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Start on the Southeast side of the mountain at a large orange flake.

Pitch 1 Starts at 3m flake crack which leads up to a groove. Up groove to belay on grass ledge. Short pitch with good view of following party at the belay ledge.

Pitch 2 Along grass ledge to prominent chimney on right, climb chimney to chock stone at crest. Chimney can easily be soloed. A fun variation exists on the face of the tower which allows for some fun and exposed moves. Be aware of loose choss. Especially since there will most likely be local children watching from below.

Pitch 3 Up awkward corner above to platform below summit block. Or easier rising traverse to left then up. Climb left-hand arête to summit. Or as 'North Face Route' Descend the same way you come up, or use the bolted anchor to abseil to a ledge with a large tree and cactus. A 70 meter rope will allow for a single abseil to the bottom, or a 60 meter rope will require re-rigging at the tree. Use good rope practices while rappelling and avoid getting your rope lodge in any slots during retrieval.

1. 21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.

2. 17 Follow the crack straight to the top.

Climb the obvious crack about 2m to the left of Craic, trending left at the top to the top-anchors of Spin-Aréte.

The climb starts on the opposite side of the buttress from Waterspout. Walk around the buttress, in the direction of the river, and the climb is in the back of an open book. Climb the obvious crack in the bushy corner, ending in a notch on top of the buttress. Waterspout's top anchors can be used for a belay, but are not well placed to be used for top-roping.

Start to the right of Craic, climbing the easy bulgy face into a short open book. Exit left onto a ramp and scramble up to the tree above Incy Wincy Spider.

Goes up prominent corner recess to left of a cave 30m east of 'Cave Crag'. Follows recess to two-thirds of height, crosses to face on right then straight upward.

Follows the ridge on the left-hand side of the 'Frame Route', i.e. up the left edge below the overhang from which the FRAME derives its name. The climb has four pitches all of which are grade 8 except for the beginning of the third which is grade 9.

May commence at the same point as 'Prometheus' but a point 10m up a slope to the left marks the usual start.

1. 15m 9 Up in the recess on left of sloping face.

2. 12m 10 Traverse right to a point directly above the start of 'Prometheus'.

3. 25m 10 Up 9m and traverse left to edge of crack then vertically up to large tree which is point of junction with 'Prometheus'.

4. 22m 9 Work over to left below overhang then up to easier rock to summit.

Starts a few meters to left of 'Other Kingdom' on the ridge instead of recess and overlaps part of the first pitch of that climb. The route goes straight up from that point passing to the left of the large clump of aloes referred to in the second pitch of 'Other Kingdom'. The first two pitches are of 10 standard and face climbing is the main feature.

The climb takes a route up a giant V-shaped recess 18m left of 'Tower Of Pisa' .

1. 40m 9 Climb straight up recess.

2. 25m 10 Move left and up a step as for the chimney. Traverse left to another step. Continue traversing left to an edge. Continue moving left across small open books to easy ground. Advisable to belay here.

3. ?m 8 Continue to climb up diagonally left on grade 8 rock to top.

Variation:

2 25m 13 Continue up the chimney above unstable rock to a ledge. Traverse, left for 5m and continue up the ledge on loose rock. (This pitch is not recommended.)

Starts at the foot of the ridge at the lowest point to the east of the western descent gully.

1. 30m 10 Start from the obvious tree and climb up slightly left of the ridge. At 25m move left and mantle shelf onto a sloping ledge. Continue up the wall to belay.

2. 25m 9 Step right and climb directly to the top over a series of large steps.

Note: The party was feeling its age.

Starts at top of grass slope about 45m to left of broken, overhanging and cave-ridden blackish rock.

1. 30m 8 From start bear left over rock to prominent grass ledge.

2. 30m 3 Traverse along grass ledge to right 30m to base of ridge forming western bounds of a recess below brownish broken overhangs.

3. 25m 10 Bear over to face on right then work back to left across recess to ridge above starting point.

4. 25m 9 Traverse right across recess and below brown overhangs to crack on right of overhangs.

5. 25m 9 Vertically up 9m then traverse left to top of overhangs.

Note: Route involves a considerable amount of traversing.

A clearly defined cleft or crack extending the whole height of the krantz and about 45m to left of start of 'Rheebok Crag'. There is a clump of three trees - the only ones in the vicinity - at the top of the slope to the right of the cleft.

1. 18m 8 Up ridge to left of recess leading to grass ledge.

2. 25m 10 Original route proceeds straight up cleft on right but a more interesting variation is to start on face to left of cleft. The first 5m involves a difficult section thence easing off on a route which bears to right and joins the cleft.

3. 18m 9 Climb on left ridge of cleft up to a tree where cleft widens out into a crack forming a sort of cave.

4. 18m 8 Chimney work up interior to cleft.

The first pitch is the same as that for 'Aloe Cleft', but when the grass ledge is reached, traverse left to a rock buttress about 6m high.

1. 18m 8 As for 'Aloe Cleft'.

2. 25m 10 Up on right of buttress then bear right through a broken overhanging section to easier rock above.

3. 22m 9 Bear left to an adequate stance on grassy ledge directly above buttress.

4. 25m 8 An obvious route direct to top.

Variation: An alternative route from the top buttress may be taken for the second pitch. This goes up a face to left of the route described, is grade 9 and joins up at the grass ledge.

