Ascensions dans Australie comme croix de types variés par Scott Godwin

A good adventure in an awesome, intimidating place. I led p1,3,5,7 & 8 in mixed free/aid ('fraid) style, which is what you do when the big scary ocean that wants to swallow you and all the loose rock that wants to squash you makes you feel a bit 'fraid. We brought the portaledge and spent the night at Deano's ledge just for the hell of it. Great spot to sit, sip whisky and watch the ocean.

With Brendan, Nice route. Some runouts, but usually on easy ground. I led p 1,4,6 and half of p 2. Got a bit off route on p2 and ended up breaking the pitch into two to deal with the killer rope drag.

With Andrew.

With Laura. I led all pitches. Finished up the corner then stepped left to the new bolts.

With Laura.

Yosemite training. Mostly aiding from bolt to bolt. Cleaned on jumars.

Swinging leads on a warm day with Graham. I led pitches 2,4,6 and 8. The crazy crack was awesome!

Made a mess of this one. Sketchy clip to get up onto the headwall above the slab, with distinct possibility of a nasty fall. Ended up pulling on a cam to get over the top of the steep section.

Awesome climb. Didn't feel confident to lead it so 2nded see what it was like. Would be a scary lead. Start it stink hard, but the rest is like a 16.

Great! With Graham.

Cool climbing on the dyke features. Nice lead by Pok.

Led in the dark without consulting the guide to see that gear is required at the top. The twelve metre runout was kind of scary.

With Laura. Found a snake in the big pocket near the nut placement, so I went out right. There are plenty of options for gear.

Still hadn't managed this on top rope the week before, but got the clean lead first go today using Dave's beta for the crux. Much better that way.

Repeat to make sure that it wasn't a fluke. Felt pretty solid. Dave got his redpoint after a few falls at the crux too.

Top rope solo. Figured out the sequence for doing the crux direct, but couldn't do the move without tension from the rope. Mantling the ledge to the left works, but feels like cheating.

Again to retrieve the stuck rope.

With Laura and Andrew. First pitch felt more like 18. Not much gear. I may have strayed away from the line. Second pitch is nice.

Nice climbing. Quite runout in places but fairly easy.

Amazing. Full value for the grade. Huge atmosphere with scary run out moves to get established in the crack. Belayed on the big ledge then linked P2 and 3 from there to the 3 pin belay together, which worked well. Extra entertainment provided by our stupid friends doing Mr chicken at the same time.

Excellent, easy slab climbing with good, but spacey gear.

More or less onsight. Draws placed on the bolts on rap. Phil told me it was 22 so I was surprised to find it relatively easy. Bit of a one move wonder, but good, well, protected climbing. Done on the day the Shady side caught fire.

Led clean on gear without clipping the stupid bolts.

Laura had cleaned to the first bolt, so the top draws were in situ. Nice moves with an inobvious crux at the first bolt.

Top rope solo while I waited for the others to show up.

With Cam and Mike. I pulled on a lot of gear on second to avoid loading my shoulder. 1st time was in 2011 with Laura.

Nails. Started on lead but got completely bamboozled. It looks like something has broken off recently near the first bolt. Took multiple tries on top rope just to work out the moves. Felt pretty hard for 22?

Tried it on top rope after hearing that it might be hard to protect on lead. Clean first go. Great climbing. Sussed out the gear. All looks pretty bomber and the stances are good. Lead next time.

No excuses not to lead this now. The wires all seem bomber.

Cleaning for Dave.

Top roped after Will to clean the gear. Always good.

Seconding to clean Nate's gear.

Really good.

Really nice climbing.

Got scared of the dirty top out. Clipped a draw on our fixed rap line that was hanging conveniently close.

Repeat. Always good.

Hard to walk past this without doing a lap.

Zillionth lap, but still classic. Got a bit pumped.

Pretty scary. Maybe I was on the wrong line, but I found hardly any gear.

A fantastic pitch which I climbed in less than fantastic style. It was freezing cold, and I launched up this with no warmup. I was overcome with numb fingers and flash pump just past the old carrot. Lowered off, went for a walk and sat in the sun for a while to warm up my frozen hands, then tied back in and finished it clean yo-yo style.

With Rick. Awesome exposed moves up the arete.

Awesome and way better protected than I thought it would be. There's gear all over place!