Affichant les 43 ascensions total.
Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Dim 16 Juil 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Barbiser Klippen Rechte Wand | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Wohlstandsspeck - avec Katta, MartinM | 8m, 2 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fun short #crack route that can be laybacked or jammed. #barefoot
|
|||||||
8 | Abtaucher — 2 essais - avec Katta, MartinM | 8m, 2 | |||||
Hm... Ideas, but no working sequence.
|
|||||||
Dim 16 Juil 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Barbiser Klippen Straßentrum | |||||||
7- | Diebische Amsel — 2 essais - avec Katta, MartinM | 8m, 2 | |||||
Cool top boulder, #hard as nails for the grade.
Messed up the onsight by going right and getting stuck in mono-land. |
|||||||
6+ | ★★ Kante direkt - avec Katta, MartinM | 8m, 1 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Sweet arete. Technical and flowy, should be longer.
|
|||||||
6- | ★★ Froschkönig - avec Katta, MartinM | 8m, 2 | ★ Bon | ||||
Nice plaisir wall climbing, was a bit skeptical of the rock quality up top, but everything held.
|
|||||||
7- | Kobold - avec Katta, MartinM | 8m, 2 | Pas la peine | ||||
#vegetated up top 😕
|
|||||||
Dim 16 Juil 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Barbiser Klippen Gratsockel | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Dachsweg - avec Katta, MartinM | 12m, 2 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
5+ | ★ Quellcode - avec Katta, MartinM | 12m, 3 | ★ Bon | ||||
Sam 15 Juil 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Afrika Cuba | |||||||
4+ | ★★ Mrs. Smith - avec Katta, MartinM | 12m, 2 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Cool layback #someonehastogetthedraws #barefoot
|
|||||||
7- | Kellogs Cornflakes - avec Katta, MartinM | 2 | Pas la peine | ||||
Felt contrived and not like an independent line, more a variation of it's neighbors
|
|||||||
6 | ★★ Zapfenstreich - avec Katta, MartinM | 3 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Cool 3d clim, #hard for the grade
|
|||||||
Sam 15 Juil 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Eckturm | |||||||
9- | Merlin - avec Katta, MartinM | 3 | |||||
Cool pocket boulder, but I'm still missing 2moves around the first bolt. I could link from there to the ⚓.
|
|||||||
Sam 15 Juil 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
5 | ★ Ritterriss - avec Katta, MartinM | ★★ Excellent | |||||
5 | ★ Direkte Sache - avec Katta, MartinM | 12m, 2 | ★ Bon | ||||
Dim 2 Juil 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Afrika Cuba | |||||||
7+ Difficile | Mr. Smith — 3 essais - avec Katta | 2 | |||||
Technical start boulder on small holds.
|
|||||||
8- | ★ Peyote - avec Katta | 2 | ★ Bon | ||||
More a (fun) athletic and technical boulder than a route, as everything beyond the first bolt is more like UIAA5
I was one move a way from getting the slot above the lip and therefore the onsight, but figuring out that move took me a couple more attempts. Beyond figuring out the beta, I also needed to get into the proper "fight mode" headspace for the crux moves. |
|||||||
Dim 2 Juil 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Balduin - avec Katta | 3 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Great athletic romp through the roof. Kneebars and 3d climbing.
Main gripe: should be longer |
|||||||
5+ | ★ Linke Sache - avec Katta | 12m, 1 | ★ Bon | ||||
6+ | Zu und ab - avec Katta | 12m, 3 | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Feels a bit contrived as the dihedral/chimney pulls you to the right constantly.
I mostly kept left, pumpy with good handholds but often insecure feet. |
|||||||
Dim 11 Sept 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Römerstein Übungsfelsen | |||||||
4+ | ★ Rückwand - avec Katta | 2 | |||||
BAREFOOT
|
|||||||
Dim 11 Sept 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Westpfeiler | |||||||
6 | ★★ Schnitzeljagd - avec Adrian | 1 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Trad with one bolt half way through.
|
|||||||
8- | ★★ Fuß im Fettnapf - avec David Schröder | 3 | |||||
The crux above the 3rd bolt went fine when isolated, but I couldn't get it to work from below, despite the excellent kneebar rest. Too tired/unfocused/high gravity day, i guess.