The start of this climb may be recognised by a huge wedge-shaped rook near the top of the krantz which appears to be stuck in a recess formed by a face on its right and an overhanging buttress on its left. This feature is 100 - 150m left of 'Aloe Cleft'.

1. 18m 7 Scramble up easy grey face to grass ledge.

2. 28m 10 Ascend grey face to right of buttress immediately below wedge-shaped rook at top of climb. This route goes up just to right of a recess formed between buttress and face.

3. 25m 10 Traverse right 12m then up inclining to right making for stance be low crack.

4. 12m 9 Up in recess or crack to a stance below overhanging block on right of wedge-shaped rock previously referred to and on the same level as its base.

5. 12m 9 To right around block into recess then straight up.

Variations: These variations are of like standard to the second and final pitches. Instead of the last 2 pitches, climb prominent white ridge to the right.

This climb is usually commenced from the top of the grass slope a few meters right of 'Eureka Gully' , and ascends the first band of rock in 2 or 3 pitches of 9 standard to the broad grass ledge. Start from the grass ledge below a long grey face to the left of EUREKA FACE. The climb proceeds straight up the face in a series of pitches of grade 9.

The gully to the left of Eureka Buttress. This is blocked by a series of huge overhanging chockstones, the surmounting of which involves a short pitch of grade 10 climbing on the right.

15m upstream from 'Wassail'.

1. 20m 9 Start in a deep recess and climb bearing left to a small corner. Climb up, bear slightly right and then back left to a good stance.

2. 25m 8 Continue straight up keeping right in a wide recess to the top.

Start 50m upstream from STAMVRUG GULLY and right of 'Pad Pad', 20m above the stream level.

1. 45m 10 Climb the sloping grey pillar that has a vertical wall on its left-hand side. The climb steepens towards the top.

Start just upstream of 'Easy Does It', at a narrow point in the kloof bed beside a large tree.

1. 45m 10 Climb 20m up a clean grey face, following a vertical crack line to an overhang. Climb the break to the left of the overhang onto a small nose (good holds). Continue straight up to the top.

Note: A clean, pleasant climb.

Note: Protection is sparse on pitch 1.

The route is on the first buttress upstream of the grassy broken grey slabs, on the right side of the kloof. The route follows the first obvious corner on the left-hand side of the buttress (downstream side).

1. [9] 45m Climb in the corner or just to the right of it. The pitch may be conveniently split.

The climb starts at a large tree at a large rock platform at the foot of the buttress immediately upstream of the scramble descent route. It is a very direct route, straight up the face, 16m to the left of the corner, starting at a cairn.

1. 18m 8 Climb directly in line with the small tree on a small ledge, do a layback and mantelshelf move, and belay on a tree in a recess on a large, wide ledge.

2. 14m 10 Climb 3m up to a large ledge, and then 7m up a wide chimney, the top of which is very smooth and strenuous.

3. 21m 8 Traverse 10m to a corner on the right, initially off-balance, then climb up a steep corner on good holds.

Note: A very pleasant and direct route on good rock.

15m up from 'KB Two' on the same side of the kloof at a corner (cairn).

1. [10] 30m Climb the well defined chimney to a good ledge. Scramble up to the top.

10m up from 'KB One' on the same side (cairn).

1. 45m 10 Climb the wall right of the short chock stoned chimney to a good ledge. Climb straight up to a small recess. Move out right and up a short wall to the top.

This climb can be split into two pitches if required.

Some 20m upstream from the meet point is a small undercut buttress abutting the main kloof wall. This buttress and the wall above provide 30m of nondescript grade 10 climbing. The small buttress may be surmounted via a grade 6 pitch behind a tree to the left of a recess or via harder pitches on the left and right sides of the buttress.

1. [10] XXm Above the small buttress there is a stepped recess which is climbed with the aid of a 2m pinnacle in its second, or to the right lies a pleasant grade 6 face with a series of sloping ledges. Both pitches end on a wide sloping ledge. The way off lies up a short grey recess with two tricky grade 10 moves left onto a miniature grey slab.

The climb takes the obvious red chimney just downstream of and opposite to Rheebok Gully

1. 12m 10 Climb generally up the right side of the chimney to the small stance and tree.

2. 40m 10 Climb the crack in the right corner of the chimney and continue up the chimney to the top.

Note: Variations are possible on both pitches.

Start in the easy corner 5m downstream of 'Devil Dodger'.

1. 35m 8 Climb the obvious corner and continue up to a tree belay at the point where the face steepens and the corner becomes more defined once again.

2. 15m 8 Climb the corner to a large ledge.

3. 15m 9 Climb the steep chimney above on good grips.

This climb follows a prominent ridge about 35m west of a pinnacle or buttress of rock leaning against the krantz leaving a gap about 5m in height between the buttress and the krantz. The ridge can also be identified by a large overhanging red block about 25m up on the left of the ridge.

1. [6] 6m

   Scramble up to a tree on left of ridge.

2. 12m 8 Climb up and to the right in a crack running up the centre of the ridge to a small stance above the hole through the ridge.

3. 22m 8 Traverse right to an exposed position on the arête. Ascend into the large recess on the right of the ridge.

4. 18m 10 Climb the crack behind a large tree for 9m and traverse back to the ridge at the obvious point. Alternatively ascend recess for 9m and traverse right onto ridge and ascend ridge.

