Vias em Pharos Gully

Even shorter corner L of SN, then follow front of buttress to the top. Great route for kids.

Short corner and arete on left side of wall, starting 2 metres left of "Party Tricks". A bit contrived up high.

Face 3 metres left of the seam of "I Can't Breathe" to undercling, then up and right to finish up "I Can't Breathe".

Attractive seam up middle of buttress opposite "Vanoise". There is good gear if you can hang on long enough to place it. Double ropes can be advantageous on this route

Quite a nice, subtle climb. Start up the flake on the left wall of the chimney-gully right of I Can't Breathe for 3 metres then go diagonally left to finish up I Can't Breathe

Flake on the left side of the chimney-gully just right of "I Can't Breathe" continuing straight up where "The Venus Trap" moves off left.

Easy chimney immediately right of "Cranky Babies", finishing up right wall.

The right arete of "Romper Room" is a bit runout.

Deep crack 2 metres right of "Romper Room". Take big gear, knee pads and crack gloves.

Borderline for a star but an interesting jamming experience. The crack right of "Lights In The Sky"

This sits almost directly above "Defector" on Ministry Wall; combining the two could be quite nice. Otherwise, to get to the start, scramble up the descent route on the left side of the Vanoise Wall and go left a little or come down from the top.

Central line up little brown tombstone-shaped buttress above and left of descent route.

Still surprisingly clean. Climb cleanish streak about 15 metres left of the little hanging corner at the left end of the long roof-line on Vanoise Wall.

Onto small ledge and up shallow, right-facing corner to ledge below main overhang. Step left and up.

Start: 25 metres left of "Vanoise".

A harder finish to "Beat Route". Up this to roof and pull over on brittle holds to right.

Up crack for 7 metres, step left and go up to and over high roofline.

Start: Start at crack 20 metres left of "Vanoise".

A good, varied pitch with an exciting steep finish that was originally dirty, poorly protected and with significant loose blocks. Now cleaned up and with a couple of tweaks to avoid runouts and loose blocks as well as a rap anchor. The thin crack section is a little contrived but keeps the line flowing.

Start as for Tamesis, the first crack system left of Vanoise.

Up the crack (originally climbed poorly protected face 2m to right) and at about 7 metres, instead of stepping left into the obvious continuation, follow thin cracks up the face to little step in the roofline. Swing right through this step (originally moved up left into next corner over dangerous blocks). Easily up for next 5 or 6 metres to twin cracks through top bulge. Initially up right-hand edge of right-hand crack then finish steeply between the cracks to anchor. 30m rappel.

Be careful with the rap – new 60m ropes doubled reached the ground with about half a metre to spare whereas an old 60m doubled was about a metre off the ground. Don’t rap or get lowered off the end of the rope.

Start up Greenwich Reach for 3-4m until it is possible to diagonal across right to break in the roof. Through roof, up to next and through it then diagonal left up to anchor on Greenwich Reach. Gear at 2nd roof a little iffy.

A bit mossy these days. 5 metres left of The British Beat and about 4 metres right of Tamesis is a rusty carrot down low. Up past this to roof which is easy and leads to the Labouring The Point anchor.

Lovely, technical thin face. Be careful not to fall off clipping the second bolt.

Start: 4 metres left of the 'Vanoise' corner. Smooth orange wall to rap chain. (Worthless variant start goes up lichenous streak on right to join route below 2nd bolt Jamie Holding, Rosemary Weaver 16-05-1990)

A worthwhile alternative start making Vanoise a more sustained and independent line. Start 3 metres left of the shared crack start with Labouring the Point, below a small V crack. Climb to V crack and follow weaknesses to where Vanoise and Labouring the Point diverge then finish as top of Vanoise.

Really interesting corner on the right side of the smooth orange face. It gets harder as it arches over further to the left to chain under roof. The climb originally continued to top of cliff but it's not worth it so no-one bothers.

The original climb followed the upper roof-line all the way left until it ends at a short corner. An amusing concept that no-one can be bothered repeating. Stick to the first pitch as described.

Follow buttress all the way, taking crux bulge on right via obvious loose flake.

Start: Between 'Vanoise' and 'Agent Orange'.

Straightens out Agent Orange. At the roof corner, step left then up and into AO.

Conjures up an image of Chris Baxter clutching a bush and screaming as he hurtles down "Vanoise".

The little flake just right of the initial corner has also been climbed at 19.

Start: At small, right-facing corner 3 metres right of "Vanoise".

Rap chains.

Takes the unlikely bulging wall between Agent Orange and West Coast Dogma. Start up wall and thin flake 2m right of AO (had been climbed previously) to join AO at its roof. When AO veers back left, continue straight up from obvious horizontal pocket following an independant line all the way. Gear is adequate. (Another option is to start up AO which makes it about grade 18)

Start at chimney-cleft 10 metres right of "Vanoise". Up line. At small overhang step onto right arete and up steep wall. Abseil as for Agent Orange.

Apparently the grade drops to 16 if you start by bridging 3 metres up 'West Coast Dogma' then reach right into hanging crack to join line.

