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Voies dans Africa pour la cotation selectionnée

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Affichage de 1 - 100 sur 1,772 voies.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Popularité Falaise
20 If Women Were Gods

A Bronkies classic! Long and sustained! Start up a thin face below the overlap. Turn overlap on the right and head up to the ledge. Steep moves lead up the face to a rest before the break through the overhangs above. These overhangs will normally see some impressive ‘styling’ over a weekend.

FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2003

Sportive 14 Bronkhorstspruit Crag
20 Pistolero

FA: Paddy McCann, 1995

Sportive 22m, 11 Silvermine
20 Revenge of the Paas Haasie

FA: naureen goheer & S Miller, 2003

Sportive 6 The Mine
{FB} 5A Bad Boy for Life

Sit Down Start. Both hands on the shelf at the base of the large scoop. Climb straight up the right side of the scoop to top out.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

FA: Flo Grimus, 2005

Bloc Rocklands
{FR} 6a+ Peaches and Cream

To the immediate right of Leap of Faith. Slightly tricky and crimpy start, then lovely moves through the middle section. Keep your nerve through the slabby run-out after the last bolt.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 2000

Sportive 22m, 6 Lukenya
20 Between the Lines

FA: R. de Dekker & Roy White, 2004

Sportive 20m, 7 Silvermine
20 My Precious

FA: Malcolm Gowans, 2004

Sportive 5 Silvermine
{FR} 6a+ As Good as it Gets

Same start into the scoop as Turbulence, but at the second bolt keep moving rightwards and up. A beautiful route.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1999

Sportive 25m, 6 Lukenya
20 Quasimodo

Permadraws at the anchor

FA: E February, 1997

Sportive 24m, 9 Montagu
20 Wake-up Call

FA: J. Orton, 1996

Sportive 16m, 6 Silvermine
20 Puddy Twat

FA: Tony Lourens, 1997

Sportive 12m, 4 Lakeside Pinnacle
20 Spoons

FA: M Turkstra, 1997

Sportive 18m, 5 Kleinmond
20 George's Bush

Cool start, chains been lowered to better position to avoid rope damage.

FA: Darryl Margeets & Gareth Frost, 2008

Sportive 18m, 11 Bronkhorstspruit Crag
20 Trials and Tribulations

FA: S. Bristow, 1995

Sportive 26m, 13 Hellfire
20 When I Was Young I Had This Dilemma

Dilemma indeed, but fun once you work it out. Beware of loose flakey rock on right hand side between bolts 5 & 6.

Équip.: Derek Pienaar

FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2003

Sportive 8 Bronkhorstspruit Crag
20 Drugs and Death

Start 2-3m right of the BAD KARMA recess. Climb the smooth orangey-red wall on good incuts. Tend left towards the arete. Not as easy as it looks, and much harder for midgets.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

Sportive 10m, 6 Strubens Valley
20 Eiri

FA: D. Wiemar, 1997

Sportive 14m, 5 The Hole
20 Red Herring

Fine climb up the middle of the face.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1991

Sportive 25m, 9 Waterval Boven
20 Bonar

Fine moves up the steep left arête on positive holds. Long and pumpy.

FA: D. Margetts & Bernie Schumacher, 1993

Sportive 14 Waterval Boven
20 Touching the Void

Starting 6 -7m right of 'The Lorax', climb past the overlap into a groove. Figure out which is the easier finish for you.

FA: Clive Curson & Don Poe, Fév 2017

Sportive 9 Waterval Boven
20 Emancipated Spider Chicks

Climb the face to the left of 'Butterfly Snowstorm'.

FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 2000

Sportive 9 Waterval Boven
20 Grim Reaper

Top anchors are in an indent and therefore not visible from below.

FA: Ken Thrash & I McMaster, 2007

Sportive 10 Bronkhorstspruit Crag
20 Moondance

Climbs the recess about 4m to the right of the loose pillar, for about 15m. Some cranking crack climbing.

FA: Claire Keaton, 1999

Sportive 12 Waterval Boven
20 Burlesque

FA: Paddy McCann, Avr 2015

Sportive 18m, 7 Truitjieskraal
20 P.M.S.

Unconventional climb, with interesting roof moves.

FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2003

Sportive 11 Bronkhorstspruit Crag
20 Trade Winds

FA: J. Alexander, 1992

Sportive 22m, 7 The Mine
20 Cedar Stout

FA: Adele McCann & Paddy McCann, Mai 2015

Sportive 10 Truitjieskraal
20 Hannah's Wine Tour

FA: M. Rehm, 2002

Sportive 10 Montagu
20 Pom-pom Dominatrix

Takes the open book just right of No More Freeloaders and continues over the bulge at the top on to a small slab. It is possible to duck left at the top into a jam crack to avoid the crux (Pom-Pom option,17)

Équip.: Tony Seebregts & Peter Speed, 2013

FA: 2013

Sportive 8 Bronkhorstspruit Crag
20 Eugenious

FA: G. Irvin

Équip.: S. Kets, 2001

Sportive 10m, 4 Table Mountain
20 Klubvoet Kitty

FA: C Bruton, 2003

Sportive 5 Kleinmond
20 Altar Boys

FA: R Schmidt, 1997

Sportive 23m, 7 Montagu
20 Teen Spirit

The climb starts in the obvious crack. Climb this crack until it is possible to move out left. Continue up the face to finish with a mantle at the top to clip the chains.

FA: Ken Thrash, Mark Phillips, Darryl Margetts & Dave Chesney, 1999

Sportive 14 Waterval Boven
20 Judgement Day

Climb the smooth, light-coloured face to the right of the dark crack / recess. Don’t reach past the edge of the face.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

Sportive 4 Strubens Valley
20 Buona Sera Signorina

FA: Tony Lourens, 2010

Sportive 25m, 11 Montagu
{FB} 5A Drat

Standing Start, right hand in rail, left hand on sidepull. Climb along the left hand crack and top out.

FA: Steve Koehorst, 1997

Bloc Table Mountain
20 Biogalactic Gobbleblaster

Start 8m right of 'Grunt'. Dynamic start onto jugs can also be done statically if tall (to cheat: use the tree or traverse from the right). Climb a few meters to a ledge, then some face moves to chains. Awesome photo opportunity of climb, from ledges out right of chains.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

Sportive 20m, 8 Waterval Boven
20 Wow Wow Peddle

20/6b

FA: Paddy McCann, 2004

Sportive 13 Sanddrif
20 Little Dutch Boy
1 18 25m
2 20 30m
3 16 35m

A long-time classic snaking it's way up a steep granite wall courtesy of a fat vein of juggy quartz.

  1. 6 bolts

  2. 10 bolts

  3. 4 bolts

FA: Scott Noy

Entr.: R. Schmidt & B.Bohm

FA: Jeremy Samson & Jono Fisher, 1989

Sportive 90m, 3 Paarl Rock
20 Sthppoonz

FA: J. Orton, 1998

Sportive 6 Silvermine
20 Shout At the Devil

Phenomenal climbing on the steep face 6m right of the 'Babies' Blood Gives Me Gas' corner.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1994

Sportive 12 Waterval Boven
20 High Speed Dirt

Starts to the right of the face around the corner from 'Women Ain't Nothing But Trouble', opposite the large tree. Follow the crack all the way to the top.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

Sportive 11 Waterval Boven
20 Lamb to the Slaughter

Layback, stem and crank through the steep start. Easy climbing then takes you to within a few meters of the top. You should climb straight up the final face, but the crack to the right is awfully tempting.

Équip.: Daryl Margetts

FA: Ian MacMaster, 2007

Sportive 11 Bronkhorstspruit Crag
20 Trans-Plutionian Panic Zone

Climbs the shallow corner just left of Mini Me, and then up through the rooflet and finger crack above. The bottom 3/4 of the climb are about grade 15.

FA: Tony Seebregts, Peter Speed & Bridgette Kerst, 2016

Sportive 10 Bronkhorstspruit Crag
20 Mr Potato Head (alt. start)
Sportive Shongweni Dam
20 Pin Up

Originally opened as an aid route, it was freed to produce one of Monteseel’s most popular routes. Starts from a large block on a wide ledge above the path.

Climb up to a rail below a small roof. Stretch through the roof on a hand jam to an inset jug on the left. Continue up the steep face above. Move left to a large flake and exit easily to the top.

FA: Sherman Ripley & Jim Thomson, 1960

FFA: Dave Cheesemond or Mike Roberts, 1975

Trad Monteseel
20 Barrier Of Spears

Has a left slanting crack in the upper section. Start directly under the crack, 4m right of 'The Lorax' tag. An optional extension goes 2-3m up to a 2nd set of anchors on the right.

FA: Clive Curson & Don Poe, Fév 2017

Sportive 10 Waterval Boven
20 Revealyomango

A nice jamming, stemming and lay back crack that can teach new skills to sport climbers.

FA: Tony Lourens, 2002

Sportive 25m, 12 Silvermine
20 Energy Crisis
1 20 15m
2 15 35m
3 13 20m
4 18 10m
5 17 40m
6 17 25m

FFA: R. Barley, R. Smithers & M. Hafner, 1979

Trad 150m, 6 Wolfberg
20 Rasputin

Entr.: Mountain Club of South Africa

FA: R. Behne, S. Larsen & A. Kotze, 2006

Sportive 5 Silvermine
20 Santa's Little Helper

Follow the line of bolts straight up the face to the left of 'Reminiscing' .

