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A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed.

1. 15m (11) Up the blocky corner to big boulder choke.

2. 25m (11) Up wide chimney using face to the anchor (30m).

Climb into the cave then up around to the right. Then follow the ringbolts to the top. First bolt is quite high so be careful.

1. 18m (11) Climb the front of the pipe past smooth bulge to small ledge. This cramped belay is usually avoided.

2. 15m (11) Continue up to top bulge which is easiest on right. Downclimb far side of pinnacle into Organ Pipes Gully to get off.

Wonderful climbing up the right side of the Dunes Buttress, with virtually every pitch offering something of interest.

1. 35m (10) Up surprisingly tricky left facing flake/corner (consider starting up Dunes instead if this might give you grief). Continue up slabs above and belay below chimney around the corner.

2. 40m (9) Easily up chimney. Step across the void from top of chimney onto the face proper and continue up to large ledge (the Oasis).

3. 15m (1) Crawl R through hole, belay beneath chockstone in chimney on the other side.

4. 40m (9) Pull up onto the chockstone with difficulty. Follow the deep crackline above to the top (or for a slightly easier finish trend a bit left for the last bit).

Named after the key that has "two sharp pitches". It is possible to escape from the first belay through the narrow cleft to the left between Piccolo Pipe and D Major Pipe.

Start below the major line capped by a huge chockstone on the right wall of the D Major pipe.

1. 25m (10) Bridge up slick groove splitting bottom half of the buttress and under the boulder. It's a good idea to belay on top of the boulder.

2. 25m (10) From top of the boulder climb steep juggy buttress to chimney finish. An alternative to this pitch is to climb the chimney to the left. This is very narrow.

Start on the L side of the wall, beneath the dominant wide L-facing corner crack (or 2m L of it if you want an easier start). Up the line, tackling the final bulge whenever you're ready.

Start 10m L of Minstrel Pinnacle, at the easy crack just L of a perched block. Can be lead in one pitch at the same grade if you leave the crack and head diagonally R about 8m below the top of p1. However this increases the risk of a grounder on rope stretch when the second is on the crux start.

1. 25m (11) A tough start gains the deep crack, which is followed to a ledge.

2. 15m (8) Wander R along the ledge for a few metres to the next line, and head up this to the Pillars.

Up the steep pillar to a bolt, then traverse left (crux), and finish up the easier climbing above.

Start: At the pillar on the right side of the north face.

Start as for Horn Piece on the Didgeridoo Pipe. Veers left from Horn Piece near the top, avoiding the bulging headwall. This climb originally started up a short crack up on the right side of the pipe but this is not much fun. Very sustained at the grade.

The first three pitches in particular offer superb climbing at the grade, while the final pitches provide an opportunity to explore those high balconies dominating the upper reaches of the cliff. The first two pitches are often combined.

While the first part of the climb only spends a small amount of time in the chimney, some parties have mistakenly climbed the chimney in its entirety. This is not a club that you should aspire to join.

Despite its enjoyable nature, there have been a number of serious injuries and a death on this climb. Here the start of the fourth pitch has been revised to reduce the danger of a long fall to the belay ledge.

1. 20m (10) Up chimney past a thrutchy section and belay out on the left arete. Many parties climb the rib left of the chimney instead (as per P1 of Monkey Poo), this is harder and less-well protected.

2. 20m (10) Climb wall past interesting move at 5 metres and continue to ledge on left. Some parties run the first two pitches together.

3. 35m (10) Delicately up smooth, sustained wall (there's a corner on the left and an unappetising chimney on the right). Make sure to place protection low down here as more than one good climber has smashed their ankles on the ledge after an unexpected slip. Continue up to ledge on right (old peg runner). Up arete to eventually meet chimney. Cross chimney and up 4 metres to big ledge.

4. 38m (8) The original start to this pitch, going up diagonally right from the belay was very poorly protected. Traverse 10 metres right along the ledge to a thin crack. Go up to meet the diagonal line then climb diagonally right just below the junction of grey and red rock.

5. 12m (9) Traverse right and climb a short, steep wall to a balcony belay.

6. 25m (8) Walk left along balcony and climb up second weakness.

7. 20m (7) Traverse spectacularly left to ledge, then scramble off

Slabby start right of Minimus then the corner-crack to the top.

