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King Rat Area
A bit of a labyrinth, but worth exploring. Good on a hot day. Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
The Shark fin
"It was some 11 years ago that I was out there so my memory isn't all that clear on the actual location... From memory it was a small fin of rock somewhere between King Rat Cliffs and Bushrangers Bluff...", James Kassay Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
The Shark fin |
16
★★ tool bender
first accent |
18
★ dont chuck your shoes till it is over
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity. State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive). |
5
milking the dorsal fin
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity. State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive). |
23
★ spiderman savior
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity. State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive). |
The Pimple
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
The Pimple |
15
Master Chalk
Rotten crack. Start: Start off the ledge on the E side of the pinnacle. |
19
I've Been a Bunny
Lean R and clip the BR on the unknown bolted line. Then go straight up. Start: Start R of MC at jugs. |
Unknown bolted line
Bolted pre-86, and even then the 2nd bolt was poxy and the 3rd bolt hadn't been put in. Unsurprisingly this seems to have been completely ignored ever since. |
21
★ Squeeze Me Gently
The arete, veering L. Start: Start where the E face meets the N face. |
21
Gadoong, Gadoong
Try and find this one, I dare you. Start: South of the 'Pimple', across the vegetated gully is a short grotesquely overhung wall and right of this a small wall behind a large boulder. On this wall is a big detached flake, forming a ledge. Start at the lowest point of the ledge. |
White Mice Walls
The cliff high up between Colosseum Wall and King Rat Gully. Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
White Mice Walls |
21
★ Controlled Burn
Starts on left side of the wall immediately left of 'Bermuda Triangle'. Up to where a series of wedged blocks in a horizontal break leads right. Follow this rightwards until you are nearly at the BT roof then climb strenuously straight up to top using a series of pockets. - Fun! |
20
★ Bermuda Triangle
The corner, then R around the roof. Start: Start beneath the distinctive orange triangular roof towards the L end of the crag. |
18
Thighs and Quivers
The weakness up the thin face. Start: Start 6m R of BT. |
19
Bridge of Thighs
Very contrived as it's much easier to use jugs just L. Start: Start 5m R of T&Q. |
12
Left Hand Variant
Big L-facing corner with an attractive flake-crack in excellent orange rock. At a length of only 24m, the original probably finished at the ledge at the top of the left-facing corner/flake, and walked off left past the base of 'Bermuda Triangle'. However, it seems fairly obvious to do a second pitch up the short corner just left, then step right and up the orange crack above (this is shown in the topo). Start: Start ~50m R of BT. |
11
Right Hand Variant
The corner on the R to ledge, then interesting curving corner. Start: Start as for LHV. |
10
Uncle Bob’s Folly
If you can find this you're doing better than us. May be a repeat of final crack of 'Right Hand Variant' Start: High on the broken cliffs right of Bermuda triangle is a curving offwidth crack which is almost impossible to see from anywhere. Find your way to the base of this. |
14
Dud Day Afternoon
The topo for this route and the next few is pretty much a guess. Left of the start of 'Ddark Ddigit' is a broken orange wall with an arete on the right hand side. Pitch one follows this arete.
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20
Ddark Ddigit
Easy wall, orange rock, then L under overhangs to arete. Up it. Start: Start 30m L of 'Light Fingered' (which is described on a separate page). |
20
A Sore Thumb
Easily to pillar then flake up R. L below bulge and up seam. Start: Start at obvious slender buttress between DD and 'Light Fingered'. |
14
A Sore Finger
Steep direct line with some brittle rock. The vertical seam/crack on the right side of the pinnacle of A Sore Thumb, finishing up steep crack. |
7 R
The Shaker
An obscure choice for this era when almost all the other classics of 'Arapiles' were still unclimbed! For over thirty years guidebooks placed this climb in the wrong gully. The good news is that no-one has missed it. Some awful rock. Start a few metres right of A Sore Finger. There's a wonky letter S painted somewhere.