5. 15m 8 Climb straight up the ridge.

6. 12m 6 Continue up the ridge to top.

Notes:

1. This climb can take a large party as stances, except at top of pitch 2, are large with good belays.

2. On 31 Oct 1937 R. Barry and party ascended the buttress immediately to the right of 'Fanny's Ridge'. The climb was recorded as generally of D standard, but "unsatisfactory and not recommended". The route was named Fanny's Buttress.

Starts on the buttress about 15m to left of 'Emerald Slab'. (45m east of 'Male Firenze')

1. [8] XXm

   Climb to a stance below a sloping recess.

2. ?m 9 Follow through this recess.

3. ?m 9 Starts to right of overhanging blocks, bearing slightly right then up on edge of ridge on left of 'Emerald Slab' through blocks to the top.

The climb is just right of the recess in Remhoogte Gully mentioned under 'Gully Crack'. Either start the climb just right of this recess or start from the recess and traverse right to the route.

1. 15m 10 Ascend wall to large stance.

2. 15m 10 Head for obvious stance on skyline.

3. 22m 8 Ascend wall to summit.

This route lies on the face immediately to the right of the 'set back' face referred to under 'Dassie Route'. Start about 12m to the right of a cave which is at the base of the right-hand containing ridge of the 'Dassie Route' set back face.

1. ?m 9 Ascend about 6m in recess (9), traverse right behind a poised block 2m high, ascend rather dirty crack for 6m to wide ledge. Walk to left along ledge and ascend to top of subsidiary buttress on the right hand containing ridge of the set back face.

2. ?m 8 From here take the most direct and pleasant route to top.

Note: If more difficulty is desired, climb the following variation: From the cave traverse right to a smooth walled recess closed in by blocks higher up. Ascend recess passing over blocks (13) and continue up crack to top of the subsidiary buttress. This variation is more direct but rather out of keeping with the rest of the climb.

At the base of the buttress immediately on the left of 'Dassie Route' is a brown face with broken blocks below it. On the left of this buttress is a recess with a grey, grass-strewn face extending to the left from it. The climb follows this recess from the bottom of the slope. Climb partly in the recess and partly on the face.

1. 30m 9 Climb recess.

2. 30m 9 The more difficult section of this pitch is at the start and a belay can be made at 18m if required.

3. 15m 8 To summit.

This climb follows the right-hand edge of the prominent ridge immediately west of 'Juniper Face', i.e. the next ridge west from that to the left of 'Dassie Route'. The climb follows the recess to the right of the ridge to a point about 45m up where a 'porthole' through the ridge allows a traverse to the left (through the porthole) across the adjacent face to the next ridge left. The final pitch goes up the recess from this point.

Start on the ridge to the left of 'Carabiner Crag' and at the lowest point of the buttress to the left of the dark face and prominent cracks which face onto 'Carabiner Crag'.

1. 35m 8 Climb the red face for 3m before moving left around the small ridge, then up for 20m until broken rock and grassy ledges form the last 12m of the pitch. Belay on the large grassy platform at an open book.

2. 35m 9 Climb the 3m high open book then climb right and up for 15m to a small low overhang. A grassy ledge above the overhang is reached by going round to the left then up onto a small grey wall. The next 10m is on an open face with horizontal ripples which give way to larger holds and a more broken face up to the stance on large blocks on the right hand edge of the ridge.

3. 35m 8 Start on the right side of the ridge on broken slabs for 4m, then cross to the left onto the grey face and stay on the right-hand side of this face for 20m until it gives way to broken rock for 10m to the top.

The climb starts about 16m upstream from the start of 'Grandstand' at a small gnarled tree 2m downstream from the boulder at the corner of the gully leading out of Trident kloof to the west.

1. [9] 18m

   Climb almost vertically for 9m to a large sloping ledge from which the route angles slightly to the right while climbing a further 5m. Scramble up the last 4m to the base of 'Grandstand' pinnacle.

2. 14m 7 Climb the face just to the left of the pinnacle, surmount overhang 3m up (some moves encroach on 'PINNACLE CHIMNEY) and continue to top of pinnacle. Alternatively the east face of the pinnacle can be climbed which maintains a grade 9 difficulty to the top.

3. 20m 8 Belay leader from the pinnacle top from where the pitch starts as a horizontal traverse to the left for 6m, at the same level as the belayer, turn the corner above an overhang, angle upwards to the left for 9m to a big chockstone which is the last obstacle before reaching the top, which is only 3m to the left of the top of 'Grandstand'.

At the left hand side of the smooth rock wall on which 'Lifebuoy', 'Shady Overhang' and 'Bat's Overhang' are situated. The route follows an obvious line immediately to the left of the smooth rock wall.

An easier start is up the deeper recess about 5m left of the smooth face.

A more difficult first pitch 13 is up the shallow recess about 1,5m left of the smooth face. From the belay practice ledge (large block here) continue on up right-angled recess.

Approximately 50m downstream from the start of the main rock face on the right hand side of the kloof the rock wall makes a double right angle bend first into the kloof then back to its normal line parallel with the kloof. At the internal angle of this bend is a deep and prominent chimney with various chockstones caught in it. The route follows the chimney to the top. Climb out on right at top.

Note: There is loose rock in the chimney requiring care.