Start between 'West Coast Dogma' and 'Dead Beat Sax' beneath small hanging block. Up to block, right, then into line going left, then straight up shallow crack. Up to bulge which is climbed on right.

Crack 5 metres right of 'West Coast Dogma'.

Boulder up to break and the first runners. Continue straight to top.

Start: Start 2 metres right of 'Dead Beat Sax' at smooth wall.

The "protection" style might appeal to the budding aid climber.

Start 2 metres right of 'Beat More Meat' at very thin, almost closed groove. Up groove with micro-wires and Crack'n'Ups (or hand-placed peckers maybe) for token protection. Finish up wall above.

A gentle ramble with spectacular views all the way. Sort of a companion route to Spiral Staircase. The name also derives from the fact that the first ascent team had a combined age of 269, and featured more than 200 years of climbing experience. Starts between West Coast Dogma and Sombrero, where there is an obvious ledge 2m above the ground.

1. 30m Mantelshelf onto the ledge and continue up and left to a nice flat ledge.

2. 20m Up easily from the left end of the ledge for 3-4m. An unlikely traverse left around bulge at the horizontal break (nice exposure) leads to the base of a gulch. The enigmatic Duck Crag is up on the right.

3. 40m Follow the shoulder all the way to the top.

Not great.

Some distance down right are low-angled mossy faces with ledges in between. Scramble up to deep, right-facing chimney. This is your mission should you choose to accept it.

The first ascent party were not fans. Left-facing flake right of Sombrero.

The wall right of Sombrero has been dubbed Treasure Island - I have my doubts. Climb the slab and steep wall midway between Sombrero and South Pacific. Continue easily, then finish steeply up the centre of the headwall left of South Pacific.

The "obvious" right-facing corner on the wall right of Sombrero, then the left of twin lines up the headwall.

Start up the South Pacific corner, then take the right-hand line past an unusual rock crypt.

Start by the huge native pine. Sail straight up the central seam, finishing centrally over steepening. Continue easily up the shoulder of the outcrop.

Seam 2m right of The Black Pearl (this seam is left of a short little corner), finishing easily as for The Black Pearl.

Best approached by one of the other climbs in the vicinity. Step across the tree-filled gully behind the top of South Pacific etc, follow the weakness in the wall and finish centrally up the juggy tower.

The easiest slab at Arapiles(?). Could be done as an approach pitch to Long John Silver. Climbs central weakness in the slab around right from Blackbeard. Scramble up to start. Gentle slab split by a juggy crack.

Little jam-crack on left.

Bold line 3 metres right of 'Duck Crack'. Alternative finish is to diagonal 2 metres right to flake.

Obvious traverse line.

Supposed to be good.

From loose block on ground, up to horizontal, step right and up shallow. left-facing corner.

Fear of being watched by ducks!

From block swing right to flake, up.

Start at big jug down left of 'Anatadaephobia' (place a couple of wires in this for protection). Up to horizontal break

These two climbs are on the gentle wall opposite Duck Crag, directly below a slackline launch site. Easily approached via the disabled lookout. Home for Tea is an obvious finish to Duck up the Stairs.

Crack on the wall opposite the northern edge of Duck Crag. The crack leads to a gentle slab, trending left to the top.

Take the clean orange slab above the southern edge of Duck Crag, finishing on the left side of the summit block.

The left one.

A few metres left of Lou Will be Pissed are two flake lines. This is the right one. Not the best routes in the world but not really any worse than the other route routes on the wall.

Straight up to and through obvious weakness between Soggy Muffin and Lou will be pissed.

Up breaks then slab left of 'Prendergast' roof.

Start: Start about 6 metres left of the 'Prendergast' flake.

Good. Wall 4 metres left of Prendergast flake and through roof just left of middle.

Layback flake to right end of roof. At roof, traverse left and up.

Start: Start at the layback flake 30 metres left of diagonal.

Start: 10 metres right of 'Prendergast', 20 metres left of diagonal is a bulbous hanging nose. Start under the left corner of this. Up slab, over left of 2 obvious loose flakes. Finish up corner.

Some very good moves on lovely rock.

Start below orange hanging nose.

Up slab, stepping left around overhang into corner on left side of nose. Now back out right onto nose, pull up steeply then easy ground.

Climb flake and wall above.

Start: Start below easy right-facing flake 4 metres right of 'Shadow Foxing'.

Quite sustained and poorly protected. Start 2 metres right of Hugh Goes West. Up to diagonal, then right along horizontal break, up and across to bottomless corner and climb this.

A nice corner-crack behind tree leading directly to the foot of Squirrel & Baker's Delight. If only doing this climb, belay on the first ledge and walk off left.

Lovely looking wall but start (at least) is reachy. Climb the attractive orange wall 4m to the left of Squirrel. Finish up a short handcrack near the top. Rap anchor: 20m to start of climb, 30m to ground.

Logically done as a two-pitch combo with "Marcia's Route". The initial wall is fingery and tiring to protect: small cams and beware of ledge-fall. Prominent black streak into a chimney-gully is harder than it looks. Descend via Bakers Delight rap.

