Ascensions dans South-Western Ontario par Olivier GK contenant boulder-cpr ou ascent-date

A beautiful December afternoon with good company. Happy to get the send of this testpiece! 4 sessions I think? Haven't been on this in almost a year and a half. First of the grade.

Only took me 3-4 goes but it's a quite hard and far first move. Pretty spanned out with 180cm wingspan. The slightly higher left foot helped the reach. Quality boulder. Top out is still mossy/dirty so just matched the top and exited off the right boulder

Tried this my first time out at the Glen and it seemed too scary. Easier than I thought it would be and absolutely easier than Sabishii. That left hand slot hold is perfect.

Better and less painful than "Ivy League". Good one for me to learn to trust my feet! Although I unlearned my lesson after my foot slipped on me as I was reaching for the jug, but luckily I caught it while falling. 0.01 seconds away from punting the top!

Enjoyed seeing incremental progress on this short but interesting problem. Beautiful sunny February afternoon by the river.

Does not add much to T&L.

Soft at V5. Worthwhile. Bad landing.

Pretty straightforward

Probably one of the better problems at CND. Cool movement. Spent a long time digging out mud from the holds at the top.

Thank you TC pros. Almost got the sit start too!

Thought it would go pretty fast since it's my style and it almost went first session. Tried it about 10x second session and couldn't stick the second ledge. Gave up for the day, but decided to do 1 last try at the end of the day after Nogoko and stuck it. Easily V7.

That remaining flexing flake does not inspire confidence... Hard one, but still possible despite the breakage.

Cool sequence

My attempt at contriving the hardest problem here. Probably one of the better problems. Big moves/cut feet/tension problem. I was hoping it would be harder though..!

Felt much better than last time I tried it 2 years ago. Got it first go. It all felt great until I got to the last jug with my right hand and hung there for about 30 seconds trying to figure out how to match it...

Tricky little problem with interesting holds. Glad I brought my brand new edging shoes for that little foot! Static to the pocket for the win.

Pogo start for the win.

Finally sent this thing... I did not use the slopers, instead opting for a triple 1/2 pad mono and thin side-pull. Still felt like V6 but much less frustrating!

Enjoyed working the beta on this one. Definitely worthwhile.

What a stellar problem!

#2go

Fun little powerful problem with a hint of technique. Recommended. First V6 flash.

Pretty cool opening moves

Sprayed some 99% rubbing alcohol on the holds to dissolve away the paint a bit. Friction is pretty good now! Best problem here.

Bucket to bucket.

Really enjoyed this one. High toe hook helped a lot after the two finger pocket. #3go

This is really not a good or fun problem at all.

That sit start is heinous, rest is pretty easy

Once I figured out it needed a heel hook, sent it right away. Maybe soft.

Short and powerful. The "thumb" is a decoy

Shirt mandatory to avoid scratch city. Would be a great problem if it wasn't contrived.

Initially felt impossible, but the stacked finger jam worked wonders.

Soft for the grade (V3?) with the amazing feet but quite a fun line.

Thought this was "Ripple Direct" and thought it was very soft for V6. Makes more sense now.

Great problem.

Found this dyno finish easier than BNW.

Enjoyable and not polished

Went 1st go but I did Mamma Mia first so not claiming a flash

Extremely soft. 1 hard move. ~V3

Just my style.

#2go

Harder than it looks despite the amazing feet!

Lovely heel hook.

Not sure why the guide-book calls this a one-move wonder. It's a quality route with plenty of beta to tweak. Recommended. I opted for the maximally spanned out beta.

Went from extremely low percentage to quite easy once I changed my beta to throw to the top with my left. Cool-looking boulder.

Really nice tension climb - quite enjoyed this little problem. First V5 flash

Ugly boulder, but it climbs well

Bit contrived? Hard not to dab. Felt pretty soft but maybe I went too far left.

Numb frozen fingers

Powerful first move, but otherwise almost purely technical and delicate. Beautiful sequence. Highly recommended.

Awesome climb! That mono is epic.

I tried the crux on my first time at the glen last year and thought "how can anyone crimp on this?" I guess my fingers got stronger