루트들 Trojan Wall에서

The miniscule, clean crack facing 'Trojan Wall', on the knoll 20 metres before the descent gully. Similar to 'California Dreaming'.

An unnecessary addition (but who are we (John Churchill and Mike Peck) to talk?). The rather obvious line brushed into submission on the boulder in the descent gully to 'Trojan Wall'. Two bolts, bolt belay.

Start right of 'Aswan' below a prominent curving overlap crack.

1. 8 metres - Climb the crack to a ledge.

2. 16 metres - Continue up the crack.

The obvious chimney above the descent track, about 50 metres from the bottom (start marked).

1. 20 metres - Climb the chimney until able to move into a crack on the left. Up to a grassy ledge.

2. 15 metres - Back to the chimney to finish.

Scramble up to a wide, mossy chimney above and right from 'Snow Queen'.

1. 20 metres - Up the sloping chimney into a cave.

2. 20 metres - From within the extensive cave system, scramble out through a roof hole using a vertical flake, or more easily to the right.

3. 20 metres - Cross the small courtyard and finish up a corner chimney.

The wall with one high bolt, hidden on the eastern side of the boulder which forms the right wall of the final 'Hector's Staircase' chimney.

The obvious off-width splitting the wall just left of the start of 'Hector's Staircase'.

The chimney five metres right of the main wall. Up over chockstones, eventually traversing out under boulders to a good ledge.

Bolted by Mike Peck back in the day, rebolted and sent in 22. Climbs the pillar 2m right of Soolaiman, starting from the ledge at 8m past 6 or so bolts.

The Trad start would be a worthy extension in a different style.

The hardest route around for a while and the most impressive line on the ridge. Freed by Henry Barber on his whirlwind Australian visit. The right-hand of the three lines on the main wall, finishing through the large overhang.

1. 30 metres - climb the corner and crack to a semi-hanging belay beneath the roof (worth doing in its own right as a grade 20; there are usually fixed nuts to abseil from).

2. 20 metres - Crux. Out through the roof and up to a tree belay.

3. 20 metres - Finish up a chimney on the left.

Good climbing on the wall left of Soolaimon. From the big boulder leaning against the central off-width, climb up and right under three bolts then up the scoop past another bolt. Single bolt belay under the roof, or traverse right to the double bolt belay on Soolaimon.

The central off-width.

1. 35m (23).

2. 15m (15) (loose block at top of pitch 2).

Hideous, don't say you weren't warned. Start in the cave, graunching up the chock filled chimney to a leftwards weakness. Follow this to under an overlap and step left around an arete to a ledge.

The left-hand of the main lines (the central off-width remains unclimbed). Start in a cave at the foot of a chimney.

1. 25 metres - Climb the chimney, with an awkward start, to a large ledge.

2. 25 metres - On up the chimney.

Start at the fallen block eight metres left and downhill from 'Rats, Bats and Witches' Hats'. Climb the thin arete past three bolts to the top. Belay under the block

The crack system around the corner 25 metres down from 'Beauborg', with a tricky start. Belay under the roof and scramble off left.

Excellent climbing up the steep black wall and scoop right of 'Worm's Tunnel', scary with three poorly positioned bolts. Take some pieces for a belay; to get off follow the corridor back to exit via 'Worm's Tunnel'.

Another 'must' for troglodytes, but also quite a fun route. Start (marked) some 10 metres up the very deep chimney at the right end of the 'Back Wall', where it turns sharply right. Climb the two cracks in the corner and onto the large chockstone. Straight up, passing the chockstones on their left, to exit through the hidden 'Worm's Tunnel'.

Doppler shifts when you come screaming off. Start at the thin crack in the wall five metres right of 'The Morrigan'. Climb the crack and chimney until able to pull up left onto a good ledge. Follow the steep slab past three bolts (crux after the second) to a good ledge under the overhang. Scrabble through the cave to finish.

Start at the crack five metres left of the chimney leading to 'Worm's Tunnel'.

1. 35 metres - Up the crack to a hanging belay where it becomes blind.

