Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | Falaise | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
7b+ | ★★★ Spartacus
A popular island-classic. A steep crux on tufas, then another crux on smooth pockets. Équip.: D. Winkler, J.-B. Winkler & Michel Piola, 2002 | 20m | Kalymnos | ||
7c | ★★★ Priapos
A super steep and very long, typical Kalymnos-style climb. Big holds, good rests but also some technical and bouldery parts. [70m rope ok if tied off.] Some argue it's hard to grade because a successful ascent can take anywhere from 10 to 60+ minutes. Grade consensus is in the 7b+ to 7c range. The route is named after the greek god of fertility. Maybe due to the long skinny stalactite in the middle of the climb. Video: Sasha DiGiulian climbing Priapos Équip.: Yann Ghesquiers & Philippe Pellet, 2001 | 40m, 23 | Kalymnos | ||
7c | ★★★ Aegialis
An often photographed route because of its position on the edge of the Grande Grotta. Pumpy climbing with few rests. Équip.: George Kopalides & Yiannis Torelli, 1998 | 30m, 15 | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Tufa King Pumped
Two unusual cruxes and a hard clip make many climbers Tufa King Pumped to succeed. Équip.: Neil Gresham, 2004 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Mandragora
| 35m | Siurana | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Alfredo, Alfredo
Easyish climbing leads to a technical demanding crux and some power moves after, save some power for the end. Équip.: Andrea di Bari & team, 1997 | 20m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Scared Spirit
Entr.: 2020 | 26m, 12 | Kipoi | ||
7b+ | ★★ Bonzai
Équip.: 2005 | 15m | Kipoi | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Bistec De Biceps
| 15m, 5 | Siurana | ||
FB:6C+ | ★★★ Cortomaltèse
| Fontainebleau | |||
{FR} 7c | ★★★ Schmarotzer
FFA: Peter Schäffler & Marco Wasina, 1993 | 25m | Walgau | ||
7c | ★★★ Kaly Diva
Équip.: Aris Theodoropoulos, 2013 | 30m | Kalymnos | ||
7c | ★★★ Polifemo
Équip.: Andrea di Bari & team, 1997 | 20m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Daños colaterales (L1)
| 30m, 13 | Chulilla | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Tufantastic
An endurance focused tufa route with a more adventurous feeling. A lot less popular than other routes here. Shares the start with the popular Trela and Punto Caramelo, then follows the middle line of bolts. [70m rope ok if tied off.] Équip.: 2007 | 40m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Mind Boggle
A dynamic crux at the start leads to a balancy flowstone wall, a rest and finally the overhanging wall full of tufas. More bolt-lines than shown in the guidebook! At the rest/juggy ledge, follow the rightmost line of glue-in bolts. Équip.: Rich Prohaska, 2002 | 30m, 16 | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★ Big Ben
Same start as 'Barbar', but instead of going left, keep going straight up | 17m, 7 | Paschga | ||
7c | ★★★ Eros
A tufa broke off and its now 7c, boulder crux to pumpy tufa climbing. Équip.: Thomas Michaelides & Aris Theodoropoulos, 2002 | 20m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Inti Raymi
Équip.: George Kopalides, Christos Daniil & Aris Theodoropoulos, 2007 | 35m | Kalymnos | ||
{FB} 7A | ★★★ Enterprise | Magic Wood | |||
{FR} 7b+ | ★★ Stahlfinger
FFA: Jenny Kurt, 1994 | 13m | Walgau | ||
7c | ★★ Ländle Power
| 30m | Magletsch | ||
7c | ★★★ Vagabond d'occident
Soft for the grade. | 30m, 9 | Céüse | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Morgan
Équip.: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Dirlanda
Upgraded 2015 after losing a hold in the crux. Équip.: Simon Montmory & Aris Theodoropoulos, 2010 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ San Jones Pecos
