to cheat: use the tree or traverse from the right). Climb a few meters to a ledge, then some face moves to chains. Awesome photo opportunity of climb, from ledges out right of chains. FA: Rory Lowther, 2003 | 20m, 8 | Waterval Boven | ||
20 | ★★★ Wow Wow Peddle
20/6b FA: Paddy McCann, 2004 | 13 | Sanddrif | ||
20 | ★★★ Little Dutch Boy
1
18
25m
2
20
30m
3
16
35m
A long-time classic snaking it's way up a steep granite wall courtesy of a fat vein of juggy quartz.
FA: Scott Noy Entr.: R. Schmidt & B.Bohm FA: Jeremy Samson & Jono Fisher, 1989 | 90m, 3 | Paarl Rock | ||
20 | ★ Sthppoonz
FA: J. Orton, 1998 | 6 | Silvermine | ||
20 | ★★★ Shout At the Devil
Phenomenal climbing on the steep face 6m right of the 'Babies' Blood Gives Me Gas' corner. FA: Darryl Margetts, 1994 | 12 | Waterval Boven | ||
20 | ★★ High Speed Dirt
Starts to the right of the face around the corner from 'Women Ain't Nothing But Trouble', opposite the large tree. Follow the crack all the way to the top. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998 | 11 | Waterval Boven | ||
20 | ★ Lamb to the Slaughter
Layback, stem and crank through the steep start. Easy climbing then takes you to within a few meters of the top. You should climb straight up the final face, but the crack to the right is awfully tempting. Équip.: Daryl Margetts FA: Ian MacMaster, 2007 | 11 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
20 | ★★ Trans-Plutionian Panic Zone
Climbs the shallow corner just left of Mini Me, and then up through the rooflet and finger crack above. The bottom 3/4 of the climb are about grade 15. FA: Tony Seebregts, Peter Speed & Bridgette Kerst, 2016 | 10 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
20 | ★ Mr Potato Head (alt. start)
| Shongweni Dam | |||
20 | ★★ Pin Up
Originally opened as an aid route, it was freed to produce one of Monteseel’s most popular routes. Starts from a large block on a wide ledge above the path. Climb up to a rail below a small roof. Stretch through the roof on a hand jam to an inset jug on the left. Continue up the steep face above. Move left to a large flake and exit easily to the top. FA: Sherman Ripley & Jim Thomson, 1960 FFA: Dave Cheesemond or Mike Roberts, 1975 | Monteseel | |||
20 | ★★ Barrier Of Spears
Has a left slanting crack in the upper section. Start directly under the crack, 4m right of 'The Lorax' tag. An optional extension goes 2-3m up to a 2nd set of anchors on the right. FA: Clive Curson & Don Poe, Fév 2017 | 10 | Waterval Boven | ||
20 | ★★ Revealyomango
A nice jamming, stemming and lay back crack that can teach new skills to sport climbers. FA: Tony Lourens, 2002 | 25m, 12 | Silvermine | ||
20 | ★★★ Energy Crisis
1
20
15m
2
15
35m
3
13
20m
4
18
10m
5
17
40m
6
17
25m
FFA: R. Barley, R. Smithers & M. Hafner, 1979 | 150m, 6 | Wolfberg | ||
20 | ★★★ Rasputin
Entr.: Mountain Club of South Africa FA: R. Behne, S. Larsen & A. Kotze, 2006 | 5 | Silvermine | ||
20 | ★★ Santa's Little Helper
Follow the line of bolts straight up the face to the left of 'Reminiscing' . FA: Gareth Frost, Ian McMaster & Darryl Margetts, 1999 | 10 | Waterval Boven | ||
20 | ★★★ Fall Out
This route is a combination of two climbs, the original Fall Out up to the big ledge, and an aid route opened by Des Watkins, called Lollipop, from the ledge to the top. The aid route was freed by Brian Gross on top rope in 1976. The result is a good introduction to steep and technical climbing. Start in the middle of the face. Climb up to the rail and using a hand jam, stretch up to a thinner rail. Continue up a crack, past a ring peg to a narrow, sloping ledge. Move right and climb a crack to the large ledge. Climb the overhanging crack above to a rail. Move left and finish up a recess. FA: Mike Roberts & Roy Gooden, 1977 | 25m | Monteseel | ||
