Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Falaise | Qualité | Date | |||
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7+ | ★★★ Den Siste Sommeren - avec Alexander | 130m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 23 Juin 2021 | |||
Seemed like the appropriate time to finally tick this. Super nice crack climbing. Pitch 2 is mega with a couple of really cool boulder problems. Protects well. Carried a 0.2 & triples in 0.3-0.4 but didn´t place them.
Standard Lofoten rack works fine.
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7 A0 7+ | ★★★ Thanatos - avec Sara | 220m | Tromsø | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 28 Août 2019 | |||
Wow! The rumours are true, this is an outrageous line! Too many cookies for me this summer to send the enduro pitch without pulling on gear
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7+ | ★★★ One hundred years later - avec Sofie | 600m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 1 Juin 2021 | |||
Sustained, varied climbing with just the right amount of runouts to keep things safe but spicy. The setting is out of this world. One of the very best I´ve climbed in Norway.
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7 | ★★★ Skyvandraren - avec Fanny, Ada | Salten | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 7 Août 2021 | ||||
7 R - X | ★★★ Storpillaren - avec Ada, Ingrid V | 620m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 15 Août 2021 | |||
It was hard. Suggested rack was a 0.1 micro cam, doubles in black totem to #3 plus a #4. Could get away with less, but was happy to have them all.
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5.10a C0 5.11b | ★★ Aid Route | 55m, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ★★ Excellent | Ven 4 Sept 2015 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Aid Route - avec Trent Quesnel | 55m, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ★★ Excellent | Jeu 1 Oct. 2015 | |||
Got it free!
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7 | ★★★ Vestpillaren original avslutning (Original avslutning) - avec Rune | 160m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 11 Juin 2019 | |||
The leaning groove pitch would be a crag classic anywhere in the world. Engaging stemming with all of Presten below your feet. Epic!!
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7 7 R | ★★★ Korstoget - avec Fanny, Ingrid V | 390m, 3 | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Mar 23 Juil 2019 | |||
Some great climbing with one of Presten´s best pitches down low (P3). The runout pitches arn´t so bad. After the 6+ (P7), quality drops off quickly. Because of this, it´s quite common to traverse at Storhylla & finish up other lines
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7 ~7- | ★★★ Dosethrisset - avec Fanny | 15m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Jeu 5 Sept 2019 | |||
7 | ★★★ Vårkåt - avec Fanny, Kjetil | 130m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 22 Sept 2019 | |||
Doesn´t get much better than this. Extra .3-.5 nice & #3 useful for pitches 2/3
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7 | ★★★ Elvis - avec Fanny | 40m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 26 Sept 2019 | |||
Sustained and balancy climbing. Bring extra small cams & micro wires.
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7 | FA ★★★ Running for Teo - avec Vegard With Stennes | 130m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Mer 2 Oct. 2019 | |||
7 | ★★★ Snickar glädje - avec Karl Olof Hallberg | 15m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 27 Août 2020 | |||
With a pre-placed piece. Great route
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7 | ★★ Førstereisgutten - avec Kjetil | 95m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Dim 4 Oct. 2020 | |||
Nice climbing. The crux protects well with small wires (or black totem). A great option for busy days at Gandalf
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7 | FA ★★★ Joika Ekspressen - avec Rune | 400m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 12 Juin 2019 | |||
7 | ★★ Lay-bye Layback - avec Sofie | 15m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Mar 25 Mai 2021 | |||
Climbs nicer than it looks.
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7 | ★★★ Ninjarisset - avec Sara S | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Mar 28 Juin 2022 | ||||
6 |
★★★ Korstoget
- avec
Andrea O
1
6
35
2
5
40
3
6
40
| 120m, 3 | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Ven 7 Juil 2023 | |||
Korstoget into Vestpillaren
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7- ~6+ | ★★★ Tapir - avec Fanny | 20m, 1 | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Sam 15 Juin 2019 | |||
7-/7 Difficile | ★★★ Djupfjord sprickan - avec Fanny | 20m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 4 Juil 2019 | |||
An absolute classic and the best line on the South Face. Rack is doubles from 0.4 to #2 plus a 3 & 4 for the OW finish
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7- | FA ★★★ Nordvestpassasjen - avec Stian Bruvoll | 370m, 3 | Ofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 10 Août 2019 | |||
Gradually steepening handcrack for 100m plus leads to 2 distinctive crux pitches. #4 & #5 handy.
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7- | ★★★ Housewives - avec Lo | 30m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Jeu 30 Avr 2020 | |||
My favourite finger crack in Lofoten. Sustained & full value for the grade. Couple of extra finger sized pieces nice.
