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Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Popularité Falaise
Unknown
6a+ Panettonau

FA: M. Bassi & G. Peduzzi, 2012

Non-défini 30m Piansecco
6a+ Peperina
1 5c
2 6a+
3 5c
4 6a
Non-défini 4 Albigna
6a+ Fidibus
1 6a+
2 5b
3 4b
4 4b
5 4a
Non-défini 5 Albigna
6a+ Ostplatten 2
Non-défini 2 Alpstein
6a+ Alte Südwand

FA: S. Abderhalden & M. Niedermann, 1954

Non-défini 7 Alpstein
Trad
6a+ Albatross
1 5c+ 50m
2 6a+ 25m
3 6a 30m
4 3a 20m
Trad mixte 130m, 4, 12 Alpstein
6a+ Südwestpfeiler
1 5b
2 5c+
3 5c
4 5b
5 5c+
6 6a
7 6a+
8 5c
9 5b

(6a obl.)

P. 2332

Steile und athletische Wandkletterei, Abseilen über die SW-Wand 2x50 Meter Seil.

Topo auf rebolting.ch.

Équip.: H. Grossen & W. Josi, 1979

Entr.: A. Wicky & A. Voegeli, Sept 2018

Trad 9 Jungfrau Region
6a+ Hooters
1 5a
2 6a+
3 6a+
4 6a
5 5a
Trad mixte 120m, 5, 10 Gornerflue
6a+ H2O Trad Grimsel
6a+ Rotkäppchen
1 6a+
2 2a
3 5c
Trad mixte 3, 10 Alpstein
6a+ Bärenschulter
1 5c
2 5c+
3 5b
4 5b
5 6a+
Trad 5 Grimsel
6a+ Septumania
Trad 16 Grimsel
6 Orient Express
1 5c+
2 6
3 2a
4 5c

Ausstieg über die letzten zwei SL "Rotkäppchen"

Trad mixte 4, 12 Alpstein
6a+ Direkte Nordwand
1 4b 30m
2 5c 45m
3 5c+ 45m
4 5c+ 30m
5 6a+ 45m
6 6a 20m
7 5c+ 30m
8 5c 45m
9 5b 45m
10 5c+ 45m
11 2 45m

FA: M. Niedermann & P. Diener, 1956

Trad 430m, 11 Bockmattli
6a+ Route 4

(6a+, 5b obl.) Friends: 1x0.3-3, Keile Bleibt länger nass

Trad 30m Sustenpass
6a+ Rumax
1 6a+ 40m
2 5c+ 40m
3 6a 40m
4 5c 40m

12Quickdraws, Cams 00-4, 2x50m rope

FA: Röbi Ruckstuhl, Hans Gisler & Heinz Müller

Trad mixte 160m, 4, 7 Chli Bielenhorn
{UIAA} 7- Kingspitze-Nordostwand
1 4 50m
2 3 40m
3 2 50m
4 5- 30m
5 6- 30m
6 6- 40m
7 4+ 35m
8 6 30m
9 5- 35m
10 4+ 40m
11 5+ 40m
12 3 40m
13 6- 40m
14 7- 20m
15 4 50m
16 3 40m
17 3 40m
18 4 35m
19 5- 50m
20 2 30m
Trad 770m, 20 Engelhörner
6a+ Freetrip
1 6a+ 35m
2 6a+ 35m
3 5a 35m
4 5b 50m
5 6a 25m
6 6a 30m
7 5a 30m
8 5b 40m
Trad 280m, 8 Bockmattli
6a+ Elbimania
1 5b 25m
2 5c+ 48m
3 5c 25m
4 6a+ 40m
5 6a+ 45m
6 5a 30m

Topo download hosted by website of first-ascensionist of "Elbimania", Thomas Wälti.

FA: Christoph Angst & Thomas Wälti, 30 Mai 2020

Trad mixte 210m, 6, 5 Alpstein
6a+ Nass Trad Betonpfeiler
6a+ November Traeumli
1 5b+
2 5c+
3 6a+
4 6a
5 5c+
6 6a+
7 5b+
8 5a

Orange Point on the start of the Route. Material: 2x50m rope, 10 Quickdraws, Cams 1-4, Rocks(Stoppers) 4-9

Trad 200m, 8 Chli Bielenhorn
6a+ BasDino
1 6a+
2 5c
3 5c+
4 6a

5c obl.

