Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
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Dim 26 Mai 2024 - Les Alpilles | |||||||
Fontvieille Grand yeux noirs | |||||||
5a ~5a+ | ★★★ Tableau noir | 35m, 12 | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Voie incroyable! Cotation 5a (topo pré 2022) juste sur l'ensemble de la voie sauf pour le dernier pas qui mérite son 5c
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Mer 15 Mai 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
T.C.F. (Turbo Cibi Facho) | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Dresden | 25m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
How could I forget to log this one! Absolute cracker, like TCF but not polished. Dogged it with the stick clip first to avoid the decking potential, then extended the 3rd and 4th draws. Fell on a jug after the crux second go, so I got to climb it again!
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Dim 12 Mai 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
T.C.F. (Turbo Cibi Facho) | |||||||
6c | ★★ Le Zoo Des Robots - avec Matt King, Caitlin Schokker | 20m | |||||
A bit easier than papa pas for me. Thanks for beta Matt
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6c+ | ★★★ Camembert Fergusson - avec Matt King, Caitlin Schokker | 15m | |||||
Felt easier than the slab to get to it, but its more my style. Thanks for the beta Matt!
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Dim 12 Mai 2024 - Venasque | |||||||
Place de l'Ascle | |||||||
6a | ★★ Lasissons les Dire | 29m | |||||
Slopey
More like 28-29m than 35m. Still had 4m of rope left on a 60 |
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6c+ | ★★★ Petite Marie | 36m | |||||
Cool crimp boulder to warm you up before a great juggy overhang
Climbed on a 60m with rope to spare
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7b | ★★★ Misanthropies Therapeutiques — 2 essais | ||||||
Was slowly scrapping my way through the endless jugs on the onsight when above the last bolt I encountered the final boss, a sloper. I found out after falling off that the sloper was also a jug and I just didn't reach far enough. Second shot equally as pumped but slightly more informed
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Sam 11 Mai 2024 - Dentelles de Montmirail | |||||||
Chaine du Grand Travers Rocher école | |||||||
4c | La Garce | ||||||
Location: 44.16182045686369, 5.02706124620741
Time: 17:23:59
Climb Duration: 00:18:41
Max. Heart Rate: 147BPM
Height: 28,33m
Tracked with Redpoint for Apple Watch. |
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Sam 11 Mai 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
La Baleine La queue de la baleine | |||||||
7b | ★★★ 1984 | 35m, 15 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Cool line, but not for injured me today
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Ven 10 Mai 2024 - Dentelles de Montmirail | |||||||
Chaine du Grand Travers Rocher école | |||||||
4b | ★★ La Petpluoktoncul | 20m | |||||
Location: 44.16194410209506, 5.027068067904402
Time: 18:47:14
Climb Duration: 00:34:43
Max. Heart Rate: 132BPM
Height: 36,57m
Tracked with Redpoint for Apple Watch. |
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Ven 10 Mai 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Face Ouest | |||||||
7a Difficile | ★★★ Le Loir | 30m | |||||
Loved the whole thing, until the part without footers near the top. Felt really beat up after this
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Ven 10 Mai 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Le Nouveau Far West | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Hop, hop, hop ! | ★★★ Classique | |||||
My kinda climbing! I frothed the whole thing
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7a+ ~7b | ★★★ Cococaline — 2 essais | 35m | |||||
Was super fun until the two crux sidepulls, which somehow felt wet, and got worse with every attempt. Didn't manage to link the full sequence once
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Jeu 9 Mai 2024 - Basses gorges du Toulourenc | |||||||
Aussiest | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Bonne Pioche | ★★★ Classique | |||||
Way easier than Demi Journee and completely different style - super nice tho
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6c | ★★★ Demi-journee | ★★★ Super classique | |||||
Also harder than the 7a... this one is super super super technical, quite airy bolted and demanding. Loved it!