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Light Fingered Gully
The gully around to the L of King Rat Gully and Bum Rock. Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
Light Fingered Gully |
12
What's My Motivation
Up to cracks and up to the ledge below 'Urban Sprawl'. Start: Start: On the left of the entrance to 'Hunger' 'Gully' is twin cracks through a shallow prow. |
Upper Hunger
Above the initial narrow part of Hunger Gully the gully widens above a large ledge. Urban Sprawl takes the obvious crack line through the roof 2m right of the left arete on the wall that faces camp. Opposite Urban Sprawl is a large wall that forms the continuation of the Hunger Gully wall. This is also know as Buttress Buttress Gully Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
Light Fingered Gully Upper Hunger |
12
Nempnett Thrubwell
Start: Opposite VIMH. |
12
Grope Lane
If you want to know the actual name they gave it - which would make even Nowra climbers blush - you'll have to ask them yourself. Start: 2m right of Nempnett Thrubwell. Up following faint line to top. |
12
Dance of the Flaming Anus
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity. State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive). |
12
Uncle Fistula
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity. State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive). |
18
Angry, gun totin', meat eating people
Bridge up to gain flake and then follow it till angle eases. Up vague arete to top. Start: Start: 3m right of chockstone step in gully, below flake. |
20
The first six inches
Bridge up to gain flake and climb up to roof. Swing through roof. Start: Start: Three metres right again is another flake. |
20
Voices in my head
Anyone who isn't paranoid lacks imagination. A technical onsight lead. Continue down the gully past a short step. Directly under the narrowest part of the gully there is a shallow black corner which leans right and runs up to a series of roofs and overhangs. Directly above the start of this route there is a thin crack through a large overhang. The line shown in the topo is a guess. |
15
Someone shoulda shot Elvis back in '57
See if you can pick the theme running here? Start: 4m Right of VIMH below an obvious corner. Up corner to roof which is swung around to the right. |
15
Twelve Long Haired Friends of Jesus in a Short Tailed Microbus
Start: Continue down the wall from SSSBI57. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is an obvious leftward diagonal. Start below the right end of this diagonal. Up to gain the diagonal which is followed until it seems to make sense to swing back right and up. |
20
Gutless Gutless Bunny
Start: Continue down the wall from SSHSEBI5. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is a line (starting just left of the hole) that goes up past a large pocket. Up line. |
10
Groove Terminator
Up this. Start: On the left wall of Buttress Buttress 'Gully' (Upper Hunger), right of the steep stuff, is a shallow groove. |
Light Fingered Gully |
21
Urban Sprawl
The crack at the L end of the short overhung orange wall. Start: Start at the top of a steep gully L of 'Light Fingered'. |
23
Valley of the Deformed Pork Salesman
Caveat emptor! Start: Start in the cramped gully, up L of 'Hunger'. |
24
★★ Hunger
Bridge, then into seam with 1 bolt and 1 piton. Double rings on ledge. Start: Start on the R wall of the gully L of 'Light Fingered'. |
26
★ Motivated by Food
The seam. Start: Start just R of 'Hunger'. |
28
★ Shagadelic
sling anchor is death |
22
★★ Light Fingered
Struggle up the good line. Start: Start below the obvious grey wall just before the gully narrows below crack that widens. |
23 R
Wub Wub Direct
Scary face with stacked blocks, then wall and arete. Start: Start 2m R of LF. |
8 R
★★ The Match
Head R then up the chossy front-side of the prow. Start: Start at the teetering stack on the R side of the gully, at the initials. |
Bum Rocks
The bulgy buttress 30m L of King Rat Gully. Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
Bum Rocks |
11
Fireman Don't Got Convictions
Traverse both cheeks via the orange weakness at half height. Start: Start up the L side of Bum Rock. |
18
★ Glutimus Maximus
Mantle, bulge, and groove past oval shaped roof. Start: Start 3m L of the bumcrack, er, central chimney. |
16
★ High School Antics
Up L leaning flake, R to orange weakness through bulge, then L to seam. Start: Start 1m R of GM. |
16
Cling On
Start 3 metres right High School Antics on left side of chimney. Stay on left side of chimney avoiding the temptation to bridge at any stage. Climb up to horizontal crack and into corner. Up to overhang and obvious thread through. Blast through juggy overhang and spare a size 3 cam for pocket in upper head wall. |
22
Fingersmith
Slab just L of small overlap then L to arete. Start: Start 3m R of the bumcrack. |
15
Of Moss and Men
Loose flake then lichen. Reachy. Start: Start 1m R of F. |
13
Side Saddle Sally
Start 3 metres left of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding follow first of two shallow right facing corners, step right to block and directly up to top of pedestal. Climb through small juggy rooflet above pedestal. Small good gear. |
12
★ Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding
Up the hanging block just L of the hole, then L leaning groove. Start: Start on the R side of the crag. |
11
★★ Bottoms Up
Straight up the slab and clean wall about 3m right of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding. |
11
★ Wash Your Hands
Start as for Bottoms Up, moving diagonally right and up short grey wall to alcove. Straight up nice wall above, steeply at first. Juggy steep wall to the summit (originally done as a separate, 6m, pitch). |
13
Back Passage
The central groove on the grey cliff directly behind Bum Rock. |
King Rat Gully
A shady area with quality climbing. Good on a hot day. Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
King Rat Gully |
Slander Wall
The small cliff on the L of the gully. Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
King Rat Gully Slander Wall |
19