FA: D. Deglise & M. Bassi, 2004

Équip.: M.Bassi & D.Deglise, 2004

Trad mixte 120m, 4, 14 Piansecco
6a+ Nordwandriss
1 3
2 6a
3 6a+
4 4a
Trad 4 Bockmattli
6a+ Tabula rasa
1 5a 40m
2 6a+ 40m
3 6a 40m
4 5c+ 25m
Trad 150m, 4 Dachberg
6a+ Tims Hakenfrevel Trad Betonpfeiler
6a+ Fair Head Line
1 6a+
2 6a
3 6a

ca 40m links der fair Hands Line, über ein Fixseil zum Einstieg. Es wird fast komplett selbst abgesichert, die Stände sind gebohrt. 2 xFriens 0.3-2 1 x Friend 3 ev Microfriends und Keile.

FA: Silvan Schüpbach, 2018

Trad 80m, 3 Grimsel
6a+ Direkter S-Pfeiler
1 5c+ 30m
2 6a+ 35m
3 6a 45m
4 5c+ 35m

5c+ obl., Friends

FA: C.Abegg & M.Dettling, 1996

Trad mixte 150m, 4, 10 Wändlispitz
6a+ Via Elena
1 3a
2 5c
3 5c
4 6a+
5 3b
6 4c
7 5a+
8 5a+

The last pitch has a technical part where it's intended to pull on the bolts. There is a possibility to free climb the traverse after clipping the traverse bolts and down climb about 2m, then it's about 6b+

FA: Tiziano Albertella, Erminio Ferrari & Angelo Tanadini, 1993

Trad mixte 250m, 9, 10 Sassariente
6a+ Blinde Kuh
1 6a+ 45m
2 6a+ 35m
3 5c+ 40m
4 5c 40m
Trad 160m, 4 Dachberg
6a+ Les Chants du Midi
1 5c
2 6a+
3 6a+
4 5a
5 5c
6 4a
7 6a
8 5c
9 6a
10 6a
11 6a

6a obl.

Descent: Rappel the route or walk off

Material: 2 x 50m ropes, set of nuts, mid-sized cams (BD C4 0.75-2), 10 quickdraws

Équip.: Walter Josi, Tobias Dolliger & Claude Zulauf, 1995

Trad mixte 370m, 11, 40 Pays du St-Bernard
6a+ Acquario
1 5c
2 6a
3 6a+
4 5c+
5 5a
6 5c
7 5b

6a+ obl.

FA: R.Pezzoli, S.Sposetti, S.Consolascio, R.Feretti & D.Sasselli, 1984

Trad mixte 270m, 7, 10 Avegno
6a+ Boludo

Équip.: E. Bernasconi, 2013

Trad 25m Revolution
6a+ Kurzschluss
1 5b
2 6a+
3 4c
4 5c
5 3c

FA: T. Gschwend & W. Heeb, 1989

Trad 5 Alpstein
6a+ Weg durch die Nabe
1 2a 45m
2 4a 50m
3 4b 50m
4 5a 43m
5 3c 50m
6 6a 25m
7 5b 30m
8 4b 36m
9 2b 50m
10 1 30m
11 5c 40m
12 6a+ 45m
13 3a 30m

Topo available for download through the website of first-ascensionist Thomas Wälti.

FA: Thomas Wälti, Christoph Angst & Ursi Goetz, 2001

Trad mixte 520m, 13, 4 Schreckhorn
6a+ Märku!?! Trad Schlossberg
6a+ Westpfeiler
1 3a 20m
2 4b 30m
3 4b 30m
4 6a+ 35m
5 5a 40m
6 5b 35m
7 4c 35m
8 3a 15m

einies an Bohrhaken vorhanden, insb. in den schwierigen SL, aber auch streckenweise selbst abzusichern

FA: C.Fleischmann, C.Hauser & M.Niedermann, 1954

Trad 240m, 8 Bockmattli
6a+ Bay Bay Switzerland

FA: M. Bassi & G. Peduzzi, 2012

Trad 30m Piansecco
6a+ Defender of the Crown
Trad 20m Göscheneralptal
6a+ C'est Mozart qu'on assassine
1 5c
2 5c
3 5a
4 5a
5 6a+
6 5c
7 6a
8 6a+
9 6a
10 5c
11 6a+

6a obl.

