Ascensions dans Sydney Metropolitan par Ben Jenga contenant sport-cpr ou ascent-date

Pumpy repeat, classic fun

Sure is a pumpy one, just have to keep moving. The crux move around the budge is pretty blind and powerful but rad.. Getting to the anchor felt like the hardest moves when pumped. 25/26?

Something different

Primo connies for the slopes on this one. Prefect gramps training

But only just, loved the moves to and above the giant pocket but the pump almost splat me off the end. Dirty hand jamb anchor clip..

Just like a mini spurt wall. Looks dirty from the ground but pretty clean at the moment and great pumpy fun.

First shot today

Clipped the anchor from the bad holds, Now for the extension..

Warm down lap, almost fell off.

Logical extension, no moves any harder then the 23 just a bit more pump.

FFA. Done and done, cleaned the holds first lap and remembered the moves. Chilled on the ledge for a while second shot and screamed my way to the top.

A hard one to grade this one, 23 to a sit, reachy 5 move V6, then the pumpy top move of the junkyard extension..

Great tension boulder problem on cracker rock. We didn’t see higher anchors.

Thuggy and awkward, glad I got it second shot but it was a fight.

Nevermind the L knee, the R knee rock over is boss.

Tricky boulder to ok slab, worth putting your shoes on.

While the climb might not be that hard if you are tall, getting to the first roof hold was awkward and dirty action. Nail the first 2 pockets and its 20 to the top or back in this case..

FFA. Oh how sweet it is to send this dream line. 14 shots over 5 weeks, first shot today done and dusted..

My hardest and best first ascent, who want the second ascent??

Short lap, pity is so short.

I said I would give it a try Neil.

More awesome roof jugs. V5 boulder with a couple of clips then join Ghetto just before the knee bar. Not too bad for the grade if you can pump. Second shot.

Love this route, the slopes are awesome. Did it with the direct finish.

What a classic pumper.

Almost didn't see the undercling, big moves at the top. Bailed around the last move as all I could see was leaves and grass. Nice and clean up there now.

I lost the rock toss so Paul went up first to equip, brush and chalk. What service Made it pretty easy to sneak through for a quick flash. Great climbing with some terrible footers through the crux section. Should see more traffic.

Repeat, struggled first lap. The start boulder was easy on the send but almost blew it higher.

On the way up for the extension. Felt a bit stiff for a 3 but great climbing.

Not a true onsight as I had seen bundy trying the top moves.. Strangely I didn't find the top that hard, the thin move getting to the roof felt the hardest. A couple of long pulls on (sinker) pockets.

Yep it was dirty, sandy, dampy and pumpy. Still had a great time reaching between the big holds and big chips. You really have to want that top slope.

That first crux was that hardest I had to pull all day. I really liked the traverse, just have to trust your toes. I got mixed up at the end and finished up the hard pockets at the top of Ergonomics.

The lesser of the two but slightly harder, helped that I knew the top move.

FFA. Flashed First ascent.. All the hard moves are in the Riot Wing start, get a good rest half way then seek on for bigger holds.. Thanx for gifting me your old project Matt.

I was very keen to clean up this old gem.. Super fun climbing with very involved and sequenced moves through the crux. 4 holds in 4 metres.. Still took 3 shots..

2 eod laps, one to clean and a one sit punt lap. Better then I remembered, great fun.

One of my faves for the day. Jugs for days with knee bars and swinging heels.

Fun route wade, 3 crux's split by good rests. I was climbing well until I got bogged down in the dirt cracks up top. This really reminds me of the far cave a Mt Alex. Onsight on wades project draws.

Such a classic pumper, nice to chuck a lap on pauls draws. Solid forearms at the top, you have to top out for a full tick.

Repeat. Easy if you are strong.

Had to give it two laps.

Numbed out and got stuck on the traverse.

The only route I have ever fallen off at the GFC

Did the long first pocket boulder but couldn't figure out the second boulder off the sandy and slick mid height jug. Gave it a good scrub, did the move then draws up. After a short rest I sent second shot but the top crux on TDS was a real fight.

A tuff number indeed, once you pull the crimpy crux it still stays on to the top.

A good egg bundy, I found this hard at the grade with some very smear feet and sustained climbing.

Second shot yeah yeah. My last hard route in the cave, and a classic route to finish on. This climb is super fun and considerably more quality then it looks. Wicked steep slope and heel traverses to a pumpy cave and sloppy ledge. Rad!! Maybe 28 in bad conditions but 27 for sure in today pearly conditions.

Sh*t yeah first shot today!! Such a high quality and fun rig. The top two bolts are very easy climbing but you would kick yourself if you fell off.

Couple training laps, none clean on the top section.

Awesome route that is much steeper, sustained and pumpy then it looks. Took me a little while to figure out the transition from the jugs onto the flake… Climbed via a very unique one of a kind boulder sequence then its just a matter of containing the pump through the better part of beep beep. Thank god for the jug on beep beep, I was wailing loud.

True this is a cool roof, true that it may be the longest in the shire but its let down by sharp holds and poor rock in places.

A bit of hammer/file action would see it bump up in the ratings I am sure.. I think a couple of holds have broken at the crux, still same grade.

Taking the draws down, I did it without the knee bar for extra pump.

Probably some best climbing I did. Committing start then fun roof jugging. With the draws up its only 24 really.

A good bit of fun, the crux is short lived but pretty slopey. I misread the top half and climbed direct up the arete only to find plenty of dirty rock. Cut left after the crux on nice clean rock.

Approach shoes cleaning lap.

Bummer I really wanted to onsight this but came unstuck one hold from the anchors. Not as good as I was hoping Sharp and awkward.

Second shot

EOD repeat. Great line, a few more slopes then I remember.