Start 20m upstream from 'Skeleton' cave and scramble up 10m to large cave. Walk left and upwards to tree belay.

1. 40m 10 From tree traverse left (very exposed) to overlook 'Skeleton' cave, then ascend steeply, exiting to the right just past a tree. Continue easily to the top.

Start as for 'Solo' in a crack to the left of an upstream facing slab.

1. 15m 9 Climb up and left over dark coloured bulging rock, then up to tree.

2. 20m 9 Move right into corner then do a step over onto the front of the prominent arete.

3. 20m 9 Climb steep face moving left past tree to top, or go directly up corner (10).

The climb starts in well defined small corner about 20m below 'Solo' and either a grade 7 or 8 start may be made.

1. [9] 17m

   Climb a shallow recess with a narrow opening at the top. 7m of grade 8 onto a square ledge. Or alternatively, climb easy rock about 5m to the left of this, moving up and to the right to reach the same square ledge (7). Climb straight up following the crack for 10m to tree stance.

2. 10m 10 Climb the steep crack directly above the tree on good grips. Continue straight up to the large ledge.

3. 17m 8 Climb the main face behind big tree (at this point climb crosses 'Solo'). Belay at ledge with tree growing out horizontally.

4. 12m 7 Climb up and to the right to final V-shaped recess at top.

About halfway between 'Dancing on the Ceiling' and 'Library Freak' is a pronounced roof and curving crack above a smooth slab. The route takes a line up the centre of the clean buttress just downstream of this roof/slab combination ( cairn ).

1. [10] 30m Take an arbitrary line up to the top. Probably the most interesting part is pulling through on huge jugs to exit before taking a stance.

Note: Despite the easy grade a worthwhile pleasant clean climb for a beginner. Descend as for 'Midnight Sprawl'.

Starts to the left of 'Beginners' Traverse'.

1. [7] 10m

   After a tricky take-off, ascend an easy face for 6m bearing slightly left. Traverse 3m left and then up 1,5m to a ledge. Tree belay.

2. 9m 10 Ascend the steep face for about 2m, move around the corner and diagonally left up a sloping face into a crack. Tree belay.

3. 9m 8 Ascend the crack for 5m and continue up an easy face to the top .

This is a 15m high pinnacle on the right hand side, reached by following the stream past Castle and Knight gullies and wading through pools for about 100m. The pinnacle may be climbed by a difficult route on the stream side (15) or by a route (10) on the upstream side starting where the pinnacle joins the wall on the kloof.

Start 10m right of 'Mountain Brew'.

1. 18m 9 Climb the crack-cum-chimney to a ledge on the right at 16m. Either wriggle through thin black chimney or fight the aloes to a stance and tree belay.

2. 25m 8 Continue up the fault until the angle eases. Bear left to the foot of a lichen-covered grey slab which leans back at 15o off vertical.

3. 10m 8 Climb the slab or scramble off in the gully to the right.

Please do not climb this route between April and October (inclusive) due to nesting of black eagles.

Start about 15m to left of 'Trapeze Crag (Minor)' on the right edge of a column or buttress inclining upwards to the left.

1. 18m 10 Follow the right hand edge of buttress to ledge at top.

2. 20m 9 Traverse left 4m then diagonally up to left for 6m to a point vertically above a deeply cut recess on left going down to base of krantz. Thence upwards to right to a stance below a broken face.

3. 20m 9 Vertically up over broken face to bushy stance below grey face.

4. 20m 10 Either continue straight up in crack through centre of grey face above or incline right to bypass face and ascend in recess on right of face.

About 20m left of 'Dome Face'. Starts in recess to the left of an overhanging block.

1. 25m 10 Climb straight up to stance above blocks.

2. 20m 10 Upwards to right across left face of a column to join top of third pitch of 'Dome Face'.

3. 20m 9 Climb up in corner to left of grey face. i.e. Face of 'Dome Face'.

20m to left of 'Dome Corner'. Starts on a vertical rectangular buttress clearly defined by two vertical cracks going up about 12m and about 9m apart. A secondary buttress slightly lower and about 4m wide projects out from the main one.

1. 12m 10 Climb up centre of secondary buttress or pinnacle, to right of overhanging block (or to left of block) to a ledge on top of buttress.

2. 15m 10 Traverse left 3m and ascend to left of recess with block wedged in.

3. 15m 9 Follow line of ridge slightly to left and ascend over broken blocks to large ledge.

4. 12m 5 Traverse 12m right along base of face.

5. 17m 9 Up recess on left of overhanging column for 6m then traverse right to ridge of column and ascend to final stance on slopes.

This climb is situated near the east end of the face which runs eastward from Fountain Gully. It commences at the only big tree in this vicinity, left of a big block.

1. [8] 6m

   From tree up onto block, then bearing slightly right to ledge.

2. 18m 9 Traverse left to base of recess with crack. Climb up 11m into chimney (the “Straight Jacket”) and up to big cubby hole.

3. 12m 8 Climb out left and then to top.

The climb commences at the base of a large grey block jutting from the krantz about 150m left of the foot of Saddle Gully, and generally follows the line of a broken ridge.

1. [9] 12m

   Climb on the outside of the block to stance on top of it.

2. 12m 9 Climb recess behind stance and traverse right below an overhang at the top of the recess on to a bushy stance below an aloe filled recess.