FA: Gareth Frost, Ian McMaster & Darryl Margetts, 1999

Sportive 10 Waterval Boven
20 Fall Out

This route is a combination of two climbs, the original Fall Out up to the big ledge, and an aid route opened by Des Watkins, called Lollipop, from the ledge to the top. The aid route was freed by Brian Gross on top rope in 1976. The result is a good introduction to steep and technical climbing.

Start in the middle of the face. Climb up to the rail and using a hand jam, stretch up to a thinner rail. Continue up a crack, past a ring peg to a narrow, sloping ledge. Move right and climb a crack to the large ledge. Climb the overhanging crack above to a rail. Move left and finish up a recess.

FA: Mike Roberts & Roy Gooden, 1977

Trad 25m Monteseel
20 Bibiche Line

Left of 'Sport Climbing Is Dead'

FA: Fred Roulx, 2016

Sportive 30m, 14 Waterval Boven
{FB} 5A Olives Don't Like Dust

Climb rightwards up the arete

Bloc Rocklands
20 Rat Palace

A little way along the path approaching from the left of 'Hallucinogenic Wall'. Climb the face up to a small roof and up to the chains above.

FA: Darryl Margetts, Gareth Frost & Hector Pringle, 2001

Sportive 9 Waterval Boven
{SA} 20 Facebook

Up the dihedral then finish up the face.

FA: Guy Holwill, 2007

Sportive 8 Rocklands
20 Hobbitry In Arms

FA: Peter Lazarus, 1993

Sportive 6 Chosspile
{SA} 20 Cattle Rustler

FA: D. Shewell, 1994

Sportive 25m, 6 Rocklands
20 The Serpent

Powerful moves left and up to exit on the right side of the head-wall; easier if you’re tall..

FA: David Tapp, 2010

Sportive 10m, 7 King's Kloof
20 Devil’s Dance
Sportive 20m, 11 Montagu
20 Interstellar Overdrive

FA: T. Lourens, Oct. 2023

Sportive 11 Montagu
{SA} 20 Buckaroo

FA: S. Miller, 2007

Sportive 5 Rocklands
20 Almost My Balls

The first line around the corner, right of 'Precision Feather'. Hard and scary if you can't reach the layback!

FA: Barry Crouse

Sportive 14 Waterval Boven
20 Houston, We Have a Problem

FA: J Terblanche, 1999

Sportive 5 Kleinmond
E1 UKT:5b Waterloo

A delicate exercise in nut placing. This worthy trip takes the left side of the Castle where there is an orange overhang with a steep grey wall above. A 18m doddle up the lower slabs ends at a good belay in horizontal cracks some 5m below the overhang. Up this direct via a slanting flake and the grey wall above is reached by way of a thin vertical crack up on the right. Move up delicately 5m to good pro. Mantelshelf steep wall above and easier ground to top.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1989

Trad 43m Lukenya
20 Diffindo

FA: Rory Lowther

Sportive 7 Chosspile
{FR} 6a+ Leopard Hunt

2nd route from the left on the main wall. Powerful, bouldery start to establish yourself on the first ledge, before some technical moves until above the 4th bolt. More mellow middle section before the final, tricky overhang before the anchors. Take care - there may still be a couple of loose flakes.

Sportive 25m Mt Ololokwe area
{FR} 6a+ Modern Warrior

Longest route at baboon cliff. The opening 10-15m are the crux, with tricky slab climbing on small edges up to a ledge. Then mellower slab to a huge ledge, before the final fun moves up a detached boulder to the anchor.

Sportive 32m Mt Ololokwe area
20 Halongmaishlong

This (rude) line climbs through the overlap from a corner, 15m right of 'Little Red Riding Hood'.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1999

Sportive 13 Waterval Boven
20 Speary

Climbs the side closest to the main mountain. Pull on some fun pockets to the top.

FA: Eric Rieman & Joffrey Hyman, 2000

Sportive 9m, 6 Swinburne
20 Keeps the Doctor Away

FA: Russell Warren, 2010

Sportive 18m, 8 Houdenbek
20 Rocky Rhodes

This route, just to the right of the start of 'Oubaas' uses the last bolt and exit chains of 'Oubaas' but takes the direct line through the overhang.

