Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Falaise | Qualité | Grimpeur | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.12a |
★★ Lexamen de rattrapage
1
5.8
109m
2
5.10d
3
5.12a
| 110m | Portneuf | ★★ Excellent | Sam 28 Août 2021 | ||||
Thought I was on something else so I mostly climbed off route. Went around to the left on P1 (5.8). Climbed most of P2 but traversed over to the left before the final moves lowering the grade slightly. Worked on the crux sequence of P3 (BEAUTIFUL!). Aid climbed 10-12m after the crux and freed the rest. Rappelled from the anchor of P3
|
|||||||||
5.12a |
★★★ Mexican Guarantee (Mexican Guarantee P1)
- avec
Luisa Ríos
1
5.12a
| 40m | El Potrero Chico | Sam 16 Nov. 2019 | |||||
Solo el primer largo.
|
|||||||||
5.13b |
★★★ Mexican Guarantee
- avec
Alberto Sanchez
| 40m | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Classique | Lun 4 Jan 2021 | ||||
another afternoon & night-session at "Fin de Semana", fought with everything I had to onsight the first 12a pitch, really nice diagonal & pumpy crack. At the ledge I got motivated by the nice tufa starting from there and decided to try the moves of the 13b a bit, surprisingly all sequences worked out really fast and I'm sure that I can do it, now very psyched to come back to Potrero as soon as possible.
|
|||||||||
5.10d |
★★★ The Inquisition (The Inquisition P1)
- avec
Ethan
1
5.10d
| Lime Kiln Canyon | ★★ Excellent | Mer 21 Nov. 2018 | |||||
Really fun!
|
|||||||||
5.12d |
★★★ Moonlight Buttress
- avec
Gwen, Liz Chong
1
2
3
4
5
5.12b
6
5.12d
One fall
7
Here the wheels fell off and I switched into support mode.
8
9
10
| Zion National Park | ★★★ Super classique | Lun 7 Nov. 2022 | |||||
I might write something longer and more pretentious about this at some point. Gwen onsighted the route except for the jump off the rocker block which took her a go or two.
|
|||||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Land of the Free - avec Maya Rudloff | 340m, 15 | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 4 Mars 2020 | ||||
Amazing! Awesome awesome awesome climbing on quality rock on an epic wall, bailed after pitch 6. the grading felt pretty stout, but that might be due to the runout bolting
You’ll need a solid mental game or might just as well take a set of cams, there’s plenty of good placements.
Very recommendable!
|
|||||||||
5.12b |
★★★ Wildest Dreams
- avec
Brittany
1
5.10d
grimpé en tête par
Will Vidler
Technically I soft decked on the wet slab at the very start but turns out you can walk around it so that’s what I did.
3
5.12b
grimpé en tête par
Brittany
4
5.10d
grimpé en tête par
Brittany
| Index Town Walls | ★★★ Super classique | Ven 29 Sept 2023 | |||||
Exceptional! Pitch two really is one of the best. And that final 5.10 pitch, oh boy.
|
|||||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Yankee Clipper | 460m, 12 | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Classique | Mar 26 Nov. 2019 | ||||
Most pitches are very nice but not incredible. All of the 5.10b cruxes are one to two moves. The 5.12a crux is three bolts of super technical sharp crimps. Hard to onsight. Pitch 14 is worth doing even if you're not doing pitch 15.
Simulclimbed all but the last pitch. Got up in 3h (2h30 to the top of P14) and down in 1h. Double 60m. |
|||||||||
5.8 |
Time Loves a Hero (Time Loves a Hero P1)
- avec
Cinthya Reyes
| El Potrero Chico | Dim 13 Fév 2022 | ||||||
Scary but good.
Da miedo ese primer largo pero esta chido. |
|||||||||
5.12b ~5.12b |
★ Face the Music
- avec
pit
1
5.9
2
5.11a
Suui
3
5.12b
grimpé en tête par
pit
| 120m, 11 | El Potrero Chico | ★ Bon | Ven 30 Déc 2022 | ||||
El tercer largo esta sumamente duro, 12b facil.
|
|||||||||
5.10b |
★★★ Reinas y Reyes
- avec
Gerardo Leal Leal
6
30
grimpé en tête par
Gerardo Leal Leal
| 160m, 16 | La Huasteca | ★★★ Classique | Sam 1 Fév 2020 | ||||
Ascenso por canaleta de parte trasera saliendo de la Cueva de la Virgen. Iniciamos por 2 largos 5.6 y posteriormente se hace una 4ta clase siguiendo el cable de acero que está en la R.