3. 22m 8 Up recess through a group of aloes bearing left on to crest of ridge, reaching a large stance by an awkward pull-up.

4. 9m 8 Climb steep recess behind stance.

The route starts in a clump of trees, just opposite the first big tree.

1. [8] 18m

   Straight up for 15m, then traverse right to recess with two small chockstones in crack.

2. 15m 8 Up a few meters, climb right around a corner, then up over block to recess. Up recess to big stance in cave-like chimney.

3. 15m 10 Ascend a few meters in cave and then left out onto exposed face. Move up diagonally left to comfortable stance below recessed chimney which provides a break through the overhangs.

4. 18m 9 Up recess for 6m and then, to avoid bush above, step across to the left onto face. Up face to top.

1. [8] 22m

   Scramble at first up lower part of recess then climb recess and face on left.

2. 25m 8 Up broken rib to overhangs.

3. 6m 8 Traverse right into a recess with tree below overhang.

4. 25m 10 Ascend recess for 5m to the overhang, then traverse left onto a face and into a slot (the Post Box). Climb through the slit and continue up the face above the slit.

Several variations are possible, e.g.

1. [8] 22m

   Instead of first pitch start to the left of the trees. Climb a crack for 11m until it becomes a chimney. Pass behind chockstone to stance.

2. 30m 8 Instead of second and third pitches described above, go first slightly left up recess and then up and slightly right into recess which ends at the tree below the overhang.

3. original

4. 10 From the tree below the overhang, continue the easy traverse to the right for about 6m. Ascend a break through the overhang, starting with an awkward pull-up to the right. Rather nondescript climbing above this point leads to the top.

The climb lies between 'The Wilderness' and 'Serendipity'.

1. 18m 8 Ascend on rather loose rock up a vague recess until one can traverse right into crack.

2. 18m 10 Climb out to right - a short easy section. Then climb a small steep red face (alternative is to enter gully on right from a lower level 8). Traverse right into the crack or gully referred under alternative. Medium-sized tree belay.

3. 15m 9 Climb steep wall on right of gully, then up easy broken rock. Finish on 3m lichen covered face.

The climb is situated 30m left of the tallest tree in the second clump of bushes to the west of Fountain Gully. The start is marked by a narrow cave at the base of a ridge with a significant bulge about 15m up. The ridge is actually a pinnacle leaning again the face.

1. [9] 22m

   Ascend the left side of the ridge 12m and the remaining 9m on the ridge itself to a good stance on the right side where there is a large hole through the ridge.

2. 18m 10 Traverse back onto ridge and continue straight up to a small overhang.

3. 25m 10 Climb overhang, moving slightly to the left and continue over easy rock to the top.

Notes:

1. The overhang can be avoided by moving to left or right of direct route. The left route was graded 8.

2. ‘Serendipity’ means finding something different from that being looked for.

Start 2m right of the 90o red corner described in 'Red Rooster'.

1. [10] 20m

   Climb up slightly diagonally right for 20m to a ledge.

2. [10] 15m

   Move slightly left and continue up grey rock to the top.

Starts 25 to 30m up Short Gully from 'Left Corner'.

1. [9] 23m

   Ease into narrowing vertical chimney on good handholds through overhanging tight section, then 4,5m higher and out of chimney to right and up to good belay on bush.

2. 18m 8 On vertical rock 6m to horizontal crack then traverse left to top stance of 'Left Corner'.

The start of the climb is about 10m downstream from 'Dark Gully' (being the first recess past 'Dark Gully' ) with a large tree growing from its centre about 12m above the ledge.

1. [8] 28m

   Up recess past tree to wide ledge.

2. [10] 34m

   Up 6m then left 9m. Then move diagonally right and up to gain prominent open book. Ascend open book to level 4.5m below overhangs. Traverse left out to corner where two square ledges with bollards form stance.

3. [8] 22m

   Up via right hand face to broad ledge. Cross ledge and move diagonally left up face (6m) to ledge with trees. Cross and ascend behind trees to stance at top.

When the face is surveyed from just downstream of 'Gunfire' , three parallel reddish ridges or buttresses are seen. 'Gunfire' follows the left-hand buttress. 'Contention Buttress' follows the centre buttress with an alternative variation up the right hand buttress.

1. [10] XXm The lower sections of 'Contention Buttress' are rather nondescript permitting of much variation. At the level of the start of the (centre) buttress, one can easily traverse to the above mentioned variation on the right hand buttress. This consists of a steep slanting crack initially, followed by a diagonal traverse right above an overhang to the easy final crest of the buttress.

The route follows an obvious gently leaning open book, opposite a deep cleft mentioned under 'Gunfire' Start as for BROADSIDE by scrambling up to a platform above the cave.

1. [10] 45m Follow open book to top moving left beneath the overhang. It is generally best to use the large holds on the left wall to begin.

This climb is to the right (downstream) of the deep cleft referred to under 'Hotplate' .

1. [10] 12m

   Up very steep face, moving to the right of a corner and small platform.

2. [8] 18m

   Ascend the corner, bearing right.

3. [7] 15m

   Up the face which is above pitch 1.

1. [7] XXm

   The route begins where the black trunk of a liana, as thick as a man's wrist, dips its roots in the water of the kloof. It runs parallel to the root for about 6m to a ledge which takes the climber left for approx. 7m.

