Ascensions dans Britten Crag par Alexei Drummond contenant sport-cpr ou ascent-date

Fun climb. Got great beta from Richard.

Warm up. Thought this was the 19 to the left, but felt harder and guide revealed the mistake.

Better than expected. Great movement on head wall.

I had to onsight it because I was too scared to fall

Similarly enjoyable to the routes on either side. Anchor chains rusty!

Really nice route. Apparently my choice of finish after the last bolt was a body-width left of the sanctioned route because I took a left hand hold in my right hand My theory is that the true line is always whatever the visitor says, not the local. Since the visitor is the one looking at the route with fresh unbiased eyes!

Awesome! Highest onsight. Felt every bit the grade with a savage start on very small crimps up to the second bolt. Then there is a nice no hands rest after clipping the 3rd bolt. I really didn't want to do the bottom part again so went into full take-no-prisoners mode for the steep section and powered over the top of the 5th bolt where there is another rest and dawdle to the anchors. Really nice climb.

Repeat. Full red point. Put up the gear for Alex and managed to do this one clean again Feels so good to have the top moves really dialled in. I still managed to slightly botch the boulder sequence and I got a little pumped at the end, but nice to repeat it. Makes it feel real.

Red point! Second go of the second trip. Sixth go overall. I had a long rest after putting in the draws during the check out, had some food and water and thought about the new beta I had learnt. This time I was only trying to get a high point (i.e. clip the fourth bolt cleanly) so I hadn't set up the camera. But everything came together beautifully and it went down really smooth and clean! So stoked!

Nice route

Went easily after I sat in the sun and warmed up my fingers. Really nice route!

Cruisy if you watch somebody on it first

First time I managed to clip the third bolt from the crimp rail. Not too keen on a climb where the hardest move is clipping a low bolt

Managed to clip the third bolt from the glued in jug, but won’t do it that way again as my foot was perilously close to slipping as I clipped.

Warm up.

Warm up.

Warm up

Easy #2ndgo once I knew where to go for the slopey top-out.

Warm up

Red point! 3rd attempt. Climbed bottom section much more efficiently. Felt easy. Yes!

Red point! Second go of second day. Annoying it took five goes. Crux is short and it felt possible first time. Glad I got this crimpy little number down though. My fingers are shredded.

Nice but quite soft. I think it is more like 19 as stated in Rock Deluxe South. I didn’t clip the last bolt because it was in an awkward position and the anchor was just beyond.

Repeat. Warm up.

Getting familiar with the rock.

Awesome route. Fingers were frozen so very happy with the flash.

Not really feeling it today.

Getting the gear back.

Putting the gear up.

Taking the gear down. But at least I worked out how to get to the clipping hold for third bolt.

Warm down. Soft.

Red point. Easy after I had remembered the sequence. Even with cold fingers. 2nd attempt of the day, third overall.

Putting up the gear for Alex. Took a rest after clipping 4th bolt.

Warm down after fighting to clean off Mt Pleasant Butcher

High point clean. Climbed to below fourth draw clean. Took a rest then clipped 4th. Took a rest. Then up to 5th and anchors. Did all the moves on lead. Happy with that for my fourth attempt.

Warm up. Couldn't find the fifth bolt so it felt a bit run out, but was a nice warm up. (There was a fifth bolt but it look too far right to be in line with the anchors.)

Fingers way to cold to do this first go today.

Warm up

Warm up. Very run-out but easy at the top. Gets its grade from the first section.

Warm up #2.

Climbed as sport! Warm down.

Warm up.

Actually clipped the fourth draw this time, but got desperate and grabbed the 5th bolt after placing it over the ledge. I see why some recommend skipping that clip. Not quite a hangdog but definitely an improvement on the first go.

Working go. Worked my way up to the anchors bolt to bolt, grabbing a couple of quickdraws in the process. Quite a muscular climb, but I will give it another go to see if it feels any easier.

Cooling down.

Warm up

Very bouldery at the bottom and the beta I had for the flash attempt didn’t suit me, and didn't make it to second bolt. Tried from the ground again on the same tie in with more front on beta but didn't feel strong enough in my fingers.