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A journey to remember! The first pitch is the same as Drowning In The Shallow End, rising easily for 25m to the right-hand and slightly higher nettle tree. Climb 6m to distinct grey ledge. Move up slightly rightwards to bulging dark wall where there is excellent pro in a horizontal slot. Climb holds on right where a tricky move reaches easier ground. Move left to obvious crack and easily up to final overhang and bolt. 1m left of bolt there are holds, so grab the current and use these directly through overhang (crux) to finish.

Probably Lukenia's best. It makes its way up the left side of the left-hand of the two main overhangs, surmounts this then strings together four or five mind-inspiring moves across the wall above. You can look for difficulties in the first pitch but it is easier to simply take 'The Keep' as far as the first belay. A long pitch follows. Move rightwards to the obvious quartz-hole on 'The Keep', then right a few moves and up past a bolt to easier ground below the left-hand overhang. The remainder of the climb is the crux and includes pulling over the overhang past a bolt on the left, up a move, then traverse 5m rightwards across the steep wall above the overhang. Easily to belay.

The ultimate finger-tingler! Start 3m right of Bandana, Climb thin crack to obvious "pigeon-hole" at 4m. Move up bulge above on good holds, then two hard moves lead out rightwards across wall and up to easier ground.

A line consisting of beautiful moves until the usual Egyptian easy finish. Start up the first bolt of DIY/Ulf Carlsson Memorial Climb, and instead of going right, go straight up, to the small pockets above, up towards the larger/pocket/jug before moving to the crack on the left and exiting the hard climbing.

Gear is thin and thoughtful but there throughout the climb if you look for it. first ascent was headpointed.

Start to the left of the Ulf Carlsson Memorial Plaque, following a curved line of 3 bolts. Get established on small crimps at the start and traverse right with bad feet to the second bolt. Power straight up past the third bolt, then traverse delicately right across a blank face to get established on a pillar. From here join the top section of Pharaoh's Wall and keep an eye out for hornets!

Climb the unprotected face between Death of Disco and Sweet Fanny Adams for 5 meters on small edges, before getting to a good horizontal rail and pocket which can take gear. Powerful moves left and up across a flake to get established at a broken crack system, and then up the face on easy holds.

A hard mixed route - don't believe the old guide which calls this a "genuine sport climb"! Take some small nuts and cams as well as quickdraws for the three bolts. Start left of the root coming down from Eagle's Nest Crack and climb the crack in the front of the boulder past a bulge to the platform below Epitaph. Move right onto wall and climb direct past three bolts. At the third bolt step left (crux), then continue direct to top.

The obvious crack below and leading to the large block at the end of the traverse on Eagle’s Nest Crack. Aid from one peg on the traverse into the crack low down.

This climb is at the left end of the crag and starts 4m left of Journey Into Space. It is found by locating the prominent grey-coloured flake/jug some 6m up the wall. Easily up 3m to plant-covered ledge. Move left along this until directly below the previously mentioned flake/jug. (It is worth belaying on this plant ledge to protect leader on the first hard moves). Up with difficulty and pull up overhang to reach the prominent jug. Up this leftwards to horizontal crack. Climb up to a good hold and step rightwards across steep wall (crux). Delicate moves rightwards lead to a fairly dynamic move up and across to obvious hole on wall on right. Strenuous move straight up to easier ground and top. The climb is much harder than it appears from the ground. From the first moves off ledge it is unrelenting until the finishing hard move 15m up. Keep a #7 wire ready for the crux.

Where are you now Jet Morgan? (Journey Into Space is a BBC Radio science fiction programme written by BBC producer ...... by Tacconi. The 1957 annual included a short story called Jet Morgan and the Space Castaway, written by Chilton and illustrated by Cornwell). This is a gem of a climb, with great variety of moves and superb positions. At the left end of cliff there is an overhang with a diagonal break through it. The route is directly in front of the driver at the point where the road up to Lukenia meets the road which goes along the base of the cliffs. Start below overhang where there is a flake on the ground. Climb 6m to where a rising crack goes up leftwards through the overhang. Hand-traverse up crack, and pull up through lip of overhang onto steep wall. Delicate traverse rightwards (crux), along ledges on lip of overhang, until easier ground is reached 2m right of peg. Climb wall to top bearing slightly leftwards. Bolt pro after the hand traverse.