2. [6] 12m

   From there, there is approx 12m of rock of easy standard which is followed till one is faced by a chimney.

3. [10] XXm

   The chimney, of approx. 4m, is too narrow for normal movement and it is blocked by a chock which gives good hand-support when reached.

4. [6] 15m

   From the top of the chimney there is a further 12 to 15m of grade 6 rock.

5. [5] 15m

   Finally, the route moves to the right and reaches the top of 12 to 15m of easy grade 5 warm-red rock.

20m upstream from the MCSA post, the buttress on the true right is split by a low-angle recess filled with tree routes.

1. [9] XXm Ascend this recess to 4m, and traverse left on a ledge. From the end of the ledge, step left and up onto another ledge and follow the recess to the top, stepping right at the end.

The climb starts 4m downstream of 'Church Window' , at the foot of the rock ridge mentioned under that climb.

1. [10] 15m

   Ascend until an overhang forces one to traverse left around the ridge into a corner where there is a small stance.

2. [7] 15m

   Ascend corner 2m. Traverse left 3m, then ascend about 12m and traverse back into corner for stance and belay.

3. [7] 15m

   The route continues up the right hand side and on the outside of a vertical crack. It ends at a wide ledge, where the climb may be ended.

4. [7] 18m

   About 12m left of end of last pitch, there is a red face at right-angles to the kloof. Ascend middle of this face.

About 40m downstream of 'Church Window' a number of boulders block the stream over which you have to scramble. The climb is just downstream of these boulders on the true right. The climb starts in a 4m high dihedral.

1. [6] 24m

   From the base of the climb you can see a short (2m) chimney about 20m above you. Just above the chimney is a tree, this is the first belay. Climb up the dihedral, go up and right until you are at the same height as the chimney but 3m right of it. Traverse over sloping holds on ramp to the tree.

2. [10] 15m

   Behind the tree is a large chimney/crack with some chockstones at the top. Climb this. Above the crack step left and climb the next crack, also with chockstones above. Belay on short stamvrug tree at the base of a large cave/chimney. Don't go left around the first crack; the climbing looks easy and the protection is good but you will end up just a little above the small tree for the belay and the rock is a bit too chossy at this point for a good anchor.

3. [7] 25m

   Walk into cave/chimney around the corner where it makes a left turn. Walk out onto outcrop and take in the exposure (you can belay here if the rope drag is too much). Then go back and continue up chimney and then left to a large ledge with a tree belay.

On right of ledge is a boulder, climb over this and scramble down gully to a large tree and abseil down. (46m to bottom)

Alternative to pitch 1 (12): Climb the chimney instead of going around it. Optional pitch 4 (9m, 7): To top out: On the right of the ledge on top of pitch 3 is a boulder. From this boulder up about 1m then traverse left until you can easily scramble to the top. From here walk right to a point above the big abseil tree mentioned above in this description and make a short abseil to it and then a long abseil to the bottom..

Commences on the right hand edge of 'Cedarberg Recess' cave. At this point an obvious ledge starting 4m above stream level extends upwards to the right.

1. [10] 15m

   Ascending to ledge provides the only difficulty. Then move along the ledge passing a number of insecure looking blocks. Stance is at base of overhanging crack, which takes off from the ledge.

2. [10] 18m

   Follow the ledge to extreme end where it leads into a chimney. Ascend chimney for about 5m then diagonally up left to wide ledge.

3. [7] 15m

   Continue up bearing somewhat left, to a wide ledge beneath a red buttress. To the right is a recess which can be climbed as a variation to the final pitch.

4. [8] 9m

   Ascend the clean, red buttress.

About 50m down-stream from the sandy “lunch-spot” 100m down from the easy descent gully near the campsite, there is a buttress on the true left, visible from the main path – this is climbed by FRAGILE FORTRESS. A further 50m-70m down-stream there is a second clearly visible buttress. FUNKY CHEMICAL CORNER takes the up-stream face of the buttress at its nearest point to the river.

1. 20m 10 Start from the lowest boulders to gain the ledges below a short face with a prominent crack. Proceed upwards and gradually left, with the angle and grade gradually dropping, until the highest boulders are reached.

Note: Descend by walking upstream at the same level as the belay to reach an easy scramble down a gully 30m upstream of the start. Gear is plentiful and the rock sound.

Variation: BABY STEPS - Start as for THE KNELL, ascend 2m to the ledge then traverse right for 3m. Ascend the obvious line to the top. (21 Jul 2007 Claire Othenin-Girard, Malcolm Dunkeld, Warren Krynie and Rob Thomas)

The chimney on the upstream side of the LEAP OF FAITH buttress.

1. 25m 9 Start awkwardly over the first boulder, or burrow under the tree, before employing classic chimney techniques to ascend. Good fun.

This route takes a direct line up the buttress directly opposite the Golden Pitcher and immediately upstream of GOLDEN PITCHER CRAG. Scramble up a short corner then traverse right on grass and belay at the first tree. This is down and left of a deep cave.

1. 8m 10 Move left and up a short groove to a tree belay in a cave.

2. 15m 10 Move left and ascend the rib to a short crack above the cave. Climb this on good holds and up a recess to a stance on the left and belay on rock knobs.

3. 8m 7 Ascend the rock knobs directly to a large ledge and tree belay.

