Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | Falaise | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
23 | ★★★ Caveman
A real adventure, one of the best 23's in Sydney. Starts up undercling, traverse left up into the cave, then up left of cave to anchors.Back jump to fixed biners to clean. FA: Lucas C, 2016 | 22m, 10 | Elanora Heights | ||
23 | ★★★ Ruthless Babe
Mega. Start 2m L of Bitchin FA: David Barnes, 1992 | 12m, 5 | Bluebell | ||
V4 | ★★ The Bilge
Start on flake then pocket and up to slot and mantle over. Start: Sit FA: Will Holbrook | 3m | The Balkans | ||
24 | ★★★ Lean Beef
Some of the best rock in Sydney. 6 rings crossing wall from right to left - then big move up final wall to double RB Lower off. Very reachy - or dynoy. There is a large loose block at the last bolt - take care. Bolted from mixed trad to sport by CT FA: Mike Law 1990s | 15m, 6 | Bonnet Bay | ||
23 | ★★ Scones of Doom
Up through the scoopy slopers to ledge (avoiding spinning RB). Back out and onto head wall (RB) and up to DRB lower-offs. FA: Mikl Law | 15m, 4 | Berowra | ||
V4 | ★★ Dead Calm
Stand start on big undercling on the far left of the roof. Climb rightward to top out on the nice sidepull feature. Tsz Ying Yau | 3m | Black Cave | ||
V4 | ★★ Diplomatic Immunity
Sit start low in the chalked break on jugs then into the vertical seam, contort yourself (unless short) then up and slightly left to top out. FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | The Balkans | ||
23 | ★★ Imogen
Sustained and way cool. The rounded arete just left of the Cathedral Cave. Do not stem up the wide corner ('Imogen Easy (but Scary) Start', grade 21); climb just left of the first two bolts (grade 23). If you stickclip, then better to clip the second bolt directly as the first one offers little protection. FA: Jason Lammers, 2008 | 15m, 7 | The Cathedral | ||
23 | ★★★ Tilt
One of the best routes in Sydney!Are you ready to get your tilt on? New bolts (1994). Start, up log (as for SSS) then rightwards (put sling through 2nd bolt to avoid leverage on biner) and through roof FA: Michael Law, 1985 | 15m | Narrabeen | ||
24 | ★★★ The Junkyard Dog
Absolute classic steep climbing on Grampians quality rock. Slabby scoop then up seam crack to stance. Swing right on incredible jugs then back left on more jugs to anchor. This is a shared start with 3 other routes so get it dial. FA: Matt Brooks, 2012 | 17m | The Woolwash | ||
24 | ★★ Cyrus The Virus | 15m, 8 | Elanora Heights | ||
V4 | ★★ Foam
Start in the couple of pockets in the roof, explode out for the slope lip, up the prow and then continue on to finish - one of Sissy's highest problems. Classic! | 3m | Forestville | ||
V4 R | ★★ Battle of the Shirts
Climb the left side of the'fish' arete using anything to a tricky top. Start: Sit FA: Gordon Low | 4m | The Balkans | ||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse
Another crag classic. Traverse on any line, any direction, between the cave on the left and the arete on the right. Punchy and desperate in spots. | 10m | Queens Park | ||
23 | ★★ Bitch'n
Start 2 m right of the little tree, and just left of a block. Nice and 'Steep', Delicate over the bulge and then get on trucken to the end. Move L to anchors as for Ruthless Babe. Rebolted 14/07/2015. FA: Dave Barnes, 1993 | 12m, 5 | Bluebell | ||
V4 | ★★ Thy Mighty Right Hand
Power, reach and commitment! Sit start just right of the rounded arete on some angled ledges. Head up to the two good pockets mid way up the way. Get your feet high and power up to thy mighty right hand slap into the rounded scoop! Hold fast, trust it and topout! This problem loves the long but extra points for the short who conquer it. Équip.: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013 FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013 | 4m | East Killara | ||
V4 | ★★ Dentalectomy
M1, L2, M2, L3, M3, L4, R5, M5. A classic. Harder for shorties. Worthwhile subtle variations at similar grade include (i) M1, L2, M2, L3, M3, L5, M5, and (ii) M1, L2, M2, L3, then LH to jug 50cm right of 5, and match. | 4m | Forestville | ||
24 | ★★★ Wake Up Time To Fly
Start at under cling slab up and trending left as the lip does until you reach the roof.Back jump to fixed biners to clean. FA: Jason, 1995 | 18m | Elanora Heights | ||
24 | ★ Natasha
