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Ascensions dans Südharz contenant Bêta

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Affichant les 43 ascensions total.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Qualité Grimpeur
Dim 16 Juil 2023 - Südharz
Barbiser Klippen Rechte Wand
5+ Wohlstandsspeck - avec Katta, MartinM Sportive 8m, 2 Excellent
Konrad
Fun short #crack route that can be laybacked or jammed. #barefoot

 
8 Abtaucher — 2 essais - avec Katta, MartinM Sportive 8m, 2
Konrad
Hm... Ideas, but no working sequence.

 
Dim 16 Juil 2023 - Südharz
Barbiser Klippen Straßentrum
7- Diebische Amsel — 2 essais - avec Katta, MartinM Sportive 8m, 2
Konrad
Cool top boulder, #hard as nails for the grade.

Messed up the onsight by going right and getting stuck in mono-land.

 
6+ Kante direkt - avec Katta, MartinM Sportive 8m, 1 Excellent
Konrad
Sweet arete. Technical and flowy, should be longer.

 
6- Froschkönig - avec Katta, MartinM Sportive 8m, 2 Bon
Konrad
Nice plaisir wall climbing, was a bit skeptical of the rock quality up top, but everything held.

 
7- Kobold - avec Katta, MartinM Sportive 8m, 2 Pas la peine
Konrad
#vegetated up top 😕

 
Dim 16 Juil 2023 - Südharz
Barbiser Klippen Gratsockel
5+ Dachsweg - avec Katta, MartinM Sportive 12m, 2 Excellent
Konrad
#barefoot #warmup beautiful pocket climbing

 
5+ Quellcode - avec Katta, MartinM Sportive 12m, 3 Bon
Konrad
 
Sam 15 Juil 2023 - Südharz
Burgruine Scharzfels Afrika Cuba
4+ Mrs. Smith - avec Katta, MartinM Sportive 12m, 2 Excellent
Konrad
 
7- Kellogs Cornflakes - avec Katta, MartinM Sportive 2 Pas la peine
Konrad
Felt contrived and not like an independent line, more a variation of it's neighbors

 
6 Zapfenstreich - avec Katta, MartinM Sportive 3 Excellent
Konrad
Cool 3d clim, #hard for the grade

 
Sam 15 Juil 2023 - Südharz
Burgruine Scharzfels Eckturm
9- Merlin - avec Katta, MartinM Sportive 3
Konrad
Cool pocket boulder, but I'm still missing 2moves around the first bolt. I could link from there to the ⚓.

 
Sam 15 Juil 2023 - Südharz
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei
5 Ritterriss - avec Katta, MartinM Trad Excellent
Konrad
 
5 Direkte Sache - avec Katta, MartinM Sportive 12m, 2 Bon
Konrad
 
Dim 2 Juil 2023 - Südharz
Burgruine Scharzfels Afrika Cuba
7+ Difficile Mr. Smith — 3 essais - avec Katta Sportive 2
Konrad
Technical start boulder on small holds.

#hard

 
8- Peyote - avec Katta Sportive 2 Bon
Konrad
More a (fun) athletic and technical boulder than a route, as everything beyond the first bolt is more like UIAA5

I was one move a way from getting the slot above the lip and therefore the onsight, but figuring out that move took me a couple more attempts. Beyond figuring out the beta, I also needed to get into the proper "fight mode" headspace for the crux moves.

 
Dim 2 Juil 2023 - Südharz
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei
7+ Balduin - avec Katta Sportive 3 Excellent
Konrad
Great athletic romp through the roof. Kneebars and 3d climbing.

Main gripe: should be longer

 
5+ Linke Sache - avec Katta Sportive 12m, 1 Bon
Konrad
 
6+ Zu und ab - avec Katta Sportive 12m, 3 Dans la moyenne
Konrad
Feels a bit contrived as the dihedral/chimney pulls you to the right constantly.

I mostly kept left, pumpy with good handholds but often insecure feet.

 
Dim 11 Sept 2022 - Südharz
Römerstein Übungsfelsen
4+ Rückwand - avec Katta Sportive 2
MartinM
BAREFOOT

 
Dim 11 Sept 2022 - Südharz
Burgruine Scharzfels Westpfeiler
6 Schnitzeljagd - avec Adrian Trad mixte 1 Excellent
Katta
Trad with one bolt half way through.

 
8- Fuß im Fettnapf - avec David Schröder Sportive 3
Konrad
The crux above the 3rd bolt went fine when isolated, but I couldn't get it to work from below, despite the excellent kneebar rest. Too tired/unfocused/high gravity day, i guess.

Next time!

 
Dim 11 Sept 2022 - Südharz
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei
8- Immer Ärger mit Bernie - avec Katta, MartinM, ad, David Schröder Sportive 3 Excellent
Konrad
Crux-y variant. A cool Boulder over the lip with a really small box. The solution: Hip flexibilty and a bit of oomph 🤘 and knowing which finger to tape.