When Mark Was King
Bouldery start. Start: Start on L side of Slander Wall. |
21
That Man Again
Finish up blunt arete. Start: Start just R of WMWK. |
16
Evelyn's New Clothes
The thin corner. Start: Start just R of arete. |
13
★ Mouse Trap
Climb the corner in centre of Slander Wall with two crack until it is less contrived to stay in the left one to ledge. Then up line just left of the arete above until large ledge at 45. Head right to scramble down near the chasm to base of I'm a Little Dinosaur. |
13
Rat Trap
This is the R corner of the alcove, once it is not madly contrived to stay out of Mouse Trap. Then up line on arete through friable rock. |
19
Chubby Like Chris
The nice thin crack on the arete, but don't reach L to make it easier! Start: Start at the arete R of RT. |
24
Chubby Like Chris Part II
The middle of the buttress, no wimping off the direct line. Start: Start R of CLC. |
18
Speedy Lou
The crack. Start: Start R of CLCP2. |
16
Compost Corner
Up then step L and follow the continuation. Start: Start 2m R of SL. |
9
Gri Grieving
Up a shallow orange corner left of Prairie, continue direct through steepening and onward forth to walk off ledge. May have some suss rock, vegetation and lichen. |
7
Prairie
Probably worthless but no-one has definitely located it. Start about 60 metres up King Rat Gully where the left side becomes a short juggy wall. Prairie starts at the steep line 2 metres right of a corner. Up the crack on good holds until a ledge at 25m. Traverse off left along tis ledge. |
14
Climb is not the correct noun
From the ledge the preceding routes finish at, up the front of the pillar, through overlap and generally terrible rock. |
King Rat Gully |
Left Fork
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
King Rat Gully Left Fork |
21
★★ Feel It Closing In
Good face climbing past BR into crack. Start: Go all the way up 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork, this is the last (leftmost) route on the small wall on your right. |
27
★ Spinning Around the Drain
Old James Falla project with 3 bolts. Don't know if it's been ticked but it's about 27. |
24
★★ A Loaded Gun
Flakes to BR then R and up. Start: Start 10m R of 'Feel It Closing In'. |
26
Lazaretto
A forgotten Gordy concoction. up face past 2 FHs then move right to vague arete past two more FHs. |
22 R
Mongolian Rabbit Shit
Unprotected black streak, then corner. Start: Start ~20m R of ALG. |
25
Lord of the Midgets
L on shallow flakes then up past 2 FHs. If you go straight up before the traverse it's only 20. Start: Start R of MRS. |
18
Deception
Boulder into R-tending flake and up it to jugs. Start: Start 4m L of BL. |
24
Brotherly Love
This pair's additions at 'Werribee Gorge' see a lot more love than these obscure numbers. Start: Start 10m L up the gully from IaLD. |
18
★★ I'm A Little Dinosaur
Lovely positions up the prominent grey arete, starting on the R face at first. Start: Start about 15m up the scramble of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork. The start can also be accessed by climbing 'Scylla' or 'Charybdis' for 15m then walking L along the ledge. |
18
★★ I'm A Little Asteroid
Move R up the slabby corner then launch up the smooth face 5m R of IaLD. 'Small' gear is all that's keeping you off the slab at first. Start: Start as for IaLD. |
21
Terrordactyl
Straight up the face squeezing between Dinosaur and Asteroid. Start: Start as for IaLD. |
14
I'm A Little Teapot
Takes the slabby arete just right of the chimney-gully that Asteroid etc. step out from. Take some tape slings. |
17
Ed's Super Sarnie
Basically a second pitch for 'Scylla'. Possibly poorly protected. Start: Start at the ledge atop 'Scylla'. |
15
★ Scylla
An excellent approach for Dinosaur and Asteroid. The obvious thin finger crack in the dihedral. Eats up small cams Start: Start just R of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork. |
16
★★ Scylla Alt Finish
A little extension to Scylla. Up Scylla until the difficulties ease, then step left to follow the flakes (instead of finishing up Charybdis). More sustained than the original finish. |
15
★ Charybdis
Start: Start a couple of metres R of S.
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15
Hey There Little Insect
As for C for 10m then R and up arete. Start: Start as for C. |
King Rat Gully |
Right Fork
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area |
King Rat Gully Right Fork |
23
Ratatat
Pull through the start of 'Luxury Item' then L along the horizontal line to the arête. Up the arête past a bolt to a ledge and double glue-in lower-off anchor. |
23 R
Luxury Item
Fiddly pro initially. Step R at 15m to find the rap anchor above 'King Rat'. Apparently the "awesome" continuation up the chossy headwall is yet to be done - knock yourself out. Start: Start beneath the grey wall which separates 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork and Right Fork. |
23
★ Inquisitive Creatures
Climb Glory Rodent until through the crux. Traverse L to jug on arete and good medium wire above. Climb arete direct, watch out for rope drag or use doubles. Extra grade just for the extra effort required... it's not really any harder than GR. |
22
★★ Glory Rodent
The awesomely steep line is made easier by a few faceholds. Start: The first steep line you get to on the L wall of KRGRF. |
18
★★ King Rat
Another awesomely steep line. Start: Start 4m R of GR. Clip piton at your own risk. Sharp. |
21
★ Rats in the Ranks
Escapable but fun. Climb 'King Rat' to the thread. Reach up and R to gain big hold on the lip of the overhang. Pull straight through and climb the featured wall above to finish on the ledge. You may want to bring a few small wires for the upper orange headwall. Two U-bolt lower-off. |
23 R
★ Kookenhagen
The rotten flake then the bulge to pull R into the flake, belay on R. Carrot has been replaced by a bolt Start: Start R of KR. |
23
Of Mice And Men
Straightens out and significantly improves Kookenhagen. Easily up the line for a few metres then pull up left around the overlap past a bolt runner and up the line above (Kookenhagen stays lower and keeps traversing left). |