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7- | ★★★ Jediriddarane kjem attende - avec Fanny, Ada | 290m | Salten | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 5 Août 2021 | |||
7- | ★★★ Granitbiten - avec Kjetil | 25m | Bohuslän | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 23 Avr 2022 | |||
Can’t think of a better finger crack at the grade. Beautiful climbing
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7- | ★★★ Eldfågeln - avec Sofie | 22m | Bohuslän | ★★★ Super classique | Jeu 12 Mai 2022 | |||
Worth the approach. Take plenty of micro nuts.
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7- | ★★★ Melange - avec Sofie | 18m | Bohuslän | ★★★ Super classique | Ven 13 Mai 2022 | |||
7- ~6- | ★★ The King Has Spoken - avec Pat | 600m | Lofoten | ★ Bon | Mer 26 Juil 2023 | |||
Rockfax topo & description were good. Thought maybe bit nicer than Celebrian but definitely no classic. Perhaps something was lost in translation for German to Norwegian grades. Taking 3 full grades off each pitch seemed about right
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7- A0 | FA ★ Joika Raiders - avec Christoffer Martinsen | Lofoten | ★ Bon | Lun 31 Juil 2023 | ||||
21 | ★★★ Sundance Crack - avec Trent Quesnel | 12m | Avon Valley National Park | ★★★ Classique | Ven 24 Juil 2015 | |||
The only good crack in Perth?
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21 | ★★★ Stainless Steel - avec Steve | 30m, 3 | Wilyabrup | ★★★ Classique | Mer 14 Déc 2016 | |||
Headpoint then lead. Grateful to be learning new tricks from the old master
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7- | ★★★ Pan - avec Vegard With Stennes | 130m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Lun 10 Sept 2018 | |||
Really nice climbing all the way to the top
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7- | ★★★ Klokkeren - avec Rune | 150m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Mar 11 Juin 2019 | |||
7- ~6+ | ★★★ Fire forsøk - avec Sofie | 80m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Lun 17 Mai 2021 | |||
The crag classic with P1/2 linked? So goood!
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7- | ★★ Bingekos - avec Fanny | 120m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Mer 25 Sept 2019 | |||
Great climb with 4 varied pitches. The OW (P2) might just be the crux thou it protects well with a standard rack via a broken seem to the left for all but the last 4/5m (where a tipped #6 fits & is nice to have).
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7- | ★★ Ole Johnny tribute - avec Vegard | 80m | Lofoten | ★ Bon | Mar 1 Oct. 2019 | |||
7- | ★ Running for Rasmus - avec Kjetil, Fanny | 85m | Lofoten | Pourrie | Dim 19 Avr 2020 | |||
Tried to ignore chronic medial epicondylitis from all the salmon murdering. Didn´t go well. Dragged up by my ropeguns (it´s probably a nice route)
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6b+ | ★★★ Motorhead - avec Eric, Sara M | 480m | Grimsel | ★★ Excellent | Lun 13 Juin 2022 | |||
The crack systems are quite flared so there’s not much jamming to be had. Mostly friction slab & laybacking. Very chill & fun but felt a bit hyped. 1hr 30 to walk-in, 4hr30 on route.
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6b+ | ★★★ Unkown West face corner & cracks - avec Kjetil | 400m | Karavshin | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 18 Août 2022 | |||
Good rock, great climbing. Shame about all the bolts
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6b+ | ★★★ The missing mountain - avec Fanny, Kjetil | 600m | Karavshin | ★★★ Super classique | Jeu 4 Août 2022 | |||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret - avec Fanny | 20m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Lun 27 Mai 2019 | |||
6+ | ★★★ Englevinger - avec Sofie | 85m, 1 | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 25 Mai 2021 | |||
There won´t be a line for this one but it´s 3 varied & high quality pitches. Deserves it´s Top50 guidebook tag
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6+ | ★★ Mjölkmustasch - avec Fanny | Lofoten | ★ Bon | Ven 20 Sept 2019 | ||||
6+ | ★★ Ingen sommerferie - avec Fanny | 72m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Jeu 20 Août 2020 | |||
6+ | ★★★ Alexis - avec Fanny | 220m | Tromsø | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 28 Juil 2021 | |||
Pleasantly epic. Took extra 0.4-#1, which was nice.
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6+ | ★★★ Silhuetten - avec Fanny | 230m | Tromsø | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 28 Juil 2021 | |||
Finished up Silhuetten
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6+ | ★★ Lassaley - avec Sofie | 25m | Bohuslän | ★★ Excellent | Mer 11 Mai 2022 | |||
Nice warm up
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6+ | ★★ Landstrykere - avec Sigve | 140m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Lun 3 Juin 2019 | |||
6+ | ★ Mordar Anders - avec Sigve | Lofoten | ★ Bon | Lun 3 Juin 2019 | ||||
6+ | ★★ Variasjon til en variasjon - avec Rune | 45m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Mar 11 Juin 2019 | |||
6+ A0 6+ A0 | ★★ Migan pillaren - avec Fanny, Kjetil | 350m | Lofoten | ★ Bon | Mer 10 Juil 2019 | |||
Some good pitches mixed in with a lot of average climbing. Approach is ok, descent is horrendous (walked off. The abseil line would be much nicer but fixed gear/bolts need replacing).