The easiest route to the summit of Bluff Major is pure class, providing delicate groove climbing in a grand position.

Originally graded 6 via the ordinary chimney, and not highly rated. Now that the loose bits are gone, the start has been straightened out up the face off the boulder, and a lower-off has been added, this is one of the best easy grade routes in this part of Araps, with a wide variety of climbing.

Start: Start off the top of the big boulder on the ledge.

A popular incut slab. It is not recommended that you lead this route if only climbing grade 11, however do not top-rope directly through the anchor bolts. These anchors are getting noticeably worn through, as a result of such improper top-rope setups.

Start lower down, pull onto the wall and towards the right side of the face. Up the eroded front-face arete to the 1st bolt. On the last move to the LO's look for the right-hand under bolder hold.

SSGICs to top-out with 2 bolt belay.

Narrow rib at the L end of the lower cliff. Follow arete and climb L into a large crack and then continue R up the pinnacle to a DRB belay (25m rap into R gully).

A brilliant beginner's lead. Start at the obvious corner 3m R of EP. Up this line on excellent gear to the ledge. Rap chains are found here. Alternatively, you can keep going up the twin crack system at grade 15.

Inexplicably given 3 stars in previous guides.

Start 1m R of Consul's arete.

Up the R sloping crack then R up larger crack.

Start as for Revelations, Serpent, etc.

1. 26m (11) Climb steep right wall of cleft to large ledge.

2. 24m (11) Step up to smooth orange wall. Don't go straight up but step right and pull up steep arete. Up a few more metres then veer right and up right wall.

Blocky corner 3m left of TW. More popular as a rap line than a route, and probably rightly so.

Far superior to SPQR. Good jamming and interesting moves all the way up the nice corner.

The corner crack 1m R of 'Death Gate'.

Fantastic climbing. There is a variant start to the left at the painted initial "S" but the way described is better. Start below right-hand line up the sombre cleft, right of the initial "S".

1. 35m (11) Veer up left and climb orange corners, then left and up to tiny ledge. Step left then up steep, right-facing box-corner.

2. 8m (5) Either rap off (28 metres) or walk left along ledge and go up.

Another great outing up the front of the Pharos. Start 9 metres right of Hurricane Lamp Cracks at the foot of a deep crack.

1. 28m (6) Climb the buttress on the left to a good belay ledge.

2. 22m (10) Traverse 5 metres right, stepping across a wide crack, then follow the steep, clean line on the right to another good ledge.

3. 25m (10) Step left and climb the front of the buttress to gain the deep V-line on the left. Pass the spectacular roof on the left and up to the Tennis Court.

4. 43m (8) From the top of pedestal climb tricky weakness left of red overhang. Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap, then up to summit. This is as for the last 2 pitches of Spiral Staircase and may be split as for that climb.

On the left side of the arete. Plenty of bolts. Plenty of jugs. Good beginner lead climb.

Quite good. The abseil route comes down the first pitch so watch out for traffic and don't monopolise the bolt anchors if the area is busy. Start at a wide crack just left of the block leaning against the cliff.

1. 20m (11) Up crack and bulge then dicky moves past bolt to ledge and bolt anchors.

2. 40m (10) Steep groove on left then up wall, veering right-wards to finish.

Start behind jacaranda tree, 3m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. Marked "COD" (for 'Cloak Of Darkness').

Up ramp to high FH. Move on past 2 more FHs and run it out a little up to DBB shared with 'Mantlit'.

Short but good. An interesting chimney and jamming problem featuring great protection throughout. A tricky move to exit adds spice to life!

Start: Start at the right edge of the Pinnacle face below right-leaning flake/crack, about 10 metres right of 'Siren'.

1. 35m (8) Up to and over crack and up left line in wall to juggy ground. Continue up steep wall just left of arete to incut ledge looking out over 'Left Watchtower Face'.

2. 22m (9) Climb up just left of arete to big ledge (Siren's second belay) and continue to next ledge on left a couple of metres further up.

3. 23m (5) Easy ground to ledge below headwall.

4. 30m (10) Step right, then steeply up on good holds. Up, tending slightly left.

Start 1m L of 'Diagonal'. Marked "SH".