|
|||||||||
5.11c |
★★★ Reinas y Reyes
1
2
5.11c
3
5.10c
4
5.9
5
6
5.8
7
5.8
8
5.8
9
5.8
10
5.9
11
5.10b
| 16 | La Huasteca | ★★★ Super classique | Jeu 11 Nov. 2021 | ||||
Por canaleta
|
|||||||||
5.10b |
★★★ Reinas y Reyes
- avec
Victor Torres Morales
1
5.7
60m
2
5.8
3
5.8
4
5.8
5
5.8
6
5.9
7
5.10b
| 60m, 16 | La Huasteca | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 30 Déc 2021 | ||||
Ruta vía canaleta de acceso que se encuentra atrás de la cueva de la virgen (5.7 - 60m). La canaleta está muy poco protegida
|
|||||||||
5.11c |
★★ El Gran Maestro
- avec
Roberto Cebrian
| 190m | La Huasteca | ★★★ Classique | Ven 15 Juil 2022 | ||||
No fue de mis mejores dias ajajja
|
|||||||||
5.11c |
★★ El Gran Maestro
- avec
Boby Drum
1
5.10a
35m
2
5.11c
30m
3
5.10b
30m
4
5.9
35m
5
5.10d
30m
6
5.9
30m
| 190m | La Huasteca | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 16 Juil 2022 | ||||
Divertido el largo del diedro (10+)
|
|||||||||
5.11b |
★★ Evil Shenanigans
- avec
Miguel Gonzalez
1
5.8
240ft
| 73m, 11 | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Excellent | Dim 27 Sept 2020 | ||||
Muy buena, un pasito de equilibrio.
|
|||||||||
5.11a |
★★★ The Grand Wall
3
5.10b
5
5.11a
7
5.10b
| 300m | Squamish | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 22 Juil 2020 | ||||
Apron Strings into Grandwall, into bellygood ledge. Took 3 falls on Perry's lieback and a rest on the last hard pitch.
|
|||||||||
5.10c |
★★ Condor
1
5.10c
2
5.10c
| 24 | La Huasteca | Lun 4 Mars 2019 | |||||
Back hurting today after fall at tec wall on thursday. great day though. climbing one more diez something but couldnt find it on here. love that hausteca.
|
|||||||||
5.10c |
★★ Condor
1
5.10c
25m
2
5.10c
| 25m, 24 | La Huasteca | ★ Bon | Dim 8 Mai 2022 | ||||
Todo parece estar suelto, pero no se safa nada. Escalada fuerza fina.
|
|||||||||
5.10d |
★★★ Space Boyz
- avec
Jess
1
5.8
1000ft
2
5.9
3
5.9
4
5.9
5
5.10
6
5.10d
7
5.10
8
5.9
9
5.10
10
5.9
11
5.9
| 300m | El Potrero Chico | Dim 3 Mars 2019 | |||||
Started pitch 1 at 8:45 got back to the ground at 17:30. Linked a few of them but didn't rush
|
|||||||||
5.10d |
★★★ Space Boyz
4
5.9
5
5.10b
| 300m | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Classique | Lun 18 Nov. 2019 | ||||
Started late (3h30) after getting down from TNT wall. Figured we'd just get as far as we could. Linked 1-2-3 (a little bit of simul at the end) 4-5, 6. Stopped at the top of pitch 6.
|
|||||||||
5.10d |
★ Mix Meister
1
5.9
28m
4
5.10a
60m
8
5.10a
37m
10
5.10b
45m
13
5.10a
45m
15
5.10a
45m
18
5.10c
60m
21
5.10a
20m
| 720m, 99 | Goat Mountain | Dans la moyenne | Mar 22 Juin 2021 | ||||
A rockies adventure. A large route with an alpine feel for sure. Pitch fields are logged below as we linked them (as recommended by Andy's original topo description). I didn't feel the climbing was that sustained with the crux sections being quite short. The rock quality is mostly poor with some absolutely terrible sections requiring thoughtful climbing and gear placement. Both 10d cruxes are on average rock however the protection is good (micro cams for the first 10d section and bolts for the second). I ripped a shoe-box sized piece of rock off on pitch 12 after climbing a 5.9 crack filled with so much dirt and vegetation I only got a single piece of gear in the only section that wasn't filled with crap which thankfully held solid (#3 camalot) otherwise it would have been the ride of a lifetime. Apart from that small incident I managed to onsight the route which I was happy with. We decided to walk off the ridge which took about 2hrs to return to the car making for a total of 13hrs car to car. All in all a fun day out however I wouldn't recommend this route. One and done for me.
|
|||||||||
5.10d |
★★★ Space Boyz
- avec
Grant Hodges
1
5.8
2
5.9
3
5.9
4
5.9
5
5.10
6
5.10d
7
5.10
| 300m | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Super classique | Jeu 23 Déc 2021 | ||||
Bueenaa. inconclusa, demasiado para una principiante en multi-largos Hahaha ..pero que gran aventura!!