Climb through pockets to tackle thin section above 4th bolt to gain chain Start: 3m right of 'Fox Sox Pox' FA: Scott Butler | 12m, 4 | Berowra | ||
23 | ★★ Arêtica
Up through the breaks and then left out over the black rock to the orange streak to the final short arête finish. FA: Wade Stewart, Heath Black & Jason Lammers, 24 Jan 2015 | 15m, 8 | GFC | ||
V4 | ★★ Call a Lawyer
Start low and crimp left up the wall to a slopey and committing top out. | 3m | Jannali Reserve | ||
V4 | ★★ Kim's Arete
Choose your conditions; the slopers are far from positive and dry, cold conditions could make all the difference | 3m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V4 | ★★ Snakebite
Pinch the plate, paste your feet and reach around bulge to crimp to join I10. FA: Matt Wilder | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V4 | ★★ Wall Crawler
Trend right to top out. | 3m | Jannali Reserve | ||
23 | ★★ Show Us Your Form
12m R of Vintage Direct at tree. Easily to roof and heave yourself up and past lip to laybacky glory. FA: Dave Barnes, 1984 | 15m, 4 | Alfords Point | ||
23 | ★★ Flying Kites
Nice and Pumpy. Up arete past 5 U bolts, then move right to shared lower offs. FA: G Morton, 2000 | 15m, 5 | Bluebell | ||
V4 | ★★ Ralph's Arete
Easiest line up the arete, started using the incut pocket | 4m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V4 | ★★ Leap of Faith
Hallelujah, I believe... undercling the big feature, then praise the lord and grab the good edge above. Phillip Booth | Mauricio Chino FA: Adam Griffiths | 4m | The Balkans | ||
V4 | ★★ Bedside Manner
A good long link-up, and the best of this little collection. Start: Start on the right hand of the scoop, traverse left and big move to topout. | 5m | Jessicca's | ||
24 | ★★ Sweet Charlotte
A great pocket pulling crux. Start 3m R of Vintage Direct, up thin walls and pull roof. All Ubolts now FA: Dave Barnes, 1994 | 15m, 6 | Alfords Point | ||
24 | ★★ Glamorpus
Awesome overhanging route Start: nice little mantle then awesome climbing | 18m | Berowra | ||
V4 | ★★ Nuclear winter
L1, R2, R3, L4, R5, M5 | 3m | Forestville | ||
V4 | ★★★ The Arete
Start on the right, move onto the arete itself, then back on the right. | 6m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
23 | ★★★ Hercules Extension
Was always hard for 23 for a move, then easy slabbing to the top. Pre-clipping the anchor with a sling loses 2 grades, and all your self-respect. From the double RB's on 'Hercules', blast up, 2 RB's to double RB lower off (rebolted 2008) FA: Mike Law, 1990 | 22m | The Cathedral | ||
23 | ★★ Kaos
Start 2 m L of Cornered. Step onto R end of small ledge and balance left. Up past 3 rings then weird horizontal dyno R and up small flake to top (as for Fascination Street). Originally soloed! FA: Mike Law, 1979 | 9m, 5 | Earlwood | ||
23 | ★★ Give Me Souls
Start 10m R of SUYF in cave. Up steeply left and on to the head wall. The first move is the crux, unless you start about 1.5m right of the first bolt - which lops off at least a grade. | 15m, 7 | Alfords Point | ||
23 | ★ Sweatheart
Just left of AS. Stays on the vertical wall between the AS slab and the offwidth of F. DBB Up past the natural thread. Crumbly flakes to small crimps and a steep finish up and left. It was named Sweatheart because it was done on one a crazily humid day. FA: Mike Garben & Garry Pienaar, 2003 FFA: Ziggy Samways, 23 Juil 2017 | 12m, 4 | Barrenjoey | ||
V4 | ★★ Cool
Sit start on underside of flake on 45 degree o'hung wall. Up flake then left and up slab/flake/corner FA: Cameron Taylor | 6m | Bangor Blocs | ||
24 | ★★ Go Go Gadget - 2010 Remix
Right of MG, at thin vertical seam, battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall. Originally toproped a bit right at the start. Keep off the larger holds to the right to earn the grade. | 10m | Bangor West | ||
24 | ★★ Expectorant
Start up corner as for 'Anticoagulant' and 'Hercules' then up through caves to tenuous finish on line of bolts a meter left of 'Hercules'. FA: Mike Law, 2011 | 15m, 4 | The Cathedral | ||
23 | ★★ Hopit
Square cut arete. Thin and technical. Originally soloed FA: Mike Law, 1975 | 8m | Earlwood | ||
V4 | ★ Rigid Fist Up Bum
Sit Start on the polished jugs on the lip and move up and slightly right to finish matched in the break. | 2m | Forestville | ||
23 | ★★ Fifty Shades of Mt Druitt.