FA: John Sargood, 2007

Sportive 5 Winston Park
20 Touch and Go
1 17 17m
2 16 20m
3 20 10m
4 16 30m
  1. [17] 17m

  2. [16] 20m

  3. [20] 10m

  4. [16] 30m

FA: B. Fletcher, P. Williams & P. White, 1961

Trad 77m, 4 Table Mountain
20 Blockhead

FA: M. Sim, 2002

Sportive 6 Silvermine
20 Vortex

FA: Tony Lourens, 2002

Sportive 7 Silvermine
20 Duck Surprise

FA: Tony Lourens, 2002

Sportive 4 Silvermine
20 Epilady

FA: D Viljoen, 1995

Sportive 6 Shongweni Dam
20 Living on a Prayer

A classic - sustained mix of technical face climbing and cranky pulls using amazing holds. Placement of the bolt on Direct Variation through final overlap (to the right) confuses finish - ignore this bolt.

Équip.: Paddy McCann

FA: Guy Holwill & J. Orrock, 1988

Sportive 25m, 12 Sanddrif
20 The Cure

Crux is around the 7/8th bolt.

FA: Roger Nattrass, 2017

Sportive 15m, 8 Umgeni Valley
20 That Booty Magic

On the tower on the left. Start from the rock platform on the right. ±1-2m above the ground

FA: Cormac Tooze, 18 Mars 2018

Équip.: Cormac Tooze, 18 Mars 2018

Sportive Truitjieskraal
20 Sad Lament for your Phallus

FA: S. Douglas, 1988

Sportive 3 Peer's Cave
20 Don't Squeeze I'll Laugh
1 20 15m
2 19 12m
3 20 30m
4 20 20m

FA: G. Lacey & E. February, 1982

Trad 77m, 4 Table Mountain
20 A Fresh Start

This is the direct line for 'Amajuba' and was only possible once most of the dodgy looking large overhang to the right of the 'Amajuba' start fell down the mountainside. Take the line of bolts through the overhang to the right of the “Amajuba” start. From the ledge, finish up 'Amajuba'. A nice sustained line. You will need a sling for the top as noted for 'Amajuba'.

FA: Bruce Sobey & Cedric Sobey, 2009

Sportive 7 Winston Park
{FR} 6a+ Twende

Crux at the end. Shares anchor with No Hurry in Kenya

Sportive 25m Mt Ololokwe area
20 Dental Floss Tycoon

FA: Tony Lourens

Équip.: Tony Lourens

Sportive Truitjieskraal
{FB} 5A Baboon Bones

Sit-start and climb the easy corner.

Bloc Rocklands
20 Palmiet Arête

FA: P Geartner, 2002

Sportive 15m, 6 Kleinmond
E1 UKT:5b K.L. Corner

The corner crack between the two faces is climbed free (natural pro).

FA: D.D. Gray & Ian Howell, 1971

Trad 22m Lukenya
{SA} 20 Cranky Cowgirl

FA: Malcolm Gowans, 2007

Équip.: Malcolm Gowans, 2007

Sportive 8 Rocklands
20 Welcome to the Machine

FA: T. Lourens, Juil 2023

Sportive 35m, 20 Montagu
20 Time of the Oath

FA: D. Marshall, 2001

Sportive 10 Montagu
{FB} 5A If Only

Sit-start with good hold under roof and climb up the large flake.

Bloc Rocklands
20 Cramcakes & Scumbags

starts 4m right of RR on a rocky ledge in a corner. Tricky start.

FA: Louis Smit & Wiliam Graham, 2004

Sportive 6 Chosspile
20 Living on a Prayer-Direct

Équip.: A. Davies

FA: A. Davies, 2004

Sportive 12 Sanddrif
20 Dumpster

First, second and third ascensionists say 20, and without gloves. There is talk of it being harder. Def harder if you can not hand jam. I am open to upgrading.

FA: Cormac Tooze, 28 Avr 2018

Équip.: Cormac Tooze & Mountain Club of South Africa, 28 Avr 2018

Sportive 6 Silvermine
20 Comfort Zone

Situated in the middle of the short face on the very left.

FA: Hector Pringle, Gareth Frost, N. McKenzie, Darryl Margetts & Alan Grant, 2001

Sportive 6 Waterval Boven
E2 UKT:5b Los Penitentes

On the red face facing south picnic tree. One bolt at start, then traverse diagonally to the right, move up to holes. Then traverse left on horizontal crack until it thins down, with another bolt above the crack. Finish at bolted anchors.

FA: Ulf Carlsson & Nicolas Ganzin, 1996

Trad mixte 2 Lukenya
20 Dying to Fly

The first right leaning crack off the ledge, about 6m right of 'Doa'. A bouldery move to gain the slab.

FA: Clive Curson & Grant Murray, 1991

Sportive 8 Waterval Boven
6a+ La Classique

Fully but spaced bolted.

Sportive 290m, 9, 12 Haut Atlas
20 Little Fishies

Express anchors as lower-offs

FA: G. Hart, 2003

Sportive 3 Trappieskop

Affichage de 1 - 100 sur 1,772 voies.

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