|
|||||||||
5.10d |
★★★ Sciatica
- avec
Kyle Judge, Emma Sykes
3
5.10d
21
grimpé en tête par
Kyle Judge
4
5.10d
23
5
5.10b
20
6
5.10d
14
| 130m | Canmore | ★★ Excellent | Jeu 26 Mai 2022 | ||||
First 2 pitches are cruisy. Crux move over the bulge is spicey, especially when you skip the judge rails. Rapped down at pitch 3 due to weather and time
|
|||||||||
5.10d |
★★★ Cardiac Arete
- avec
D_heritage
| 110m, 12 | Valley of the Ten Peaks | ★★★ Super classique | Jeu 22 Sept 2022 | ||||
Great route. Lots of variety
|
|||||||||
5.9 |
★★★ The Squamish Buttress (The Squamish Buttress Linkup the butt light)
7
5.6
linkup the butt light
| 210m | Squamish | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 5 Août 2020 | ||||
Linked 'Banana Peel' into 'Bommstick Crack' into 'Squamish Buttress' into 'The Butt Light'.
6h up, 1h30 down. Approach shoes all the way. Linked 1+2, 3+4, then did a short scramble pitch to base of butt light (5.9). From there, I ran a long pitch to a tree just below the 5.8 chimney. |
|||||||||
5.7 |
★ Bazookaed in Monterrey (Bazookaed in Monterrey P1)
1
5.7
| El Potrero Chico | ★ Bon | Lun 4 Jan 2021 | |||||
Solo primer pitch
|
|||||||||
5.10a |
★★ El Arco
- avec
Roberto Cebrian
| 94m | La Huasteca | Jeu 4 Fév 2021 | |||||
primer multi con el bobby. Se sintió más fácil que 10c el tercer pitch.
|
|||||||||
5.10c |
★★ El Arco
- avec
Fer
1
5.10a
94m
2
5.10a
3
5.10b
4
5.10c
| 94m | La Huasteca | Lun 19 Avr 2021 | |||||
Muy bonito y divertido multilargo.
|
|||||||||
5.10c |
★★★ L'Odyssée
1
5.4
355m
2
5.4
3
5.7
5
5.8
6
5.10
7
5.9
9
5.7
| 360m | Portneuf | ★★★ Classique | Lun 12 Juil 2021 | ||||
Great climb with Dom and Mat. Took 6h round trip. We climbed a few variants by accident.
P1 we climbed up another slab on the right and traversed back over to the anchor. P2 we climbed past the intended anchor into the left variant of P3 P3 we climbed up the slab to downclimb traverse the slab back to the anchor P4 left variant, past the anchor, gear belay in the wider section P5 short pitch to the anchor below the bolted slab variant of P6 P6 horrible slab of doom (took a fall while seconding) P7-8-9 were on track |
|||||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Bullethead East | 150m | Squamish | Ven 1 Juil 2022 | |||||
backed off due to a party ahead making very slow progress on the P2 roof.
|
|||||||||
5.10a |
★★★ Blazing Saddles (Blazing Saddles P1)
- avec
managed to completely miss the upper belay on
| 25m | Squamish | Mar 21 Août 2018 | |||||
Accidently linked the p2 5.8 of boardline and strayed right at the ledge into blazing saddles p2, getting another 5.10a pitch ticked off. Was not a good idea, luckly it was easy enough to rap off a tree back the ledge, Jeff linked the final few meters of the 5.8 above the pitch with the next two pitches - making for an ultrapitch of arete, bolted and bottomless squeeze chimney peaking into desperate slab with hectic rope drag.
|
|||||||||
5.10b |
★★ Yogi Unchained
- avec
Jesus Martínez
| 11 | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Excellent | Dim 3 Fév 2019 | ||||
Muy divertida y fácil casi toda la ruta, la chimenea está muy angosta y apenas cabes, algo incómoda pero fácil, cuidado con las piedras flojas, encontrarás muchos bloques que están por caer, de ser posible lleva un tapete para evitar que la cuerda raspe al bajar, precaución al rapelear, la cuerda raspa mucho; el último pitch es el mejor con solo un paso de 10B, en la guía lo marcaron como 10c pero personalmente lo considero 10b.
|
|||||||||
5.11b |
★★★ Estrellita
- avec
ABeau
5
grimpé en tête par
Lorraine
| 370m, 12 | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Excellent | Mer 20 Fév 2019 | ||||
Started in the dark at 05:30am. Had trouble finding the start as it was dark. Those plaques can be hard to see. My favorites were pitch 10 and 11. Got back to the ground at 11am. Great view at the top!
