Ascensions dans Taos

Seemed a lot harder than 5.9. Had to do some aid to get up it.

Don't bother. . .unless you like to get beat up a bit in an offwidth.

5.9 at crux only.

Good, but over too soon.

Practiced here after I could not quite lead the crux on Pony Express.

Possible gear placements render it PG-13.

Ended up working on our favorites in the area

This is always a good warm up lead for me after no climbing for a while. A little cool at the start; but it warmed up nicely.

climbed it with screwed up ankle, so Fritz gave me a little tension over crux. Taking a week off to heal.

Good climb, but messed up my ankle on it.

This wasn't my first lead up this route but it was clean.

We did it as two pitches. Fritz did the first; I did the second, which had a nice airy feel.

Fritz found this route, but I'm sure someone has climbed it before us. The 5.10 part is only about 2 moves at the bottom. the rest is easier.

Got up it twice. Yay.

More fun than it used to be.

Top roped as 5.10a, by taking a variation bypassing the 5.11 section

Only about 10' of the climb is 5.8. Climbed with Fritz.

I had a bit of trouble in the crux zone, where the left wall and the right face roll into a crack. Done w/Fritz leading.

Not the best warmup! Did it because it had a leaver biner and didn't look too hard from the ground... that'll learn me

Great climbing! Not as sustained as Techtonics next door but just as good.

Guidebook says R but didn't seem too bad. Super good and sustained! A real winner.

First time up it started raining, climbed back down, waited 'till it dried, then finished climb.

Some of rock feels as if it has little ball bearings on it.

Repeated climb varying route. Variations interesting too.

Both times I climbed it I was off a bit to the left of the bolts, making the face climb more intense. Someday I will follow the bolts.

Tough 5.9 overhang, Then I took a mostly unremitting 5.7+/5.8 face somewhat left of the actual(easier)route.

Warm day, but we climbed on the north side of Mosaic. Doh! It was kinda cold, guess why they call it summer dreams. Nice climb 5.7+ friction to crack to boilerplate. A couple tricams between 1.5 and 4.0 made protecting the climb easy.

Almost all of the climb is offsize. Requires Number 5 and 6 Camalots to protect. We don't have any that big, so we had to toprope it. Bypassed the crux on 5.8 friction.

Route zigs considerably to arete on the right. That was where Ed's mind was lost.

Hard enough to be interisting. Do-able enough to be fun. Slips past the toughest cruci on Ground Up (10 b/c).

Route we took to chains for Ground Up and How Ed Lost His Mind.

Nice friction pitch with some runout

Mostly friction with some runout. Weather, perfect.

Felt good.

I love this route. Did it 3 times. Good for making your balance better. Somewhat sustained.