Climb the start of Junkyard dog and then break left under the roof, around the arete, left some more and up. Best to second to clean or back jump. FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012 | 25m | The Woolwash | ||
V4 | ★ 8
Just right of the tree. Grab two small crimps and crank on up | 4m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V4 | ★★ The Bright Side Var
When you reach the slopey lip on the bright side, move right to the big knob and mantle through the scoop. Alex Stokes | 2m | The Balkans | ||
23 | ★★ Hidden Gem
The flake, grey face and flake 40m left of the steep prow. Finish with hands on top of cliff after the rooflet. FA: Matt Brooks & Tarid Colhouqn, 2014 | 12m, 6 | The Hide Away | ||
24 | ★★ Communal Spoon
Locate the "Spoon Bolt". Up and jug blissfully along the the flake to harder finish out left. Also has a direct finish at the same grade. FA: Jason Lammers, 2013 | 15m | The Woolwash | ||
24 | ★★ Image Intensifier
This shares the same start up and around the roof as Slap & Tickle, including campussing up on 'unique' holds. Then head straight up the mega yellow streak with fortitude. The original guide said something like 'a full grade harder than S+T', so it's probably 25. Note with interest the orignal grades of these were 21 & 23! An extra bolt was added to the headwall in 2018. One of the finest routes at Narrabeen steeps. FA: Mikl | 15m, 6 | Narrabeen | ||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor
Crag classic with some desperate and thin moves. Starting at the jugs below '2/3' stay at this height through crimps around the arete until moving up to the flat chalky hold in the middle of the scooped section. Continue from here finishing as for '2/3'. | 6m | Queens Park | ||
V4 | ★★ Compliments And Complaints
As for CAT, but go right through underclings to an easier finish over right. | 3m | Villas | ||
V4 | ★★★ The Piesker/ Child Overhang
Pull through the slots into a committing last move to the right and top out. | 5m | Queens Park | ||
24 | ★★ Little Big Roof
Middle of orange cave 10m R of Ultrafix Left. Up to roof and out. Easiest to backjump. FA: Mikl Law, 2015 | 12m, 7 | Koorabar | ||
23 | ★★ Early Bird
Starts just right of corner. Up bulging wall to low break, swing right across this and up to stance. Finish up wall on edges to shared anchor with left route. FA: Neil Monteith, Ben Jenga & Paul Thomson, 2012 | 15m, 6 | The Woolwash | ||
V4 | ★★ 8
Centre of the wall, aiming for the ironstone "horseshoe' crimps high in the middle. Very, very good. | 5m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
23 | ★★ Relax
Start: Right of Pickaxe. Extra bolt! FA: Mikl | 15m | Narrabeen | ||
23 | ★ Micro Dose
Starts just left of vegetated corner. At the 4th ring bolt throw a move out R, head up then back L to shared DBB lower off. FA: Andrew Forrest | 8m, 4 | Earlwood | ||
V4 | ★★ Don't Know
The crimps to the right of the seam | 5m | Palm Beach Boulders | ||
23 | ★★ Technorabble
Punchy! Steep iron cross move left followed by big cranks, original start hold has exploded so either big dyno or start to the right. Follow bolts to anchor (rebolted 2018). 3rd bolt is in a scoop and biners sit funny, extend if you're paranoid. Note that the 23 version of this heads left around the bulge, throwing for the sloper in the back of the slot. FA: Craig Martin, 1984 | 15m | Narrabeen | ||
23 | ★★ Smile Test
Corner 4m L of Heist Wall, reachy boulder start to sustained corner. It's not over till it's over. FA: Michael Law, 2018 | 10m | Elanora Heights | ||
V4 | ★★ Fat Women
