Voies dans Gruppo del Sassolungo

Via ferrata to the summit of Sasso Piatto/Plattkoffel. Made in traditional alpine style, only the harder parts are secured by ropes More info: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettersteig/oskar-schuster-klettersteig-langkofel/

Stände teilweise an Schlaghaken, teilweise an Schlingen, Zwischenstand in SL 5 und der letzten möglich, um Seilreibung zu vermeiden. Manche SL zwingend und schwer abzusichern. Ein Satz Keile, Cams 0,3 - 2 und Schlingen empfehlenswert. Wenige Sanduhren und zwei Zwischenhaken zur Orientierung vorhanden.

Abstieg: Nach dem letzten Standplatz dem Grat ca 40m bis zur prominenten Scharte folgen. Dort befindet sich auf der Nordostseite eine Abseilstelle. 40 m abseilen und dem Grasband Richtung Norden/Zahnkofelscharte für ca 300m folgen. Dort befindet sich die letzte Abseilstelle (50m) zur Zahnkofelscharte. Nun die Rinne hinab zum Einstieg

Via Normale alla cima più elevata delle Cinque Dita. Spesso II/III, soste cementate, alcuni cordoni in via.

Discesa: dalla cima scendere a sinistra in un canale (sud, II) e attraverso una lastra di rocce per ca. 30 m (alcuni ganci) fino al primo gancio fissato con cemento. Calarsi due volte per 25 m fino alla Forcella del Pollice e da qui proseguire sul SAT n° 104, 1.30 ore.

From far away, you can spot the start of route by finding: a) the circular black hole in the wall then b) up to the right, another black mark on the wall then c) down to the right, the starting boulder with the permanent snowfield to the right of the boulder.

At the base of the cliff, above the boulder is the start of the route (1 piton with fixed cord). If you start from the ground, P1 is approx. 55m. Otherwise, scramble to the top of the boulder (recommended so that your gear doesn't get wet in the afternoon snowmelt)

1. Climb the slab, wandering a little L and R to find gear and the bolts. Go up to the small ledge with the anchor (2 bolts + cord + quick link). 9 bolts.

2. Go up briefly on the slab, then move to the right. Soon afterwards, move to the left, following the crack all the way to a ledge where you find the belay. There is an abseil anchor 10m to right of the climbing anchor do not use this (2 bolts + cord + quick link). 4 bolts, 4 pitons.

3. Sharply diagonally to the left around the base of the small column, then up into the gully (initially crumbly), which goes up and slightly to the right. Some stemming an another bolt leads you to the belay, on top of a small pillar, vertically above the last anchor (1 bolt + 1 piton + cord + rings). 1 bolt.

4. Go up vertically from the belay, cross an overhang and continue to the next belay (2 bolts + rope + quick link). 3 bolts, 1 fixed sling.

5. Continue slightly diagonally to the right, aiming for a mini-cave with a yellowish overhang, under which find the anchor. (2 bolts + cord + quick link). 3 fixed slings.

6. Move 2m to the right, and go up the improbably easy overhang. Easier climbing leads to the next anchor (3 bolts + 1 hourglass + cord + quick link) 1 bolt, 1 piton, 2 fixed slings.

7. Go slightly to the right, around the final overhang, then continue vertically up to the anchor on top of the White Pillar (2 pitons + cord + abseil rings). 1 fixed sling.

Descent:

Abseil the route, using the anchors. (1h-1h30) Many of the 40m pitches are possible to abseil on a 70m rope with rope stretch, as the route zig-zags a lot. For pitch 1 & 2 which are very vertical, a 50m pull-cord or second rope is necessary.

For pitches 6 & 7 a single rope is recommended to avoid the rope getting stuck. Be very careful, there are lots of horns/features to trap your rope!

Long and with a good view.