Now retrobolted as an easy beginner's lead. First bolt is easy to reach but high and move near the top is hard for the grade so more a lead for competent climbers learning to lead rather than outright beginners. 3 RBs to DBB.

One of Araps' earliest routes.

Start: Start beneath the front face (the one facing Dec Crag).

1. (6) Up the chimney to large ledge on the left

2. (11) Up the crack

The groove with snap-o-licious flakes and a tricky finish.

Start: 1m R of 'Working Class Hero'.

Start 2m L of 'Star Dust'. Marked "N".

Straight up past 3 RBs. New anchor over lip. Rebolted 2014.

Get here early for this one.

Start left of Kaboomba Brothers. Bouldery start to pleasant rambling. Lots of bolts. Stick clip the 2nd bolt if you’re at the grade.

Start 2 m R of 'Spooge In A Glove'. Climbs the L trending ramp to anchors (shared with 'Spooge In A Glove'). 3 RBs.

Start: Wall to the right of OE.

1. 9m (-) Wall to ledge and triple bolt belay

2. 40m (10) Left up wall, slight recess and nose to tree belay.

Start as for C.

1. 20m (11) Up C for 20m to the shelf.

2. 22m (11) R then through tricky overhang and onwards.

Short chimney then finish as for 'Stage Coach'.

Start: Just right of SC.

Takes the lovely right-facing corner on the righthand-side of 'Central Buttress' before joining 'The Eighth' on the final two pitches. Take a few long slings for thread runners.

1. 48m (11) Climb the corner to the top of 'Central Buttress'.

2. 25m (8) Up and right to crack (The Eighth) and straight up this to large ledge.

3. 20m (-) Walk to left end of ledge and up short tricky wall to righthand end of Flinders Lane (as for final pitch of The Eighth).

One of the best easy routes in the entire 'Grampians'. 'Fantastic' pro and steep buckety climbing.

Start: Start 5m L of TC, at the base of the chimney.

Start: 7m left of the chopped steps in the descent gully.

The obvious crack - good intro to jamming

Start below thin seam on the first bit of orange rock left of the gully, 8 metres right of the initial A marking the start of The Archbishop.

1. 27m (11) Hard, avoidable, start up seam and through small bulge at 5 metres to ledge. Veer left to right-facing corner. A tricky move into corner then up to ledge. Rap chains.

2. 15m (5) Juggy wall above.

1. 30m (10) Start up the slab, some of the protection is poor. Belay from a vertical crack with foliage and dead tree. Good stance behind the tree.

2. 40m (9) Keep going up, climb a small overlap and head up to the large vertical crack. Belay from below the large overlap.

3. 20m (10) From the belay pull up and over the overlap and follow the crack up. Belay options; either from a tree at the start of Traverse of the Gods or head up another 10m to a small ledge with trees.

4. 30m (6) Follow the cracks and to the top.

Up fist sized crack, trend left and up wide crack. Beginners sometimes bury themselves inside it.

Left hand route on the Kid's Slab just right of the arete.

The sustained dog-leg crack to a steep, juggy finish.

Another worthwhile easy climb that adds to the range of options for beginner leaders at this crag. 5 bolts to a DBB

Up the flake - bridge, layback, jamb - take your pick!

Start at the painted initial 'A'.

1. 27m (10) Follow crack to V-corner and bridge up this (placing gear in some loose blocks) to ledge.

2. 15m (5) Juggy wall.

A great, easy 135m multipitch route although pro can be pretty sparse on p2&3 and non-existant on p5. A good initiation to what to expect from Tibro multipitches. Can be done in three pitches with 60m rope.

Start: About 50m L of Candy Mountain at big corner/gully, behind a rock apron. Marked 'BO' (very faint).

★★ Black Orpheus 10 - "BO"

1. 30m (7) Very easily up gully on solid jugs and good pro to big ledge and trad belay.

2. 25m (10) Up rocky corner/slab (right of ledge) Then left to mount short wall (crux), onto slab & up this gully (R) with a couple of bushes offering protection to big ledge & bush belay.

   max dans ★★ Black Orpheus 10 - Crux of pitch 2

3. 25m (4) Climb up edgy slab in an exposed position with minimal protection until it curves back left & you reach a tree-lined ledge above. Scramble up L to the top of the ledge. Originally, the belay made use of the "Zombie Tree", however it is preferable that modern ascents make use of gear in groove about 5m above to establish a belay and protect this historic but weary flora from further abuse. You can choose to run pitch 2&3 together, beware that you may be out of earshot of your belayer. This pitch requires a cool head: exposed pitch & minimal pro!