Gear: BD C3 0-2, BD C4 0.3-2, double up on 0.4, 0.75, and 1.

Descent: Rappel along the route. At belay 6 until 1 the rappel goes right of the rote. Last rappel again on route.

Équip.: Laurent Monnet & Michel Piola, 1994

Trad mixte 400m, 11, 11 Pays du St-Bernard
6a+ Hochzeitsweg
1 4c 30m
2 5b 30m
3 6a+ 45m
4 5c 45m
5 5b 40m
6 6a 35m
7 5b 35m

FA: B. Damm & T. Heymann, 1993

Trad 260m, 7 Alpstein
6a+ Jubiläumsriss Trad Schlossberg
6a+ via Vecchia
1 6a+
2 6a+
3 6a

Camalot 0.3-5

Trad 54m, 3 Lavorgo
6a+ Pancake

FA: M. Bassi & G. Peduzzi, 2012

Trad 30m Piansecco
6a+ Aprilscherz Trad 20m Ellhorn - Fläscherberg
6a+ Tajabone
1 5c
2 5c
3 5c
4 5c
5 6a+
6 5c+
7 5c

5c obl.

Gear: Set of cams (sizes BD C4 0.3 - 2) and optionally nuts

Descent: Rappel the route.

Équip.: David Deplazes & Walter Josi, 2002

Trad mixte 250m, 7, 25 Pays du St-Bernard
6a+ Direkte Südwand
1 5c
2 4b
3 4b
4 5b
5 5c+
6 6a+
7 5c
8 6a
9 4b

FA: H. Knechtle & W. Knechtle, 1965

Trad mixte 8, 10 Alpstein
6a+ Goldmarie
1 5c
2 6a
3 6a+
4 6a
5 6a
6 6a
7 5b

Slab, crack, corner climbing. Belays are bolted, bring trad gear up to gold Camalot.

FA: Jurg von Kanel, 1991

Trad 260m, 7 Winterstock Turm I
6a+ Filter Tilter Trad Jungfrau Region
6 Zervreilahorn (traverse) Trad 2900m Zervreilahorn
6a+ Westkante
1 5a
2 5a
3 3a
4 6a+

from lowest point of western corner, 2. pitch slightly left around the corner, 3rd pitch right towards big ledge, crack to summit

Trad 120m, 4 Kleines Kamel
6a+ Krampfader
1 6a+ 30m
2 5b+ 40m
3 5c+ 15m
4 6a+ 35m
5 6a 35m

Route grösstenteils clean, Stände mit Bohrhaken zum abseilen eingerichtet.

FA: E. Schönbächler & T. Müller, 1983

Trad 160m, 5 Chli Bielenhorn
6a+ Quasi Centro
1 6a+
2 5c
3 6a

FA: M. Bassi & G. Peduzzi, 2012

Trad 110m, 3 Piansecco
6a+ Wenn der Vater mit dem Sohn
1 4a 35m
2 5b+ 45m
3 6a+ 40m
4 5b 35m
5 5b 45m
6 4a 50m
Trad 250m, 6 Länta
6a+ ...no hay de que
1 5c 35m
2 6a+ 20m
3 6a 50m
4 6a+ 50m
5 6a+ 35m
6 6a 50m
Trad 240m, 6 Länta
6a+ Tippel Tappel
1 5c 40m
2 6a 40m
3 5c+ 45m
4 4c 35m
5 6a+ 40m
6 5a 35m
7 5c 40m
8 6a 45m