It's a bit dodgy linking the two harder variations. It's an unprotected traverse. I wouldn't recommend it. Just do one or the other.
|
|||||||||
5.7 |
★★★ Angel's Crest (Angel's Crest P1)
| 600m, 7 | Squamish | ★★★ Classique | Ven 31 Juil 2020 | ||||
Climbed the tree start to get to angel crack to free an old cam. Rappelled back down after.
|
|||||||||
5.9 |
★★ Bubba Loui (Bubba Loui P1)
| 49m, 8 | El Potrero Chico | ★ Bon | Sam 26 Déc 2020 | ||||
Buena ruta para empezarle a puntear
|
|||||||||
5.10b |
★★ Read Between the Lines
- avec
Bridget M, D-Lit
1
5.7
40m
grimpé en tête par
D-Lit
4
5.7
25m
grimpé en tête par
D-Lit
5
5.10b
30m
grimpé en tête par
Bridget M
| 150m | Squamish | ★★ Excellent | Dim 8 Août 2021 | ||||
Good climbing overall, the layback on pitch 4 was the standout pitch
|
|||||||||
5.10b |
★★★ The Goldilocks Zone
| 450m | Squamish | Dim 7 Août 2022 | |||||
fantastic route in a stellar setting! i got off route on P11 and while trying to reverse my moves had a crystal break resulting in a fall.
|
|||||||||
5.10b |
★★ Dope Ninja
1
5.7
600ft
2
5.10b
3
5.10b
4
5.8
5
5.8
6
5.9
| 180m | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Excellent | Mer 28 Sept 2022 | ||||
Muy buen multi, mucha friccion en varias rutas. Algunas piedras sueltas o flojas a lo largo de los largos. Al final tienes de 2, o subir al monoito mas alto y bajas por la reunion de snot girlz, hacia pancho villa, que tendrias que bajar con un poco de travesia. o bajas un poco a la cumbre de pancho villa para bajar por la reunion de pancho villa, hay una reunion media que confunde mas llega al mismo lugar. (No recomiendo unir largos, ya que crea mucha friccion.)
Detalle de los largos:
1er; corto 5.7
2do; largo 10.b, de crux.
3ro; 10.b al principio
4to; 5.8 travesia hacia la izquierda
5to; 5.8 erecto.
6to; 5.8 por unos pasitos. Sales al monolito. Donde nosotros bajamos hacia la izquierda a Pancho villa.
|
|||||||||
5.10a |
★★★ Triassic Sands
- avec
Hanna Kallweit
| 100m, 2 | Red Rock | ★★★ Classique | Mar 25 Oct. 2022 | ||||
Great structures. Beginners crack climbing. Rappelled after P3 instead of going all the way to the top and walk off.
|
|||||||||
5.10b |
★★★ Estrellita
- avec
Juan Carlos Velazquez de Leon
5
| 370m, 12 | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 16 Oct. 2022 | ||||
Nuestro primer multilargo! Una increíble experiencia
Videíto de la ruta: https://youtu.be/hsjx6IUu7io |
|||||||||
5.10c |
★★ The Super Slacker Highway
- avec
Cole
1
5.10b
2
5.9
3
5.10a
4
5.10a
5
5.10a
6
5.10b
7
5.10c
8
5.9
| 180m, 16 | Yosemite National Park | ★★★ Classique | Lun 2 Oct. 2023 | ||||
mega fun adventure, worth the crowds. tests your ability to climb everything: splitters, boulder sequences, steep jug haul, chimney (p5, p8), committing to balancy mantle above a first bolt/ledge (p4). pitch breakdown was arbitrary but worked out well: I somehow got the bouldery pitches (p3, p7) and not the reachy ones (p1, p6)
|
|||||||||
5.10a |
★★★ El Filo Noroccidental
- avec
Wade
2
grimpé en tête par
Wade
3
grimpé en tête par
Emma Ayling
4
grimpé en tête par
Wade
5
grimpé en tête par
Emma Ayling
6
grimpé en tête par
Emma Ayling
7
5.10a
grimpé en tête par
Wade
| 300m, 14 | Peña de Bernal | ★★ Excellent | Ven 22 Mars 2019 | ||||
Super easy climbing. Lots of bolts with nice new glue ins on the first 3 pitches then it was 'alpine style' for the rest 4 bolts for 70m of easy but exposed ridge climbing. Super fun.
|
|||||||||
5.10a |
★★★ Will the Wolf Survive?
1
5.8
2
5.9
| 110m, 14 | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 14 Nov. 2019 | ||||
We stretched p2 to the intermediate rap anchor and then linked 3 and 4
|
|||||||||
5.10a |
★★ Three Border Phatties
1
5.9
2
5.10a
| El Potrero Chico | Dim 19 Jan 2020 | ||||||
After a scramble up 20 feet or so then one climbing move to get to the first bolt... I was a bit terrified for a minute. Gathered my wits and was able to get the draw in. First pitch was a cruise from there. Second pitch was a really cool double crack on a right angle. Amazing route! My first multi pitch. The second anchor is a bit awkward. It's right before a ledge, seems like the anchor could be 1 meter up for a standing belay.