From the jug at the far left corner of the cave move technically up to the slopey ramp and over. | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V4 | ★★ The Traverse
Start on the far left rail and traverse all the way to the chin-up bar. Finishing with both hands matched. | 10m | Forestville | ||
23 | ★★ Between the Lines
Sustained but contrived. Shallow right facing corner to rooflet. Right to flake on left side of corner - up this to arete then left and over roof. Easy to Mcdougall, but you still need to do the 23 move at the end. FA: Neil Monteith, 2010 | 16m, 6 | Bonnet Bay | ||
23 | ★ My Girl
Bouldery with Bolts. Up wall to giant U lower off. FA: Trevor Cooper-Williams, 1992 | 10m, 2 | Bangor West | ||
V4 | ★★ Fun Bags
Sit start, committing top out | 5m | The Fish Boulders | ||
V4 | ★ No Fat Boys
There used to be a lovely flake up the arete, but someone didn't glue it. | 4m | The Fish Boulders | ||
V4 | ★★ All Guns Blazing
L6, R7, L8, L9, R10, M10 From big flat edge, use a good right hand hold and do a big move to the top. Get a swing going. | 2m | Forestville | ||
V4 | ★★ The Lindfield Traverse - 5
A tough part of The Lindfield Traverse Complet. Undercut sandy footholds are off. | 8m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
23 | ★ Iron Chef
Start 1m left of Into The Void at seam. Desperate slabbing following the left hand line of a smorgasbord of carrots, fixed hangers and rings. Shares first ring with Into the Void. FA: Chris Yeomans, 2004 | 13m, 5 | Narrabeen | ||
24 | ★★ Slap and Tickle
Up and right, right to arete and up. Start: As for Image Intensifier. 3 extra bolts now! FA: Mikl | 15m, 7 | Narrabeen | ||
V4 | ★ The Butt Cracker Suite
One move from pockets. | 2m | The Fish Boulders | ||
V4 | ★ Shut up, I'm Broken
Start for Rocknasium and Cool, but stay low all the way across right to top out Rocknasium. FA: Troy Bartlett, 1 Déc 2018 | 3m | Bangor Blocs | ||
V4 | ★ Crewcut Sit Start
Sit start on right side of arete then up to pocket to join the rest of the problem. Worth Doing Start: Sit FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
23 | ★ Redneck Brother
Nice climbing with one sandy move. Use U bolts. Warning: The last bolt before the anchors is loose. FA: Dave Wagland, 1980 | 18m, 6 | Vaucluse | ||
V4 | ★★ BRAD BRAD
Sit start on the black jug above the B of BRAD and move through slopers under the second BRAD to the jug on the corner. Then a punchy heel hook up and over. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 2 Fév 2017 | 5m | Little Bay | ||
24 | ★★ Jim Beam
Left trending line with hard thin crux. Finishes back right with rad little roof flake. 4th bolt is hard to clip until it's at your chest. FA: Heath Black, 19 Jan 2015 | 12m, 5 | Bourbon Wall | ||
24 | ★★ Carbon Credits
Start: 5m right of S. Up thin face onto sharp arête and continue up to the top. FA: V Wills, 2007 | 16m, 8 | Mt Ku-ring-gai | ||
V4 R | ★★ Toe to Toe
Start with your left hand in the high pocket. Reach a good rail and do some funky footwork then straight up left of the scoop. FA: Tim O'Neill | 6m | The Balkans | ||
23 | ★★ Hampsters
2m right of Son of a Bad Man. A great and varied slab. (rebolted 2018) FA: Mikl, 1980 | 15m, 3 | Narrabeen | ||
23 | ★★ Welcome to Loom's
Up through pumpy overhang to a funky pocket move, and straight up seam to anchors.Short but great. FA: unknown | 10m, 6 | Elanora Heights | ||
24 | ★ Starfish
Start about 2m L of the corner (Slobbery Dog) and up then big move left. Lungey stuff. FA: Michael Law | 10m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
V4 | ★ Here Comes The Hercules
Up to breaks then long throw to one of the three knobs and tough mantle. Start: Sit FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V4 | ★ Just L of Missile Silo