 
7 Trainingseinheit - avec Katta, MartinM, ad, David Schröder Sportive 3 Classique
Konrad
Fairly homogeneous with a slight bump in difficulty to the anchor. Excellent sidepulls and underclings, tricky feet (used footjams up top 😊)

 
Sam 10 Sept 2022 - Südharz
Römerstein Übungsfelsen
8- Namenloser Spender Sportive 5
Konrad
Cool Boulder over the roof, hard for the grade. Would have given it a proper go, but 🌧️🌧️

 
7- Abschiedsvorstellung - avec Katta, MartinM Sportive 4 Excellent
Konrad
Good climb with a wingspan move over the roof.

#warmup

 
Ven 29 Avr 2022 - Südharz
Römerstein Körnerwand
6+ Lulatsch - avec Katta Sportive 8 Bon
Konrad
Pocket start followed by technical wall climbing and an overhanging finish up a zigzag crack system.

Fun route despite a bit of polish on the footholds, recommended!

#warmup

 
6- Pfeilervariante - avec Katta Sportive 5 Bon
Konrad
Up a large crack, then to the right up an overhung pillar. The huge offering of features can make it tricky to find the jugs, esp in the initial meters. Felt #hard for the grade, but that might have been my poor route reading.

 
6 Risseinstieg Nordwestwand - avec Katta Trad mixte 1 Bon
Konrad
Athletic start up an overhanging diagonal crack, followed by great traverse with excellent foot and hand holds.

Somewhat annoying to clean as the anchor is a single glue-in with a small eyelet, mb consider donating a maillon (I didn't have one on me)

#soft for the grade

 
7 7/7+ Gerade Nordwestwand - avec Katta Sportive 3 Pas la peine
Konrad
Boulder on small pockets, pinches and underclings to the 1st bolt, ok easy climbing (ca uiaa 5) from there to the anchor. Unfortunately, the first bolt is badly placed and imo pointless when redpointing, as you can only clip it once all the hard climbing is already done. I recommend either using a clipstick or crashpad. Pinkpointing with a long draw should also work

Started from the crack at the right as in the topo (not on the heavily chalked holds on the left). OS up to the last move to the lip from the sidepull+mono. Then I bailed and preclipped from "Risseinstieg Nordwestwand" - just going for it didn't feel worth it.

 
Ven 22 Avr 2022 - Südharz
Römerstein Körnerwand
6 Variante Sportive Classique
Tobias Pissulla
Wie steigt man hier offiziell aus, links durch die Verschneidung oder gerade über den Haken? Dann ist's aber keine 6 mehr. Oder gar ganz rechts herum? Fragen über Fragen. Bis zum letzten Haken aber saugeil!

 
6- Pfeilervariante Sportive 5 Super classique
Tobias Pissulla
Sehr schöne AV, besser als das Original.

 
Sam 23 Jan 2021 - Südharz
Burgruine Scharzfels Ruinenwand
6 6/6+ Annie, get your gun (Spätlese) - avec Konrad Sportive 4
Katta
Technical first half, then powerful traversy overhang to the top (which I'm still working on ^).

 
Sam 23 Jan 2021 - Südharz
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei
3+ Rechte Sache - avec Konrad Sportive 12m, 1 Bon
Katta
Super cute. Nice for beginners.

 
Sam 23 Jan 2021 - Südharz
Burgruine Scharzfels Ruinenwand
5 Stumpfe Kante - avec Konrad Sportive 4 Bon
Katta
Superb stone quality and nice moves. The last meters to the top took some guts.

 
5 Stumpfe Kante - avec Katta Sportive 4 Bon
Konrad
Kept left to the anchor.

#warmup

 
6 6/6+ Annie, get your gun (Spätlese) - avec Katta Sportive 4 Bon
Konrad
Fun and varied technical wall climbing with a steep finish

 
7 7-/7 La Bamba - avec Katta Sportive 3 Bon
Konrad
Climbed 1st go, but after climbing "spätlese". The unique section is good if a bit reachy, possibly harder for shorter climbers

 
Sam 23 Jan 2021 - Südharz
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei
7- Mann über Bord - avec Katta Sportive 3 Classique
Konrad
Spectacular, steep and juggy 3d-climbing. 😍

 
Dim 25 Oct. 2020 - Südharz
Burgruine Scharzfels Pilier Vert
5+ Genuss (Genuß) Sportive 1 Pourrie
Lukas
Hat mit dem Namen nicht viel zu tun...

 
Dim 25 Oct. 2020 - Südharz
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei
7 Hui-Buh Sportive 2 Excellent
Lukas
Coole Tour. Onsight doof verschenkt.

 
Dim 9 Sept 2018 - Südharz
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei
7- Mann über Bord Sportive 3 Excellent
Johannes
Photo session

 
7 Trainingseinheit Sportive 3 Classique
Johannes
Photo session

 

Affichant les 43 ascensions total.

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