Voies dans Norvège pour la cotation selectionnée

Classic line heading up the full height of Presten. Starts on right side of main face, about 20m left of a steep choked gully. Abseil retreat possible with two ropes without leaving gear up to end of pitch 4.

1. Up centre of three shallow corners, then traverse left to crack which leads to a small ledge with a chain belay to the right.

2. Follow groove then up to flake/block on the left. Continue into a thin finger-crack and continuation to bolt/chain belay.

3. Up the narrow groove then left up a diagonal ramp to bolt/chain belay.

4. Short wall and groove then up to bolt/chain belay. This pitch can be linked into the following with careful rope management.

5. Move up to right of large block and follow cracks to belay on top of block.

6. Up thin cracks/grooves to a good ledge, then traverse 20m left (some rope drag and loose rock) to belay on a higher ledge in base of groove.

7. Follow groove and flake until it becomes a thin crack, then step left into a parallel crack system. Continue up into a left-facing groove to belay above a bulge in the corner.

8. Continue up the groove then right into slabby groove. Belay on either of two ledges at the base of the 'Slanting Corner'.

9. The 'Slanting Corner'. Up the clean groove to tiny ledge, then trend left before heading right (can be climbed direct, but harder). Below up right at large block.

10. Up left across ledges to a large loose flake jammed in a groove. Climb carefully up past the flake, then continue left up a chimney groove and below at its top, below open groove.

11. Follow the open groove up and right to its top, then move down and right for several metres, before traversing horizontally right. Make delicate moves around right into the grassy exit gully.

12. Scramble up grassy gully to top.

The route used to be trad (and is still a nice trad climb), but has been bolted in recent years.

Start at the chalked jugs and up the crack line to double bolt anchor.

The height is estimated to 30m. A 60m rope works just enough when you get back down as long as you unclip on your way down. Grade set according to latest updated book which is Climb Norway. Oslo guide has this at NWG:6

On the left side of the freestanding rock, following the left arete and then up the face on the right of the arrete. You can use the wall on the left too, until you have to traverse out right. Has its own anchor at the top of the face.

One of the best lines here. Pitch 1 goes just right of Gandalf & up the corner with a tree before trending right & up the arete to a large belay ledge. Pitch 2 heads right & then up the short & steep hand crack (crux) to a ledge. The final pitch takes gradually easing finger cracks through the orange rock to the summit.

Pitch 3 image-

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Fanny Cassandra Victorin (@fannyvictorin)

Was trad, now bolted

It is common to skip the first two pitches and start directly from the ramp.

Common first bolt with "Tiriltoppen".

On the shelf.

1. Start up the slab then follow the obvious easy system to a ledge.

2. More easy slabs to a ledge.

3. More straightforward cruising. Belay at the base of the right leaning corner.

4. Climb RF corner up to the first big ledge system.

5. Walk left to belay on a small ledge below the next groove system

6. Follow the grooves to belay at the base of the bombay chimney.

7. Rock, paper scissors for carrying the pack then up the chimney to a ledge.

8. Straight forward cracks

9. Up the finger crack until an awkward move left is needed. Continuing up this groove leads to the 2nd Amfi (Where it´s possible to retreat). Set your belay below 40m pillar with twin grooves.

10. Climb the mini roof to a small ledge.

11. Follow the crack, when it ends step left to belay at a good stance below the RF groove

12. The RF groove (crux) leads up to an exposed stance.

13. Down climb from the belay then traverse out right to access the gully. Follow this to the summit.

Up the pinnacle and continue on slab.

There is an anchor at about 20 m. Grade 5 up to this anchor. Downgraded 2019.

Route links Batman with Fattig Ynskje. Start at Batman, continue straight up and finish at the anchor of Fattig Ynskje.

Suggested grade.

The route starts by climbing up the tree next to the wall, in order to step onto the wall and clip the first bolt.

A few bolts on the slab. Full rack required. https://norwayoutdoorsblog.wordpress.com/2016/09/04/den-hvite-stripa-andersnatten/

Goes up in the overhanging corner. Eventually merges with "Beethoven's 5'te".

Read the fantastic "Hagefjell - Nissedal" 2020, by Tina Jorgensen Great topos, route and pitch descriptions!

New route right of Johansens legat. Grade suggested.

Polished start 🙁, in the middle little dyno or technical (more easy) moves, than endurance to top.

Second pitch is a "must do!"

Same anchor as "En flåte av stein". New route with expansion bolts.

Starts the same place as Blade runner and Tristan og Isolde. Goes between the other two routes.

I would say this is a sport climb with a quite high first bolt, rather than a trad/mix route. If you climb harder than 6 then it's an okay sport route.

2 pitches (5-, 6), Gives access to most of the routes from the main shelf, mid wall ("Kurssektoren upper").

At first easy scrambling, then steep and funny climbing. 5 bolt + anchor.

Could be done in two pitches. first pitch is no more than 10 meters, this bolted anchor/ pitch rumored to be made for the bolters children. ( See noname 3)

The second pitch on the wall, after the anchor of "Gruppeseks"/"Tørr seks".

New route just right of Timotei.

On the shelf.

Between Ingwe and Trykkokeren. Feels hard, but is 6a+ in the guidebook.

New route 2021, around Norwegian grade 6.

Nice climbing on good holds. 5 bolts + anchor.