| 2m | The Balkans | ||
23 | ★★ Woodstock
The most sustained route at the crag. Starts just right of large grass-tree growing against the cliff base, in the middle of the cliff. Fantastic orange rock with a tough move at the fourth bolt. Hands on top of the cliff for the full tick. FA: Heath Black, 19 Jan 2015 | 13m, 5 | Bourbon Wall | ||
V4 | ★★ 3
First of the up problems, from the big sandy footledge move out via two reasonable slots to finish up and right. | 2m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V4 | ★ Amnesty
Up the arete with the awful landing. High but the crux is down low. | 5m | The Balkans | ||
23 | ★★ Booby Traps
Start 5m R of HG at the fist size pocket. Through this up the jugs and up L onto the flake. Make a hard move to the next flake and then up onto the ledge. Finish with hand on the top. FA: Matt Brooks & Tarid Colhouqn, 2014 | 15m, 7 | The Hide Away | ||
V4 | ★ The Right Side | 2m | The Balkans | ||
V4 | ★★ Left To Right
Start with both hands inside the undercling on the far left. Then traverse left to right on the lip. The roof is out. | 3m | Black Cave | ||
V4 | ★★ Chemical Warfare
Start low on the big hole and move powerfully up via the slopey pocket. | 4m | The Fear Factory | ||
V4 | ★★★ Lime Spider
A shortish arete with some immaculate climbing. Technical, balancey and a brilliant classic. Stay on the right side. | 4m | The Fear Factory | ||
V4 | Never Smile At A Crocodile
Sit start at the north end of the boulder, traverse the lip to the south end and match on the 'high' jug. FA: Ziggy Samways, 29 Oct. 2017 | 1m | Palm Beach Boulders | ||
V4 R | ★★★ The Blank Wall
The testpiece of the wall. 'Required' qualification for the Lindfield Hardman badge. Scene of chip/fill shenanigans in the past. Classic. Chips have recently been filled in (Aug 2017). | 5m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V4 | ★★★ Bruce Lee
Super fun, challenging climb. Sit start left of vertical drill line, using two gaping holes. Move right and up to finish with your head touching the manky roof. Pivoting, smears, laybacks and slaps makes this a truly intricate, technical climb. If you don't mind Beta - check out this 3 star wonder here - http://youtu.be/81_X2kNe1Xo FA: | 3m | Blues Point | ||
V4 | ★★ The Brown Ghost
Sit start right of WYWH. Head up the thin arete/tufa to top out. Despite the hollowness, the rock is solid. Mauricio Chino FA: Patrick Reynolds, 4 Nov. 2018 | 4m | Jannali Reserve | ||
V4 | ★★ Dust Monitor
Stand start on the arete and climb it on its left side. FA: Neil Wallace | 4m | The Fear Factory | ||
24 | ★★★ Violet Town
Popular. Start as for TC. Blast straight up and over the small roof (BRs) to the obvious "eye". Continue straight up the wall (BRs) to double bolt belay. 8 BRs in total. FA: M. Myers, 1990 | 18m, 8 | Vaucluse | ||
23 | ★★ Claw Away
Contrived wall left of Cornered Again. Unprotected before the RBs appeared. FA: mikl law, 1975 | 9m, 3 | Earlwood | ||
24 | ★ Surfboard
Start 2m right of C on scooped arete in cave. Up arete and out past dodgy looking (but very solid) surfboard. Hard move around lip and up. | 15m, 4 | Narrabeen | ||
V4 | ★★ Big Wednesday
Just left of the two-hand feature in the middle is a good sized undercling. Start here and head out to a small slot above Pipe Dreams. From here, left to a sloping slot, right hand good pocket, top. | 3m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
24 | ★ 4 moves 3 bolts
18m R of main wall area, 2m R of a short crack. Up to horizontal and R to Ubolt. Up to big ledge and up wall easily behind. FA: Michael Law, 19 Juin 2014 | 18m, 3 | Alfords Point |