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6+ | Det svarte beltet - avec Monica, Gabriel | 120m | Tromsø | Dans la moyenne | Mer 5 Sept 2018 | |||
6+ | ★★★ Månedans - avec Vegard With Stennes | 95m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 1 Oct. 2019 | |||
Så fin! Linked 1/2. P3 is beautiful, sustained finger jamming in a corner before a burly mantle (or not, I was pumped out of my brain by then) followed by exciting slab to the top. Sandbagged at the grade by Lofoten standards. Recommended!
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6+ | ★★ Vikingjenta - avec Kjetil | 75m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Mar 8 Oct. 2019 | |||
Nice varied climbing. The initial lower block sounds loose & vibrates. Use caution/climb at your own risk for this section.
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6+ | ★★ Trollmannens uløselige mysterium - avec Kjetil | 20m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Sam 25 Avr 2020 | |||
#4 for the start & #5 finish works ok
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6+ | ★★ The Next Best Thing - avec Fanny, Karl Olof Hallberg | 380m | Lofoten | ★ Bon | Lun 13 Juil 2020 | |||
Most people I´ve chatted with seem to enjoy this route. I thought it was total shit. I guess some sections of the lower pitches are nice?
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6+ | ★★★ Vestveggen - avec Fanny, Karl Olof Hallberg | 350m | Ofoten | ★★★ Classique | Mar 28 Juil 2020 | |||
Quality climbing, outrageous setting..much less walking than the other routes. What´s not to like?
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6+ Facile | ★★★ Blod eller gull - avec Vegard With Stennes | 95m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Mar 25 Août 2020 | |||
A dihedral, roof, OW & some face climbing. Topo says 6+, description says 6 in the guidebook. Either way, crux is short & well protected & there´s lots of nice movement on this one.
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6+ | ★★★ Gandalf original avslutning - avec Fanny | 25m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Sam 21 Sept 2019 | |||
6+ | ★★★ Vågarisset - avec Alexander | 70m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 9 Juin 2021 | |||
Lives up to the hype. Heavy. Two 4s & 5s plus a sling is your rack for P2. Lower-off is now a nest of cord & tatt, awkwardly placed high on a flake. The well positioned bolts are missing hangers :((
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6+ | ★★ Syltetøying - avec Fanny, Ada | Salten | ★★ Excellent | Ven 6 Août 2021 | ||||
20 | ★★★ Airbourne - avec The Condawg | 50m, 5 | Mt Blackwood Summit | ★★ Excellent | Ven 23 Fév 2024 | |||
6b | ★★★ Westgrat - avec Eric | 1600m | Salbit | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 18 Juin 2022 | |||
Simul climbed till the 5th tower then ran out of gas & pitched out. Awesome ridge traverse. ~10 hours
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6 | ★★★ Pizzatyven - avec Michael Oldroyd | 100m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Mar 21 Août 2018 | |||
6 | ★ Pianisten - avec Hilde | 110m | Lofoten | ★ Bon | Ven 5 Juil 2019 | |||
6 | ★★ 3-stjerners karbonpudding - avec Fanny, Ada | 120m | Salten | ★★ Excellent | Ven 6 Août 2021 | |||
6 | ★★★ Sydpilaren - avec Christopher, Niels | 1100m | Åndalsnes Område | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 29 Sept 2021 | |||
16t bil til bil
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5.10b | ★★ Guiding Light - avec Trent Quesnel, John | 24m | Yosemite National Park | ★★★ Classique | Ven 9 Oct. 2015 | |||
Found the thin section up top spicy for the grade. Maybe 10b/c?
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19 | ★★ Fist In The Face - avec Kav | 12m | Kalamunda National Park | ★ Bon | Mer 4 Mai 2016 | |||
19 | ★★★ Fishing With Dynamite - avec Kav | 24m, 6 | Wilyabrup | ★★ Excellent | Ven 2 Déc 2016 | |||
19 | ★★ Use No S.L.C.D.'s (Use No S.L.D.'s) - avec Steve | 20m, 1 | Wilyabrup | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 15 Déc 2016 | |||
Calling it classic for the tricam placement & ringlocks. Kind of scary too
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19 | ★ Freedom | 45m, 1 | Wungong Valley | Pas la peine | Dim 19 Nov. 2017 | |||
6 | ★★★ Gamle rev - avec Innika | 110m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 30 Juin 2022 | |||
6 | Sterk storm - avec Michael Oldroyd | Lofoten | Dans la moyenne | Lun 20 Août 2018 | ||||
6 ~6- | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen - avec Johanne Regine Gustavsen, Sam | 95m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Lun 20 Juil 2020 | |||
P2/P3 can be linked by stretching a 60m. Easier than the neighbouring Gamle rev (perhaps easiest 6 in Lofoten?)