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7a+ | ★★★ Les grandes gueules | ★★★ Classique | |||||
way harder than the 7a next to it. Super nice as well.
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7a | ★★★ Doudou et chouchou | ★★★ Classique | |||||
Spectacular one - super super nice. rather soft
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Jeu 9 Mai 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Le Nouveau Far West | |||||||
6b | ★★ Zone Revitalisation Rurale | ||||||
Cool corner climbing
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Jeu 9 Mai 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Face Ouest | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Voodoo Club | ||||||
Easy jugging up to 2 half pad or smaller monos and smear feet. One of my feet slipped right as I grabbed the next half decent hold, yikes.
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6a+ | ★★ Escale à Buoux | ||||||
Nice easier start followed by some techy smearing and a fully hands free slab section. Great stuff
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Jeu 9 Mai 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Colorado | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Tomahawk | ||||||
First pitch only. Too hot
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Mer 8 Mai 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
T.C.F. (Turbo Cibi Facho) | |||||||
6b ~6b+ | ★★ Alambic Sortie Sud | 20m | |||||
From about a week ago, logged the wrong climb
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Mer 8 Mai 2024 - Basses gorges du Toulourenc | |||||||
Bois de Feuillets | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ la marche forcee du pachyderme | 40m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
super homogeneous, completely my style
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Mer 8 Mai 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
T.C.F. (Turbo Cibi Facho) | |||||||
6c | ★★ Papa Pas Pou - avec Caitlin Schokker, Matt King | 22m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Gotta change this ascent as I had the wrong route; turns out the hard, sustained onsight from about a week ago was the 6b, not 6c whoops
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7a | ★★ Fin De Siècle (Dit Jolinouille) — 2 essais | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Be aware of the bird nesting in the jug to clip the 3rd bolt! (Clip from the sketchy sidepull below)
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Mer 8 Mai 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
No Man's Land | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Harlem Desir — 3 essais | ||||||
Gave it 3 attempts in an effort to try something harder; wow it's nails, hardest thing I've ever properly tried. In the end there were too many cruxes for me to commit any more time, but I learnt a lot!
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Mer 8 Mai 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
T.C.F. (Turbo Cibi Facho) | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Turbo Cibi Facho — 2 essais | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Amazing moves and pockets the whole way, shame it's the most polished in Buoux
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Mer 8 Mai 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Le Nombril | |||||||
7a | ★★★ La Rose Des Sables — 2 essais | 35m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Good to put this mega classic down after admiring it for a week or so. Cheeky hidden holds around the crux
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Mar 7 Mai 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Ouest L'idéal chimérique | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Clement comme ill respire | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
steep, pumpy and polished but nice tho
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Mar 7 Mai 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Est Le nabab | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Le linceul de Penelope | ★★★ Classique | |||||
The pump ruined my OS right before the anchor :-D didnt give it another go.
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Mar 7 Mai 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Est Le short dans le trou | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Piedra salvaje | 35m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Amazing dihedral loved it!
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Mar 7 Mai 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Est FFMeuh | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ L`Ecornifleur | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Nice warm up, not easy for 6a+...
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Mar 7 Mai 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Le Nombril | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Courage Fuyons — 2 essais | 35m | |||||
Super cool route! A few tricks needed to make it go smoothly
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7a | ★★★ La Rose Des Sables | 35m | |||||
One of the better 7as I've done
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Dim 5 Mai 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
La Baleine Fronton de mer | |||||||
7a | ★★ La fievre spiteuse L1 | ★★★ Super classique | |||||
Amazing Boulder on slopers at the very end. Super hard to read - ruined my OS 😅 super super nice
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6c+ | Un p'tit paradis para ti, Antoine | Dans la moyenne | |||||
Not convinced by the rock quality…
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Sam 4 Mai 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
La Baleine Fronton de mer | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Pirequetoutopuulos | ★★★ Classique | |||||
Reta dur !