Westlichste Route in der Südwand

FA: Christian Schlegel & Fredy Tischauser, 1985

Trad 320m, 8 Churfirsten
6a+ Südpfeiler

topo in German: http://topoguide.de/Topo_Gandschijn.pdf

FA: Heinz Bächli & A. Horrisberger, 1960

Trad 300m, 8 Gandschijen
6a+ Schattenspiel
1 6a 20m
2 6a 35m
3 6a+ 25m

FA: C. Bardill, P. Donatsch & V. Eggenberger, 1986

Trad mixte 80m, 3, 1 Schijenzan
6a+ Scacco Matto

FA: M. Bassi & G. Peduzzi, 2012

Trad 30m Piansecco
6a+ Scharfer Schlitz
Trad 80m, 2 Alpstein
6a+ Cliff Crack

clean top

Trad mixte 35m, 4 Göscheneralptal
6a+ Can Macu
1 6a+ 20m
2 5c+ 30m
Trad 50m, 2 Länta
{UIAA} 7- Neue Süd
1 3+ 40m
2 7- 25m
3 5+ 35m
4 7- 30m
5 6- 30m
6 5+ 17m
7 7- 25m
8 6+ 35m
9 6 15m
10 6- 30m
11 6+ 35m
12 3+ 40m

Topo von stefs-bergsport.ch

FA: Paul Etter & Thomas Zimmermann, 1982

Trad 360m, 12 Churfirsten
6a+ Trio
1 5b 45m
2 5b 30m
3 5b 20m
4 5b 20m
5 6a+ 30m
6 5b 25m
Trad mixte 170m, 6, 24 Alpstein
6a+ Sciallo Gió
1 5c
2 6a+
3 5b+

FA: M. Bassi & G. Peduzzi, 2012

Trad 110m, 3 Piansecco
6a+ Direkte Ostwand

Nuts, Friends

Trad mixte 5, 21 Alpstein
6a+ Cana del gitano
1 6a+ 40m
2 5c 50m
3 6a+ 50m
4 5a 50m
Trad 190m, 4 Länta
6a+ Nordwand

FA: H. Frommenwiler, E. Haltiner & E. Hörler, 1953

Équip.: 1997

Trad mixte 250m, 7, 12 Alpstein
6a+ Transit
1 5b 45m
2 3a 35m
3 6a+ 20m
4 6a 35m
5 4c 20m
6 4b 25m
Trad mixte 180m, 6, 9 Alpstein
6a+ A2 Unverhofft kommt oft

Nuts, Friends and maybe a ladder.

Trad mixte 7, 11 Alpstein
6a+ Arriba
1 5c+ 50m
2 6a+ 50m
3 5b 50m
4 5a 50m
5 5c+ 50m
6 3b 50m
7 2b 40m
Trad 340m, 7 Länta
6a+ Westpfeiler Hinteres Zwölfihorn
1 5c 50m
2 4c 50m
3 5a 50m
4 5c+ 50m
5 2a 50m
6 4b 50m
7 6a+ 45m
8 5c+ 35m
9 5b+ 35m
10 5b 45m
11 4b 35m

FA: Rolf Bäbler & Dominik Ganterer, 20 Août 2020

Trad mixte 500m, 11, 21 Zwölfihorn
6a+ Pfusbäggli
1 6a+ 30m
2 5b 15m
Trad mixte 45m, 2, 11 Alpstein
6a+ SE-Wand
1 4c
2 6a+
3 6a+
4 5b
5 6a+
6 6a
Trad mixte 170m, 6, 10 Berglichopf
6a+ Baustopp
1 3a 40m
2 6a+ 25m
3 5a 35m
4 6a+ 45m
5 6a 30m
6 6a+ 20m
7 5c+ 45m
8 5c 30m
9 6a 40m
10 5c 30m

FA: Georg Furger, Richard Ott & Martin Wiesmann, 1987

Trad 340m, 10 Churfirsten
6a+ Händ Schämm

final face to original anchors with two bolts or clean to anchors to the right

Trad 25m Medji
6a+ Verborgene
1 6a+
2 6a
3 6a+
4 6a+
5 5c
Trad mixte 200m, 5, 10 Berglichopf
6a+ Stockzahn
1 6a+ 35m
2 6a 35m
3 5c 30m
4 4a 45m
5 45m
6 5c 40m
7 4a 15m
8 1 35m
9 4a
Trad 280m, 8 Churfirsten
6 Rechte Ostwand
1 6a 30m
2 6 25m
3 5b 25m
4 3b 25m
Trad mixte 110m, 4, 4 Alpstein
6a+ Bluemlipfad
1 5c
2 5a
3 5b
4 6a+
5 5c+
6 6a