20 | ★★★ Bibiche Line
Left of 'Sport Climbing Is Dead' FA: Fred Roulx, 2016 | 30m, 14 | Waterval Boven | ||
{FB} 5A | ★★ Olives Don't Like Dust
Climb rightwards up the arete | Rocklands | |||
20 | ★ Rat Palace
A little way along the path approaching from the left of 'Hallucinogenic Wall'. Climb the face up to a small roof and up to the chains above. FA: Darryl Margetts, Gareth Frost & Hector Pringle, 2001 | 9 | Waterval Boven | ||
{SA} 20 | ★★★ Facebook
Up the dihedral then finish up the face. FA: Guy Holwill, 2007 | 8 | Rocklands | ||
20 | ★ Hobbitry In Arms
FA: Peter Lazarus, 1993 | 6 | Chosspile | ||
{SA} 20 | ★★★ Cattle Rustler
FA: D. Shewell, 1994 | 25m, 6 | Rocklands | ||
20 | ★ The Serpent
Powerful moves left and up to exit on the right side of the head-wall; easier if you’re tall.. FA: David Tapp, 2010 | 10m, 7 | King's Kloof | ||
20 | ★★ Devil’s Dance
| 20m, 11 | Montagu | ||
20 | ★★★ Interstellar Overdrive
FA: T. Lourens, Oct. 2023 | 11 | Montagu | ||
{SA} 20 | ★★ Buckaroo
FA: S. Miller, 2007 | 5 | Rocklands | ||
20 | ★★ Almost My Balls
The first line around the corner, right of 'Precision Feather'. Hard and scary if you can't reach the layback! FA: Barry Crouse | 14 | Waterval Boven | ||
20 | ★ Houston, We Have a Problem
FA: J Terblanche, 1999 | 5 | Kleinmond | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ Waterloo
A delicate exercise in nut placing. This worthy trip takes the left side of the Castle where there is an orange overhang with a steep grey wall above. A 18m doddle up the lower slabs ends at a good belay in horizontal cracks some 5m below the overhang. Up this direct via a slanting flake and the grey wall above is reached by way of a thin vertical crack up on the right. Move up delicately 5m to good pro. Mantelshelf steep wall above and easier ground to top. FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1989 | 43m | Lukenya | ||
20 | ★ Diffindo
FA: Rory Lowther | 7 | Chosspile | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ Leopard Hunt
2nd route from the left on the main wall. Powerful, bouldery start to establish yourself on the first ledge, before some technical moves until above the 4th bolt. More mellow middle section before the final, tricky overhang before the anchors. Take care - there may still be a couple of loose flakes. | 25m | Mt Ololokwe area | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★★ Modern Warrior
Longest route at baboon cliff. The opening 10-15m are the crux, with tricky slab climbing on small edges up to a ledge. Then mellower slab to a huge ledge, before the final fun moves up a detached boulder to the anchor. | 32m | Mt Ololokwe area | ||
20 | ★★ Halongmaishlong
This (rude) line climbs through the overlap from a corner, 15m right of 'Little Red Riding Hood'. FA: Alard Hüfner, 1999 | 13 | Waterval Boven | ||
20 | ★ Speary
Climbs the side closest to the main mountain. Pull on some fun pockets to the top. FA: Eric Rieman & Joffrey Hyman, 2000 | 9m, 6 | Swinburne | ||
20 | ★★ Keeps the Doctor Away
FA: Russell Warren, 2010 | 18m, 8 | Houdenbek | ||
20 | ★★ Rocky Rhodes
This route, just to the right of the start of 'Oubaas' uses the last bolt and exit chains of 'Oubaas' but takes the direct line through the overhang. FA: John Sargood, 2007 | 5 | Winston Park | ||
20 | ★★★ Touch and Go
1
17
17m
2
16
20m
3
20
10m
4
16
30m
FA: B. Fletcher, P. Williams & P. White, 1961 | 77m, 4 | Table Mountain | ||
20 | ★ Blockhead
FA: M. Sim, 2002 | 6 | Silvermine | ||
20 | ★★ Vortex
FA: Tony Lourens, 2002 | 7 | Silvermine | ||
20 | Duck Surprise
FA: Tony Lourens, 2002 | 4 | Silvermine | ||