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7b | ★★★ Commando fada | ★★★ Super classique | |||||
Omg what an endurance beast - so so so cool
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7b | ★★★ The dark side of the mums | 35m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Stellar line!!!! Not easy for the grade
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6c+ | ★★★ Carriere en exploitation | 17 | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Super super nice
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6b+ | ★★ Le pilier de la rumeur | 13 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Nice warm up
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Sam 4 Mai 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Est Le short dans le trou | |||||||
6c | Ne m’appelle plus jamais Darvador ! | ||||||
My arms felt pumped for like 3 hours after this. Sounds like my body is asking for a rest
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Sam 4 Mai 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Pepsicomane | |||||||
6b |
★★★ Pepsicomane
1
6b
2
5c+
3
6a
| ★ Bon | |||||
The final pitch was too wandering and compressed with other pitches next door to flow at all
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Sam 4 Mai 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Les Diamants | |||||||
7a ~7a+ | ★★★ Les Diamants Sont Éternels — 2 essais | 35m, 12 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
No quite one of the best 7as in the world, but so worth it. Exposed position, spaced bolts, long, some physical moves and a technical slab crux. Great and intimidating climb
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Sam 4 Mai 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Excalibur | |||||||
7a |
★★★ Le Vieil Homme est Amer P1
1
7a
| ★★★ Super classique | |||||
Amazing route! Techy crimps on the left of the arete, and buoux pockets on the right, so sustained and technical. So psyched to have onsighted it!!!
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Sam 4 Mai 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Fakir | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Desespoir — 2 essais | 30m | |||||
A foothold broke on me on my OS go at the crux! It would have been 50/50 if I sent too, so unfortunate
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Ven 3 Mai 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Sud En attendant Mozart | |||||||
7a+ | ★ En attendant Mozart | Dans la moyenne | |||||
One move wonder, actually quite nice line, but it all comes down to one / two moves…
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6c+ | ★★ Jean-Sébastien sur Chiures | ★★ Excellent | |||||
First pitch is super super super technical and harder than the second pitch in my opinion
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Ven 3 Mai 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Al Andalouz | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Pensees afghanes | ||||||
Repeat
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Ven 3 Mai 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
La Baleine Fronton de mer | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Du rire de baleine aux larmes de crocodile | 15 | |||||
Had done the start but OS the rest
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Mar 30 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Est Le short dans le trou | |||||||
7b | ★★ Un désir sans détour | ||||||
Warm up dog placing draws for tapelin
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Mar 30 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Est Le nabab | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Le linceul de Penelope — 3 essais | ||||||
Fell off above the last bolt on the onsight, and then again on the next shot. Glad I held it together with elbows flaring on the 3rd shot. Turns out when you trash yourself the day before because you weren't planning to climb, you feel trashed when you go climbing
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Mar 30 Avr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Excalibur | |||||||
6a+ | Surex | Pas la peine | |||||
Good climbing but on seriously chossy rock, be warned
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Mar 30 Avr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
No Man's Land | |||||||
7b | ★★★ No Man's Land | 33m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
What a cracker! Went down nicely once I had learnt the traverse and rests. 4th gp total, it was surprising how quick the pump build up on the first RP go
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Lun 29 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Nord | |||||||
7a |
★★★ Macadam cowboy P1
1
7a
| 29m | |||||
Hanging draws for Caitlin
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7c | La fuite en avant — 3 essais | ||||||
Good links today. Feels like a set of 4x4s. One sit on the last go
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7b+ | ★★ Vite fait, bien fait — 2 essais | ||||||
When I decided to actually crimp the crux hold it felt easy
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Sam 27 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Nord | |||||||
7a |
★★★ Macadam cowboy P1
1
7a
| 29m | |||||
My favourite 7a of face nord
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7b+ | ★★ Vite fait, bien fait — 3 essais | ||||||
Freakin nails
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Ven 26 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Est FFMeuh | |||||||
7c+ | ★★★ FFMeuh — 3 essais | 30m | |||||
Thought it would be in the bag after last session, then didn't even make it as far. Will try and come back a bit more fresh if it's not seepy after the rain
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Jeu 25 Avr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Le Nombril | |||||||
7a+ Difficile | ★★★ Courage Fuyons — 4 essais | 35m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
What a route! There's a bit of a trend of me coming back to a proj in the afternoon shade, doing really well but then having a slip, and sending it an hour later. 4th gp overall. Was much more technical than I initially expected, as there are limited feet. Once I used a bit less of the crack it went down.