6a obl

Trad mixte 180m, 6, 1 Lütschinentäler
6a+ Genius
1 5c
2 5c
3 6a
4 5c+
5 5b
6 6a+
7 5c
8 5c
9 5c
10 6a
11 6a+
12 5c+

Cams und Keile werden benötigt.

Entr.: 2007

Trad mixte 550m, 13, 10 Fieschertal
6a+ Plattentrip (neuer Ausstieg)
1 6a 45m
2 6a+ 30m
3 5a 20m
4 5c+ 45m
5 5b 40m

Kamin (alter Ausstieg) kaum lohnend.

Trad 180m, 6 Churfirsten
6a+ Mungge
1 6a+ 35m
2 6a+ 35m

5c+ obl.

Trad mixte 70m, 2, 10 Lütschinentäler
6a+ Schweizerpfeiler

FA: M. Niedermann & W. Fleischmann, 1954

Trad 430m, 12 Drusentürme Süd
6a+ Klemmkeilvariante Trad 25m Medji
6a+ Bella Donna

Komplett Clean außer Stände (Irnigerplatten) Erste Seillänge genialer Kamin. Topo: http://m.bergsucht.ch/products/chli-bielenhorn-belladonna-6a/

Trad 160m, 4 Chli Bielenhorn
6a+ Baur-Pfeiler

FA: G. Baur & O. Sittel, 1966

Trad 400m, 10 Drusentürme Süd
6a+ Cline Psychetest Trad Grimsel
6a+ Bolt/Eberle
Trad mixte 200m, 6, 10 Alpstein
6a+ Südwestriss
1 2a 50m
2 3b 50m
3 6a+ 35m
4 6a 25m
5 6a 35m
6 1 30m
7 4c 50m
8 4a 35m
Trad 310m, 8 Churfirsten
6a+ 5.10

1x 0-3, Micronuts

Trad 20m Chli Bielenhorn
6a+ Pfeilerrisse
1 6a
2 5c+
3 5c+
4 5b
5 6a+

3rd pitch bolted. Belay bolted.

Trad 5 Alpstein
6a+ Südwestwand
1 6a 15m
2 6a 25m
3 6a 50m
4 1 35m
5 5c 50m
6 5c 30m
7 5c 35m
8 5c+ 25m
9 5c 30m
10 4a 70m
11 6a+ 30m
12 2a 60m
Trad 460m, 12 Churfirsten
6a+ Cobra Borel Trad Sotaregn
6a+ Et si le soleil ne revenait pas
1 5b
2 5c
3 5c
4 6a+

Set of stoppers and Friends 0.3 à 0.75

FA: Denis Chèvre & Joseph Morelli, 1996

Trad 120m, 4 Pays du St-Bernard
6a+ Miles & More

1x 0-3, Micronuts

Trad 20m Chli Bielenhorn
6a+ Linke Südwand
1 6a+
2 5c
3 6a+
4 4b

Nuts, Friends 1-4 and slings.

Trad 4 Alpstein
6a+ KCC Führe
1 5b 30m
2 6a+ 50m
3 6a 35m
4 5c 40m
5 6a 45m
6 5c+ 45m
7 5c+ 40m
8 5a 20m
9 1 30m
10 5a 40m
11 5c+ 35m
12 4a 45m
13 5a 25m
Trad 480m, 12 Churfirsten
6a+ Classic Line Trad Thunersee
6a+ Peschewe

1x 0.1-2

Trad 20m Chli Bielenhorn
6a+ Heller Morgen
1 5a
2 5c+
3 6a+

Nuts and Friends 2-4

Trad 3 Alpstein

Affichage de 1 - 100 sur 2,200 voies.

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