Worth the effort. The pro exists but the final 9m is guaranteed to make the boys shiver in their megas. Take a #0 RP along and save it for after the overhang. Start on left side of cliff beneath obvious flake/crack. Up flake, step left, up slightly then rnantle shelf to good ledge. Move right to orange wall and bolt. Up awkwardly leftwards to ledge below groove. Ignore this and step right to another ledge. The trick is to now reach the steep slab which lies above over the overhang. This is best done by delicately stepping up, then gingerly making a long step leftwards to a srnall sloping ledge on lip of overhang below a thin vertical crack. Climb this (crux) and continue carefully to top.

The much harder direct start to As Good as it Gets. Crimpy, cruxy moves straight up until you join up with the easier ground of the top half of As Good as it Gets.

Start below the blunt arete. Climb this and then surmount roof by an area of white rock.

The obvious square corner on the left of the face has now been climbed free. Not as good as it looks. Hard start up corner leads to very difficult bridging at 9m. A mantleshelf enables easier climbing to be reached 6m below top.

Start on obvious horizontal to the right of Dump Truck. Navigate right to a big move and an easy top out.

Sit-start on the far left of the boulder, get established on good hand-holds and traverse on these to top out on the small boulder on the right.

Far right of the boulder. Sit start at the bottom of the obvious rail, and move up and right using a combo of powerful moves and heel hook trickery. Mantle up and over onto the slab, and walk up to finish.

Far right of the boulder. Sit start with you right hand on the rail and left hand on an undercling jug. Powerful moves up to a crimp and then the overhanging rail, before topping out on the same finish as Laura.

Surprisingly fun, to the left of Nightcrawler. Sit-start on the lowest handholds; hard first couple of moves to get stood up, then easy up to the top.

Mental. Traverse left and up on good holds, just don't swing off and down the big drop underneath.

Sit-down start matched on really nice jug, moves left and up with a big move to a nice edge up at the lip. One of Lukenya's best!

Sit-down start on the same jug as Chicken Head, moves right and up. (Very tensiony for shorter climbers and probably a full grade harder due to the heinous intermediate side-pull crimp before the jug near the top.)

Highball. Stand start and go straight up the face. A really nice technical boulder problem. Avoid using boulder on the right, though it could possibly be a V0 variation if used.

Same start as Oversize Shorts with low left traverse and finishes up Carolyn's Baby. Really fun moves on the overhung traverse.

Crouch start on far right of prow, traverses just a few moves left and then up the face

Start on left most holds in the whale’s mouth and finish on the top out of oversized shorts.

SIt-start to the left of Satelitte Dish, with left hand on good crimp on low rail and right hand on a low gaston crimp. Hard first move to stand up and reach a diagonal crimp up and right. Easier to the top. Useful to have a friend hold branches out of the way.

Sit-down start with left hand on rail and right on low crimp, moves up the short problem using slopey compression and crimps. It's a nice lowball.

Stand-start on the lowest-usable crimps. Hard first move to a decent hold, straight up from there.

Nice warmup for the other two, with an interesting topout. Sit-start on the obvious hold on the right of the boulder, going to another good hold with quite a big move, then up again. Keep your nerve for the topout, the holds are there. Spotter should jump on top of the boulderer if they fall to avoid tumbling down the rock behind!

If you hate it-starts stay away. Sit-start on big holds low on the lip, and awkwardly and with difficult mantle up. Straight up from there.

Starts crouched. Straight up the face on good holds, just don't look down at the top to avoid fantaing your trousers.

Start on the slab on the left. Go up and right.

Start on small crimps in the mdidle of the face. Up and right to finish.

Nice. #juggy

Sit-down start on low jug and goes up left of arete on good crimps.

Sit-start low to the right of the arete, go up on crimps and big left-hand gaston staying right of arete to the top.

Sit-start at the furthest right and lower point of the big diagonal cracks. Work your way up this leftwards to get establish on good holds when the cracks end. From here either dyno to the top or use a poor intermediate crimp and bump up. Top out from there.

Same sit-start as for Touching cotton, the lowest holds on the right of big diagonal cracks. From here move up right on holds in cracks and mantle over the top.

Better than it looks. Stand-start in the middle of the overhang matched on okay holds and feet high. Get up to the big block and mantle above this to finish up the slab above.

Stack pads to start on the only jug you could possibly reach then climb left out of the roof on an incredible crack line. Really Fun and unique climb.