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Jeu 25 Avr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
T.C.F. (Turbo Cibi Facho) | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Le Juif Architecte | ★★★ Classique | |||||
Great route! A good mix of crack and hidden holds in and around the crack. Gotta know how to climb both
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Jeu 25 Avr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Scorpion | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Kamikaze | 22m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Great climb too
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6c | ★★ Des Verts Peperes | 22m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Awesome, awesome climbing, and I climbed it awesomely. I kept waiting for the "heartbreaking reachy move", and then was at the chains!
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6c ~7a | La Fleche | Pas la peine | |||||
We couldn't for the life of us figure out a sequence right at the top. Be warned!
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6a+ | ★★ Carton Jaune | 25m, 14 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Hard getting over the Bulge then delightful. Buoux is amazing!
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6b+ Difficile | ★★★ La Montee aux Enfers | 25m, 14 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
This was a great route! Varied, hard to onsight and with so many bolts, but I was grateful for them!
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Jeu 25 Avr 2024 - La Combe Obscure | |||||||
6c+ ~7a | ★ La Martine | 35m | Pas la peine | ||||
An der Crux, leider schon etwas poliert. Ging früher besser.
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Mer 24 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Sud En attendant Mozart | |||||||
6c | ★★ Des titis et des grisettes | ||||||
Nearly fell off several sections
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7b | Les chevaux du vent — 2 essais | ||||||
7a+ in the guide, I agree more with this grade. Punchy, long moves on ok holds for a few bolts in a row. Once the climbing starts, it doesn't let up
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Mer 24 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Sud Les coffres en bambou | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Sale fee mal brossee — 2 essais | ||||||
Awesome route. Skipped the last bolt because I was too flamed. Worth it
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Mer 24 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Sud La violence éternelle | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ S.O.eScalade | 30m, 18 | |||||
Did this a week ago and logged the wrong route
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Mar 23 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Est FFMeuh | |||||||
7c+ | ★★★ FFMeuh — 3 essais | 30m | |||||
Punted off the top. Connies were primo today
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Lun 22 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
La Baleine La queue de la baleine | |||||||
7b+ Difficile | ★★ Pavelades - avec Philip | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Totally different climbing style and sooo pumpy! The guidebook says it‘s good to train your kneebar-skills — I clearly don‘t have any 😅
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Lun 22 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
La Baleine Fronton de mer | |||||||
7b+ ~7b | ★★★ Pierre indigne - avec Philip | 18 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Pumpy start with some good rests in between, slabby finish. No real crux, pure endurance. Loved it!
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7b+ Facile | ★★★ Pierre indigne - avec Moxi | 18 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Pumpy first half, then easier
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Dim 21 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Nord | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hold up | 30m, 15 | |||||
Repeat of the first half, onsight of the top half
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Sam 20 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Nord | |||||||
7c | La fuite en avant — 2 essais | ||||||
Very good, quite unrelenting. Could barely clip any of the draws
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Sam 20 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Praniania Le maitre du vent | |||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Princessa — 3 essais | ||||||
Climbed through the crux only to find some of the headwall moves were also cruxy. Good fight
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Ven 19 Avr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
La Croisette | |||||||
5b | ★ Surfin' Rock - avec Clément BL | 30m | ★ Bon | ||||
Excellente voie pour pratiquer les manips de GV.
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5b+ ~5b | Végan - avec Clément BL | ★ Bon | |||||
Voie très courte.
