Voies dans Irlande pour la cotation selectionnée

Climb the fallen block and follow the slopey breaks leading to a right trending crack high on the face. (excellent jug in slot to left just below summit)

Start 2m left of ‘The Parting Glass’ at a corner leading up to the square cut overhang. Climb the corner, crux, then traverse below overhang passing it on the right. Move up over some interesting flakes and make a long reach up via obvious undercut to more good flake holds. Follow the flakes back slightly leftwards to an exit at a wide crack.

Climb the arete immediately to the right of the ‘Defo Groovy’ chimney. Very steep and juggy.

4m to the right of ‘Nut Crack’ climb the easy ramp to gain a horizontal break by a long reach, gain the flake above to the top.

This route takes the first corner at the sea ward end of the crag. Abseil to a ledge as for 'Thrutch' to the left of the corner, belay on abseil rope. Delicately traverse rightwards from the end of the ledge to the base of the corner/groove. Assemble good gear in high cracks at base of groove then step up onto good ledge. From here climb the overhanging corner/groove to top.

Climb the crack two meters left of ‘Vedauwoo’. Awkward jamming leads to better holds near the top.

The true line that cuffs crap starts up. Instead of escaping right into the corner system with the tree stump, continue leftwards to climb the intimidating overhanging v-groove which is easier than it looks. Excellent protection. (Direct: Climb the white wall and overhang direct on positive side pulls. Bold start. E1 5b B. Hall, J. Hale)

Takes a fairly direct line up the Ghost Slab. Quite serious in its upper section, though unfortunately escapable at several points. Start as for The Ghost. Move up and diagonally left for 3m. Climb the slab on very small holds passing the diagonal overlap on The Ghost. Mantelshelf onto a small ledge and move up to a horizontal break. Continue directly up the slab above, just left of The Ghost, and don’t fall off.

Just to the right of the obvious open book corner is a leftward trending crack line that runs all the way to the top. This route take that line. Good nut placement at about half height that is a little tricky to place. Couple of difficult moves then follow. Top a bit crumbly on first ascent.

The obvious line to the right of Cuff's Crap. Climb on good holds to a small overhang, surmount this and move slightly right, then climb over a bulge on the corner to the top

At the right end of the crag climb the finger crack up the left side of the square cut recess. Stiff moves through the roof at top of the recess.

Start 0.5m (!) left of The Revolution Has Begun and go up to groove. Then onto good jug. Mantleshelf onto the crux move (crimp) and then work towards tree on horizontal cracks. Break onto arete. Poor gear on top section but good at bottom, mostly friends.

Thin crack with dubious peg at 3/4 height. Blind and fingery climbing. Gear is poor, don't fall.

2-3meters right of fingerlicker, a hard direct start leads to faint cracks leading to overhang, a big reach through to good holds to finish.

Start as for Graham Crackers. Climb the wall and then up over ledges to the base of the groove for After Midnight. Step left and climb a second, very shallow groove above a horizontal borehole (easier than it looks) to reach a horizontal crack splitting the face. Follow this for 10m to a fingery finish up the thin crack left of the variation finish to Graham Crackers. (Taken from guide book)

See guide book

See guide book