Voie dans Seweweeks Wand pour la cotation selectionnée

Note on the topo:

The black dotted lines indicate ledges that access quite deep into the wall. The lower one is refered to as To Hell and Gone Ledge and the upper one, Skulls Ledge.

The white line indicates two pitches of a new route that Benj and I tried but bailed off of. It was rather loose. A variation may be possible with a bolt or two (or enough courage to make up for their absence). The dark blue line (two pitches: grades 15,15) was opened by A. Heinlaender and myself, as a means to scope out the wall. It is not part of an established route i.e. the frontal still needs to be completed.

The dotted green line indicates a better start to The Hovering which has yet to be done.

The Hovering:

1. 19 (40m) Climb diagonally rightwards to a big ledge and stance at its far right side.

2. 19 (30m) Start up a corner which leads to the right side of a very clean dark wall. Climb directly to stance below some undercut dark brown rock.

3. 20 (40m) Climb the face to the right of the corner system, tending diagonally rightwards towards a break in the roof. (Approx. 4m to the right of the break is a prominent roof crack.) Move between rails and slightly left towards the break once you have reached the roofs. Break through by railing to the right (don’t go left- Loose!) and continue up to stance on Skulls Ledge.

4. 19 (30m) Walk left for approx. 20m past the first big corner. Stop at the second corner and begin climbing to the right of a big flake/block. Climb via nice cracks and rails (Diagonally rightwards) to pull through the roof at its smallest point. Continue to the top.

Descent: The ledges marked by the dotted black lines are very convenient for getting off the face. NB they only run as far as indicated and not across the whole face. Walking off from the summit is possible but is very complicated and unpleasant (one can walk down either way).

I suggest walking down from the summit to the far left of Skulls Ledge (take care) and using the in situ abseil there. This abseil takes you down to just above the obvious big white ship's bow on the left edge of the wall where you will find the second abseil anchors. Feel free to back them up. 50m ropes do work but it is better to have 60m ropes.