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6a+ | ★★ Prises Electriques | ★★★ Super classique | |||||
Superbe
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Ven 19 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
La Baleine Fronton de mer | |||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Fantasmagorique — 2 essais - avec Philip | 15 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
My fingers were so cold and numb on my first go today and I fell on the second crux. Took the opportunity to thoroughly check out the upper section from the last bolt to the anchor and found some better holds and better beta a bit more to the right. I really didn‘t want to fall again so close to the top 🙈
It really paid off as my second go was quite smooth and I wasn‘t pumped as much and could use all the small rests I had found ✌🏻
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Jeu 18 Avr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Colorado | |||||||
7a+ ~7a | ★★ Hors la loi | ★★★ Classique | |||||
7a in the topo.
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Jeu 18 Avr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Pepsicomane | |||||||
6b | ★★★ Pepsicomane | ★★★ Super classique | |||||
Majeur
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Mer 17 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Praniania Le maitre du vent | |||||||
7a | Eagle 0 2 | ||||||
Warm up before Princessa yesterday
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Mer 17 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Al Andalouz | |||||||
7b Facile | ★★★ Le Temple de la Meduse - avec Philip | ★★★ Classique | |||||
Really enjoyed this one! Happy that I still had enough juice in the tank at the end of the day ✌🏻
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7c/c+ | ★★ Fi, Flo, Floty - avec Philip | ★ Bon | |||||
Hmm…didn‘t enjoy this one much. 7a-ish climbing to a two-move crux and then again max 7a to the top. Philip found a better beta than me but I didn‘t feel like trying again.
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Mer 17 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
La Baleine Fronton de mer | |||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Fantasmagorique — 2 essais - avec Philip | 15 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
What a bummer, fell 2 meters below the anchor on my second go 🙈 but I was a bit too pumped and the last part to the anchor is not super obvious and the holds not the best. Anyway, I will return 😎
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Mer 17 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Al Andalouz | |||||||
7c/c+ Difficile | ★★ Fi, Flo, Floty - avec Moxi | ||||||
Technical and crimpy boulder in the middle
Evtl. nochmal mit mehr Haut |
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Mar 16 Avr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Fakir | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Cri de Guerre | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Stunning route. The traverse on sloppy greassy slopper isn't pleasant when it's warm. Except these 3m of unpleasant climbing, it's a must climb.
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6b | ★★★ Signé Farax | ★★★ Classique | |||||
A hold seems to have broken between the second and third quickdraw. The move is crazy hard, much harder than the grade and the rest of the route. You can skip it by pulling at the second draw. The rest of the route is stunning.
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Mar 16 Avr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Salinas | |||||||
6a | ★★ Tataouine | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Cute little route. Brand new, the holds bite.
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Mar 16 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Al Andalouz | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Arque pied tendre - avec Philip | 40m, 19 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
I love the occasional jug in between!
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Mar 16 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
La Baleine Fronton de mer | |||||||
6c+ ~6c | ★★★ Carriere en exploitation | 17 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
6c in our guidebook. A little brittle at the start, otherwise - great climbing!
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7b+ | ★★★ Pirequetoutopuulos | ★★★ Classique | |||||
Tufa-action! Getting over the bulge was a little tricky, good thing there was a huge jug right before this section
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7b | ★★★ The dark side of the mums | 35m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Nice!
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Mar 16 Avr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Al Andalouz | |||||||
7b+ Facile | ★★★ Arque pied tendre - avec Moxi | 40m, 19 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Nearly messed it up two times...
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Lun 15 Avr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Colorado | |||||||
7a ~6c+ | ★★★ A nos trente ans | ★★★ Classique | |||||
6c+ on the topo. For sure easire than 7a.
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Lun 15 Avr 2024 - Rochers du Groseau | |||||||
Papillon | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Salamadre — 2 essais - avec Moxi | 25m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Only to the first anchor
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