4. 32m (10) Run-out start, then bridge up chimney (crux), which is better than it looks (very good gear), at top LH side of chimney, traverse L along the rising ledge and into corner, follow this up right over blocks to top of gully & crack & tree belay.

5. 23m (3) Up very easy blocky slab (no gear) to big tree in Cave 3. (Some choose to run pitch 4&5 together, on a 60m+ rope, be aware you WILL be out of earshot.) Finish up the 'Caves Route', or descend via rap station at mouth of Cave 1. Alternatively, you can climb (on belay) over to the chains on Zeitgeist & abseil down this to get back to the start of the route.

Start up Sexy Love Slot and then move R onto the slab passing 3 bolts to the chains.

Thin crack with lots of good holds and bomber gear!

A classic climb up a steep, exposed wall and slab on good rock. An excellent intro to climbing at the Warrumbungles. Can be climbed in two pitches.

Scramble up to below the red-brown wall in middle of W Face, between prominent buttress and Abseil Gully (10 m L of Abseil Gully). Start just left of the 'V'

1. 15m To prominent ledge.

2. 35m Up close to corner for 10m and then head diagonally right to belay on Tourist Traverse. Some parties stick to the corner cracks.

3. 30m Step left to avoid small overhang. Up, superb climbing with good pro. Belay on block to avoid severe rope drag.

4. 15m Easy slab.

Ruthless cleaning, trundling and bolting have brought this climb back to popular notice. A good effort all around.

It's a pity that the route hasn't been set up with a rap route as the last pitch is pretty poxy and then there's the walk-off.

Start below the first clean streak left of Pan Grove, above the clear-felled area.

1. 35m (8) Slabby seam then easy climbing to lovely thin crack. Follow crack then step right and up to stance.

2. 20m (11) 'Steep' off the belay and up to ledge. Move right and follow crack through overhang and up to good ledge.

3. 50m (10) Superb crack to a ledge and double bolt belay.

4. 15m (7) Manky wall to large ledge then short wall to next large ledge. Walk off right.

Start 5m right of the major corner/chimney feature and the obvious black slab. Climb the slab through a couple of overlaps to the anchors. A safe beginners lead.

Short buttress with undercut start

Really good beginner route.

Start: Start under the big chasm which separates 'Bard Buttress' and 'Tiger Wall'.

1. 30m (2) Easy slab to the start of the chimney.

2. 30m (11) The slippery chimney then head a bit left to belay (old pitons).

3. 30m (10) Exciting. Head up the steep groove on the L wall, move right (though not quite into the chimney) and continue up the L wall. Exciting moves lead around the L side of the giant chockstone. Belay above. (An inferior alternative is to return to the chimney from the belay).

4. 28m (10) Up the L wall, heading slightly left and finishing up the final moves of 'Bard'. (Again, sticking to the chimney is inferior, and involves plenty of loose rock and vegetation.)

Monster chasm

Up via the offwidth slot then finish as for 'Long Bow'.

Start: Start just R of 'Holdup Line'.

Companion route to Mesa. Start in chimney left of that route and follow the arete. Exit R to rap chain above Mesa.

Start 1m left of E. The start was previously described as "ungradeable" and the whole pitch is more like 15.

1. 8m (11) Crack to ledge with new DRBB directly above. Original route continues 5m up and right across grey slabs to R side of cave.

2. 21m (11) Corner to cave, left up to big cave. Traverse right (old BR) and up to ledge.

3. 21m (11) Left along ledge, up small black wall into gully filled with dead trees and dirt.

4. 23m (11) Up.

Good, but bears no similarity to the 'Buffalo' megaclassic!

Start: Start 2-3m R of OB.

1. 12m (10) The line to the ledge.

2. 12m (10) Continue up the line with some brittle rock.

Just left of the two 17s. Up to the first RB, on good jugs, crux is getting past this, then easy moves to the chains.

Disgusting leading up a crappy line to an even more grunty body chimney! Numerous holds and chock stones have fallen out of this route over the years, and the route has been reduced from one of class to that of complete infamy. Belay from MP chains.

