Voies dans Ku-ring-gai Chase

Not much to it but it's a fun warm up if you don't mind a bit of dirt

hard small pockets and crimps

dangerous fall. hard mantle at the top. practice on top rope using the big tree as an anchor

This will shred your hands, dyno to finish hold of cyclone

start low in the back of the cave in the middle of the ledge. traverse all the way around to the left and head straight up onto the big rail on the roof and finish at the and of it.

extension to smoko. continue up from the finish of smoko heading left a bit after the big jugs to find hidden crimps that lead to the top. sketchy but satisfying finish with a great view on the top.

this climb goes from the very left side of the overhang and continues all the way around the corner with an optional high ball top out

Starts on jug deep in cave, finish with mantle over the lip. Crag Classic

Start on Jug in cave, swing out left. Match on final pointy hold to finish.

start down in the back of the cave on large hold and traverse out to the lip of the roof then continue on the same as smoko. V5 if you climb this, the main climb and the extension. Take caution on move climbing out of the cave as it is close to the edge of the cliff.

start under the roof facing out holding the obvious big sloper with your right hand and the jug out to your left (facing out from the crag) swing feet up for heel hook. Top out finish

never been done clean. too sandy

traverse on the overhang using only the holds on the edge of the roof.

the start holds seep a lot after rain. v4 if it is all dry

Up line of small holds and nasty slopers to tricky topout. Maybe v7/8

Dyno from the slot to the jug and top out.

From flat jug, go straight up the line of crimps to a jug and top out.

From slot, unwind directly up the narrow line of crimps, slopers and sidepulls to top out.

Up the hanging rib and top out right.

Top out rightish but not using the jug fin out right crack and bulge.

Up the hanging rib and top out left.

Slabby looking wall, actually overhung.

Bulgy wall.

Follow the rib from low around the scoop.

Left up the ramp.

Pleasant climbing through juggy pinches to a heinous mantle crux

The prow.

The lip.

Feature up the guts.

High and slopey.

High and scoopy.

Start low in compression on a right hand crimp and left sloper. Climb straight up. Super morpho but fun for the tall.

The egg. Seam/groove on the left.

Just behind Sharik's Arete. Sit start on sidepull to mantle onto boulder.

Up the arete over the fallen block.

Left of Sharik's Arete.

Slab in behind

Just off the freestanding boulder.

Right arete of freestanding block. Fantastic.

Featured wall. Blank top?

Rounded arete

Sit start in cave and follow lip rightwards.

Sit start down low on flat hold and make way directly up and over.

Left arete.

Sit start, follow the feature up and left to mantle.

The wall. Maybe ~V10

Stand start on large sidepull and slab your way to the top.

Stand start up middle of slab.

Stand start over the big rusty cube and head straight up.

Up Bikkies for 3m then traverse right under roof. Up to roof and traverse left along break then up.

Up the obvious crack.

5m left of Bikkies.

5m left of Wringer at broken slab.

Wide short crack left of "Rays not Happy"

FA; solo + others

Overhang start just right of "From Another Galaxy"

FA; solo + others

Easy Wall 3m right of "Wall" Traverse left to arete and up 4BR and DBB.

FA; solo + others

The first route you come to on the low angle slab beneath the small pink gum tree. (Also has two top ring bolts) straight up slab 4BR and DBB

Start: marked with square and three chipped footholds. Up to flake and right of runnel 3BR and DBB

FA: Thin off deck, join flake/runnel above - J.Crass solo (was grade 20 before those chips)

Direct start up slab, clipping BR's on 'Three Chips and a Square / Slab, shared DBB.

Start: marked with square, right of crusty carrot.

Old route. Trend left to edges and appallingly crusty carrot.

FA: grade 21, up slab (old carrot), do not use crack

The pockets could protect this good line; + others solo

As per the name, in the corner crack left of Bumbliferous Buttress, a solo down climb

On left side of base of rounded buttress. Up to ledge, then right. Originally soloed. 3BR and DBB. One of the lower off bolts has been partially cut, but I think it's fine to use as part of a lower-off. I estimate that it would still hold a LOT (5 to 10 kN), is only subject to lowering forces, and is paired with another full strength Ubolt. mikl law

Crack left of "Cabramatta" -Solo + others

One move boulder problem with no pro. - Solo

0.5m Left of better than Hailstones

Start: Marked BTH. Left side of little wall

Dirty (now) wide corner crack, originally solo.

Start: Marked, 1m left of Trek.

A really hard first move, up wall don't cheat by using finger lock on the right.

Start: Marked, 1m left of Magpie Wall.

Lovely layaways up the arete. Take care with the thin flake at the top. Two variants one harder than the other.

Stickclip first bolt on left and start up Spider Monkey, then up arete on left side of scoop. Up jug to arete and up to loweroff.

Start left of the the overhanging arete at the left end of the big wall, about 8m R of Bumbaliferous Buttress. Stick clip bolt (or solo up) then easy slab to lower off

There's an easier start on the left (Magpie Pride, 12) or a harder start staying right of the arete (21) where the initials have been painted.

Start: marked, blunt arete 3m right of Spider Monkey and 2m Left of Ms Meggsey. Jug up past bolt to ledge, 1.5 Friend , then clip bolt, scurry off left easily or up arete (20) harder.

Start: 6m L of EC at thin crack with dirty chossy (now) start. Utilise 1.5 and 2.0 Friends to protect, hard exit left.

Up the thin overhanging wall to diagonal groove up high. 3 SSGIB and two more for anchors. Needs more cleaning.

Start: 4m L of EC

Corner at right side of smooth wall. Up the pleasant crack to DBB

Start: 6m L of Orgasmatron. Direct or up corner then head up and right, thin and technical past 3rd of 4 Ubolts to DBB.

Start 1m right of Flip Top Head

Hard start, mantle, Friends protect moves, clip bolt , then diagonally right to clip next bolt, finish up crack as for Flip Top Head.

Steep! Wall and roof left of Orgasmatron to big flake on lip.

Start: Leaning arete 10m L of Dr T. Originally started up dirty corner with footholds, better to start up Bubbles. Up the airy arete (mostly on right side) and up headwall past 4 rings to loweroff. Described by the first ascentionist's as "Fear in the Western World" in miniature.

Start: marked, 1m right of Orgasmatron. Loose!

Original ascent solo by G.James - he noted that there were boulders poised to fall out. (Someone subsequently chipped the start) Up the staircase, veg ledge, then up blocky low angled corner or giant wall jugs. Tree belay.

One of the best easy routes here. Start 3m L of Dr T

Start up Cartoon Physics, then balancy move up right wall past BR. Single SS carrot anchor and Ubolt above Recycle, or tree further back.

Start: Prow 6m L of pocketed wall. Compression moves up a steep fridge, up past 2 Ubolts (rebolted) to lower off on right (shared)

Start up Garbage Truck then left below 3rd Ubolt, hard move to get to jug at anchor.

Start: marked, 3m left of corner. Up the juggy wall and right across the slab to finish up past stainless carrot.

Start 1M left Corniferous corner 3Br to DBB (shared with Garbage Truck).

Two move left-leaning corner crack with with good edges on the face.

Corner solo by W.Paton, J.Crass + various others

Start: Left end of pocketed wall Thin crack just right corner. (solo by FA's)

Start: marked, 0.5m left of PS. Stickclip first ring

Steep overhanging pocketed wall to rounded finish with runnels, don't escape left.

Start: Thin flared overhanging crack with Cryptostylis orchids growing in the top - can we leave them alone?

Note - Original FA exited to the right at top.