Ascensions dans Grampians par Chris Snell contenant trad-cpr ou ascent-date

Good

Thanks to Danny for the gear and KP for the beta spray

Great new bolts all the way. This is now very safe and accessible for a Taipan route. The crux jump is harder than the mirage dyno.

Started via the first two bolts of Father O. Makes for a more consistent route - at least that’s what I’m telling myself until I figure out the crux!

Great route. Rage section is in the most awesome position with great crimpy moves then the top half (Angst) has a number of moves that require effort in between some reasonable shake outs. Was lucky to get the gear in and send first shot as I was too pumped to have a second attempt!

Really good. Tech moves between good holds and gear

V6 Boulder on monos off the top of the 22. Quite a nice little sequence.

Good gear. Route is straight up the central crack in the middle of the buttress. Step 1 metre right before going over bulge.

Fun runouts. The hard moves are close to bolts. Nice new ring bolts. Should get more attention

Nice route. Found some heel-toe-foot-knee-leg beta that helps up top. Next time!

Fun route. Sneaked up this today on Troy’s gear which was awesome. This was pretty much the first route I tried on Taipan 20 odd years ago. Couldn’t do the dyno that time but got lucky this time!

Quite tough for the grade but well protected. Has a lovely move around the first bolt that feels like a gym move.

Crux slab on pitch 2 is technical and easier for taller climbers. Great route

Lead as a single pitch. Lowered off anchors back to chain at end of p1 with rope to spare. 80m rope.

One green cam and one yellow cam to supplement bolts

At least as good as Mr Joshua.

Very onsightable provided you don’t expect to do it after working projects all morning!

Great fun. Climbed with a small diversion towards Sirocco above second bolt to make a more balanced climb. This start would be good for Sirocco also.

Nice to tick this again after struggling to hold the crimps on Sheik Naja Ket.

Great fun adventure. Two ropes useful but not essential. Long draws essential. Cams up to size 2. The top pitch as described steps left after the final bolt but I’ve done it twice by staying right and going up the arête which is awesome (and cleaner) at the same grade.

Cruxy

Bouldery moves right wards to easier arête.

Really good

Fabulous

Worth it

Pumpy