4. 22m 7 Move right and follow the ramp to its top to a block belay.

5. 12m 8 Traverse 3m left and ascend the face on good holds to the top. Belay on block at the back.

Starts 9 - 12m downstream of GOLDEN PITCHER FRONTAL. Scramble 18m to foot of a 5m broad grey face immediately to right of large deep cave. Start from tree at bottom right hand corner of face.

1. 15m 10 Climb up face for 9m, then move diagonally left to stance in large recess.

2. 18m 6 Climb up recess to stance at tree.

3. 22m 8 Climb up a few metres then traverse left across steep exposed face to opposite side, then move to top. (A lower traverse of grade 13 can be made.)

Start at the corner 10m downstream of the cave opposite KNEES and CHURCH WINDOW. The climb is the prominent pinnacle visible from the stream.

1. 20m 8 Up vertical face with good holds to small ledge. Keep slightly to right.

2. 13m 7 Straight up to wide ledge and tree belay.

3. 13m 6 Traverse to right to base of corner below pinnacle.

4. 13m 7 Climb corner to base of pinnacle.

5. 13m 10 Climb the crack on the north-west side of the pinnacle.

Variations:

4a. 14m 13 Climb the face to the left of the corner.

5a. 15m 8 Traverse around the base and climb the crack on the east side to the top.

The climb is directly opposite LABYRINTH.

1. 9m 6 Scramble up to big ledge on roots.

2. 30m 10 Traverse left 9m to break in overhang. Go straight up to ledge.

3. 30m 10 Start on red nose to left of ledge. Go straight up to pinnacle visible against skyline. Climb stays roughly on corner of pinnacle.

4. 12m 8 Scramble up about 5m. Carry on up crack between pinnacle leaning against main face and face itself.

Variations:

1. 12m 7 Scramble up gully then left around corner to tree on large platform below crack in recess.

2. 22m 13 Ascend awkward corner on left and then climb directly up to awkward crack topped by small overhang. This is negotiated by turning it to the left.

3. 15m 7 An easy face is ascended to the bottom of main face and crack. (1969 A. Burger, R. Slatem and H. Liebsch)

Start 30m downstream from STRAIGHT JERRY from square block 1,5m high against wall.

1. 18m 10 Scramble 9m to overhang. Move around right hand end of overhang to large bushy tree on large ledge.

2. 11m 10 Move diagonally up right to base of chimney between the large red and block buttress and the grey face.

3. 30m 8 Ascend face to left of chimney and move left to tree, then ascend face on right until overhang is reached. Traverse right round corner and ascend 6m face to stance.

Situated in Boulder Kloof, about 150m upstream from the Lower Tonquani junction, there is a large open book which continues to the top of the cliff. The right hand side of the open book offers an unattractive overgrown grey face but the left hand side offers a clean red face diagonally cut from left to right by a slanting chimney-like crack.

1. 25m 10 Up this crack via short chimney to tree belay.

2. 25m 10 From tree traverse left for 6m on to exposed face. Up face 9m bearing left, then on easier rock to top.

Opposite BARDOT and diagonally upstream from the long roots descending into the kloof is an easy-looking fault running to the top of the krantz. Start on a shelf in grey rock (beacon).

1. 25m 8 Climb diagonally right at first to a tree and then up, passing a cave-like recess and on to a still bigger cave/recess.

2. 25m 10 Climb the chimney above. The top half requires bridging as the holds are rounded.

Note: Short persons may find the grade harder.

Climbs the open book 5m to the left of SCROOGE.

1. 20m 9 Climb the easy groove past a tree to a small ledge. Move right and climb to the top of the crag.

Start 10m to the right of LITTLE MOLAR in extreme right of the small gully (160 paces downstream from meet point).

1. 30m 9 Climb over two brown blocks to gain access to the greyish slabs which are climbed to the foot of the crack. Climb the crack which widens into a chimney. Emerge on the right atop a pile of brown blocks.

Note: Descent gully behind pillar on left or abseil off large tree.

On the right-hand side of the lower kloof, 180 paces downstream from the usual meet point is a 40m pile of smooth brown pillar-like rocks. The climb starts 15m from the stream bed in a crack behind a tree in front of the left-hand pillar.

1. 30m 9 Climb the crack to a ledge with a large block on the right. Move up to the overhang and move left into the chimney (crux). Climb over two chockstones in the chimney then climb to the top of the right hand pillar or surmount the pillar from behind (7).

Descent as for OPUS ONE.

Located 10m downstream of PINNACLE FACE, about halfway between it and the pinnacle with the natural ridge. It starts a few metres downstream of a small gully.

1. 20m 10 Climb the grey face to the grass ledge and scramble to the foot of the pinnacle.

2. 20m 10 Climb the steep front of the pinnacle on good holds, veering left to turn the overhang at the top which is a large block.

From the cave where the stretcher is kept, proceed 30m upstream to two pools divided by a medium sized boulder. Start on the left hand wall (looking downstream) just upstream of the last pool, at a tree.

1. 45m 10 Ascend directly up the face above the tree line to an open book. Climb the crack in the open book and ascend until a slab split by a crack running up and to the left is reached. Climb the crack and ascend to the top.

Commence 30m downstream from SLOB-A-GOB on a face with prominent, slightly sloping handrail/slot in the middle.