Classic - bouldery finish. | 25m | Céüse | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Los Franceses
| 35m | Chulilla | ||
FB:7A | ★★ L'Oblique
sitstart to the right of Le Tiroir (red n°22) and dyno to the round arete on the right. FA: Gilles Cottray | 3m | Fontainebleau | ||
{FB} 7A | ★★★ L'Hélicoptère
climbe arête to right undercling, use high left sloper and dyno out to right jug. | 8m | Fontainebleau | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Blocage Violent
Popular. Tough for the grade. | 28m | Céüse | ||
9 | ★★★ Chasin' the Trane
Greenpointed by Heiko Queitsch in 2011. FFA: John Bachar, 1981 FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1981 | 25m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
{FB} 7A | ★★★ Distance
FA: Kainzer & Eder, 1998 | Kaseler Alm | |||
FB:7A | ★★ Graviton
FA: Jo Montchaussé | 4m | Fontainebleau | ||
7b+ | ★★ Themelina
Équip.: Aris Theodoropoulos & Konstantinos Lambadarios, 2004 | 18m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ El Prado Del Rey
| 30m, 11 | Siurana | ||
7c | ★★★ Nibelungalo
| 30m, 10 | Chulilla | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Pince Sans Rire
| 30m | Rodellar | ||
7b+ | ★★ Gore Tex
Same start as 'Barbar', but instead going left, go slightly to the right at the beginning | 20m, 8 | Paschga | ||
7c | ★★★ Bobby Brown
Équip.: Jeannot Kartheiser, 1985 FA: Charly Godissart, 1987 | 24m, 10 | Berdorf | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Maria Ponte el Arnes
| 35m | Rodellar | ||
{FB} 7A | ★★★ Bosna Genial | 3m | Magic Wood | ||
7c | ★★ Sirene
Équip.: Andrea di Bari & team, 1997 | 33m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+/c | ★★★ aloof | 20m, 9 | Meliggoi | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Chien Jaune
A steep, bouldery intro, then a technical wall on sharp but pleasant rock. Two holds at the start are often wet. Équip.: Claude Idoux & Luca Salsotto, 2010 | 35m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★ Lagneia Direct
Équip.: 2005 | 15m, 6 | Kipoi | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Nirvana
Équip.: Karsten Oelze, 2000 | 15m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Dr. Tabu
| 35m | Magletsch | ||
FB:6C+/7A | ★★★ Le Toit du Cul de Chien
to the left of the crack of La Nano (red n°6). Update : chipped hold in the end of 2006... | Fontainebleau | |||
7b+ | ★★★ Papagora
| 33m, 12 | Siurana | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Route 69
Équip.: François Poncet & Claude Idoux, 2010 | 30m | Kalymnos | ||
FB:7A | ★★★ Le Coeur
| Fontainebleau | |||
7b+ | ★★★ Super Carpe Diem
Extension to 'Carpe Diem'. Équip.: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Antonin Cherbonnier, 2004 | 40m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Sopas de ajo
Équip.: G.M.G.C | 23m, 8 | Rodellar | ||
7c | ★★★ Chipotle | 22m | Leonidio | ||
NWG:8 | ★★★ Susis Sovepose
FA: Per Hustad, 1987 | 15m | Drammen | ||
FB:7A | ★★★ Jet Set
| Fontainebleau | |||
7A | ★★★ Pueblo | Ruhrtal | |||
7b+ | ★★★ Ghost Rider
Pumpy and engaging tufa and mono-tufa action to the juggy rooflet and a very thin and beta-intensive final headwall. Équip.: Aris Theodoropoulos & Simon Montmory, 2010 | 38m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | Taillé ★★ Torellis Toys | 20m | Leonidio | ||
7c | ★★★ Elskling
Starts on the right side of 'Cicala la Cicala', then joins its upper section, heading right through the roof. Beautiful, pumpy roof with tricky kneebars. Équip.: Kamil Winczek, 2019 | 20m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Abolition des Privileges
1
7a+
26m
2
7b+
19m