2. 15 metres - Continue up until it peters out, then right to below the overhang and into a chimney.

3. 15 metres - Climb the chimney and through the overhang.

"Recommended for those who enjoy a good thrutch". Need we say more? Start left of 'The Morrigan'.

1. 10 metres - Up the crack, past the tree on its left.

2. 25 metres - Climb the tapering chimney to a ledge.

Start in a corner 70 metres left of 'Worm's Tunnel'.

1. 10 metres - A hard first move, then scramble up the chimney to beneath the chockstone.

2. 20 metres - Up the chimney to belay in the corner.

3. 20 metres - Follow the crack traversing left across the slab.

4. 15 metres - Climb up the textured slab and into the cave above. The easiest exit is left, towards the valley

Start from the first belay on Labyrinth.

1. 14 metres - walk in at the base of the chimney on the e right, and up this past several chockstones

2. 6 metres - Up the short chimney to finish.

Wanders into the cliff. Start 20 meters left of Labyrinth in a small recess.

1. 25 metres - Climb a slanting crack for five metres, then move right (past a shrub) along a ledge to a corner (on Labyrinth).

2. 8 metres - Climb the corner to the shrub, then up any of the cracks to the ledge above.

3. 30 metres (unroped) - First scramble through to a flat floored chimney, then head left through the squeeze for about 30m past several corners.

4. a) 15 meters - When you see a chockstone at 4 meters, chimney up and over it, then up the lake/slab directly in front of you.

   b) 12 metres - Continue out the final squeeze and double back at a slightly higher level and head up the flake/slab above the chimney

Disjointed. Start as for 'Split the Difference'.

1. 10 metres - Up the slanting crack to a good stance.

2. 8 metres - Up the crack and rightwards up to a ledge near third stance on Labyrinth

3. 7 metres - Reach up and traverse the leftwards slanting flake to the rock pile labyrinth emerges from

4. 10 metres - walk a few meters and climb the easy chimney between a few of those boulders. Walk back 10 meters to a cleft on the right.

5. 10 meters - Ascend the pinnacle using the crack on the right to a slab.

Adds a great left leaning hand crack, and a bombay chimney to the best pitches of Dipthong. (or it could be the original if you take the route description with a lot of salt) Start 3 meters left of Dipthong at a slanted crack or chimeny

1. 10m, climb the dirty crack on the right or the chimney to a stance on a dirt ledge

2. 15m, climb the left leaning hand crack out to the arete before pulling back right and into the Bombay chimney to emerge on the ledge below Diphong's third pitch.

3. Finish up the fun pitches of Diphong

Great varied pitch, gr17 once the comedy boulder start is done. Take medium and large wires and double cams from fingers to wide hands, and a couple of slings. This route sucks to second because the rope drops in the crack at the start. Either rap clean or clip an etrier to the first cam for your partner.

Cleaning up the remnants. Actually it offers some good, varied climbing. start just left and up from 'Paper Tiger' at a thin crack. Climb the crack and slab on its left, traverse right and layback up the steepening crack. Hand traverse left to belay atop the 'Nursery Chimney' pinnacle.

Start as for Emu Parade on edge of large undercut overlap. A tricky start gains the slab. Head up the easy unprotected slab for 10m and arrange protection in the roof flake with a long runner. Head up a few metres and follow the right edge of the unprotected arête to the horizontal break at 30m. A 0.5 and 1 cam do the trick here. Traverse right a few metres and use 3 cam for pro around the corner. Jam your way up the undercut slab.

The chimney in the right-hand wall of the recess left of 'Paper Tiger'.

At the left-hand end of the line of slabby boulders below the 'Back Wall'. The bent, easy angled chimney.

The chimney at the back of the cave above 'Nursery Chimney'. Climb straight up, with a rather extreme bridging start, to finish through the slot.

The gulley just right of the Erstwhile Emus cave provides the easiest scramble up to 'Sentinel Rocks' from here.

A model route? About 15 metres right of Erstwhile Emus, a groove runs up a boulder. Layback up the groove and climb the slab above past two bolts.