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Sit Down Start. Both hands on the shelf at the base of the large scoop. Climb straight up the right side of the scoop to top out.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Permadraws at the anchor

Standing Start, right hand in rail, left hand on sidepull. Climb along the left hand crack and top out.

20/6b

A long-time classic snaking it's way up a steep granite wall courtesy of a fat vein of juggy quartz.

1. 6 bolts

2. 10 bolts

3. 4 bolts

A nice jamming, stemming and lay back crack that can teach new skills to sport climbers.

Climb rightwards up the arete

Up the dihedral then finish up the face.

1. [17] 17m

2. [16] 20m

3. [20] 10m

4. [16] 30m

A classic - sustained mix of technical face climbing and cranky pulls using amazing holds. Placement of the bolt on Direct Variation through final overlap (to the right) confuses finish - ignore this bolt.

On the tower on the left. Start from the rock platform on the right. ±1-2m above the ground

Sit-start and climb the easy corner.

Sit-start with good hold under roof and climb up the large flake.

First, second and third ascensionists say 20, and without gloves. There is talk of it being harder. Def harder if you can not hand jam. I am open to upgrading.

Express anchors as lower-offs

Sit-start under small roof with horn and climb through the bulge.

Sit-start under low arete and climb up.

Video

Climb the leftward tending crack / seam.

Sitstart. Climb the fingery crack and nearby holds to TO.

Sit-start with rail and climb up corner

Sit-start with large rail and climb up diagonally left along the lip.

SS climb arete, keep going L to the same TO as for Hip Hip Chin Chin

Variation to 'Vlad the Impaler'

Take slings to extend the anchors at the end of wimp

1. 10 bolts

2. 7 bolts

Descent: Lower off the chains ±7m to the neck, then scramble up and off the back.

Sit start on lowest hold, move R, then up to the next rail, trav R to TO on the prow.

Sit start on good jugs, move up to lip and then traverse all the way along the obvious lip/prow. TO at the peak of the prow, being a similar finish to Mike's traverse.

The rock is also very polished on this route

The first half of the route goes up 'All Along the Watchtower' open book, then after exiting (above) the open book traverse left a few meters then upwards, keeping left of Watchtower Reverb Minor lower-offs

Climb the juggy arete.

This sandbagged 5 is on a small boulder 5 metres down the hill from the Captain Boulder. Crouch or sit start with sidepulls and underclings, move out right to a crimp, then top out.

Granite classic! Glue-in lower-off's at the finish.

Climb the finger crack through the face staying right and onto a ledge. Head straight up staying just left of the aloe on the face. Climbing left at the start or end lowers the grade to 18 (not recommended).

A Classic!

Standing start, climb the obvious centre slab line; or alternatively from a running start without hands!

Sit start with BH on good edge. One big move up to shelf with bad feet. Climb straight up, just left of Legz Akimbo to TO.