Vias em The Pharos para uma graduação selecionada

Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start beneath the hanging nose of Ciela.

1. 18m (21) Slither up the surprisingly tricky slab to the R side of the nose. Undercling out around the roof and keep gunning up the crack above into the chimney. Belay here or 4m L at the DRB.

2. 33m (17) From the DRB, go straight up the front of the nose, eventually escaping L around the top bulge.

Quite good. Originally done in two pitches but belay stances are poor so better done as one. Start 6 metres left of Oceanoid, 2 metres right of Transatlantic Crossing, at short right-slanting orange corner.

You have to squeeze them in. Pretty contrived and has some loose blocks. Start at small rib just right of Voyage Of The Damned.

1. 30m (20) Climb the rib to the diagonal bulge of Voyage Of The Damned. Go straight through bulge and step right to tiny stance. Climb thin flake up slab and move left to belay as for Rainbow Warrior.

2. 15m (20) The overhanging rib on the right as for Rainbow Warrior.

Traversing similar territory as the excellent Trinity Wall, this route is not as sustained as its neighbour below, but provides similar bowel churning exposure. Start as for Left Side Of The Ocean, and follow this to join Oceanoid P2. A few metres before the chimney of Oceanoid, find the line that traverses right on poor feet. The pitch passes the Aftermath double bolt belay, soon reaching easier territory.

A cliff-splitting weakness that is big on atmosphere but not necessarily enjoyment. The R rating is from the rock, not the gear. It has been known to calve huge blocks with the climber attached so be cautious. A 5 camalot will be appreciated. Start below the huge cleft.

1. 42m (16) Up vegetated line and belay on the big terrace.

2. 24m (18) Up the overhanging chimney with some doubtful rock.

3. 24m (18) On up the line to below large cracked roof.

4. 15m (20) No, don't walk off left, climb the roof crack. The original finish traversed out the left wall below the roof to the arete.

Don't listen to the haters. The last pitch has great gear and is 20. Bring a 6.

1. (20) Starts under the roof between Prevarication and Hurricane Lamp Cracks and powers straight through it. Move on upward (be aware of loose blocks) to a bolt anchor (45m rappel).

2. (18) Onward through some steep moves and then at the slopey ledge, move slightly right then up the horizontals to a bolt. After moving past the crux trend left towards a bolt anchor (30m rappel to next anchor) under the roof, opposite the tennis court.

3. (14) Move far right under the roof to the big offwidth crack, struggle your way through and then climb the headwall on the left side, moving left after a ledge, then back right to another bolt anchor (25m rappel to anchor under the roof).

An old-fashioned line that rewards good technique and punishes thrashing.

Start below the major V-groove splitting the back of the Pharos. Described in 3 pitches but best done in 2 pitches now that there are bolted anchors at 20m and at the top.

1. 12m (20) Hard start on polished slopers (it's advisable to place a wire (#9-10) with a long stick for protection; double check it as the slot is not foolproof) leads into the V-chimney. Bridge up to a small ledge on the right.

2. 22m (18) Step left and up to cave.

3. 18m (13) As for last pitch of Lamplighter.

A good stylish pitch. The initial moves are committing and require lots of small wires. And some of the first holds are loose so check what you're pulling on. Combining this with the upper pitches of "Trojan" makes for a very good grade 21 climb. Start at the top of the huge flake.

Start as for Dazed And Confused then move right and directly up wall past some very loose flakes, finishing up the fine corner-ramp to ledge.