|
|||||||||
5.10c |
★★ Crescent Moon Buttress
- avec
Cinthia Mtz
| 20m, 8 | Las Ventanas de Mina | ★★★ Classique | Sam 2 Jan 2021 | ||||
Sentí dos secuencias de pasos como un 5.9 en el ultimo pitch en lugar de 5.8
|
|||||||||
5.10b |
★★ Smoke Bluff Connection
1
5.8
25m
3
5.10b
20m
| 90m | Squamish | ★★ Excellent | Dim 25 Juil 2021 | ||||
Great climb, but pitch 4 is a weird one.
|
|||||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Star Chek - avec Justine Cole | 85m, 16 | Cheakamus Canyon | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 10 Oct. 2017 | ||||
We actually didn't climb the standard last two pitches. I lead a trad climbing just following a small crack (5.6 Trad) on the left of the route and Justine lead a big crack in on the left of the last pitch (5.8 Trad ).
|
|||||||||
5.9 |
★★ Ramsey's Shenanigans
| 75m | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 14 Nov. 2019 | ||||
Fantastic route. Only did the first two pitches due to bad beta at the bottom from other climbers telling us the 3rd pitch had had the bolts chopped (they have been replaced). Linked both pitches into one.
|
|||||||||
5.9 |
★★ Arnor
1
5.9
45m
| 45m, 12 | Lac Sam | Lun 29 Juin 2020 | |||||
Great climb, second pitch felt pretty easy, or it was the pressure from it starting to rain while climbing it.
|
|||||||||
5.9 |
★★★ Snake
1
5.7
220m
2
5.7
6
5.7
| 220m | Squamish | ★★ Excellent | Mar 11 Août 2020 | ||||
Decent climb wandering between other climbs. Route finding involved. The best pitches are the last three. Crux was the last few moves of P4.
It's also on that climb that I leaned SR means standard rack and not single rack. And Squamish SR is a few more cams than a single rack... Made it interesting. |
|||||||||
5.8 |
★★ Adagio
1
5.7
80m
2
5.6
3
5.6
4
5.8
| 80m | Weir | ★★ Excellent | Dim 11 Oct. 2020 | ||||
Had to bail out since my seconds freaked out at the traverse pitch
|
|||||||||
5.9 |
★★★ Star Chek
- avec
Ryan Parker
4
5.9
25
| 80m, 16 | Cheakamus Canyon | ★★★ Classique | Mar 5 Oct. 2021 | ||||
Linked pitch one and half of pitch two, Ryan Parker linked the second half of pitch two with pitch three.
|
|||||||||
5.9 A0+ |
★★ Heart Line
- avec
Emma Sykes
| 590m | Canmore | Mer 22 Juin 2022 | |||||
Absolute mammoth climb. 17 pitches and over 500m of scrambling. This climb had a great mix of everything, soloing, aiding and simul-climbing. This route is long, fun and a great all day adventure.
|
|||||||||
5.9 | ★ UFOs, Big Rigs and Burritos - avec Eli | 58m, 11 | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Excellent | Sam 6 Août 2022 | ||||
Buen multi, que te lleva al salon azteca.
|
|||||||||
5.9 | ★★ Butt Light - avec Jess C | 190m, 4 | Squamish | ★★★ Classique | Dim 7 Août 2022 | ||||
Gets a mega classic from me for the variety and unique moves - not very often you can chimney and layback at the same time. Great climbing high above the hordes on the apron and the highway noise, and you get a chance to see people crushing on the Prow Wall.
Took a #4 but couldn't find a placement on P6 (I looked), still salty about dragging it up all the way to the top. Gear is good on the climb and the two bolts on the crux pitch makes it feel much easier than other 5.9s. Thought the whole climb was soft for the grade. |
|||||||||
5.9 |
★★★ Wet Dreams
| 120m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 25 Sept 2022 | ||||
Best route I've climbed on 'le Dôme' so far. First pitch is a stellar 5 star climb in itself. Good rack management is required for this long pitch which offers constant exposure and difficulty. The remainder of the climb offers great climbing interrupted by a short "not so great" section. P2 and P3 can be linked but careful rope drag management is required, as well as being very comfortable at the grade.
|
|||||||||
5.9 |
★★ El encadenado
- avec
Michelle Rayas
| 85m, 10 | La Huasteca | ★★ Excellent | Dim 6 Nov. 2022 | ||||
Muy buena ruta para practicar multis, en the crag solo estan registrados dos largos, pero hay un tercero, 5.9 y que sin duda vale la pena. NOTA: NO SIGAS DESPUES DE LA TERCER REUNION, ya que la ruta no esta terminada
|
|||||||||
5.9 |
★★ Calculus Crack Direct (Calculus Crack Direct Linkup Random pitch to South Arete)
- avec
Spencer Sloane
3
5.8
linkup Random pitch to South Arete
4
5.8
linkup South Arete
5
5.9
linkup South Arete
6
5.4
linkup South Arete
7
5.7
8
5.8
| 80m | Squamish | ★★ Excellent | Sam 2 Sept 2023 | ||||
Crazy busy day, planned to do 'Long Time No See' but ended up on Calculus Direct to avoid a large crowd but still hit traffic at the top belay of the second pitch of calculus. Then headed up 'South Arete' (again to avoid the crowds). Then made our way up the last 2 pitches of 'Long Time No See' before heading back down.