To the right of the arete.

A popular beginners' climb. Start five metres left of Running Crack below a short, wide corner crack.

1. Up the corner crack and chimney to a huge ledge and tree belay.

2. Left over ledges then up the slanting corner. A tricky step right to a break, then the wide crack and corners lead easily to the top.

Up Great Pissing Ledges stopping below small roof then step right into 'Hope'.

Start left of small corner. Up over a small bulge and veer to the right. 2 RB to Lower Offs. (Can start on right and climb up to 2nd bolt, easier but less pro).

The arching grey buttress between The Flue and the grotto is an enjoyable easy route.

Start: Below the grey buttress at a tricky run-out slab.

Up the slab (poor pro) to the L edge of the grotto, then continue up the line above.

Pleasant climbing up good rock.

Start: Back down 5m L from BB amongst trees at fallen log. First climb on LH wall of the 'Slider' gully.

A pure old school trad classic.

Start: 6m right of MM at centre of big block below overlap.

1. Block, around overlap, up wall to ledge. Stroll left to big corner.

2. Up, just right of corner for adequate protection (including new FH next to mild steel heritage bolt and plate); middle below block for a few pieces; or right for not much. Double bolt and chain belay.

Rap or walk off right. P2 can be done by itself.

Start 2m R of Blackened Slab. Step up R on ledge then up to big ledge. Left to nose and up to shared lower-off. Set up for a practice belay in the middle off 2 rings.

Start 3m left of Little Miss Sunshine at the RB

Links in der Ostwand schrofige Schlucht, oben linksh., zu Sandband (Blockschlinge). Auf diesen 15m nach rechts (Blockschlinge + 4.AÖ). Kamin im Winkel bzw. dessen re. Kaminkante (PORZELLANKANTE) zu Abs. (links NR). Rechts schräge Kamine zu Abs. (1.R des KRIPPENER WEGES). Rechts seichte Rinne hoch, nach wenigen Metern Umstieg in rechte Rinne u. diese zu Verklüftung (rechts auf kl. Pfeiler Nachholöse). In der Kluft zur Schusterplakette u. Kamin absteigen. (Oberhalb des Kamingrunds Stand an Knotenschlingen. Nicht an der dünnwandigen SU!!) Rechts kurzen engen Kamin zum unteren Reitgrat, diesen bis zum zum Ende u. links überdachte Wandstufe zu gr. Abs. (Schlinge). Dahinter zu Kamin und linksgeneigte Rippe (oberer Reitgrat) z.G.

Ausführliche Wegbeschreibung. Topo.

Start at blunt arete with line of RBs about 10m L of 'Acumen'.

Fun, well-protected beginner lead. Climb up slabby L-tending arete past 7 RBs to DBB.

A slightly bold first pitch and an exhilirating finish.

Start: The face just left of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress is marked by the deep chasm of 'The Slot'. Start directly below this chasm.

1. 40m (9) Go up to bushes at 5 metres, step left and climb face just left of the gulch, delicate at first, until it eases to a good ledge.

2. 30m (5) Easy ground to below the orange overhangs.

3. 25m (10) Up to and under the overhang and traverse out left. Climb the overhang on large holds in an exposed position.

A classic of the chimney style and a must do if you're into that sort of thing. The dark chimney to the left of DWHP. A challenging lead for the novice climber. Despite reputation the climb offers good placements the whole way. Make sure to extend gear below large block (crux) at half height followed by a run out section if you don't have a #6 cam or big bro. 30 meters to top out.

Start below the large thin flake. (It feels really solid, but I wouldn't put pro under it, it is large and thin.) Follow the obvious large crack to 2 bolts for anchors.

Takes protection really easily -- a good route for a first trad lead.

Up the middle of the gently angled slab.

3 RB's to DBB.

Easy climbing up blocky ledges. Shares anchors with DITR.

"There's a place in France where the naked ladies dance, there's a hole in the wall where you put your..." Santa Claus is coming down this chimney to find out who's naughty or nice.... a modern classic or an aquired taste, there's something for everyone in Rod Boner's glory hole. Careful of loose rock at the top of the chimney, there is no where for your belayer to run if you dislodge one. The horrific glue drips in the back of the chimney are from an attempt to stabilise the chockstone at the top. Take care.

