Voies trad dans Norvège

Follows the start of “Norwegian Crown”, then “Eigerdosis” and 40m of easier ground (around 7c) to the finish.

Overhanging crack climb!

Second pitch of Norwegian Crown. Initially climbed as A2.

As Mari Augusta Salvesen puts it: "The route is a splitter crack, jams all the way, so I agree it looks pretty straight forward from the ground. And I guess it is pretty straightforward, but the steepness and flaredness just seem to tire you out. You're basically stuffing meat into slots that are either too big for fingers or too small for hands, then lock off and move on, with the occasional hand jam rest."

Route description available here

Serious business. Originally an aid line (C2) named after the local geology, then freed by Martin in 2015. The free version starts from the ledge above Diederet, goes up to the break, then traverses right into the crackproper. Straight up the unrelenting crack until it terminates then traverse left and up the arête to run it out 8m to the top. The aid version starts 10m below. Start as for Diederet then move right to the thin seam. The original(?) belay bolts at the end of the finger crack were removed for the FFA rendering the aid finish undetermined. According to the 2007 Telemark guide the aid route follows the same path as the free route out left to the arete, apparently on bathooks.

Between 'Fribryting' and 'Tenna i tapeten'

Info Bergen Climbing club

Video Wide Boys

Some aesthetic looking pitches that are rumoured to climb not quite as nice as the other lines here.

There is a short on this route available

Route description and topo here

Tackles the full height of the slabs and upper pillar. A big step up from Freya in terms of exposure and difficulty. Reportedly committing; You need to be in solid 8a shape for pitch 12 .

Freed in 2017.

This unmissable overhanging roof crack is the first route you´ll see when driving into Henningsvær. Put up & named by Robert Caspersen after his brothers (Pål Espen) tragic death on Presten.

It´s one of the hardest lines on the islands but was on-sighted by Pete Whittaker in 2019.

If you´re not a Pete Whittaker type, with easy access & good protection, it´s probably your best candidate for an 8a trad project. Consider quadruple cams from 0.5 to 1".

As of 2021, fixed equipment has been installed before the mantle, presumably to facilitate working/cleaning the route. The mantle is no gimmie & is part of the original line.

Some images here:

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Topo, Klatring på Hvaler

Starts up Ilddåpen, then traverses left after the dihedral to reach a stance below the overhanging finger crack. Follow the sustained crack on good gear to easier ground. Classic.

https://borebloggen.blogspot.com/2019/08/erik-grandelius-repeterer-den-mytiske.html

A closed project

https://brattelinjer.no/problem/7597

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jyvyJKIzyes

The King Line of the great pillar. With big exposure & stacked pitches, it´s a worthy destination route for those strong enough.

To descend, continue up the final pitches (9.5-16) of Storpillaren

Freed in 2015. There´s a Topo & description on Planet Mountain

An outrageous, overhanging open project. The first pitch is bolted and has not been freed, the 2nd pitch goes on gear but has only been top roped clean.

Best approached from the West by parking just before Skjellesvikskaret. A faint climbers trail trends right across the base & up to the lake where open grassy slopes lead to the top of Kjerna. Rapp down the SE cliffs of the ridge (2 rapps, 1 bolt on each station)

A closed project

Route description here

Mixed route with a cam needed for the upper section

The first route up the West wall ascends the pillar left of the central grass line. The hard crux moves can be done at 7- A1.

Some images here-

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Information here

Mixed line through the overhang

Video beta:

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Partly bolted

Partly bolted

Topo, Klatring på Hvaler

The one and only 35 deg overhanging dihedral. Near flawless.

Moss' magnum opus. Brilliant route up the blank face and arête. Rebolted in 2005 with unrecessed rings and an unwanted DBB 28m up. Do the original route and continue up on easy ground with optional wires to the DRB at the top.

DBB

Steep fingers & hands up the flake into a mantle and slab finish. Protection is fine despite the heart rating in the guidebook.

Bolted loweroff as of 2019 (possible to setup a TR)

A route with quite an interesting background story. Freed by Eivind and Kalle in 2023. Description and some images

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