Short but fun problem. Start on lowest usable hold on the arete, one hardish move up to the big flakes, then work your way left along the arete and up to finish.

Start matched on the decent rail on the far right of the boulder. Couple powerful first moves up to the lip, then use holds a bit further right for a tricky mantle. Short but esthetic line.

On the left side of the boulder. Start on a good rail, then a big move to a decent hold just under the lip. From there find holds further in and mantle.

The firs ascent was done onsight, no crash pads, no shoes, no chalk, no warmup. A true spur of the moment ascent. Climb straight up from a sharp rail by way of one big move and a series of smaller holds lead to the topout.

Interesting problem with potential for varying jams and holds. Low sit start to establish, avoiding the boulder to left for whole problem, otherwise quality and difficulty is massively compromised.

Crouch start with both hands in the big crack, on the left. Go straight up from there, avoiding Weakness Protection Programme which is further right.

Very similar to Witness the Weakness, but start further right with hand in the big crack and follow the line of the vertical crack above to the top.

Go up the arete opposite Witness the Weakness. Start on jugs on the left for easier, lower on crimps on the right for harder.

To the right of Croissant. Sit-start matched on a low small crimp. Hard first move from here up to a decent flat hold, then up to better more incut holds directly above. Stay right of Croissant and its holds the whole way.

Right of Pain au Chocolat. Stand-start on two crimps and go straight up, using an intermediate crimp and getting feet up.

Right of Pain au Raisin and very similar. Stand-start on obvious holds, go straight up via a good horn and getting feet up.

Stand-start with hands matched on the big obvious flake. Move right and up the arete to mantle.

Awkward problem on the left side of the boulder. Stand-start with hands on slopers at shoulder level. Straight up a series of slopers.

Stand-start matched on the lowest good hold, directly underneath the separate rock on top of the boulder. One or two moves to set up then dyno to the top of the boulder under the rock. Use rock on top to top out.

Stand-start on good holds just left of the cave. Move up on jugs then slightly left to a diagonal rail then to better holds to finish.

Stand-start in the far left of the cave. Come out of this to a good crack then up and right to another good crack just above the lip of the cave. Up from here on decent holds.

To the right of Moran Therapy.Stand-start. Get established on a good left foot and slopey right foot, before popping up to a decent gaston - quite a unique move. Don't just jump up from the ground to the good holds higher up.

Just left of a small fig tree growing out of the rock. Get established from a stand-start on the best holds within reach from a decent foot next to the tree. Up on crimps to top out.

Up the right side of the boulder, starting right of the fig tree. Get established from a stand-start, then straight up.

Sit-start under the overhanging arete right of the very small fig tree starting to grow from the rock. Start with one hand next to the tree on a big hold (be gentle) and other on another jug to the right. Big move up to the lip, then easier climbing to finish up and left.

Harder than it looks and a bit awkward. sit-start matched on the obvious big block left of the arete, then up to another obvious ledge above, then big move to top.

Stand-start under where the overhang starts, work up the slab and exit just right of the overhang.

Same start as for Tempered Steel, but finish up and left through the initial overhand, aiming for big chickenheads. Pretty high.

Crouch start in the overhang matched in a good slot in the crack, climb out right and up the right side of the face. Once you pass the two big holes in the face (great jugs) you are commited. This is a pretty scary but all around amazing climb. Avoid using the right arete until at the top, although this can be a nice bailout lower down. Getting off the boulder can be tricky!

This problem ascends the arete on left hand side of the boulder. Start stood on the ramp below the arete with hands matched on the slanting rail. Once established, the ascent along the arete is straight forward with good feet and decent hand holds.

Crouch start matched in low crack on the side of the boulder you arrive at from the picnic tree path, follow crack out of roof and then climb arete left to finish left over the exposed overhang.

Same start as Joker but goes right out of roof and up the short face to the top.

Start on the same holds as For Every King a Crown, but then go left and up with big side-pulls and cool body positions.

Full traverse of the boulder. Sit-start on the start jug of Ticked off on the left and work your way right and to the top-out of Tickle me Elmo. Avoid all holds at the top of the boulder before the top-out on the far right.

Stand start on lowest possible holds facing each other, both have 90 degree corners and the left hand is small and sharp. Find your way up and across the ridge line to the top. Top out as far left as you can without getting stuck in the thorns.

Sit-start with both hands as low as possible - left in a small crack and right on the ledge which is also used for the right foot. Go straight up the face, with some deceptively tricky and balancey moves.