As for Climb A, but take a committing step out right into the next crack and then climb up.

Start at a small corner a bit up and to the right of Route B, follow the thin crack to a corner in the upper part of the cliff, then on to 2 bolts as anchors.

Easy sport climb on the slab a couple meters right of stage right.

Has a sign posted naming it and giving a grade of 5.8 -- but this climb is no harder than 5.5. (It is considerably easier than Phasers on Stun - 5.5.)

A large rock has fallen from midway up the route. The remaining rock is not secure and avoiding it bumps up the difficulty. Still not 5.8 though

The easy angled black slab. Take care of rock in upper section. 7 RB's to DBB.

Start 11m left of the 2nd Easy Way Down, where the obvious zig-zagging crack goes up the cliff. Climb up, generally angling left for the first half, then right, finishing at the large pine tree. Numerous variations are possible. (The flake of the name now rests in pieces at the bottom, courtesy of Gyula Pech, autumn 1985.) Anchors.

Start beneath the massive corner blasting up the start of the highest part of the wall.

Bivy options: There are a few decent spots around the base. Big Grassy (which is not flat by any means) and the small flattish ledge 8m below are the most luxurious bivvy options on the route. The fixed hangers at the end of pitch 6 and The Gledhill Bivvy at the end of pitch 8 offer waterproof spots for a portaledge. Gledhill and Big Grassy also have hammock anchors.

1. 25m (M2) Slime Corner. Two bolts off the deck (Deck potential, often stick-clipped) to L-trending slab with slime-filled corner (might have to dig out some placements!) then up the crack. To DBB on a flake. It's possible to link 1 and 2.

2. 35m (M4) Big Corner part 1. Sustained aiding on thin pin scars up the corner to a hanging belay on the R wall. If you're struggling, imagine freeing it!

3. 40m (M4) Big Corner part 2. More pin scars up the same corner, using a mixture of thin and fixed gear. Swing left to small tree and ledge to trad belay in corner on the left. Typically linked with pitch 4 (better for hauling) by back-cleaning most of pitch 4, otherwise rope drag will be ludicrous.

4. 8m (10) Corner hand crack and tricky flop onto Big Grassy. Alternatively, finish pitch 3 at the belay at the end of pitch 2 of free version (ledge off to the R with DBB), then take the fourth pitch all the way to Big Grassy.

5. 35m (M3) More thin gear up the corner above Big Grassy. Take the left corner line after the roof at 25m to hanging DBB for the "Ozymandias Variant M2"/"Ozymandias direct(free version) or the less popular right line which is part of the original Ozymandias Direct line.

6. -Option A 30m (M2) "Ozymandias Variant M2"/"Ozymandias direct(free version)" Up the beautiful corner (finger crack layback goes free at 22), at double carrots head right past two fixed hangers to a hanging triple bolt belay on the arete under the Great Roof. Option B. 25m (M4) Ozymandias Direct - follow corner on RPs, wires, tie offs to hanging triple bolt belay. Unpopular and vegetated.

7. 37m (M4) The Roof. New and old carrots lead to the roof and then up the pretty orange corner, which gets thinner as you go up. Hanging belay. (the Gledhill Bivvy).

8. 30m (M3) The Fang. Head R on decaying carrots then up steep crack past the Fang and beyond. Lots of steep awkward caving up to a final hand and fist crack. Take the big gear (up to #5) and watch out for the sharp edge at the start.

9. 40m (10 M2) Continue up crack to an ugly carrot and a slab move leading right to the base of an easy chimney (optional DBB) make sure to move the haul line left of the trees before entering the chimney. Then head up to big terrace with plaque. DBB is way around left.

10. 15m (M3) Steep offwidth (BD C4 #4 and #5s) with an initial seam on the left wall and a few dodgy carrots higher up. Finish on lookout.

HB

The long corner of the first pitch is lovely.

1. 36m (10) Up line to ledge taking care with some loose blocks just before the belay.

2. 12m (8) Avoid the bottomless chimney (grade 12) by climbing the face out right up to the terrace.

3. 32m (10) The best line is to continue up the left-facing corner directly above. Alternatively, traverse 3 metres right to a shallow corner. Up this, loose blocks to ledge, traverse 5 metres right to another corner and up to top.