Voies dans Roumanie pour la cotation selectionnée

2x60m rope required for rappelling

The route has a lot of pythons and can be easily aided (6+, A0).

The crux move is morpho so the grade is subjective. At 1,74 I would say it is around (hard) 8-.

The route wanders a lot so half-ropes are really useful. Also, half-ropes are really useful for the retreat.

After the last pitch, continue to climb over some grass ledges, then descend on the south side and find a rappel station. From here, a long abseil follows (around 60m) or 2 shorter ones (you will find the chains of a sport route for the second abseil).

While going from the last belay station to the rappel station it is recommended to remain roped .

Another option is to abseil over the same side you climbed (look around for other belay stations from other routes, it might be useful).

A well protected route (bolted/natural features belays, occasional bolts on the route itself, the original aid pitons still in place) following a highly aesthetic crack system.

P1: After an initial overhang, traverse to the left until reaching a ledge, then follow a dihedral to the belay (a comfortable ledge with 2 trees)

P2: Head up on a dihedral then traverse left on a small arete, continuing until the base of a 20m long hand-sized crack. At the metal pipe, traverse right, horizontally, until reaching easier ground. Bolted belay.

P3: Traverse/downclimb slightly to the right and follow a slightly overhanging, and then vertical crack on more sustained terrain than P2. Bolted belay.

Very long and needs sustained effort for long sections. Easy sections are few and short so you can only rest either on the few easier sections or on bad holds.

Solve a hard roof boulder that leads to somewhat easier semi-sustained face-climbing.

A different style of line with a technical start. When you reach the roof you can either traverse into Bulibasa to the right (easier) or stem up and left and traverse the far wall going left, eventually finishing on the same anchors (harder).

An absolute classic. THE must-do line in the cave at the grade.

Slippery crimps