Line up the arete. Start matched on the lowest good holds, move up to the next set of good holds and jump for the top!

An instant classic heading diagonally left up the clean face to final sloppery sequence at the top. Start matched at the break in the horizontal crack rail.

Sit-start matched in the low crack on the left of the boulder, traverse all the way across following the gently rising crack, finishing on the far right where a small vertical crack splits the top.

Start from the Sarcophagus chalk mark, and move almost directly up. It gets easier, but a lot headier near the top. You can relax once you've finished! Could be considered E3 5c, but there's no gear worth speaking of. Come down off the tree to the right.

Sit-start on the left of the boulder, with hands matched in a low decent diagonal crack. Couple of powerful moves up a jug above and top out.

Sit-start on the right of the boulder, with hands matched in the good low horizontal crack. Powerful moves to reach the arete and top out.

#crimpy #juggy

To the right of Crème Brûlée. Sit-start on lowest holds. First move is hardest, straight up to the finishing jugs. Short but sweet.

Highball. Up the diagonal crack splitting the boulder. Stand-start at the base of the crack, then move up it, breaking out left onto jugs towards the top.

Sit-start on the far left of the boulder where the shallow crack ends. Start with hands in the crack - hard first couple of moves to get stood up, straight up from there. Climb always stays left of holds of 21 seconds.

Sit-start in the concave section of the boulder, with right hand on a good incut side-pull and left hand on the left arete. Work your up out and up the boulder, avoiding the rock to the right of the crack once out of the cave.

Sit-start with right hand on the undercling next to the corner and left hand out compressing on the arete at about the same height (same start as Marco). Instead of going left as for Marco, go right through some fun moves onto the prow, finishing up this.

Stand-start on the arete and the hollow flake, established off the slanting rock below. Straight up the arete from there - good to have a few pads and a spotter as the landing is not great.

Nice. Don't use the boulders on right and on left. #bad_dropzone #juggy

Stand-start with left hand just around the arete and right hand on the arete. Pull a couple spicy moves and then your top out of choice.

Sit-start on the arete to the left of the crack, with right hand on the arete and left low on the face. Compress up the arete to good holds at the top, maybe with a sneaky toe-hook?

Pumpy traverse on the juggy handholds going above the cave, with a slightly tricky finish.

Up the left-hand arete, bailing left before the overhanging top.

To the right of Moja Maker, up the face. Stand-stat with hands matched in a good diagonal crack but with poor feet. Find your way up the face on more decent holds and more poor feet before reaching jugs for both.

Highball up the face on the lower boulder below Go-Go Gadget Arms, etc., on the side facing Mombasa Road, in between two fig trees. Stand-start on the holds you can reach. Work through some deceptively tricky moves to reach better holds above and top out on jugs, making sure each one is solid before pulling.

Highball. Start as for Warm-high-uup, but branch out right onto slightly harder ground after the first few moves, via a crimp and slanting hold in the black section of rock.

Stand-start on two small crimps a few metres to the right of Warm high up. Work your way up on small but decent crimps and feet to join the middle holds on I'm warm, can I come down now, and finish as for that climb.

Just left of Sit-Start Pull Cross. Sit-start matched on a small rounded crimp (right and up from a more crumbly hold), with feet low. Slightly powerful first move up and right to a good sloping hold, then straight up through interesting moves.

Not the most inspiring name but a fun boulder. Good to have a spotter as the landing is a bit slanted. On the first part of the perched boulder you approach from the left-side scramble up to the top. Sit-start matched on a blocky hold, then sort out feet to reach a cool tufa-like hold out left. Straight up from there.

On the perched bnoulder itself. Get in the cave and dig. Stand-start matched on the good blocky hold on the outside of the cave, facing Mombasa Road. From there chimney up to holds which enable you to come out of the cave and onto jugs on the face.

Stand-start just to the right of a small tree. Go up and slightly right to a topout on good holds.

Sit-start to the left o the crack, on crimps. Get up to better holds in the crack and up this to a good topout.

Sit-down start to the right of Straight Up on the little jug past the arrete. Go left round the arete and up the crack.

A bit of an eliminate but very nice moves. Sit-start on a low rail at the base of the arete on the left of the boulder. Hard first move up to a right crimp, before crossing going up and left and then crossing to a good hold above that. Easier to finish. Stay on the arete and avoid the holds to the right of the diagonal crack, on Stripe.