|
|||||||||
5.9 |
★★★ Calculus Crack
1
5.9
150m
2
5.8
3
5.6
4
5.8
5
5.7
6
5.0
| 150m | Squamish | ★★★ Classique | Lun 13 Mai 2019 | ||||
Mostly Cruisy line with some technical and varied climbing. Lost friction and slipped a few meters off the ground to lose the onsight.
|
|||||||||
5.9 |
★ Ursa Minor
1
5.7
2
5.8
3
5.9
4
5.6
5
5.4
6
5.0
| 120m | Cheakamus Canyon | Ven 20 Sept 2019 | |||||
September rain climb. Went the day after rain. Stone was still wet at a lot of places. Some brown moss still around adding some difficulty.
Flagging tape makes approach easy.
P5 is very easy, but we still made it with belay since it was slippery.
P6 has 3 bolts, but does not require any gear. The hike down could be considered more dangerous than this pitch.
P1,P5 and P6 would be a nice lead for kids. Well protected.
|
|||||||||
5.8 |
Unknown multipitch
- avec
Carly
1
5.8
2
5.3
3
5.6
| Red Rock | Mar 17 Déc 2019 | ||||||
Friendly local pointed us to this route. Lovely little multipitch outing on a day of cragging. Needed to rap all three pitches.
|
|||||||||
5.8 | ★ Voltswagen - avec D-Lit | 150m | Solar Panel | ★ Bon | Ven 12 Juin 2020 | ||||
Dave's first multi-pitch, alternated leads. Second pitch felt more like 5.7. All in all, quality climbing all the way up.
|
|||||||||
5.8 |
★★ Frontside 180
- avec
Sophia Krstin
1
5.7
220m
2
5.7
3
5.6
4
5.7
5
5.8
6
5.7
| 220m | Cheakamus Canyon | ★ Bon | Ven 23 Juil 2021 | ||||
Linked 1-2 and 4-5 with a 70m easily and a few alpine draws helped. Would probably link 2-3 next time as the stance between 1-2 is a big ledge and 2-3 just a small foot-width ledge. Apparently 4-6 goes in 67m as a linkup but could be tight.
|
|||||||||
5.8 |
★★★ The Spirit of Squamish
- avec
D-Lit
1
5.7
30m
grimpé en tête par
D-Lit
5
5.8
30
grimpé en tête par
D-Lit
| 210m | Squamish | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 1 Août 2021 | ||||
Started up at around 6:30 pm for a sunset climb, finished up at the top in the dark. This is definitely going to be a classic! Linked pitches 2,3, and 4 with an 80 m rope, then also linked pitches 7 and 8. The slab traverse of pitch 6 was a personal favorite.
|
|||||||||
5.8 |
★★★ Walk On The Wild Side
1
5.8
300ft
2
5.7
3
5.5
| 91m, 6 | Joshua Tree National Park | Mer 1 Déc 2021 | |||||
Amazing route, hands down the most fun slab I've climbed. Seriously run out at times.
|
|||||||||
5.8 |
★★★ Hals-und Beinbruch
| 230m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Classique | Mer 22 Juin 2022 | ||||
Retrieved the gear from the accident. Wonderful climbing conditions! Lead it all in 6 pitches taking the original finish (5.4) which is much nicer than the 5.8 variation.
|
|||||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Skywalker - avec pan, Jess C | 140m, 6 | Squamish | ★★★ Super classique | Jeu 4 Août 2022 | ||||
Excellent. Personally think pitch 2 is the money pitch with cool moves all the way to the anchor, although the traverse pitch is pretty unique. Bonus points if you can do P4 hands free! Think this was better than Spirit of Skwamish, it's got the spicy unique factor that SoS doesn't.
Very popular, we were first up starting at 7.15 and the belays were stacked when we came down. Start early! |
|||||||||
5.8 | ★★★ The Spirit of Squamish - avec Jess C | 210m | Squamish | ★★★ Classique | Mer 3 Août 2022 | ||||
Enjoyable crack climbing the whole way up, with a slab sport pitch up the top. Very popular, so we came at 7.15 and were first up. Probably more enjoyable if there's no-one in front as the day before there were two groups stacked at the first anchor waiting for a slow party above.