1. 20m 10 Climb the 15m face to a grassy slope. Follow the 5m ridge on the right to a platform.

2. 15m 8 Enter a brown crack with a small tree in it. Climb 9m to an overhang and then move left to a large shady tree.

3. 12m 10 Climb the face onto a hollow sounding flake. Climb the flake, then up and left around a bulge. Follow the ridge to the top.

A short on angle slab to the left of the descent gully. The start is guarded by thick shrubbery.

1. 15m 9 Climb up the centre of the slab to the top ledge.

Note: Bad gear.

20m upstream of ICH and NI is a deep high cave starting on a large ledge about 10m up.

1. 15m 7 Climb the corner on the downstream side of the ledge (7m) and scramble to a belay position at the entrance to the cave.

2. 20m 10 Ascend (straddle/chimney) the right-hand crack to an obvious traverse line at the same height as the top of the cave entrance. Fight past the bush and then on easier rock up to the top.

Starts left of TON UP PLUS in a recess with many roots at its foot. [Just above the 2nd weir.]

1. 30m 9 Climb past the roots to a shelf. Climb either of two possibilities to a tree-filled recess. Finish up any of three scrambles to the top.

Note: Starts well but fades at the top.

Climb the downstream side of the buttress on which IMMACULATE MISCONCEPTION is situated. Start to the right of an easy-looking gully to the right of CALCULUS. [23 pipelengths up from the 1st weir]

1. 38m 9 Climb for 10m on crystallized rock until obliged to step across to the right to a small tree on a commodious ledge. Continue on the setback faces, to the top.

Note: Dodges around a lot. Watch for rope drag.

Below the second weir and 50m downstream of IMMACULATE MISCONCEPTION is a buttress of piled blocks, grey and lichen covered in its upper three-quarters. Scramble through heavy undergrowth to start. (Pipe no. 18 above the 1st weir]

1. 32m 10 Climb the frontal recess to a tree, then up slightly left. Towards the top, move into an upstream chimney.

Note: Steep but lots of grips. There is a steep scrambling descent gully downstream of the climb, but watch out for loose boulders.

Starts to the right of BLOCKBUSTER.

1. 30m 9 Fight off the heavy bush at the foot of a grey corner and climb the grey corner and chimney to a ledge at 15m. Move around the bulge to the right and into another chimney. Climb past the chockstone to the top.

Starts just to the left of BLOCKBUSTER.

1. 33m 10 Climb the slightly downstream-facing recess to a platform at the rear of the foremost pinnacle. Continue up the next pinnacle to the stance above BLOCKBUSTER.

Note: Clean climb. Steep at the top.

Opposite the waterfall gully and 12m upstream of the first weir is a long arête that forms a curved knife-edge at the top, finishing on prominent grey blocks. Start in the grey band of rock below a large tree 15m up.

1. 38m 9 Climb to the large tree, then slightly right up easy rock to a short recess with a prominent chockstone at its head. Surmount the chockstone to a small belay ledge. (The only hard moves are at the start and finish of the pitch.)

2. 25m 7 Stay on the knife-edge to the final blocks.

Note: Good tripper's route.

Start just to the left of SUPERTRAMP on a laid-back slab bounded on the right by stepped overhangs.

1. 10m 7 Climb the grey face to a "pulpit" stance.

2. 33m 9 Continue up the slab to the top. Note: Might be possible on one rope length.

At the third pipe length after the pipe's descent ramp is an average slim body-width crack 15m up. Start at water level.

1. 25m 10 Climb above the roots, pass the tree and enter the crack (face upstream for minimum thrutch) and emerge below a broad recess with grass and trees.

2. 35m 9 Go as you please up the pleasant faces and ledges for 35m to the summit.

Note: Good fun climb (for those thin enough).

The climb takes the prominent chimney situated just upstream of the descent gully with the water pipe. Follow this pipe up the ramp until next to a large cave. [Upstream of Pipe Ramp]

1. 20m 9 Climb up to the right of the cave onto a ledge. Ascend crack to next ledge and walk into back of chimney. Up chimney to the roof and move out onto the top of a huge detached block.

2. 18m 9 Move right into groove and climb this past a rusty peg to the summit.

Variation:

2 18m 13 Move up and left onto steep exposed slab and continue up to a large flat block. Step right and finish up the arête. (21 Jul 1985 L. Gardiner and T.P. Willmot)

Just upstream of the second weir and left of the buttress with the large leaning capped flake (COMFORTABLY NUMB), is a set-back arête.

1. 30m 9 Climb the obvious fault line to the top, moving left near the top if you wish to avoid a hard move at the summit.

Note: Clean and direct climb.

Starts downstream of OBSCENE GESTURE in a brown recess with a small pinnacle at its right-hand edge. (Alongside pipe No 16 above 1st weir)

1. 30m 9 Start behind the base of the pinnacle. Climb 12m then finish up an easy recess.

Note: Lousy rock. Disappointing.

Climbs the dry waterfall from the sandy base. Starts on black rock to the left of the corner.

1. 35m 10 Zig-zag up the rounded steps (one or two grade 10 moves near the middle) and on to a large tree directly over the fault.

2. 25m 7 Move right onto a grassy laid-back grey face with lots of jugs to the summit.

Note: Done in a dry year. Could be more tricky in wet season.