Next time! |
|||||||
Dim 11 Sept 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
8- | ★★ Immer Ärger mit Bernie - avec Katta, MartinM, ad, David Schröder | 3 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Crux-y variant. A cool Boulder over the lip with a really small box. The solution: Hip flexibilty and a bit of oomph 🤘 and knowing which finger to tape.
|
|||||||
7 | ★★★ Trainingseinheit - avec Katta, MartinM, ad, David Schröder | 3 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Fairly homogeneous with a slight bump in difficulty to the anchor. Excellent sidepulls and underclings, tricky feet (used footjams up top 😊)
|
|||||||
Sam 10 Sept 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Römerstein Übungsfelsen | |||||||
8- | Namenloser Spender | 5 | |||||
Cool Boulder over the roof, hard for the grade. Would have given it a proper go, but 🌧️🌧️
|
|||||||
7- | ★★ Abschiedsvorstellung - avec Katta, MartinM | 4 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Good climb with a wingspan move over the roof.
|
|||||||
Ven 29 Avr 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Römerstein Körnerwand | |||||||
6+ | ★ Lulatsch - avec Katta | 8 | ★ Bon | ||||
Pocket start followed by technical wall climbing and an overhanging finish up a zigzag crack system.
Fun route despite a bit of polish on the footholds, recommended! |
|||||||
6- | ★★ Pfeilervariante - avec Katta | 5 | ★ Bon | ||||
Up a large crack, then to the right up an overhung pillar. The huge offering of features can make it tricky to find the jugs, esp in the initial meters. Felt #hard for the grade, but that might have been my poor route reading.
|
|||||||
6 | ★ Risseinstieg Nordwestwand - avec Katta | 1 | ★ Bon | ||||
Athletic start up an overhanging diagonal crack, followed by great traverse with excellent foot and hand holds.
Somewhat annoying to clean as the anchor is a single glue-in with a small eyelet, mb consider donating a maillon (I didn't have one on me) #soft for the grade |
|||||||
7 7/7+ | Gerade Nordwestwand - avec Katta | 3 | Pas la peine | ||||
Boulder on small pockets, pinches and underclings to the 1st bolt, ok easy climbing (ca uiaa 5) from there to the anchor. Unfortunately, the first bolt is badly placed and imo pointless when redpointing, as you can only clip it once all the hard climbing is already done. I recommend either using a clipstick or crashpad. Pinkpointing with a long draw should also work
Started from the crack at the right as in the topo (not on the heavily chalked holds on the left). OS up to the last move to the lip from the sidepull+mono. Then I bailed and preclipped from "Risseinstieg Nordwestwand" - just going for it didn't feel worth it. |
|||||||
Ven 22 Avr 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Römerstein Körnerwand | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Variante | ★★★ Classique | |||||
Wie steigt man hier offiziell aus, links durch die Verschneidung oder gerade über den Haken? Dann ist's aber keine 6 mehr. Oder gar ganz rechts herum? Fragen über Fragen. Bis zum letzten Haken aber saugeil!
|
|||||||
6- | ★★ Pfeilervariante | 5 | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Sehr schöne AV, besser als das Original.
|
|||||||
Sam 23 Jan 2021 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Ruinenwand | |||||||
6 6/6+ | ★★ Annie, get your gun (Spätlese) - avec Konrad | 4 | |||||
Technical first half, then powerful traversy overhang to the top (which I'm still working on ^).
|
|||||||
Sam 23 Jan 2021 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
3+ | ★★ Rechte Sache - avec Konrad | 12m, 1 | ★ Bon | ||||
Super cute. Nice for beginners.
|
|||||||
Sam 23 Jan 2021 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Ruinenwand | |||||||
5 | ★★ Stumpfe Kante - avec Konrad | 4 | ★ Bon | ||||
Superb stone quality and nice moves. The last meters to the top took some guts.
|
|||||||
5 | ★★ Stumpfe Kante - avec Katta | 4 | ★ Bon | ||||
Kept left to the anchor.
|
|||||||
6 6/6+ | ★★ Annie, get your gun (Spätlese) - avec Katta | 4 | ★ Bon | ||||
Fun and varied technical wall climbing with a steep finish
|
|||||||
7 7-/7 | ★ La Bamba - avec Katta | 3 | ★ Bon | ||||
Climbed 1st go, but after climbing "spätlese". The unique section is good if a bit reachy, possibly harder for shorter climbers
|
|||||||
Sam 23 Jan 2021 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Mann über Bord - avec Katta | 3 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Spectacular, steep and juggy 3d-climbing. 😍
|
|||||||
Dim 25 Oct. 2020 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Pilier Vert | |||||||
5+ | ★ Genuss (Genuß) | 1 | Pourrie | ||||
Hat mit dem Namen nicht viel zu tun...
|
|||||||
Dim 25 Oct. 2020 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
7 | ★★ Hui-Buh | 2 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Coole Tour. Onsight doof verschenkt.
|
|||||||
Dim 9 Sept 2018 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Mann über Bord | 3 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Photo session
|
|||||||
7 | ★★★ Trainingseinheit | 3 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Photo session
|
Affichant les 43 ascensions total.