Linked P2/P3, P7/P8 although could have linked P5/P6 with the 60m rope, although there's a good photo spot at the P5 belay next to the waterfall. Annoyingly went off route on the slab P6 and got stuck. Took double rack up to 2 and 1x#3, and had plenty of gear. P4 runout is trivial so don't need a #4. |
|||||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Calculus Crack - avec Jess C | 150m | Squamish | ★★ Excellent | Dim 7 Août 2022 | ||||
Used calculus crack to access the climbs at the top of the buttress. As this is one of the easier routes up I wouldn't recommend it as we got stuck behind a few slow parties - it's very busy. Definitely detracts from the climb waiting on the belays. Otherwise good crack climbing, P3 and P4 were the best.
Also messed up the 4th pitch and climbed above the belay point, although it did mean we were able to climb the final 3 pitches in 2. |
|||||||||
5.7 |
★★ Spiderman (Spiderman P1)
1
5.7
70 'ft'
| 21m | Smith Rock State Park | ★★ Excellent | Mer 21 Oct. 2015 | ||||
First ever trad lead in 2015
|
|||||||||
5.6 | ★★★ Popcorn - avec K Sullivan | 43m | Musquodoboit Valley Area | Dim 11 Juil 2021 | |||||
#1 of the day. Kevin led the first pitch cuz I was in my head and didn't want to have to think. He then talked me into doing the second pitch. Walked off instead of doing the R rated 3rd pitch. Great route!
|
|||||||||
5.5 |
Chimney Cricket
- avec
Emma Sykes
| 140m | Yamnuska | ★ Bon | Lun 27 Juin 2022 | ||||
Don't think I hit a single belay ledge in the right spot. Pretty sure I was off route for some of it, but who knows. Good climb none the less
|
|||||||||
5.10c |
★★★ Pancho Villa Rides Again
- avec
Gabriel Rocha
1
5.10c
2
5.10b
| 160m, 14 | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Classique | Ven 17 Fév 2023 | ||||
Awesome - I am so bad at cracks, but had fun!
Partner sprained his ankle so we had to bail after P2.
|
|||||||||
5.10a |
Econoline
- avec
Laura
1
5.8
45m
2
5.8
30m
3
5.10a
50m
4
5.7
30m
5
5.8
30m
6
5.9
30m
7
5.6
40m
| 260m | Canmore | Dim 25 Juil 2021 | |||||
Got on the wrong climb
|
|||||||||
5.10a |
★★ True Grit
- avec
Laura
1
5.10a
170m
2
3
4
5
6
| 170m | Canmore | Dim 25 Juil 2021 | |||||
Hit the F-it button.
|
|||||||||
5.9 |
★★★ North Chimney
- avec
Theo, Claus
| 120m | Castle Valley | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 27 Juil 2022 | ||||
Theo kotzte in den Stand, schlechte Milch
|
|||||||||
5.8 |
★★★ Calculus Crack
- avec
robyn
1
5.7
150m
2
5.8
3
5.6
4
5.8
5
5.7
6
5.0
| 150m | Squamish | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 4 Juil 2018 | ||||
Retreated due to downpour
|
|||||||||
5.12d |
★★★ El Sendero Luminoso
1
5.12b
2
5.12d
3rd try (Day 2)
3
5.12b
4
5.12a
5
5.12b
2nd try
6
5.12b
7
5.12b
8
5.12b
9
5.12
10
5.11a
11
5.10c
12
5.12b
13
5.12d
14
5.11a
15
5.10b
16
5.7
| 530m, 16 | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 17 Jan 2023 | ||||
INCREDIBLE!!! So freaking stoked to tick this off the life list. Went up the first 5 pitches on our first attempt, and I found P2 and P5 to be very difficult for me, having to pull on draws through both cruxes. Spent another day working out the beta on P2 and then went for a two day ascent. I was super happy to get through the first 5 with no falls. After a somewhat terrifying bivvy on the ledge, I surprised myself with another no-fall day on the upper pitches. Team send with Zach! Couldn't be happier.
|
|||||||||
5.12b Difficile |
Zapatista
1
5.11a
2
5.11b
3
5.11d
4
5.12b
Una caida en el crux.
5
5.11b
| 150m | El Potrero Chico | Jeu 11 Jan 2024 | |||||
Cada largo tiene mucha calidad.
|
|||||||||
5.11c |
★★★ High Plains Drifter
- avec
William Wardlaw-Kelly
1
5.11a
30m
2
5.11c
25m
3
5.6
15m
| 70m | Squamish | Mar 15 Août 2023 | |||||
Ah very hard in 30+ degree weather
|
|||||||||
5.11b |
★ Macaque-Attaque
1
5.11b
10m
2
5.8
45m
| 55m, 5 | Portneuf | ★ Bon | Sam 4 Sept 2021 | ||||
Still a little drity (we broke a 50cm*50cm*20cm piece off). Pretty airy pitch, nice moves up the overhanging arete. This is a one move wonder with a pretty far reach. I worked the move until I found the way to do it. Lowered and redpointed the pitch. 5'9", +1 ape index.
