Voies trad dans Moksnesøya

Description and topo available here:

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214814/Breiflogtinden-East-Face-Arctic-Odyssey

Topo here.

One of the best routes out West with stacked climbing on good rock. Most bolts have been recently re-equipped.

1. Easy scrambling up the leaning pillar.

2. Trends gently right up middle of slab to a small ledge. Bit runout in places but safe.

3. Some more of the same slab off the belay, passing a bolt (no hanger) to a finger crack. Gear belay (bolt there; Has no hanger).

4. The crux of the route. 5 bolts protect a powerful sequence (can be done A0) into some technical slab work. Semi hanging belay with one bolt in a corner below the perfect splitter.

5. Climb the splitter to a DBB (some signs of corrosion on these bolts).

6. Traverse out right into an akward, slightly vegetated crack. Traverse left when you pass the roof via slabs with underclings to access the next crack system. Climb up this to a DBB. It may be worth splitting this pitch in 2.

7. Continue up the crack. When this ends a bolt protects moves left into the next system & up to another DBB.

8. Climb the remaining crack system to a DBB under the roof.

9. Underclings right under the roof then up the corner. A low angled ramp leads up to a DBB.

10. Easy scrambling up the corner to the base of the chimney.

11. Chimney challenge then grassy slopes up to the clean looking flakes.

12. Climb the flakes then scramble left to belay at the base of the large detached flake.

13. Squirm your way up then a couple of face climbing moves to gain LF corner. Follow this up to a big ledge with a single bolt. A bit vegetated.

14. Take the handcrack in the corner then scramble to the top.

Some images here-

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There are topos here and here. The first ascentionists recommend taking a #6 to protect the pitch 5 off width.

A description and some images of the route can be found here

Topo here. Be prepared to run it out at the grade for sections on the 2/3 crux pitches. Some big cams nice to have for the rest of the climb. A description and some images of the route can be found here

On the East Face of Stamprevtinden South Peak. There´s a topo here and full trip report here.

Descent:

follow the south ridge until the Helvetestinden pass and down a gully to the Kirkefjord

A description & topo available here

One of the routes with better rock on Helvetestinden. The first pitch is softer than 7 (6+) but long (60m+) & bold. Double 3s & a 4 recommended for P3 (7-). Pitch 4 is long but closer to N6.

On the North Face of Moltbaertinden North Peak. Description & topo available

Descent:

two rappels until the north ridge. Follow the ridge to the north and down a large gully between Moltbaertinden and Breiflogtinden.

Shared start with One Hundred Years Later on the grassy slopes above a leaning pillar. All stances are bolted.

Topo here

Description here

Topo here

A serious and sandbagged line with a death pitch up high and some difficult route finding. Not recommended. Topo here

Some images here:

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More images and brief desription

Topo here

Bold slab climbing. There´s a topo here.

AAC article with a description here

An abandoned Arild Meyer line completed by a Russian team with some aid in 2009. Topo here

Topo here

The direct finish to Första approximationen

1. Up the corner on jugs then slabs to a grassy crack. Belay at a good stance below grassy ledges. A long pitch with some short runouts at the beginning.

2. Out left from the grassy ledge & into the base of a left to right corner system. 5/10m of easy stuff then head out onto the arête where there´s a short sequence of hard moves. Continue until reaching a band of darker rock. Step right here to a small stance at the base of a dihedral.

3. Steep finger jamming up the diherdral. Belay at good stance in a corner. An excellent pitch

4. Straight up (loose) then out right where a short steep section gains the terrace.

5. Ignore the guidebook and go straight up the clean crack to a good ledge.

6. Rock quality deteriorates from here. There´s a comfy belay ledge 20m past the roof.

7. More of the same to another big ledge on the corner.

8. Og igjen..

> A short with Katie Lambert & Caroline George on NBT

Some images-

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A serious and sandbagged line with some difficult route finding and very loose rock from pitch 5 upwards. Not recommended. Topo here

Images here:

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Description and topo available

Descent follows the SE ridge in the direction of Vinstad.

A topo & some images available here

Perhaps the most popular route to the summit

Follow the obvious crack up the inside corner. Easy to protect. Beware the thin flake.

Make a big step over the water and climb "right on the Edge".

Follow the crack to the right and climb the arete til the top.