Good, bold line.

Start 3 metres right of 'Squirrel', below and left of diagonal above roof.

Up to roof, traverse right and pull into diagonal.

Quite good but unbalanced with a bouldery start. Stepped corner right of Bakers' Route, moving left under first roof and up wall.

Line 1.5 metres left of 'Hopelessly Obscure'.

Crack through bulge on right side of small face.

A typically bold route by Paul. Not much gear on the crux.

The route Logical Conclusion (1997) written up recently (2009) by Bert Levy is a repeat of this climb.

Start: Start left of 'Fantoochi'.

Steep seam on orange rock. Step L and do the not-quite-direct-but-better-climbing finish. If you want. Don't let us pressure you.

Line 2 metres right of 'Fantoochi'.

Climb wall and step right to tiny, left-facing corner which is followed until you can swing right to arete. Up.

Start: Start 1 metre right of 'Double Decker'.

A neat little climb squeezed between Bed Lag and The Creesed Palm. Originally set as a top rope problem; there is enough gear in the corner to keep things sane.

Start up Bed Lag, then move left into the corner on the arete. Small wires protect the run out to the rooflet, then move left to finish up The Creesed Palm.

Starts up 'Wogs at the Piles', but instead of breaking right continues straight up the face. At times the gear is small and spaced.

Previously described as "Good climbing but has some runout moves above not brilliant protection". Circa 2017 two retrobolt were added: one at the start (shared by Bedlag), and another bolt halfway (this has since been removed).

Start at the arete of 'Bed Lag' and do a rising traverse through bulge across flakes to right arête. Up and finish slightly left.

A contrived direct start to Wogs. Up past a shallow pocket to meet Wogs half way up.

Start as for crack attack then step L around corner to stance (no more bolt?). Up on the L of arete over sus gear to rail, move L and up.

Steep climbing up the corner left of 'Mr Hyde'.

Good, sustained jam crack up left wall of 'Heckle'. Take a few large cams or hexes.

Graded 15 by Mentz & Tempest, Arapiles Selected Climbs Guide Book.

The major corner-chimney bounding the left side of the black slab, mainly climbed on the slab.

Clean black slab right of 'Heckle'.

Well-protected technical climbing low-down leads to a runout finish. Crucial protection in the top half of the climb is provided by an insecure sling; double ropes help.

Distinct black streak midway between Rush Of 'Blood' and 'Jeckle'.

The very technical, bouldery start was always a bit of a shock to people expecting a grade 14! The rest of the route is substantially easier.

Up flake, at top step right on orange wall and go up slightly right to easier finish.

Start: Start at right-facing flake right of 'Jeckle' and before the streak of Clap For Kiwis.

Brushed streak right of 'Jeckle' and left of the diagonal of 'Sheckle'. Now has a bolt on the crux, originally done without. Impressive by Lou.

Begin up the diagonal, step left at horizontal break and continue up face.

Start: Start at the right-leading diagonal on right side of face.

Start at the orange corner and inch your way up and right. It appears that some people who have done this route thought they were on Sheckle (grade 13)?

Not great gear or climbing.

The right-leading diagonal flake on the right end of the black slab.

Arete left of Flights Of Fancy doing first 2 metres left of arete.

Steep and gymnastic good rock good gear.

Start: Start as for "Flights of Fancy", clip the first bolt stepping off a big boulder to gain the horizontal break leading left with vague pockets, monkey up to second bolt and good jug, straight up to more gear before moving back right to join FOF then head back left and then up to the top, traversing right along a ledge to gain anchors

The logical bits of Flights of Fancy and Jumping for Jugs if you can't do the dyno of FOF. Up JFJ until you can move back right, and finish up FOF. Fun steep climbing with a thin runout finish (but if you have a decent wing span it feels very contrived to avoid the holds out left)

Start: Start at crack directly below the lone bolt in the middle of the south face (facing 'Heckle' and Jeckle) and head straight up past big dyno.

The original route by Steve Monks traversed right at first break, up arete then back left somewhere at 25.

Pull into undercut line and up two left-facing corners, then step right and up.

Start: Start around right of Flights Of Fantasy below arete.

On the west face is a blank piece of rock capped by a roof. Start 1m L of No Turning Back, passing some horizontal breaks to reach the roof. Crank through the roof to finish up the vertical seam. Gear is not great.

Distinguished line in middle of west wall.

Nice rock, nice moves, brilliant nut pro. With that many superlatives it's gotta be worth a star, right?

Start: Start right of 'No Turning Back'.

Twin cracks 2 metres right of Barefoot In The Park.

Varied and interesting. Start 4m R of Huey. The start has some long reaches protected by adequate gear in horizontals, then up the bottomless V-corner.

Not a popular pasttime. Climbing looks good but it's squeezed in. Probably bold like most of Roland's routes.

Bottomless right-facing corner then bulge between Vapour Trail and Huey.

This beautiful thin crack is so good it just about rates three stars. Maybe if it was five metres longer?

Pull into the flake just left of the cherry ballart then continue up the face-crack.