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6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren - avec Michael Oldroyd, Clara, Romane | 480m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 28 Août 2018 | |||
Amazing route in a postcard setting
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6 | ★★★ Lundeklubben - avec Vegard With Stennes | 90m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Ven 13 Nov. 2020 | |||
This line is waaay hyped plus, roof/bulge pitch seeps & will more often than not, be the only wet section on the wall. Not even top 5 on the Festvåg cliffs
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6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren - avec Innika | 480m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 3 Juil 2022 | |||
Such a classic line. For parties wanting to move fast, it can safely be done in 7 pitches by simul-climbing to pitch 2 & then again to P5. From here, pitch out as in the guidebook to a nice ledge 10m above the top of slanting corner (just before the loose block and short wide section). 10/11 can then be linked with a 60m & careful rope management
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6 | ★★★ Gandalf and Rose | 100m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Jeu 25 Avr 2019 | |||
w/ the Line's
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6 | ★★★ Puffrisset - avec Fanny | 110m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Lun 27 Mai 2019 | |||
Pitch 2 is splitter, pitch 3 is runout N6 slab
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6 ~6+ | ★★★ Den siste viking - avec Fanny | 90m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Ven 26 Juil 2019 | |||
Would seem the Viking’s love a good sandbag
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6 | ★★★ Ypperstepresten - avec Vegard With Stennes | 220m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Ven 27 Sept 2019 | |||
Easy to link into 3 pitches with 60m rope (belay as close as possible to the roof on P1). Good rock & safe gear.
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6 | ★★ Johan Boyer - avec Kjetil | 75m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Mar 8 Oct. 2019 | |||
6 | FA ★★ At dawn, we ride - avec Vegard With Stennes, Charlie | 190m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Jeu 3 Oct. 2019 | |||
6 | ★★★ Vesteggen - avec Fanny, Karl Olof Hallberg | 260m | Ofoten | ★★ Excellent | Mar 28 Juil 2020 | |||
6 | ★ Straight Albatross - avec Fanny, Kjetil | 90m | Lofoten | ★ Bon | Mer 14 Juil 2021 | |||
6 | ★★ Yamamoto - avec Stian Bruvoll | 30m | Bohuslän | ★★★ Classique | Dim 17 Oct. 2021 | |||
6 ~6- | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen - avec Vegard With Stennes | 95m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Mer 3 Nov. 2021 | |||
6 | ★★★ Gamle rev - avec Vegard With Stennes | 110m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Mer 3 Nov. 2021 | |||
Det siste Gandalf klatretur. Kommer til å savne ikke ha dette i bakgården
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6 | ★★★ En liten bit granit - avec Kjetil | 15m | Bohuslän | ★★★ Classique | Sam 23 Avr 2022 | |||
6 | ★★ Machete - avec Kjetil | 15m | Bohuslän | ★★ Excellent | Sam 30 Avr 2022 | |||
6 | ★★ Ormbiten - avec Synnøve | 30m | Bohuslän | ★ Bon | Lun 2 Mai 2022 | |||
19 ~21 | ★★★ Ramadan - avec Henry | 80m | Ben Lomond | ★★★ Classique | Lun 1 Jan 2024 | |||
19 | ★★★ Who Among Them - avec The Condawg | 35m | Mt Blackwood Summit | ★★★ Super classique | Ven 23 Fév 2024 | |||
5.10a 5.10 | ★★★ Warm-up Handcrack - avec Kav | 32m | Indian Creek Canyon | ★★★ Classique | Lun 14 Sept 2015 | |||
19 18 | ★★★ One For The Road | 18m | Wilyabrup | ★ Bon | Lun 2 Mars 2015 | |||
18 | ★★★ The Climb - avec Kav | 23m | West Cape Howe | ★★★ Classique | Sam 25 Avr 2015 | |||
18 | ★ Eliminator | 15m | Avon Valley National Park | Dans la moyenne | Sam 4 Juil 2015 | |||
18 | ★★ Bone Machine | 14m, 3 | Avon Valley National Park | ★ Bon | Sam 25 Juil 2015 | |||
18 | ★★ Boulder Dash - avec Trent Quesnel | 16m | Statham's Quarry | Pas la peine | Jeu 16 Juil 2015 | |||
The moment I gave up on quarry trad. What a pile of choss
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