|
|||||||||
5.10d |
★★★ Space Boyz
- avec
Nico
1
5.8
1000ft
2
5.9
3
5.9
4
5.9
5
5.10a
6
5.10d
7
5.10c
8
5.9
| 300m | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Classique | Mar 10 Mars 2020 | ||||
Bailed after completing pitch 9.
|
|||||||||
5.10d |
★★★ La vida prestada
- avec
Elier Mayorga, El sebas
2
5.10d
grimpé en tête par
Gustavo Arechavaleta
No hubo vuelo pero en el crux hay un pequeño trozo de cuerda que cuelga de la placa y no resistí la tentanción de sujetarlo hehehe. Queda pendiente el encadene de este largo, el más chido a mi parecer.
4
5.10b
grimpé en tête par
El sebas
| Cañon de San Lorenzo | ★★★ Classique | Dim 4 Juin 2023 | |||||
Muy divertido multi con Changoman y el Sebas. Ahora el multi se llama machete sin filo.
|
|||||||||
5.10d |
★★★ Pitch Black
- avec
Gustavo Arechavaleta
| 200m | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Classique | Sam 23 Sept 2023 | ||||
Buen multi! Los largos si son muy laaaaargos jeje
|
|||||||||
5.10d |
★★★ La Fer
- avec
Juan Pablo glez tum
2
5.10d
50 m
grimpé en tête par
Juan Pablo glez tum
long and mental, made one A0-move with a draw because I got completely lost | 120m, 22 | La Presa | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 20 Déc 2023 | ||||
awesome multipitch (3 pitches: 10d, 10c/d, 10c) above the Río Nazas bolted by Juan Pablo and Miguel, absolute KINGLINE
|
|||||||||
5.10 |
★★★ L'Odyssée
1
5.4
355m
2
5.4
3
5.7
4
5.8
5
5.8
6
5.10
7
5.9
| 360m | Portneuf | ★★★ Classique | Sam 4 Sept 2021 | ||||
Took the Macaque-Attaque variation.
|
|||||||||
5.10a |
★★ Aguja Cielo Rey
- avec
Garrick Byers
2
5.10a
20m
| 20m, 6 | El Potrero Chico | ★ Bon | Mer 31 Jan 2024 | ||||
Only did the second pitch after navigating from Crack Test and a traverse and rap
|
|||||||||
V10 | ★★ Resident Evil | Joe's Valley | Jeu 16 Nov. 2006 | ||||||
Just The Beginning...Lot's of Climbing Left On this trip...Maximal!
|
|||||||||
5.11b |
★★ Slippery Down Under (Slippery Down Under P1)
- avec
Santiago Barrueta
1
5.11b
330 ft
| 100m, 13 | El Potrero Chico | Sam 20 Juin 2020 | |||||
Primer ruta que escalo en MESES hasta me sentí raro enclipando
|
|||||||||
5.13c | ★★★ Dream On | Mickey's Beach | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | ||||||
easy!!!
|
|||||||||
5.12a 5.13c | ★★ Arbolito Extensión (Plesiosaurio) - avec Manolo Ruiz | 30m, 14 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ★★ Excellent | Dim 3 Déc 2017 | ||||
pues si salio, termine abrazando con las piernas la tufota para poner la reunion; pero pues todo se vale.
|
|||||||||
5.13c | ★★★ Dante's Inferno | 30m | El Salto; C.d.G. | Mer 4 Mars 2020 | |||||
easy 5.13c
|
|||||||||
8b 5.13c | ★★★ Fight Club | 25m | Mt Vernon | Lun 3 Août 2009 | |||||
8a/+?
|
|||||||||
5.13c | Loverface | 15m | Red River Gorge | Mer 9 Nov. 2016 | |||||
Bouldery. A bit sharp.
|
|||||||||
5.11d 5.13b/c | ★★★ EL Banjo de Homero (Brotherhood) | 35m | El Salto; C.d.G. | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | ||||
5.11c
|
|||||||||
V8 | ★ Peeping Tom | Mickey's Beach | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | ||||||
easy!!!
|
|||||||||
5.13b | Calamity Jane | 14m | Wild Iris | Dans la moyenne | Dim 31 Juil 2011 | ||||
bouldery
|
|||||||||
5.12a |
★★★ Mexican Guarantee (Mexican Guarantee P1)
1
5.12a
| 40m | El Potrero Chico | Ven 5 Jan 2018 | |||||
Powerful moves with small crimps . Cool
|
|||||||||
5.13b | ★★★ La Venenosa (Venanosa) | 28m, 14 | El Salto; C.d.G. | Dim 10 Fév 2019 | |||||
crumbly fight tot he anchors
|