20 | Epilady
FA: D Viljoen, 1995 | 6 | Shongweni Dam | ||
20 | ★★★ Living on a Prayer
A classic - sustained mix of technical face climbing and cranky pulls using amazing holds. Placement of the bolt on Direct Variation through final overlap (to the right) confuses finish - ignore this bolt. Équip.: Paddy McCann FA: Guy Holwill & J. Orrock, 1988 | 25m, 12 | Sanddrif | ||
20 | ★★ The Cure
Crux is around the 7/8th bolt. FA: Roger Nattrass, 2017 | 15m, 8 | Umgeni Valley | ||
20 | ★★ That Booty Magic
On the tower on the left. Start from the rock platform on the right. ±1-2m above the ground FA: Cormac Tooze, 18 Mars 2018 Équip.: Cormac Tooze, 18 Mars 2018 | Truitjieskraal | |||
20 | ★★ Sad Lament for your Phallus
FA: S. Douglas, 1988 | 3 | Peer's Cave | ||
20 | ★★ Don't Squeeze I'll Laugh
1
20
15m
2
19
12m
3
20
30m
4
20
20m
FA: G. Lacey & E. February, 1982 | 77m, 4 | Table Mountain | ||
20 | ★★ A Fresh Start
This is the direct line for 'Amajuba' and was only possible once most of the dodgy looking large overhang to the right of the 'Amajuba' start fell down the mountainside. Take the line of bolts through the overhang to the right of the “Amajuba” start. From the ledge, finish up 'Amajuba'. A nice sustained line. You will need a sling for the top as noted for 'Amajuba'. FA: Bruce Sobey & Cedric Sobey, 2009 | 7 | Winston Park | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★★ Twende
Crux at the end. Shares anchor with No Hurry in Kenya | 25m | Mt Ololokwe area | ||
20 | ★★ Dental Floss Tycoon
FA: Tony Lourens Équip.: Tony Lourens | Truitjieskraal | |||
{FB} 5A | Baboon Bones
Sit-start and climb the easy corner. | Rocklands | |||
20 | ★★ Palmiet Arête
FA: P Geartner, 2002 | 15m, 6 | Kleinmond | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ K.L. Corner
The corner crack between the two faces is climbed free (natural pro). FA: D.D. Gray & Ian Howell, 1971 | 22m | Lukenya | ||
{SA} 20 | ★★ Cranky Cowgirl
FA: Malcolm Gowans, 2007 Équip.: Malcolm Gowans, 2007 | 8 | Rocklands | ||
20 | ★★★ Welcome to the Machine
FA: T. Lourens, Juil 2023 | 35m, 20 | Montagu | ||
20 | ★★ Time of the Oath
FA: D. Marshall, 2001 | 10 | Montagu | ||
{FB} 5A | ★ If Only
Sit-start with good hold under roof and climb up the large flake. | Rocklands | |||
20 | Cramcakes & Scumbags
starts 4m right of RR on a rocky ledge in a corner. Tricky start. FA: Louis Smit & Wiliam Graham, 2004 | 6 | Chosspile | ||
20 | ★★★ Living on a Prayer-Direct
Équip.: A. Davies FA: A. Davies, 2004 | 12 | Sanddrif | ||
20 | ★ Dumpster
First, second and third ascensionists say 20, and without gloves. There is talk of it being harder. Def harder if you can not hand jam. I am open to upgrading. FA: Cormac Tooze, 28 Avr 2018 Équip.: Cormac Tooze & Mountain Club of South Africa, 28 Avr 2018 | 6 | Silvermine | ||
20 | Comfort Zone
Situated in the middle of the short face on the very left. FA: Hector Pringle, Gareth Frost, N. McKenzie, Darryl Margetts & Alan Grant, 2001 | 6 | Waterval Boven | ||
E2 UKT:5b | ★★ Los Penitentes
On the red face facing south picnic tree. One bolt at start, then traverse diagonally to the right, move up to holes. Then traverse left on horizontal crack until it thins down, with another bolt above the crack. Finish at bolted anchors. FA: Ulf Carlsson & Nicolas Ganzin, 1996 | 2 | Lukenya | ||
20 | ★ Dying to Fly
The first right leaning crack off the ledge, about 6m right of 'Doa'. A bouldery move to gain the slab. FA: Clive Curson & Grant Murray, 1991 | 8 | Waterval Boven | ||
6a+ | ★★★ La Classique
Fully but spaced bolted. | 290m, 9, 12 | Haut Atlas | ||
20 | ★ Little Fishies
Express anchors as lower-offs FA: G. Hart, 2003 | 3 | Trappieskop |