At L1 anchors continue slightly right and straight up. Legendary boulder problem. Liking the two pitches together is 7c. Équip.: Serge Jaulin | 45m, 2, 14 | Chateauvert | ||
7c | ★★ Leistenbruch | 24m, 10 | Deponie | ||
9+ | ★★★ Not out of mind: Wolfgang Güllich
In remembrance of Wolfgang Güllich †. | 13m, 5 | Humboldtbunker | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Montgronyeta
Équip.: Jordi Pou | 20m, 9 | Margalef | ||
7b+ | ★★ Teoria Punset
| 28m, 10 | Siurana | ||
7b+ | ★★ La règle de je
| 18m | Vosges du Midi | ||
7c | ★★★ Berlin
Follow the impressive blue streak. Hard for the grade. Équip.: Eric Fossard, 1989 FFA: Eric Fossard, 1989 | 25m | Céüse | ||
7b+ | ★★ Tabarnac
1
6b
2
7b+
3
7b+
4
7a+
| 4 | Céüse | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Aquest any si
| 21m | Rodellar | ||
7c | ★★★ La Corva De La Felicitat
Équip.: Toni Alberto & F. Puig | 25m, 11 | Margalef | ||
7b+ | ★★ Je steiler je geiler
Équip.: R.Moor, 1992 | 15m, 6 | Basler Jura | ||
FB:7A | ★★★ Le Jeu du Toit
| 3m | Fontainebleau | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Festa Fotre
Équip.: Jordi Pou | 20m, 10 | Margalef | ||
9+ | ★★★ Hitch-Hike the Plane
| 25m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
FB:7A | ★★★ Zig zag | 4m | Albarracín | ||
{FR} 7b+ | ★★ Adabsurdum
| 25m | Walgau | ||
9 | ★★★ Liebe ohne Chance
FA: 1993 | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7b+ | ★★★ El pulpo te quedo crudo
| 8 | Tenerife | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Pipeline
Everyone says it's 7b | 28m, 10 | San Vito lo Capo | ||
7c | ★★ Nanuk
Équip.: G.M.G.C, 1992 | 25m, 9 | Rodellar | ||
FB:7A | ★★★ Zooruyo | 4m | Albarracín | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Bourré Mais Pas Pleine
A varied and long climb but aggressively chipped in the upper half. The route features blobs, pockets, a short slabby part, a single tufa, and a final corner. The route may not look like it from the bottom but kneebars make a difference. The grade-consensus is trending towards 7b. [70m rope ok if tied off.] Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 38m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Llargaruda
Équip.: Toni Albero, 1998 | 38m, 17 | Siurana | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Bibendum
Use the first quickdraw as a hold. | 35m | Céüse | ||
FB:7A | ★★★ Pif Paf
| Fontainebleau | |||
7b+ | ★★★ Gofio Canario
| 18m, 8 | Tenerife | ||
7b+ | ★★★ The Craic
Équip.: Adrian Berry, 2007 | 36m | Kalymnos | ||
FB:7A | ★★★ Le Toit du Cul de Chien
FA: Jo Montchaussé & Eddy Bouchet | Fontainebleau | |||
7c | ★★★ Eisvoleas
Équip.: Yannis Torelli, 2014 | 20m, 9 | Leonidio | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Les pourritures terrestres
| Vosges du Midi | |||
7b+ | ★★★ Fourtouna
Équip.: Bertram Prinz & Klaus Geiswinkler, 2000 | 30m | Kalymnos | ||
7c | ★★★ Affengeil
1
6c+
20m
2
7c
15m
| 35m, 2, 14 | Kalkofen | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Däiwel
| 12m, 8 | Berdorf | ||
7c | ★★★ Memory of Roli
Équip.: R.Moor, 1993 | 20m, 7 | Basler Jura | ||
7b+ | ★★ Norwegian Friends
Équip.: Ole Karsten Birkeland, 2012 | 12m | Kalymnos | ||
7c | ★★ Paris, Texas
Équip.: Aris Theodoropoulos, George Kopalides & George Koutsoukis, 2008 | 30m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★ Ivi Ole
Direct variation of Ivi. Clip first three bolts of Ivi, then straight up (rather than right) past a hard setup and a dyno to the hueco. Équip.: George Kopalides, 2014 | 20m, 9 | Kalymnos | ||
7c | ★★★ Lactic Shock
Équip.: Adrian Berry, 2007 | 36m | Kalymnos | ||
7c | ★★★ Occident
Don't underestimate the tufa finish on this climb - easy climbing until it isn't. | 30m, 10 | Terradets | ||
7b+ | ★★ Griffology
Équip.: S Koz & Hannes Webhofer, 2022 | 25m | Kalymnos |